Both of us write about travel for a living, so as we planned our first retreat we considered spots around the globe for its location. We’re also two Northern California ladies living in San Francisco, though — and we realized that the beauty within a few hours drive from SF warranted staying closer to home.

Hopping in the car from SF, Carmel is just a two-hour drive from the city — and when you get there, you get a whole new vibe.

Dark green cypress trees frame deep blues and turquoises of the clear sea. Waves crash powerfully along the rugged California coastline. Colorful tiles line stairwells end at art galleries, garden passageways, and wine tasting rooms. Homes and shops feel a bit like they’ve been plucked out of a European fairytale.

Although I tend not to overuse the word ‘charming’ to describe a place, it’s the exact word that best suits Carmel-by-the-Sea.

I grew up visiting the coast from Monterey to Carmel often as a child. Still, we would need to thoroughly research the area and intimately get to know Carmel to host a group there in the way we wanted.

So now, I present…my heavily researched and double-triple-checked guide to Carmel, California — an easy day or (ideally) weekend trip from San Francisco. It’s one of my top picks for a getaway from the city.

Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Carmel

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Getting from SF to Monterey/Carmel

Without traffic, it takes just over two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey and Carmel. For every recent trip, however, we left San Francisco just before 6 am to beat all the traffic. Because you drive through the city and down past San Jose, there can be several slowdowns. I’d recommend driving in off-peak hours if you can — even if you’re just driving from the SFO airport.

If you have the time, Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove or Pebble Beach (near Monterey) are a few other stops to consider. Going from San Francisco to Carmel via Highway 1 is another slightly slower, but more scenic option that winds around the coastline.

And then when you arrive? Here’s what you need to know:

Things to Do in Carmel

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Stroll the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea

Walking along Ocean Avenue will take you past most of the town’s highlights. Be sure to duck into alleyways and passages that often lead to patios and gardens. (The Thomas Kinkade Gallery side door leads to one of the best!) Check out the Tuck Box and Cottage of Sweets to see some of the most fairytale-esque spots.

Walk the trails of Point Lobos State Park

I especially love the walk to China Cove, where you will see not only beautiful landscapes but also dozens of cute, chubby seals chilling on the beach below. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife — it’s not uncommon to see sea otters, seals, native birds, even whales (December to May.)

Spend a leisurely morning or an afternoon at Carmel Beach

Carmel Beach at the edge of town (and no more than a few blocks from everything) is one of the most beautiful beaches in California to me. Its soft, white sands and deep blue waters, often accompanied by impressive waves, make this a favorite spot for many. Walk or bike on the bluffs above, check out the oceanfront cottages as you go, and sit and relax on the sand if the weather allows.

Visit the Carmel Mission

The California Missions are some of the most beautiful and important parts of our state’s history. (Ask anyone who grew up here which one they did a report on in grade school!) Mission Carmel is one of the most beautiful, and most traditionally restored, of the 21 missions across the state.

Take the scenic drive down Highway 1, or the 17 Mile Drive

As adorable as the town of Carmel is, there is nothing better to me than a relaxed drive down the coastline just outside of it. Drive for just thirty minutes south and you can see some of the incredible scenery of California’s central coast. The 17 Mile Drive, while stunning, requires you to pay to enter ($9.50.) It’s worth doing at least once, but to me, there’s nothing more freeing or appealing than just taking off down the winding coastline.

Carmel Food

Where to Eat in Carmel

These are my favorite places to grab a bite in Carmel-by-the-Sea (after several visits.)

• Cultura Carmel: dinner + cocktails
• La Bicyclette: lunch or dinner
• Brophy’s Tavern: lunch or dinner + drinks
• Chez Noir: dinner
• The Stationaery: coffee, brunch, or lunch

Read more about the Best Restaurants in Carmel << in this post!

Vineyard Visit

Best Wineries in Carmel Valley

Folktale Winery

When we began scouting spaces in June last year, we knew we wanted to find and highlight some of the great (and low-key!) wine they’re making in Carmel Valley.

As soon as we stepped into the magical place that is Folktale Winery, we stopped the search. Their property is stunning, especially if you love modern design meets French chateau meets greenhouse space!

To us, the atmosphere is so special (and reflects Carmel so much,) and the food and wine was great (try their sparkling rosé!) that short of spending the whole weekend in Carmel Valley, this one winery will more than suit your needs. There are tons of tasting rooms in town, but Folktale Winery is a short 10-15 minutes away by car and worth visiting.

Bernadus and Georgis Winery were the other two that came highly recommended if you want to add to your wine tour of Carmel Valley during your stay.

Best Places to Stay in Carmel

Hotel Carmel

What I love most about Hotel Carmel isn’t just its size (a handful of rooms,) its location (right where you can walk to everything without being in a busy section of town,) or its beautiful design, but just how much staying there feels like home to me. Everything from a lobby that feels like a living room to a self-serve breakfast of bagels with fresh homemade strawberry cream cheese to the local wines served fireside makes me feel both comfortable and like I’m giving myself a little splurge. It remains my top hotel choice for Carmel.

La Playa Carmel

La Playa is the largest, more beachfront sister property of Hotel Carmel. It’s got a little bit more of a classic Carmel resort (rather than fresh and trendy) vibe, yet it’s similarly comfortable with large fireplaces, a friendly staff, and a great patio. Check out La Playa to see if it’s more your style…also highly recommended!

Hofsas House

If you’re looking for a friendly and budget-friendly place to stay right in the heart of town, you can do no better than the pink-colored Hofsas House.

The family-owned property has a historic past but retains its hospitality and warmth today. Actual warmth — via the dry sauna and heated pool on site or the in-room fireplace if you’re lucky — is a huge bonus on a chilly coastal day. You’ll be welcomed with friendly service, free breakfast (with fresh local pastries!), free parking, large room size, and many more amenities that make this a personalized and all-around lovely base in Carmel. Ask about ocean view room availability.

Neighboring Getaways

There’s so much around Carmel-by-the-Sea that’s worth seeing. Here are a few spots you can add to your Carmel vacation if you’re continuing down the coast.

Monterey

Enjoy the Monterey Bay Aquarium (my forever favorite,) Cannery Row, scuba diving, whale watching, and more.

It takes about two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey, whereas Monterey to Carmel takes only 10-12 minutes. Even if my visit is just to Carmel, I make a point to stop at Captain + Stoker, an excellent coffee shop in Monterey. I also loved Alvarado Street Brewery.

Big Sur

The two stars of the Big Sur coastline (which is a star in itself the whole way down) are McWay Falls and Bixby Bridge — the likes of which you’ve no doubt seen all over Instagram. I’m a fan of driving to Bixby Bridge for sunset at the very least, and love stopping to take in the coastline in Garrapata State Park‘s beaches and rocky, seascape nooks.

If you have the time, a camping trip in Big Sur amongst the trees and fresh coastal air is also very worth it!

Other Good Things To Note!

• You can fly directly into Monterey Regional Airport (MRY) from many West Coast airports. It’s worth connecting there rather than driving from SFO if you can manage it. It’s about ten minutes in an Uber to Carmel from there.
• Carmel is one of the most dog-friendly cities I’ve been to! If you’re lucky enough to have a four-legged friend in tow, you’ll be surprised to learn that the majority of Carmel hotels and restaurant patios are welcoming to dogs.
• There’s a beautiful, beautiful beach just past Carmel Beach (if you continue down the road, past where the parking ends.) It’s shaped like a crescent, is hardly ever crowded, and on a sunny day rivals any other beach I’ve seen in this world for natural beauty.

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I’ve spent many weekends, birthdays, and other celebrations exploring Napa food and neighboring wine country across Healdsburg, Sonoma, and Napa Valley. I have my go-tos in the Sonoma square and my favorite spots in the town of Healdsburg, yet somehow I had hardly spent any time exploring downtown Napa.

With the help of one of my oldest friends (who is now a winemaker and local there) I created a list of the best restaurants in Napa’s downtown area to scout out. I wanted to include not only wine tasting rooms and fancier restaurants but also craft breweries, markets, and local’s favorite places to eat.

I set out on a mission to see what flavors await those who may want to experience wine country but not jump into the crowds and craziness that can be the Napa Valley (word has gotten out!)

Downtown Napa Restaurants & Wine Tasting

Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa

After a short drive from the city, I decided to park myself in downtown and use it as a base to explore. Staying for a few nights in downtown Napa allowed us to walk everywhere (and not need to worry about designated drivers.) It’s a relaxing way to roam from one eatery to another, stopping for a stroll by the river or to browse some art in between. It became my new favorite wine country discovery, and equipped with this list and/or your own thirst for culinary experiences there…I am certain it will be yours, too.

Here is the list, which evolved a bit as I did my own hopping around:

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Note: I walked in without a reservation during my stay, but you may want to reach out ahead of time if you have a specific timing need or will be with a group larger than two.

Downtown Napa Wine Tasting Rooms

Acumen

A truly beautiful interior, lovely staff, an adjoining art gallery, and some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc I’ve had? What more could you ask for? If you go tasting at just one spot in downtown Napa, make sure you stop in here.

Compline

Named one of America’s top wine restaurants, Compline is top spot to sip wine They also offer wine education classes from their sommelier that I’m dying to get to.

Trahan-Prime Cellars Tasting Room

If you’re looking for a relaxed and comfortable wine tasting experience that feels a little like being in someone’s home (as opposed to a stuffy tasting room,) look no further than this friendly spot in downtown Napa. Two wineries have joined forces here, so you can taste a variety with the help of the knowledgeable staff. Also: priced extremely reasonably.

Brown Downtown

A beautifully designed and newly opened space, Brown Estate (located in nearby St. Helena) makes excellent wines, particularly their Zinfandel. The tasting room is chic, and the tasting price is steep ($40-50) but there is no doubt it’s one of the best places to drink wine in downtown Napa.

Best of Downtown Napa Beer

St. Clair Brown

This place was our favorite discovery of the trip and what will singlehandedly keep us coming back to downtown Napa. Veteran winemakers and brewers came together to create a boutique urban space, complete with a culinary garden, that is both comfortable and chic. During our visit, the warm and welcoming staff not only served us some of the best wine and beer of the weekend but came around with bites straight from the garden for us to taste. Safe to say (because well, we joined the beer club…) that this is one place we’ll be back to again and again. Highly recommended!

Trade Brewery

It was a delight to discover relative newcomer Trade Brewery, which is already winning awards for its craft beers that they continue to refine. Their taproom is friendly, and highlights of my flight and tasting included their 220 V Juicy IPA and Hatchet IPA, but all their beers are tasty. It’s nice to see a beer scene developing alongside the wine industry in Napa. Definitely worth a visit!

Tannery Bend

A short walk from the central area downtown, Tannery Bend is another great addition to the growing craft beer scene in Napa. They make both classic ales and pilsners and experiment with seasonal and unique brews. Their saison in particular gets rave reviews.

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Breakfast

C Casa

Two words: breakfast tacos! You can see them making the tortillas by hand, and while there’s no shortage of excellent Mexican food in California, they’re really doing it right here. Located inside Oxbow Market.

Alexis Baking Company

items like a leek and goat cheese omelet or creme brûlée French toast alongside freshly baked goods make this the go-to spot for locals who want a hearty breakfast.

Model Bakery

just around the corner from Oxbow, it’s an outpost of the famous Napa Valley bakery. They make artisan breads and are perhaps most well known for their English muffins (which Oprah apparently flies in for, NBD!)

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Lunch

Angele

Give me a riverside French countryside restaurant and I’ll give you my new favorite place to eat. From foie gras torchon to steak tartare, they’ve got a range of classic French dishes. They serve dinner here as well but I love sitting outside during the day.

Oxbow Public Market

A variety of options await at Napa’s fantastic gourmet market. Favorite options include Kitchen Door, Hog Island Oyster Bar, and Gott’s Roadside (both of the latter have other locations.) It’s also a great place to browse for culinary goods ranging from spices to olive oil to specialty bitters.

Bounty Hunter BBQ (and wine bar)

A massive wine list, rare Scotch, and a barbecue menu that includes St. Louis ribs, smoked beef brisket, and beer can chicken makes any list of mine. It’s a casual place that takes the pretense out of Napa without losing any of the intensely good flavors.

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Dinner

Torc

Ah, this might take the cake as my favorite meal we ate in downtown Napa. The open kitchen and dining room are bustling with activity, but the dishes are expertly presented and as good as anything I’ve eaten this year. No matter what you order it’s bound to be good — whether a hamachi crudo or roasted pork belly. Their ‘Taste of Torc’ set menu is a great way to go if you want to sample the restaurant’s highlights.

Zuzu

A most excellent array of tapas await at this cozy Spanish restaurant that favors local and organic foods from Northern California.

Other Recommended Food:

• Morimoto
• La Taberna
• Gran Electrica
• Napa Valley Coffee Roasting

Recommended Downtown Napa Hotels

These are my top picks for where to stay in downtown Napa:

If you’re looking for a grand hotel: Archer Hotel (don’t miss the rooftop bar!)

If a B&B in a Victorian house is more up your alley: Hennessey House B&B

If you’re wanting space and great value: Embassy Suites Napa (their complimentary breakfast is excellent!)

If you make it there soon, let me know how your trip went and what your favorites were!

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P.S. More wine?

A Guide to Bordeaux Wine Tasting

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P.P.S. Visiting San Francisco?

Where to Eat in San Francisco Series

The post Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Even now that I live a bit farther away, I find myself drawn back to SD — first and foremost to visit one of my best friends who lives there (shoutout to her for inspiring this list!) but also to complete an annual taste test of the best tacos in San Diego — you know, for research purposes.

If you’ve got a weekend in San Diego, let this list of the best fish tacos (which I’ve expanded really to be taco joints of any kind where seafood features prominently) be your guide.

And yes — Mexican food here is a big deal, and yes, it is that much better than it is in other U.S. cities. (Remember, you can see the border from some of the places on this list!)

The Best San Diego Fish Tacos

A Self-Guided Taco Tour

Plan your stomach capacity ahead.

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Prepare yourself for a full experience (pun intended) of San Diego’s best tacos. For our first stop, we’ll head to the closest spot you can get a life-changing taco in straight from your arrival in SD.

The Taco Stand

Locations: Downtown, North Park, La Jolla, Encinitas

I’m not joking with you when I say this place may have changed my life. They have a classic fried fish taco that’s one of the best.

Part of the reason was that I didn’t expect it to — they have multiple locations all over the city, and of course grilled shrimp on fresh corn tortillas and carne asada on fries is going to be amazing (right?)

I was treated to a downright feast at their downtown location, and due to being in a group, got to taste a bunch of different menu items and salsa combinations. The single best thing to grace my face was the spectacular Mar y Tierra fries, though again you won’t want to skip the Baja taco here.

What to Order: Mar y Tierra fries, Sonora taco, Baja taco, Al Pastor.

From here you’ll head down south to the neighboring city of Chula Vista for our next three stops. These tacos are worth any inconvenience and/or time spent in the car to get there.

Tacos El Gordo

Location: 689 H Street, Chula Vista
Also at: 3265 Palm Avenue in San Diego.

We’re going to deviate from fish tacos before we head straight back into seafood town, because the next spot serves up authentic fare from just across the border in Tijuana, BC and believe me when I say…these are some of the best tacos you can eat in this wide world.

I would tell you to wash down your delicious, authentic tacos with horchata here, but let’s be honest, you need to save room for our next stop.

What to Order: If you skip the adobada here, please never tell me about it. It is a MUST.
The carne asada, chorizo, and lengua are excellent choices, depending on your mood/tastes. Be aware that there are different lines for each taco.

El Pescador

Location: 1008 Industrial Boulevard, Chula Vista

If fish tacos are San Diego’s signature food item, this food truck is their shrine.

Less of a taco stand and more of a food truck with a permanent location, your first bit of El Pescador changes the fish taco game in a big way. It’s a family-owned spot that’s easy to miss — but hard to forget once you’ve tasted their fish tacos. Go easy on the sauces at first — most are pretty spicy. And don’t miss the free seafood consommé they give you to sip on while you wait! 

What to Order: Two words. Spicy Shrimp!
Also, try the Gobernador and the marlin if you have the stomach space. You can’t go too wrong here. Just be prepared to stand — there isn’t much seating at all (not that you’ll care after you taste it!)

TJ Oyster Bar

Location: 4246 Bonita Road, Bonita (just up the road from Chula Vista)
Also: 601 E Palomar Street, Chula Vista

What began as a Tijuana fish taco cart in the 80s is now a powerhouse in the San Diego fish taco and seafood scene. They even (God Bless this place) keep their fish taco price fixed at $0.99 to stay true to their taco cart roots. And really, isn’t that the way it should be?
Their fish taco might be my favorite of all, but it’s the tostadas like the smoked tuna and the stingray machaca that make a truly lasting impression. Their micheladas are money here as well.

What to Order: Fish tacos, stingray machaca (spicy!) anything else you have room for at this point.

Next, we’ll head to what is considered one of the best taco spots in not just San Diego, but all of America. You’ll find that it tops the lists of many people’s favorite fish tacos — and while that certainly doesn’t make it the best by default, it’s a great place to end your taco tour (if you still have room in your stomach!)

Oscar’s Mexican Seafood

Locations: Pacific Beach (PB,) N. Pacific Beach, Hillcrest, Encinitas, East Village

Oscar’s is well-regarded for its grilled fish taco, which uses fresh, local ingredients including a sauce made in house daily. They also have excellent ceviches, seafood tortas, and best of all — a taco happy hour Monday to Thursday from 2:30-5:3opm where tacos are a mere $1 each.

What to Order: classic fish taco, surf ‘n’ turf, taco especial (smoked fish, shrimp, and scallops,) grilled octopus taco. Be aware that some locations only take cash.

At this point I pray you maybe feel like taking a break from fish tacos or tacos in general, but if your thirst cannot be easily quenched (believe me, I get it) and you seek to continue your quest…this is where I’ve been told you’ll want to go next:

Other Recommended Spots:

• Puesto
• Lucha Libre
• La Playa Taco Shop
• The Brigantine
• El Comal (smoked marlin taco)
• Blue Water Seafood Market and Grill
• ¡Salud!

A final word: in the debate of battered/fried fish tacos versus grilled fish tacos, there is really only one winner.

If you’re on a dedicated search for the best fish taco in San Diego (or on Earth,) you have to go with battered (not grilled.) I’m sorry. Work it out with your healthy intentions after. It has to be this way.

And if you’re looking for more to do in San Diego than just eat (which is acceptable,) check out this awesome San Diego itinerary.

San Diegans/friends of San Diego taco tour — where else would you add?

Happy eating and taco hunting!

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Some people go to Nashville for the music. Or so I hear.

This second visit to Music City, however, was for me all about the food. My first time passing through, I had had my first mouth-burning bite of hot chicken, I sampled a meat-and-three, and then cooled said mouth off with a Jeni’s ice cream in Hillsboro Village (also, Pancake Pantry…hello!)

So one could say I whet my appetite for Nashville on that quick stop through a few years ago. When I found myself in Memphis this year, not a whole lot could stop me from going back — fork and knife in hand — for more.

From nights out in East Nashville to my first honky-tonk experience (ok, maybe it was also a little about the music,) to a Nashville Eats food tour, to restaurants and some of the best places to eat in Nashville, plus multiple stops at the same barbecue joint…it’s incredible how much you can learn about a city’s food scene in just a handful of days and 3-5 daily meals!

So, what are the classic must-haves for a foodie weekend in Nashville?

Here’s the list of the best places to eat in Nashville I wish someone had given me before I arrived.

Where to Eat in Nashville

A Nashville Food Guide (Best Suited for a Weekend)

Martin’s Bar-B-Que 

410 4th Ave S (Peabody)

Why It’s Cool: One look at their BBQ pits (you can ask to take a peek,) and you’ll understand why this place is a legendary spot for Tennessee barbecue. The best BBQ in Nashville!

What To Get: Ribs, of course! Their wings were also excellent. Or get a sampler platter so you don’t have to choose. Ask for a side of all the sauces to taste them all.

The 404 Kitchen

404 12th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: A delicious + fresh menu with unique items like scallop toast and rabbit. One of the best restaurants in downtown Nashville.

What To Get: The house-made burrata, chilled lamb salad, cornbread.

Rolf & Daughters

410 4th Ave S (Peabody)

Why It’s Cool: Widely acclaimed — this was probably the most recommended/highly rated restaurant recommended to me.

What To Get: Sourdough with seaweed butter, pasta, a cocktail!

Butcher & Bee

902 Main S

Why It’s Cool: If you’ve reached your breaking point for smoked meats and heavy sides and need some veggies, this seasonal spot is a welcome respite from your typical Southern eats.

What To Get: Whipped feta, shakshuka, avocado crispy rice.

Kitchen Notes

250 5th Avenue S

Why It’s Cool: Nashville food writer and cookbook author Jennifer Justus calls this one of the best biscuits in the city.

What To Get: Buttermilk biscuits with butter and jam!

Pancake Pantry

1796 21st Ave S

Why It’s Cool: If you love breakfast (and who doesn’t,) save room for this epic pancake spot with menu items like cornmeal pancakes cooked with green chilis or sweet potato pancakes. 

What To Get: Classic or crazy pancakes as suits your taste/mood that day. Add bacon at your own risk.

Mas Tacos Por Favor

732 McFerrin Ave

Why It’s Cool: Never one to search for Mexican food outside of California, Texas, or Mexico, these tacos still rock and should be enjoyed no matter your taco location snobbery.

What To Get: Tacos! (Duh.) Though I also hear rave reviews for their chicken tortilla soup and elote.

Las Paletas 

2911 12th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: It’s literally cool to get one of these flavorful and fresh popsicles, especially on a hot day.

What To Get: The classic and more inventive flavors (I got avocado) seem to all be a hit. Take your popsicle to the park across the street if the mood strikes you!

The Treehouse Restaurant Nashville

1011 Clearview Ave

Why It’s Cool: You won’t find this at the top of most Nashville food lists, but for me (and my friends) this was a highlight of all the places we ate at in Nashville. The food here is fantastic — and the atmosphere is fun, relaxed, and inviting. They also serve late night (until 1am.)

What To Get: We loved the beef tartare and the ramp noodles most!

Lockeland Table

1520 Woodland St

Why It’s Cool: Another East Nashville favorite, it feels like a true neighborhood spot yet the place is chic and food and drink is delicious. Go for the happy hour (4-6pm,) which is actually a community hour supporting a local design center.

What To Get: Their wood-fired pizzas are a highlight. In the summer, the one with peaches on top was divine.

Rosemary

1102 Forrest Ave

Why It’s Cool: A fantastic East Nashville cocktail spot with a fun ambiance and likely a chill crowd.

What To Get: One of the house cocktails. Sit on the back patio!

Husk

37 Rutledge St

Why It’s Cool: Well, I’ve only been to the location in Charleston, but it’s still one of my favorite dining experiences. Expect inventive dishes with heirloom Southern ingredients.

What To Get: A reservation. Then anything from the menu.

Frothy Monkey Coffeehouse

235 5th Ave N

Why It’s Cool: Full of freelancers and cappuccino sippers, it’s a local favorite for a reason and they serve brunch until 5pm (enough said.)

What To Get: Choose from a creative coffee menu and delicious breakfast and sandwich options.

Five Daughters Bakery

1110 Caruthers Ave (12th S); 1900 Eastland Ave (East Nashville)

Why It’s Cool: Cute design and to-die-for donuts.

What To Get: Maple bacon (mmm.)

CREMA

15 Hermitage Ave

Why It’s Cool: The best coffee I had in Nashville.

What To Get:Their coffee soda is unique, espresso is well-made, and the chai is quite good as well (if you’re feeling over-caffeinated!)

Woolworth on 5th

221 5th Ave

Why It’s Cool: A classic diner serving classic Southern eats with a large portion of history. This is where 1960s counter sit-ins of the civil rights movement took place.

What To Get: I loved their mac ‘n’ cheese and black-eyed peas. Many of the menu items have a story — so ask as you go!

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken

2222 8th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: It’s hot chicken. Take fried chicken, add cayenne pepper. Taste it, have water nearby, and see why the craze exists.

What To Get: Choose your spice level and your sides, buckle up, and get ready for a spicy ride.

Prince’s Hot Chicken

5814 Nolensville Pike; 123 Ewing Dr #3

Why It’s Cool: The O.G. hot chicken spot. Eat it and compare, because everyone is going to ask you to choose a favorite.

What To Get: Choose from mild, medium, hot, and extra hot (if you dare.)

Robert’s Western World

902 Main Street

Why It’s Cool: my reluctant adventure into honky tonks began here. I was surprised and delighted, and I’ll bet you would be too.

What To Get: they serve a $5 PBR and baloney sandwich with chips if you’re hungry…! Sip your drink of choice and soak up the atmosphere.

Other Highly Recommended Nashville Restaurants — on my list for next time:

• Patterson House
• The Catbird Seat
• Henrietta Red
• Arnold’s Country Kitchen
• Monell’s
• Five Points Pizza
• Pinewood Social (one of the most fun places to eat in Nashville!)

Other Cool Things To Do in Nashville (Besides eat, if you must:)

• Grand Ole Opry
• County Music Hall of Fame
• Ryman Auditorium
• Bluebird Cafe
• Radnor Lake
• Go mural hunting (clearly, we did.)

aaaaand lastly,

Walk Eat Nashville Food Tour 

A great overview and sampling of classic Nashville eats led by passionate locals and food writers. I did the classic downtown Nashville tour, but they also have an East Nashville and a Midtown tour.

Where To Stay in Nashville

I loved my stay at SoBro Guesthouse. With a fully equipped kitchen, laundry, and even the option to have groceries delivered, it really felt like I had an apartment in the heart of Nashville. I liked the hands-on check-in (you receive a code) and the fact that you can text a concierge for any help needed, but otherwise, your stay is fairly independent.

The design here, both in the rooms and in the outdoor patio area, is beautiful — clean, colorful, hip, and comfortable. I especially liked the record player and old records — a nice vintage touch!

Most importantly, the SoBro Guesthouse is within walking distance to many of the things you’ll want to see/eat (with dangerous proximity to Martin’s BBQ.) The rest of Nashville is at your fingertips with a quick Uber or Lyft ride. And if you’re driving — there’s free parking.

(Note: I stayed as a guest of SoBro Guesthouse during my Nashville weekend.)

The patio at SoBro

Happy traveling and eating!

Save for later:

More: A Foodie’s Guide to New Orleans

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Barbecue, Blues, and Blogs in Memphis, Tennessee

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The American South is a region I keep getting called back to.

It could be the change of pace. It could be the charm, the favorite cities. It could be the fried chicken. This time, however, it was for Bloghouse — my favorite annual blogging conference (at which I mentor up-and-coming bloggers and teach travel writing.)

And when I found out I could fly direct from Oakland to Memphis for $59 (no, not a typo) and be eating Gus’s famous spicy fried chicken by lunchtime, I set out to brave the summer humidity and packed my bags faster than you can say “Bless Your Heart.”

Although I have and will continue to go on about Nashville, you don’t hear as much about Memphis these days. In fact, a Memphis resident I spoke with shared this hot take on the two Tennessee cities — “These days, Nashville is like the popular student in the classroom. Shiny hair and lots of time in the spotlight. Memphis though, Memphis is the quiet kid in the corner that might surprise you with how cool he really is.”

So, four days and several pounds later (worth it,) here’s what I found in Memphis: soul. If Nashville is country music, then Memphis is rhythm and blues. And when the city sings, you won’t want to compare it to any place else.

—

Where to Eat in Memphis

Ah, the Southern food trifecta: fried chicken, barbecue, biscuits and gravy. (Washed down with a sweet tea, if that’s your thing.) To me these are the must-eats of any trip to the South, because quite frankly they don’t taste as good anywhere else. And lucky for you Memphis visitors, the city does them all right.

Gus’s Fried Chicken

Many food establishments claim to be ‘world’s best’ or ‘world famous,’  but have no doubt that Gus’s actually lives up to the claim.

I literally went straight off the plane to eat here and I stand firmly by my decision. I recommend going midday after the lunch rush if you can — lines can be quite long in peak times. Whether you have to wait for a table or not, you can rest assured what you are served will be worth it.

Grab fried chicken of course, and then choose your sides accordingly. I ate at Gus’s several times, and my favorite sides include the mac ‘n’ cheese, fried okra, and coleslaw. Save room for pie if you dare! (Extra points if you also eat the chicken with a Gibson’s donut!)

Central BBQ

With each location famous for different aspects of BBQ, I knew going in that Memphis was best-known for its dry rub and its ribs. Begin there at this famous spot, which again lives up to all the hype you’ve heard beforehand.

For me the way to go is to order ribs and perhaps one other meat of your choice. Order them dry and then you can get all of the different sauces on the side to see what suits your fancy without having to make a sauce commitment (you’re welcome.) Try the pulled pork nachos if you want to be blown away.

As for lines, they seem to move pretty quickly — so don’t get discouraged if you see one wrapped around the block.

If you’re on a tour-de-BBQ, also check out Cozy Corner and Charles Vergo’s Rendezvous.

The Flying Fish

If, like me, you equate good Southern food with down home vibes and perhaps, say, fried catfish and hushpuppies, this is your spot.

Immediately you’ll feel transported stepping in their doors. And while they’ve got a huge menu full of seafood-focused options, you better believe they also serve all-you-can-eat catfish every Wednesday for $12.99. SO. GOOD.

Blue Plate Cafe

An awesome spot for breakfast. It’s everything I ask for with my first meal of the day — friendly service, free-flowing coffee, excellent pancakes, crisp bacon, and some of the best biscuits and gravy of your life. Enjoy.

Loflin Yard + Railgarten

Once you’re done touring the classics, you’ll definitely want to head to these two places. Both have open air spaces that feel a bit like someone’s backyard, with plenty of entertainment, food, and drink to go around.

At Loflin Yard, I loved the charred salad (get your veggies on!,) the wings, and the brisket tacos. They do a mean pimento cheese dip as well if that’s your thing!

Railgarten offers up local beers, duck fat fries, cheese curds, and will you believe it…one of the best veggie burgers I’ve tasted. Take some time to relax and enjoy their fun outdoor space!

The Gray Canary

I didn’t get the chance to eat here, but I heard from several locals about how excited they were to have this new spot from renowned chefs for some Memphis fine dining. I had a look at the space when I was in the nearby Old Dominick’s Distillery and from the raw bar to the grill, I was excited about every menu item so you should probably know about it.

Things to Do in Memphis

National Civil Rights Museum

For me this was the single most important stop of my visit to Memphis. Located in what was once the motel Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in, it now showcases the history and culture of the American Civil Rights Movement. Its moving exhibits and displays are very interactive and the stories told within its walls continue to be of utmost importance today. Allow for a few hours at a minimum to take it all in.

Graceland

Whether or not you’re a fan of The King, his mansion and his story set largely in Memphis are a huge part of American popular culture and music around the world. Graceland has a bit of a theme park-esque vibe (be prepared to have your picture taken and to board shuttles,) but there’s no arguing that it’s a quintessential even fascinating experience to learn about his life and legacy and see his former home (a bit of a time capsule!)

Sun Studio

The site of Elvis Presley’s first ever record recorded (at age 18,) the walls of this small music studio have since seen the likes of Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, and more. They’ve got a small set of exhibits and a guided tour that immerses visitors in music history.

Beale Street

Day or night this is one of the most happening streets in all of America — with live music, blues bars lights, and likely, some debauchery. Security is tight in the evenings, but it’s worth braving the crowds or lines to get a taste of the truly iconic musical street that is at the heart of Memphis’s past and present.

Other:

Get out on the Mississippi River: Try Memphis Riverboats or, take a kayaking tour.

Drink on a rooftop: One of my very favorite experiences in Memphis was touring then new Old Dominick’s Distillery. They have a beautiful rooftop, amazing cocktails, and often feature live music. Plus, it’s across the street from Gus’s!
I also had the chance to try out the seasonal rooftop party at The Peabody. Fun live music as well, plus those city views (at sunset!) The Peabody hosts parties on their rooftop every Thursday night from approximately April to August.

This visit I had my fair share of pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes, and mac ‘n’ cheese as well — don’t you worry!

Memphis Hotels

Ever since I first thought of visiting Memphis I had The Peabody on my mind. The iconic hotel is as grand as any in the South, but is perhaps best known for its famous ducks that live on the roof, march to the lobby, and play in the fountains. The ducks are well cared for, and more adorable than I thought they’d be — but it’s the charm of the story and the tradition that goes along with them that endeared them to me.

The Peabody is located at the heart of downtown Memphis, meaning you can walk to the majority of the places listed above with relative ease. Check out the lobby or grab a drink. Even if you aren’t sleeping here (though I recommend you do!) it’s more than worth stopping in to soak in the history and beauty of the hotel.

——

Quick Trip Tips

• Getting to downtown Memphis is a quick and easy Uber or Lyft ride. Plan for 15-20 minutes to get there.
• Ride the street cars! The Main Street Trolley has just been brought back and at $1 per ride, the fare is exceptionally reasonable.
• Even if you aren’t a guest at The Peabody, you’re welcome to stop in to see the Ducks March! It takes place at 11 am and 5 pm daily.
• Check out the I Love Memphis blog for current events, shows, and more goings-on.
• If you have the time or are so inclined, check out Cooper-Young neighborhood. It’s a hip area with lots going on.

Disclosure: I was teaching at Bloghouse during my time in Memphis. Thank you to Memphis Tourism, The Peabody Memphis, Mediavine, and Tennessee Tourism who hosted part of my stay.
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The island was a Mayan sanctuary to goddess Ixchel for about a thousand years.  If you find yourself in Cancun, but looking for something calmer and a little smaller in scale — with even better access to the natural beauty and culture of the Yucatan…the Isla is worth retreating to.

The laid back feel of Isla Mujeres translated to instant relaxation for me, so take a deep breath and come on a photo journey  there with me now.

The white powdery sands of Playa Norte…
Boat trips out on the warm Caribbean Sea…
Fresh fruit drinks and refreshing shade…
Uncrowded beaches…
Unique snorkeling and diving (Cancun Underwater Museum)
A thriving underwater world to explore…
SeaWalls street art and mural project…
Architecture…
And glimpses of local life…
Of course not without fresh seafood and fine Mexican cooking…

All topped off by a glowing sunset and dinner on the sand.
(Isla Mujeres Palace Hotel.)

Thank you to the Cancun CVB for hosting me. All opinions (and images) are fully my own.

Updated March 2019.

 << Check out more Day Trips from Cancun >>

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Escape the resorts and see the best of the surrounding area.

I wanted to like Cancun. I really did.

Mostly because I love moments where you’ve begun a trip with low expectations, embraced a place, and realized your relationship to that location has changed due to your experiences.  To me, this is what travel is all about — not mindlessly listening to the opinions of others, but having the courage to keep an open mind and go and see for yourself.

But there was something about Cancun in particular that brought the traveling Scrooge in me.  Maybe it’s because I’m a Californian and the other side of Mexico is neighboring and familiar. Maybe it’s because I like to think the “spring breaker” portion of my life has passed.  Whatever the excuse, Cancun simply wasn’t high on my travel wish list.  So when I booked a spontaneous flight there to attend a travel media conference (TBEX,) I had mixed emotions about what to expect.

And while Cancun itself didn’t foster a change of heart, I did find it to be a great base for exploring a few places that did.

Traveling to Cancun does not have to mean umbrella drinks and compound-like, all-inclusive resorts.  While I enjoy free-flowing cocktails, buffets, and lounging on the beach as much as the next person, these things alone do not pique my interest enough to warrant time away from my life at home.  I needed to go deeper.

Luckily, if you’re brave enough to take to the Mexican roads, a healthy sense of adventure, history, culture, and tradition isn’t very far. Here are the best day trips from Cancun:

Many travelers head south to Riviera Maya, (more to come there) but I found heading west over into the Yucatan province to be a fascinating detour from the Cancun area.

Valladolid

For when you want to feel like you’re actually in Mexico

The best part about Valladolid to me was that I hadn’t heard of it before.  While it has become more popular as a stop on the road to Chichen Itza, it still feels like you’ve waltzed into the everyday lives of local people as opposed to something created for tourists. Though shops and restaurants clearly built as tourist infrastructure do exist, they’re easy to spot and avoid if you’re seeking something different.

I enjoyed walking along cobbled streets, pausing to talk briefly with others or take in the town square and cathedral.  The town feels more sleepy and traditional than catered to tourism, a welcome change.

And you know this is the place to get some real Mexican food.  My rule?  First, look for locals.  If you can’t see any eating where you’re looking, chances are your food will be more expensive and less tasty.  Then — search for the restaurant where the people taking your order don’t seem to care whether or not you’re coming to eat with them. They don’t have to engage, promote, or speak to their food — it speaks for them. The quieter, more unassuming spots — that still have a steady flow of customers — churn out the best meals if you ask me.

Chichen Itza

For when you want to see a new wonder of the world

It’s easy to debate skipping Chichen Itza, especially if you’re short on time or you’ve explored other Mayan ruins. But then there’s the little fact that this massive monument is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the seven wonders of the New World.

The ruins are massive and expansive, and for the most part well restored.  If you have it in you to dodge the long roads lined with souvenir stands, this is a sight to behold.  Seeing Chichen Itza is a travel dream for many of us, and it’s worth the drive from Cancun just to learn about the Maya history and stand in awe of the monuments.  You can also book one of the many Chichen Itza tours from Cancun, if you don’t feel up to renting a car. Go early or stay late to avoid the busloads and tour groups.

Cenotes

For when you want to experience something borderline magical

Magical is a term used perhaps too often in travel, but for cenotes, or natural freshwater pits present in great number throughout the Yucatan — it is a fitting description.  There is something otherworldly, spiritual, and all together beautiful about these pools of water.

Swimming in one can be a refreshing break, scuba diving in one all at once calming and daring, and simply pausing to look at them is something unique and natural to the area.  The changing color, light, and clarity is really something to see.

The variety of cenotes in the area are some of the most popular Riviera Maya day trip. There are many to see as you make your way west from Cancun, including some of the most photographed ones both right outside of Chichen Itza (Cenote Ik Kil) and Valladolid (Cenote Zaci.)

You can reach all three of the side trips (town, monument, nature!) via a newer highway with higher speeds and tolls, or by slower, more interesting route along less maintained roads and through villages if you can take the time.  We took one option either way, to see a little bit of everything in only a day’s time.

Easily both day trips from Cancun.

Even if you choose not to spend much time in Cancun, you can still enjoy it for what it is.  Resort upon resort was built here for a reason: it is beautiful.  It’s much easier to base yourself there, and it’s much more personal to rent someone’s condo or home as opposed to one of thousands of high rise hotel rooms.  Find some calm in the chaos, don’t be afraid to explore outside of the hotel zone…and perhaps you’ll find yourself enjoying Cancun after all.

View of the morning sunrise from the balcony of our condo rental (coffee in hand.) Perfect start to the day to explore Cancun and its surrounding area.

<< Read more about another top Cancun day trip – Isla Mujeres >>

This post was updated in 2019.

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