Weekend Getaway Archives • Part-Time Traveler https://parttimetraveler.com Find your balance of travel and home. Wed, 09 Oct 2024 22:30:16 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.10 https://parttimetraveler.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/cropped-weekendinparis10-32x32.jpg Weekend Getaway Archives • Part-Time Traveler https://parttimetraveler.com 32 32 Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Mendocino https://parttimetraveler.com/san-francisco-to-mendocino-weekend/ https://parttimetraveler.com/san-francisco-to-mendocino-weekend/#comments Thu, 26 Jan 2023 16:55:33 +0000 https://parttimetraveler.com/?p=11784 A Mendocino Travel Guide Seeking a calm weekend getaway from San Francisco? Look no further than Mendocino. Growing up in Northern California, I thought I had weekend destinations here well established. Somehow it still took years of living in San Francisco for me to finally get to Mendocino. When I finally did, for the first […]

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A Mendocino Travel Guide

Seeking a calm weekend getaway from San Francisco? Look no further than Mendocino.

Growing up in Northern California, I thought I had weekend destinations here well established. Somehow it still took years of living in San Francisco for me to finally get to Mendocino. When I finally did, for the first time last spring, it quickly became a new favorite spot to get a change of pace from the city. Mendocino refreshes you in a way that is hard to describe.

Just a few hours drive up the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco, being here always feels like a breath of fresh air (maybe because it literally is?) Whether clear or misty, a wild, jagged coast awaits you, and no matter how many times you visit it feels like you’ve discovered some nature-filled secret. The redwood-lined drive in alone puts me instantly at ease.

I first ended up in Mendocino when looking for a weekend trip from SF where we could bring our dog along. It’s not only dog-friendly, it’s close for most of the Bay Area but is just tucked away enough to feel worlds away (in a good way!)

We first spent five days exploring the area and enjoying its beaches, trails, parks, gardens, and cafes. More recently I had the chance to return for my first trip with a newborn in tow.

If you’re looking for a coastal trip that’s beautiful, calm, and friendly to all, it is definitely worth treating yourself to a Mendocino weekend. Here’s what you need to know to plan a visit of your own.

Getting from San Francisco to Mendocino

From San Francisco, it’s a short 3-hour drive through Marin and Sonoma, up the coast, and through the redwood forest. Plan 4 hours for a more leisurely drive with stops. You can also take two buses to get there if a car isn’t in your plans, but it’ll take you about double the time. I recommend driving if you can.

My favorite place to stop along the way is Boonville. It’s always where we grab a bite (shoutout to the Disco Ranch, the loveliest wine bar and specialty food market) but you can also pause at any of the Andersen Valley wineries that call to you along the way. A few I recommend include Toulouse Vineyards, Husch Winery, Navarro Vineyards, and The Madrones, which has four tasting rooms in one beautiful location. Healdsburg is another favorite wine country spot that’s easy to stop at along the way — although I typically reserve this for its own visit as it’s much closer to the city.

Where to Stay in Mendocino

I stayed at the same spot for both visits to the area: the wonderful Stanford Inn. There are many lovely inns along the coast, but for me, Stanford Inn checks all the boxes for a weekend getaway — peaceful, pet-friendly, family-friendly, and in general, friendly (i.e. wonderful people run the place!)

It’s set in a meadow with organic gardens and farmland, with ocean views from many of the rooms. It’s quiet but still close to town and has its own truly fantastic vegan restaurant on site (plus, breakfast is included each morning with your stay.) A bonus of the location is its proximity to Big River, with Catch-a-Canoe rentals and launch area steps from the inn’s front door.

To me, the highlight of the Stanford Inn is its focus on wellness. I recommend relaxing on the property for at least one day to enjoy their gardens, sauna, and pool. They offer yoga classes, massage (in the forest!), gardening classes, plant-based cooking classes, and art therapy regularly. You can also arrange to experience acupuncture, Ayurveda, meditation, breathwork, or Chinese herbology with their knowledgeable staff. They even have free mountain bikes available to guests. Or, you can opt for my favorite activity as of late — lounging in front of the fireplace. There’s one in every room.

They welcome all pets, but for us, the small touches like freshly made dog treats and blankets so that our dog could sit comfortably on the couch with us, make all the difference. We opted for the two-room suite for our family of four (furry friend included) and it was great to have the extra space. Having stayed in multiple different room types there, you’re in for a treat no matter which space suits your travel style.

Things to Do in Mendocino

Whether you’re in town for the weekend or an extended stay, there’s plenty to see and do (in a leisurely manner, of course.) I like to mix and match something active with something relaxing, like a hike with a restaurant or a beach trip with a bike ride. Here are a few things to bookmark as you explore:

Take a Hike

There is a wealth of places to enjoy a stroll in nature and get your forest bath on. A few noteworthy trails include the Russian Gulch Waterfall Loop, the Fern Canyon Trail, the Big River Trail, a Mendocino Headlands cliff walk, and the newly opened Noyo Headlands Coastal Trail a bit further up north.

Rent a Bike

You can bike all throughout Mendocino and its surroundings. Biking leisurely around the downtown area is always fun, stopping for a snack or a drink along the way. Mountain bikers are also welcome on many of the hiking trails listed above. You can bike on old logging roads in Jackson Demonstration Forest. Heading inland a bit, Manly Gulch Trail is a great forest path for biking. If you’re looking to bike next to the ocean, check out the Ten Mile Beach Trail just north of Mendocino in Fort Bragg.

Visit a State Park

Many of the area’s best trails are located in state parks. Bookmark Van Damme State Park, Mendocino Headlands, MacKarricher State Park, Russian Gulch State Park, Caspar Headlands State Park, and Jug Handle State Reserve, and visit whichever works best for you on any given day (they’re all beautiful.)

Be on the lookout for grey whales passing through if you’re visiting during the winter. Year-round, we love exploring the tidepools at MacKarricher State Park. For those of you with pups in tow, the Headlands trail and MacKarricher boardwalks are both dog-friendly.

Catch a Canoe

One of my very favorite activities in this area is a calming paddle up Big River. If your preference is to stay on land, there is also a great hiking and biking trail that follows the river, or you can enjoy the views at Big River Beach where the river meets the ocean. Canoeing or kayaking all but guarantees a slower pace, with a sense of connection to the nature around you. We always see tons of wildlife, including birds, otters, and harbor seals.

Soak It All In

If after hitting the trails and beaches, you may be inclined to slow down a bit further. Up the highway, you’ll find the Mendocino Botanical Gardens, a sublime garden spread out over 47 acres. You’ll need to purchase your ticket in advance ($15,) and check their website for their opening hours which vary by season.

If you’ve had enough forest bathing and want to switch gears to actual bathing, look no further than the Sweetwater Spa. The eco spa in the center of downtown has outdoor soaking tubs to access either privately or communally (note that clothing is optional in the community tub.) There’s also a redwood sauna on site. You’ll want to reserve the private soaking tub in advance.

Where to Eat in Mendocino

These are my favorite places to grab a bite in and around Mendocino (after several visits:)

  • Cafe Beaujolais – dinner, but The Brickery inside is fantastic for lunch
  • Patterson’s Pub – lunch and dinner (don’t miss the fish and chips!)
  • Good Life Cafe and Bakery – breakfast and lunch
  • The Ravens Restaurant (Vegan) – breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus happy hour before 6pm
  • Noyo Fish Company (Fort Bragg) – lunch and dinner, fresh from the sea at Noyo Harbor
  • Princess Seafood (Fort Bragg) – lunch, women-owned, also at Noyo Harbor

And to drink, check out North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg if you enjoy craft beers! Fort Bragg is the area’s largest town, located about 15 minutes drive up the coast from Mendocino’s downtown.

I hope you enjoy the area, including the scenic drive from San Francisco to Mendocino, as much as I have! Let me know in the comments if you have other favorite spots you recommend exploring here.

:: save for later ::

san francisco to mendocino weekend guide

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Things to Do in Whitefish, Montana https://parttimetraveler.com/things-to-do-in-whitefish-mt/ https://parttimetraveler.com/things-to-do-in-whitefish-mt/#respond Sun, 18 Aug 2019 00:16:56 +0000 https://parttimetraveler.com/?p=11373 If you've long dreamt of Montana -- its glassy lakes and snow-topped peaks -- it's time to plan a trip.

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Taking in the Mountain Air in Whitefish + Glacier National Park

Whitefish, MT draws many visitors to its popular ski resort and for its proximity to the stunning Glacier National Park, and rightfully so. It is also a destination in its own right — a welcoming and wonderful small town with bold landscapes right at its doorstep.

Downtown Whitefish MT

For years I’ve felt drawn to Montana. The town of Whitefish is surprisingly well-known given its size; I think that has something to do with its feel both as a chic resort village and hidden mountain escape. With its community feel, fresh mountain air, and a gem of a culinary scene, Whitefish was a great home base for my first stay in the state.

Whether you’re staying there to visit the park or simply to enjoy the town and surrounds itself, there is lots to love about this beautiful part of America. Here is an overview of the top things to do in Whitefish:

Get Outside: Hiking, Biking, and More In Whitefish

Whitefish Trail

Clear lake in Whitefish, Montana

With 10+ trailheads and 42 miles of natural surface to walk, bike, or hike on right next to town, there are plenty of scenic views and forested paths to keep any nature-lover happy. Some of the most popular hikes include Lion Mountain and Swift Creek. Whitefish Trail is runner, dog, horse, and kid-friendly.

You find all the trailheads and a trail map here.

Whitefish Bike Retreat

Mountain Biking on Whitefish Trail

Located just outside town, the Whitefish Bike Retreat is a lodge, hub, and training center created especially for bikers. As someone who had never been on a mountain bike before, I headed out here to learn some new skills and try out some of the nearby trails.

Whether you’re going for the day, camping overnight, or staying at the lodge — or even just popping in for a coffee or a beer during your ride — you’ll find some of the friendliest faces (including cute dogs!) to welcome you. They’re uniquely equipped to help with any and all biking needs, so it’s a good spot to know of if you plan on doing any mountain biking while in town. I highly recommend this spot!

Whitefish Lake

Lodge at Whitefish Lake

The glacial lake bearing the same name as the town is a favorite spot for visitors and locals alike. In the summer you can lounge in the sun or in shaded areas along the water, or, if you prefer to be active, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and take to the lake. There is also a public boat launch and designated areas for swimming.

Viking Creek Trail

Viking Creek Nature Trail path

An interpretive trail that’s great for families, you can expect educational signage and a newly groomed trail that feels safe and easy to walk on but fully immersed in the wetlands nature. Look out for the bear claw marks on some of the trees! With accessibility for all visitors, this is one of the best mellow outdoor things to do in Whitefish. It’s also free to access.

Winter Activities vs. Summer Activities

There’s also skiing of course, in the wintertime. Whitefish Mountain Resort is the biggest draw. In the summer you can also seek out mountain biking, hiking, and zip-lining here.

Golfing, rock climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and even skydiving are all ways to get out into the Great Outdoors in and around Whitefish, depending on the weather and your personal thirst for and/or comfort level with adventure.

Side note: if it’s raining, or you don’t want to be outside, check out the Whitefish Theatre Company. They put on excellent productions!

Visit Glacier National Park (A Must)

Mountains in Glacier National Park

Going-to-the-Sun Road

The famous Going-to-the-Sun Road is a fantastic way to easily see many of the highlights of the park. Parts of the path are open year-round, but you will want to plan and time your visit based on who the road is open to. At times it’s open to just bikers (as it was during my visit,) and not to motorized vehicles. This is largely dependent on the weather conditions, so be sure to check their website for updates ahead of your trip. Here’s a general overview of the seasonal access in the park:


Open Year-Round: The road from West Glacier to Lake McDonald Lodge

Open to Bikes and Pedestrians Only: Shoulder season (usually May/October)

Open to Cars: Summer (June-Aug/Sept.)


Going to the Sun Road, Montana

You can rent a car and drive on the road during the summer months. If you’re hiking or biking, you can grab the Whitefish Shuttle from town. They go both to Glacier National Park and to the Whitefish Trailheads mentioned above.

I recommend taking advantage of the small period when the Going-to-the-Sun Road is open to bikes and pedestrians only. Although you’ll have to power your own transportation, you can see more of the park in the same amount of time. While it’s possible you may encounter less-than-favorable weather, you’ll avoid most of the crowds. (Highly recommended.)

You can check out current information, as well as the dates of past openings and closings, on the official Glacier National Park Going-to-the-Sun information page.

And if you’re looking for a guide specific to Glacier National Park (as well as Banff and Jasper) I recommend this one.

Taste the Local Brews and Spirits

Big Sky Brews Cruise

I was able to visit two fantastic local beer spots — Great Northern Brewery and Bonsai Brewing Project — with the help of this great tour (and no need to worry about drinking and driving!)

Spotted Bear Spirits

I loved the cocktails I tasted from this local spirits producer. You can visit their distillery, which uses local and organic botanicals, and try their seasonal cocktail menu, which reflects the changing seasons of Glacier County.

Partake in Some Whitefish Wellness

Yoga in Whitefish on lake

Yoga at Yoga Hive

I loved the class I took with Yoga Hive Montana, which has locations in downtown Whitefish and nearby Kalispell. Even better are their yoga classes at Whitefish Lodge (if offered.) You can do yoga with a view of the lake and a mimosa afterward!

SaltBox Himalayan salt room in Whitefish

Himalayan salt treatments at SaltBox

I live for my Himalayan salt lamp at home, so it was a treat to experience the new SaltBox in downtown Whitefish. You can relax in their salt rooms, in which microparticles of salt enable dry salt therapy that can help with breathing, skin, sleep, and overall wellness. They also have an infrared sauna (perfect for cold days or after long hikes.)

Dine Out, Montana Style

The Best Whitefish Restaurants

I’ve got an upcoming post with more details about where to eat in Whitefish.

For now, restaurant highlights include:

  • Abruzzo – Italian
  • Swift Creek Cafe – American Brunch/Lunch
  • Latitude 48 – American/Fusion
  • Pescado Blanco – “Mountain Mexican”
  • Piggy Back BBQ – great for casual!

How to Get to Whitefish, MT

Whitefish, MT’s closest airport is Glacier Park International, which is a short 15-minute drive to downtown. Several direct flights are available (although some are seasonal,) ranging from Seattle and Denver to Los Angeles and Atlanta. For my Bay Area folks, there is seasonal direct service from OAK on Allegiant, but the trip from SFO with a quick stop in Denver is fine, too. The aforementioned Whitefish Shuttle does airport drop-offs/pick-ups to get you into town. If you fancy taking the train, Amtrak has a station right in the heart of Whitefish. Or, I hear the drive into town (from nearby states) is spectacular!

Where to Stay in Whitefish

treehouse in Whitefish MT Snow Bear Chalets

The well-established Lodge at Whitefish Lake is popular and so lovely, but so are many of the smaller B&Bs and apartments in town. Here are the best of them:

Whether you’re planning a trip and looking for things to do in Whitefish MT or you’re now thinking about going…I hope this sets you up to experience the best of the area! Let me know if I can help with any further questions before or during your trip.

*My trip was made possible with the help of Explore Whitefish, but all opinions and recommendations are completely my own.

Cheers!

anne in handwriting

:: save for later ::

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Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Carmel Guide https://parttimetraveler.com/san-francisco-to-carmel-guide/ https://parttimetraveler.com/san-francisco-to-carmel-guide/#comments Sat, 09 Feb 2019 16:36:33 +0000 https://parttimetraveler.com/?p=10650 If you’ve been following along on social media, you’ll have noticed that I made the trip from San Francisco to Carmel frequently last year. Jessica of Bon Traveler and I launched our first Gather + Getaway retreat there a few weeks ago (thank you so much for all your support!) Both of us write about […]

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If you’ve been following along on social media, you’ll have noticed that I made the trip from San Francisco to Carmel frequently last year. Jessica of Bon Traveler and I launched our first Gather + Getaway retreat there a few weeks ago (thank you so much for all your support!)

Both of us write about travel for a living, so as we planned our first retreat we considered spots around the globe for its location. We’re also two Northern California ladies living in San Francisco, though — and we realized that the beauty within a few hours drive from SF warranted staying closer to home.

Big Sur road trip from San Francisco to Carmel

Hopping in the car from SF, Carmel is just a two-hour drive from the city — and when you get there, you get a whole new vibe.

Dark green cypress trees frame deep blues and turquoises of the clear sea. Waves crash powerfully along the rugged California coastline. Colorful tiles line stairwells end at art galleries, garden passageways, and wine tasting rooms. Homes and shops feel a bit like they’ve been plucked out of a European fairytale.

Although I tend not to overuse the word ‘charming’ to describe a place, it’s the exact word that best suits Carmel-by-the-Sea.

I grew up visiting the coast from Monterey to Carmel often as a child. Still, we would need to thoroughly research the area and intimately get to know Carmel to host a group there in the way we wanted.

So now, I present…my heavily researched and double-triple-checked guide to Carmel, California — an easy day or (ideally) weekend trip from San Francisco. It’s one of my top picks for a getaway from the city.

Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Carmel

Getting from SF to Monterey/Carmel

Without traffic, it takes just over two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey and Carmel. For every recent trip, however, we left San Francisco just before 6 am to beat all the traffic. Because you drive through the city and down past San Jose, there can be several slowdowns. I’d recommend driving in off-peak hours if you can — even if you’re just driving from the SFO airport.

If you have the time, Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove or Pebble Beach (near Monterey) are a few other stops to consider. Going from San Francisco to Carmel via Highway 1 is another slightly slower, but more scenic option that winds around the coastline.

And then when you arrive? Here’s what you need to know:

Things to Do in Carmel

Stroll the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea

Walking along Ocean Avenue will take you past most of the town’s highlights. Be sure to duck into alleyways and passages that often lead to patios and gardens. (The Thomas Kinkade Gallery side door leads to one of the best!) Check out the Tuck Box and Cottage of Sweets to see some of the most fairytale-esque spots.

Cute houses in Carmel, California
Passageways of Carmel CA

Walk the trails of Point Lobos State Park

I especially love the walk to China Cove, where you will see not only beautiful landscapes but also dozens of cute, chubby seals chilling on the beach below. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife — it’s not uncommon to see sea otters, seals, native birds, even whales (December to May.)

China Cove, Point Lobos, California
Point Lobos State Park visit

Spend a leisurely morning or an afternoon at Carmel Beach

Carmel Beach at the edge of town (and no more than a few blocks from everything) is one of the most beautiful beaches in California to me. Its soft, white sands and deep blue waters, often accompanied by impressive waves, make this a favorite spot for many. Walk or bike on the bluffs above, check out the oceanfront cottages as you go, and sit and relax on the sand if the weather allows.

Carmel Beach, CaliforniaVisit the Carmel Mission

The California Missions are some of the most beautiful and important parts of our state’s history. (Ask anyone who grew up here which one they did a report on in grade school!) Mission Carmel is one of the most beautiful, and most traditionally restored, of the 21 missions across the state.

Mission Carmel
Visiting the Carmel Mission

Take the scenic drive down Highway 1, or the 17 Mile Drive

As adorable as the town of Carmel is, there is nothing better to me than a relaxed drive down the coastline just outside of it. Drive for just thirty minutes south and you can see some of the incredible scenery of California’s central coast. The 17 Mile Drive, while stunning, requires you to pay to enter ($9.50.) It’s worth doing at least once, but to me, there’s nothing more freeing or appealing than just taking off down the winding coastline.

Carmel Food

Where to Eat in Carmel

These are my favorite places to grab a bite in Carmel-by-the-Sea (after several visits.)

  • Cultura Carmel: dinner + cocktails
  • La Bicyclette: lunch or dinner
  • Brophy’s Tavern: lunch or dinner + drinks
  • Chez Noir: dinner
  • The Stationaery: coffee, brunch, or lunch

Read more about the Best Restaurants in Carmel << in this post!

Brophy's Tavern, one of the best places to eat in Carmel CA

Vineyard Visit

Best Wineries in Carmel Valley

Folktale Winery

When we began scouting spaces in June last year, we knew we wanted to find and highlight some of the great (and low-key!) wine they’re making in Carmel Valley.

As soon as we stepped into the magical place that is Folktale Winery, we stopped the search. Their property is stunning, especially if you love modern design meets French chateau meets greenhouse space!

Folktale Winery, Carmel Valley, CA
Best wineries in Carmel Valley

To us, the atmosphere is so special (and reflects Carmel so much,) and the food and wine was great (try their sparkling rosé!) that short of spending the whole weekend in Carmel Valley, this one winery will more than suit your needs. There are tons of tasting rooms in town, but Folktale Winery is a short 10-15 minutes away by car and worth visiting.

Bernadus and Georgis Winery were the other two that came highly recommended if you want to add to your wine tour of Carmel Valley during your stay.

Best Places to Stay in Carmel

Hotel Carmel

What I love most about Hotel Carmel isn’t just its size (a handful of rooms,) its location (right where you can walk to everything without being in a busy section of town,) or its beautiful design, but just how much staying there feels like home to me. Everything from a lobby that feels like a living room to a self-serve breakfast of bagels with fresh homemade strawberry cream cheese to the local wines served fireside makes me feel both comfortable and like I’m giving myself a little splurge. It remains my top hotel choice for Carmel.

Hotel Carmel, California
Hotel Carmel lobby

La Playa Carmel

La Playa is the largest, more beachfront sister property of Hotel Carmel. It’s got a little bit more of a classic Carmel resort (rather than fresh and trendy) vibe, yet it’s similarly comfortable with large fireplaces, a friendly staff, and a great patio. Check out La Playa to see if it’s more your style…also highly recommended!

Hofsas House

If you’re looking for a friendly and budget-friendly place to stay right in the heart of town, you can do no better than the pink-colored Hofsas House.

The family-owned property has a historic past but retains its hospitality and warmth today. Actual warmth — via the dry sauna and heated pool on site or the in-room fireplace if you’re lucky — is a huge bonus on a chilly coastal day. You’ll be welcomed with friendly service, free breakfast (with fresh local pastries!), free parking, large room size, and many more amenities that make this a personalized and all-around lovely base in Carmel. Ask about ocean view room availability.

Hofsas Hotel Carmel

Neighboring Getaways

There’s so much around Carmel-by-the-Sea that’s worth seeing. Here are a few spots you can add to your Carmel vacation if you’re continuing down the coast.

Monterey

Enjoy the Monterey Bay Aquarium (my forever favorite,) Cannery Row, scuba diving, whale watching, and more.

It takes about two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey, whereas Monterey to Carmel takes only 10-12 minutes. Even if my visit is just to Carmel, I make a point to stop at Captain + Stoker, an excellent coffee shop in Monterey. I also loved Alvarado Street Brewery.

Golden hour and sunset at Bixby Bridge, a short drive from Carmel

Big Sur

The two stars of the Big Sur coastline (which is a star in itself the whole way down) are McWay Falls and Bixby Bridge — the likes of which you’ve no doubt seen all over Instagram. I’m a fan of driving to Bixby Bridge for sunset at the very least, and love stopping to take in the coastline in Garrapata State Park‘s beaches and rocky, seascape nooks.

If you have the time, a camping trip in Big Sur amongst the trees and fresh coastal air is also very worth it!

Other Good Things To Note!

  • You can fly directly into Monterey Regional Airport (MRY) from many West Coast airports. It’s worth connecting there rather than driving from SFO if you can manage it. It’s about ten minutes in an Uber to Carmel from there.
  • Carmel is one of the most dog-friendly cities I’ve been to! If you’re lucky enough to have a four-legged friend in tow, you’ll be surprised to learn that the majority of Carmel hotels and restaurant patios are welcoming to dogs.
  • There’s a beautiful, beautiful beach just past Carmel Beach (if you continue down the road, past where the parking ends.) It’s shaped like a crescent, is hardly ever crowded, and on a sunny day rivals any other beach I’ve seen in this world for natural beauty.

:: save for later ::

San Francisco to Carmel - A Weekend Guide

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A Weekend in Memphis Guide https://parttimetraveler.com/a-weekend-in-memphis-guide/ https://parttimetraveler.com/a-weekend-in-memphis-guide/#comments Tue, 03 Jul 2018 01:38:04 +0000 https://parttimetraveler.com/?p=9873 Barbecue, Blues, and Blogs in Memphis, Tennessee   — The American South is a region I keep getting called back to. It could be the change of pace. It could be the charm, the favorite cities. It could be the fried chicken. This time, however, it was for Bloghouse — my favorite annual blogging conference […]

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Barbecue, Blues, and Blogs in Memphis, Tennessee

 

The American South is a region I keep getting called back to.

It could be the change of pace. It could be the charm, the favorite cities. It could be the fried chicken. This time, however, it was for Bloghouse — my favorite annual blogging conference (at which I mentor up-and-coming bloggers and teach travel writing.)

And when I found out I could fly direct from Oakland to Memphis for $59 (no, not a typo) and be eating Gus’s famous spicy fried chicken by lunchtime, I set out to brave the summer humidity and packed my bags faster than you can say “Bless Your Heart.”

Although I have and will continue to go on about Nashville, you don’t hear as much about Memphis these days. In fact, a Memphis resident I spoke with shared this hot take on the two Tennessee cities — “These days, Nashville is like the popular student in the classroom. Shiny hair and lots of time in the spotlight. Memphis though, Memphis is the quiet kid in the corner that might surprise you with how cool he really is.”

So, four days and several pounds later (worth it,) here’s what I found in Memphis: soul. If Nashville is country music, then Memphis is rhythm and blues. And when the city sings, you won’t want to compare it to any place else.

weekend in memphis guide

Where to Eat in Memphis

Ah, the Southern food trifecta: fried chicken, barbecue, biscuits and gravy. (Washed down with a sweet tea, if that’s your thing.) To me these are the must-eats of any trip to the South, because quite frankly they don’t taste as good anywhere else. And lucky for you Memphis visitors, the city does them all right.

Gus’s Fried Chicken

Many food establishments claim to be ‘world’s best’ or ‘world famous,’  but have no doubt that Gus’s actually lives up to the claim.

I literally went straight off the plane to eat here and I stand firmly by my decision. I recommend going midday after the lunch rush if you can — lines can be quite long in peak times. Whether you have to wait for a table or not, you can rest assured what you are served will be worth it.

Grab fried chicken of course, and then choose your sides accordingly. I ate at Gus’s several times, and my favorite sides include the mac ‘n’ cheese, fried okra, and coleslaw. Save room for pie if you dare! (Extra points if you also eat the chicken with a Gibson’s donut!)

Central BBQ

With each location famous for different aspects of BBQ, I knew going in that Memphis was best-known for its dry rub and its ribs. Begin there at this famous spot, which again lives up to all the hype you’ve heard beforehand.

For me the way to go is to order ribs and perhaps one other meat of your choice. Order them dry and then you can get all of the different sauces on the side to see what suits your fancy without having to make a sauce commitment (you’re welcome.) Try the pulled pork nachos if you want to be blown away.

As for lines, they seem to move pretty quickly — so don’t get discouraged if you see one wrapped around the block.

If you’re on a tour-de-BBQ, also check out Cozy Corner and Charles Vergo’s Rendezvous.

central bbq memphis

The Flying Fish

If, like me, you equate good Southern food with down home vibes and perhaps, say, fried catfish and hushpuppies, this is your spot.

Immediately you’ll feel transported stepping in their doors. And while they’ve got a huge menu full of seafood-focused options, you better believe they also serve all-you-can-eat catfish every Wednesday for $12.99. SO. GOOD.

Blue Plate Cafe

An awesome spot for breakfast. It’s everything I ask for with my first meal of the day — friendly service, free-flowing coffee, excellent pancakes, crisp bacon, and some of the best biscuits and gravy of your life. Enjoy.

Loflin Yard + Railgarten

Once you’re done touring the classics, you’ll definitely want to head to these two places. Both have open air spaces that feel a bit like someone’s backyard, with plenty of entertainment, food, and drink to go around.

At Loflin Yard, I loved the charred salad (get your veggies on!,) the wings, and the brisket tacos. They do a mean pimento cheese dip as well if that’s your thing!

Railgarten offers up local beers, duck fat fries, cheese curds, and will you believe it…one of the best veggie burgers I’ve tasted. Take some time to relax and enjoy their fun outdoor space!

railgarten memphis

The Gray Canary

I didn’t get the chance to eat here, but I heard from several locals about how excited they were to have this new spot from renowned chefs for some Memphis fine dining. I had a look at the space when I was in the nearby Old Dominick’s Distillery and from the raw bar to the grill, I was excited about every menu item so you should probably know about it.

Things to Do in Memphis

National Civil Rights Museum

For me this was the single most important stop of my visit to Memphis. Located in what was once the motel Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in, it now showcases the history and culture of the American Civil Rights Movement. Its moving exhibits and displays are very interactive and the stories told within its walls continue to be of utmost importance today. Allow for a few hours at a minimum to take it all in.

national civil rights museum - lorraine motel

Graceland

Whether or not you’re a fan of The King, his mansion and his story set largely in Memphis are a huge part of American popular culture and music around the world. Graceland has a bit of a theme park-esque vibe (be prepared to have your picture taken and to board shuttles,) but there’s no arguing that it’s a quintessential even fascinating experience to learn about his life and legacy and see his former home (a bit of a time capsule!)

graceland living room

Sun Studio

The site of Elvis Presley’s first ever record recorded (at age 18,) the walls of this small music studio have since seen the likes of Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, and more. They’ve got a small set of exhibits and a guided tour that immerses visitors in music history.

Beale Street

Day or night this is one of the most happening streets in all of America — with live music, blues bars lights, and likely, some debauchery. Security is tight in the evenings, but it’s worth braving the crowds or lines to get a taste of the truly iconic musical street that is at the heart of Memphis’s past and present.

Other:

Get out on the Mississippi River: Try Memphis Riverboats or, take a kayaking tour.

Drink on a rooftop: One of my very favorite experiences in Memphis was touring then new Old Dominick’s Distillery. They have a beautiful rooftop, amazing cocktails, and often feature live music. Plus, it’s across the street from Gus’s!
I also had the chance to try out the seasonal rooftop party at The Peabody. Fun live music as well, plus those city views (at sunset!) The Peabody hosts parties on their rooftop every Thursday night from approximately April to August.

This visit I had my fair share of pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes, and mac ‘n’ cheese as well — don’t you worry!

Memphis Hotels

Ever since I first thought of visiting Memphis I had The Peabody on my mind. The iconic hotel is as grand as any in the South, but is perhaps best known for its famous ducks that live on the roof, march to the lobby, and play in the fountains. The ducks are well cared for, and more adorable than I thought they’d be — but it’s the charm of the story and the tradition that goes along with them that endeared them to me.

The Peabody is located at the heart of downtown Memphis, meaning you can walk to the majority of the places listed above with relative ease. Check out the lobby or grab a drink. Even if you aren’t sleeping here (though I recommend you do!) it’s more than worth stopping in to soak in the history and beauty of the hotel.

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Quick Trip Tips

  • Getting to downtown Memphis is a quick and easy Uber or Lyft ride. Plan for 15-20 minutes to get there.
  • Ride the street cars! The Main Street Trolley has just been brought back and at $1 per ride, the fare is exceptionally reasonable.
  • Even if you aren’t a guest at The Peabody, you’re welcome to stop in to see the Ducks March! It takes place at 11 am and 5 pm daily.
  • Check out the I Love Memphis blog for current events, shows, and more goings-on.
  • If you have the time or are so inclined, check out Cooper-Young neighborhood. It’s a hip area with lots going on.

Disclosure: I was teaching at Bloghouse during my time in Memphis. Thank you to Memphis Tourism, The Peabody MemphisMediavine, and Tennessee Tourism who hosted part of my stay.
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