An itinerary fit for two days…or two months (mon dieu.)

My wish and hope for you is that you have more than a weekend in Paris. Alors, a visitor’s mindset is that it’s always ‘le weekend’…plus, few days in Paris is better than no time in Paris at all!

Most years, I spend most of October in France. And most of that time is spent in Paris.

(By the way, October is the best month to be in Paris – if you ask me.)

There is something magical about any time spent in the French capital, particularly if you’re a visitor to the city. Even if you have just a weekend in Paris, you can take a ‘flaneur’ or ‘flaneuse’ approach, which just means one who wanders for pleasure and without aim.

If your ideal Paris weekend includes a desire to hit the major museums and monuments, or if you haven’t visited before, you may wish to spend your time differently and take a meandering approach on a return visit. This relaxed, curious method of exploring the city can be frustrating for someone who has limited time or is visiting for the first time — I get that.

If you had only a weekend to spend in Paris, would you run around checking off boxes, seeing as many sights as possible, and queueing to see a famous piece of art? Or would you stroll along the Seine, linger over a book in a cafe, and picnic in a park?

I will guide you not by ‘what to do on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.’ I will instead give you the framework resulting from my many favorite days and weeks in the city. And if you have visited before, I believe this ‘Weekend in Paris’ way of experiencing the city will open up its beauty to you in a whole new way.

Let the mindset of the purposeful wandering of the flâneur be your guide.

Pick an arrondissement and make it your base for the whole time you’re there.

It’s most convenient to choose your accommodation in this neighborhood as well, but you don’t have to.

A few favorites:

Choose a pâtisserie you can go back to each morning of your trip.

Of course the one you choose would ideally be near your accommodation so that you can get to know the people there and greet them every morning or so, almost as if you lived there.

A few suggestions:

I also love visiting Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in Paris (located in the Marais))

Get a place with a balcony.

Not a 100% necessary move, but one that is certainly enjoyable. I like drinking my local coffee and/or wine on a balcony that’s private to me, as well as enjoying the big windows and absorbing Paris in motion from above. (Recommended apartments listed at end of post!)

Bring your own picnic to a park.

Some recommended parks for picnics:

Suggested picnic goods:

Rent bikes using the Velib system.

Or, take a stroll on the Seine

Be a flâneur/flâneuse.

One of the greatest pleasures of Paris is simply wandering the streets with no plan. Put on your best walking shoes, soak in the beauty, and give it a try — you never know what you might find.

Not sure where to start? I love strolling from Saint-Germain-des-Prés past the Notre Dame cathedral, some of the most beautiful bridges across the Seine, and the Île Saint Louis, perhaps stopping for ice cream at Berthillon or in to see the impressive stained glass at Saint Chapelle. Nearby you’ll find one of my favorite tucked-away squares, Place Dauphine. This is one of my favorite self-led walking tours in all the city and the recipe for the perfect Paris day. Enjoy <3

Discover French wine at a local wine bar.

Wander into a wine bar at happy hour or later in the evening. Discover regions of wine (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, etc.) and enjoy the free-flowing inexpensive wines. Particularly good on a Paris weekend. I love:

Dine at a classic bistro.

Lingering over classic French food at a long-standing Parisian bistro is always a good idea. A few I recommend:

Sit en terrasse for a few hours.

Like the seated version of being a flaneur, one of the very best ways to experience Paris is to watch the world pass by from a cafe. You can’t go too far without running into one, but here are some cafe etiquette tips, along with a few favorite cafes:

Try out a newer restaurant.

Modern Paris has a variety of cultures and cuisines to sample. Check out Septime, Semilla, Verjus, Papillion, and Frenchie (to name a few) for some fantastic food that’s more modern than classic. There are also some incredible restaurants with non-French cuisine if you’re looking for more options. Pick up the book The New Paris before your trip for more.

A few more (local) dining resources:

Enjoy some of the excellent lesser-known museums.

If you’ve seen them before, I highly recommend skipping the fight with the crowds at The Louvre and D’Orsay. Many of the smaller museums of Paris are sadly overlooked by even frequent visitors. The three I’d head to first are:

Go in search of France’s regional cuisines.

There is a lot to love about Parisian food, and don’t think just in terms of French food! However, here are a few to taste from other regions of France while you’re in the city.

Explore the French pharmacy – especially if you’re interested in skincare.

And, Choose Your Own Adventure

Make a pilgrimage to Shakespeare and Company, Paris’s most famous English bookstore. It’s a friendly and important home to a lot of the city’s past and present literary scene.

See the Eiffel Tower up close. If you’ve already stood under it/beside it, check out a new angle or sit at a cafe that has a view of it. (I once tried to skip the Eiffel Tower on a visit, insisting I didn’t need to visit it, but I caved and went to see it and lo and behold, it still charms.) Another good, somewhat hidden spot to view it is the rooftop terrace of the Galeries Lafayettes — simply go to the 7th floor of the department store for a (free) panoramic view of Paris.

Versailles is truly a sight to behold, and it’s a quick train ride from Paris. If you’re really interested in going, it’s very worth it. However, there is so much to do/see in Paris I usually recommend staying in the city if you only have limited time. It remains one of the best day trips from Paris.

What to pack for a weekend in Paris:

How to Make French Friends (or at the least, have the best chance of starting off on a good foot wherever you go:)

Say ‘bonjour’ or ‘bonsoir’ and ‘merci, au revoir’ as you enter and exit any storefront or restaurant.  Even if you don’t speak any other French, it’s an important part of French culture to say these things upon entry/exit and will you put you miles ahead of others for service and general friendliness when in Paris.

Also, it may sound funny but smiling is generally frowned upon (ha.) You’ll find that French people may not be as warm and friendly as you’re used to in other places, especially if you’re coming from the States. Remember, this does not mean they’re not lovely people — and you might find that out with a little bit of spoken French and/or working to fit into French culture while you’re there.

Where to Stay in Paris

Bon voyage <3

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I’m not the first traveler to yearn for Provence. Its many French villages and hill towns are the best places to visit in the South of France. Not to mention its stone castles, hillside olive groves, sidewalk cafes, and lavender fields, all of which are the places travel dreams are made of.

Southern France’s cities are also lively and lovely; I particularly love the areas around Marseille and Nice. Yet it’s the small towns in France that really give you that Provencal glow, the feeling of soft, golden light carried by a faint breeze. It’s the kind that makes you want to skip through fields, or linger on a terrace amongst the streets with the wafting air of fresh pastries.

If you’re planning a trip, I hope you’ll make Provence and its villages part of your stay. Here are the best places to visit in the South of France, designed for a week (or so) depending on how much exploring versus relaxing you want to do.

Provence’s Best French Towns, Hills, and Villages

I recommend choosing a base depending on where you want to focus your time. All of the small French towns in this region are within a day’s driving distance, but I personally recommend minimizing your driving time (although the drives are quite scenic!) Most recently I focused on the Luberon, and it was my favorite part of Provence to date.

For a home base, I’d choose from Avignon (my personal favorite,) Aix-en-Provence (a little larger French town further south,) or Cassis, if you want to be on the coast. All three towns have that French charm and relaxed Provence feel and are well-located for visiting the rest of the area.

You could also stay in the smaller villages listed below, but I personally like to stay centrally in a bigger area and visit these villages by day.

Avignon

Set on the banks of the Rhône River and endlessly charming, Avignon is a wonderful medieval city that still feels like a small village. There are many great places to dine and sip, streets to wander, and sights to see.

Avignon is a great place to stay, and it’s well-connected by train (especially if you’re coming from Paris.) I recommend exploring the city center and its open squares, markets, and cafes. Be sure to check out the lively Rue des Teinturiers for some of the most beautiful architecture and best restaurants.

A little-known fact: Avignon was once the seat of the Catholic Pope (in the 14th century,) before returning its hub to the Vatican. You can visit the Palais des Papes in the city center to learn more.

From Avignon, you can easily visit the neighboring towns below. Each has a distinct beauty and landscape, so they all are worth seeing if you have the time!

Gordes

Gordes might just be the prettiest hilltop village in France.

I loved driving here to explore the cobblestone streets for the day and have lunch. I also recommend having a glass of rosé or a cocktail on the terrace of La Bastide de Gordes, which has one of the best views in town.

Don’t miss the beautiful Senenque Abbey, well-photographed for its surrounding lavender fields.

Roussillon

Roussillon is another hilltop village with a distinct feature — its coloring. Built on and around large ochre deposits, the town’s buildings have a red-orange tint from all the clay.

Aside from checking out the village, you can walk the nature trails amongst the ochre cliffs.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue

A quick stop on your way back to Avignon, L’Isle sur la Sorgue is best known for its antique shops and markets. The ‘island’ town got its name from the canals running through it.

The largest of the antique markets takes place on Sunday morning – prepare to arrive early if you are driving and will need parking.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

A little farther south from Avignon is this wonderful Provencal town. I thoroughly enjoyed dining (and even doing a little shopping) here. There is a truly delightful chocolate shop called Joël Durand that is a must.

Les-Baux-des-Provence

Similar to Gordes, this tiny village on top of a bed of rock is frequently noted as one of France’s most beautiful towns. There are only 22 residents atop the rock, but there are winding cobblestone streets and panoramic views for the visitor.

Arles

I stayed in Arles on one of my first visits to Provence and enjoyed the market, Roman amphitheater, and galleries. If you recognize Arles, it may be because Van Gogh lived here and painted some of his most iconic works of the town.

French Towns: Coast and Nature Focus

Aix-en-Provence

Aix is known for its 1,000 fountains, its wide boulevards and Cours Mirabeau, and sidewalk cafes. It has captured the hearts of artists, writers, and intellectuals who have flocked to the town for centuries.

Cassis

A seaside town on the Mediterranean coast, Cassis is just as romantic as it sounds. It’s a great village to see not far from Marseille. Try some fresh seafood at one of the cafes.

Massif de Calanques

Many visitors to Provence seem to miss these coastal coves and inlets, but they are part of one of the country’s most beautiful national parks. You can opt either to hike or boat alongside the cliffs, stopping to rest at a beach or climbing a hill for some heartstopping ocean views. You can also walk the path from Cassis to the Calanque d’En-Vau, one of the most picturesque.

For more of the best South of France destinations, check out:

• For wine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
• For lavender fields (seasonal,) Valensole
• For nature, Gorges du Verdon
• For more of the Côte d’Azur, Villefranche-sur-mer and Eze (both just outside of Nice.) The seaside cities of Antibes, Monaco, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez are all options as well.

And for more: Provence reading.

Bon voyage mes amis!

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When the opportunity to housesit there arose, I thought: I’ll take the Paris to Bordeaux train down, do some Bordeaux wine tasting, eat a few French meals, and then…likely run out of things to do. I compared it to my day trips to Napa and Sonoma wine country — in which the area is beautiful, but there’d be much more for me to do in the city.

Oh how wrong I was!

Bordeaux is not just a wine region (although it is one of the world’s most famous.) It’s a city coming into its own — on the up for past ten years or so and with the largest protected city center in France, which received UNESCO World Heritage Status for its historic, cultural, and architectural value. The city has embraced its nickname of La Belle Endormie or “Sleeping Beauty,” having turned itself from a gritty port city to one of the most vibrant and beautiful small cities I’ve been to in Europe.

There is so much more than just wine in Bordeaux. Below I’ve included a few things worth seeing beyond the glass. Alas, most if not all travelers to the city and the Bordeaux region come with the intent of tasting the best Bordeaux wine — as they should. From the famous Grand Vin de Bordeaux and Bordeaux red wine to the delicate Sauternes (the only dessert wine I’ll drink,) and the incredible wine coming out of lesser known areas like Entre-deux-mers, there’s plenty to be had. And there’s no shortage of different places and ways to experience it. While the wine chateau can certainly be the way to go, many of them can be enjoyed without leaving the Bordeaux centre.

Spending several weeks in the same city, especially one as special as Bordeaux…you learn the best places to go (particularly for a glass of wine.) Here are my favorites… xx

Wine Tasting Bordeaux

Taste the Best Bordeaux Wine at a Local Wine Bar

This is my personal favorite way to sample the best French wines! Here are a few of the best Bordeaux wine bars:

• Aux Quatre Coins du Vin: This spot lets you taste incredible wines in a variety of pour sizes…meaning you can sip an expensive wine or try a bunch of different ones without having to get a glass. A great local place to hang out.

• CIVB Le Bar a Vin: The Conseil Interprofessionnel de Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) has opened their doors up in this beautiful wine bar at the center of town. They have tons of information on hand and can help you decide what to get, and they offer some of the region’s best wines in an affordable and approachable way.

• Le Wine Bar: I even love the exterior of this classic wine bar, which serves over 300 different wines in a cozy bistro setting.

Taste Rare Wines of the World

La Cite du Vin, the city’s must-see wine museum, takes visitors through the history and evolving cultural significance of wine not only in France but around the world. The seventh floor wine bar, however, with its birds eye view of the city and river, pours wines from otherwise unknown vineyards in places like Algeria and the Republic of Georgia.

Visit the Smallest Vineyard in Bordeaux

Grand vineyards and chateaus undeniably have their draw, but it’s hard to pass up the charm of ‘Vin de Jardin,’ a tiny winery that makes only 500 bottles a year. Set against the beautiful hotel Le Saint-James, you can find it just outside of the city in the town of Bouliac.

Bordeaux Wine Tours

A wine chateau can seem harder to get a reservation at than the top restaurants in France (especially if you don’t speak French.) For this reason, many visitors opt for a Bordeaux wine tour of the nearby vineyards and chateaux.

Which Bordeaux wine tour to take? It depends how much of the production process you want to see, how well known the chateau name is that you’re trying to visit, how much time you have, and how much you want to spend.

Visit the Bordeaux Tourist Office

Not only can they make recommendations and help you make reservations, they can give you the invaluable knowledge of when each of the vineyards is open (times vary widely.) There are also a variety that require a car to access, and the tourism office can point you in the right direction if you want to see some wineries by public transportation. I found them to be both friendly and informative.

Take a Tuk Tuk Through the Vines

Why walk or drive through the famous vines when you can drive through some of France’s most beautiful vineyards on the back of a tuk tuk? Cruise through narrow streets and top wine spots in a fun and unique way. You can hire one from the center of town or book in the tourist office. 

The Bordeaux to St Emilion train runs nearly every hour from Gare Saint-Jare and takes only about 30 minutes each way.

Things to Do in Bordeaux

Taste Traditional Sud Ouest French Cuisine

A classic, homey bistro that’s known to serve some of the most traditional and tasty food in the region, you’ll be welcomed to La Tupina like you’re in someone’s home in the countryside. A great way to taste what’s great about Southwest France  — and it’s my top restaurant recommendation for Bordeaux.

Reflect at the Miroir d’Eau

The world’s largest reflection pool happens to sit in one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Many come to play in the water or see the views, but it’s worth seeking out not only by day but by night when the historic city buildings are lit up.

See Bordeaux’s Alternative Side

The beautiful open-air space in Darwin, across the river from the historic city center, is a haven for artists and entrepreneurs. There are sustainability initiatives, the largest organic restaurant in France (and fantastic brunch!), vibrant street art, a skate park and more if you’re looking for the modern side of Bordeaux.

Visit the Markets

Whether it’s eating at the classic Marché des Capucins or strolling by the river on a Sunday for the Marché des Quai Chartrons, most of Bordeaux’s best food and wine can be found in a local market. Check out the book market (!) and the antiques markets as well!

Bordeaux Day Trips

Picnic Atop Europe’s Largest Sand Dune
Dune du Pilat, France

A short bus or car ride away from Bordeaux is the largest sand dune on the continent, which makes not only for a steep climb or a unique beach day but one of the most memorable places to bring some cheese and wine and enjoy a picnic in nature. You can get there in an hour by train from the Gare Saint-Jean.

Sample Oysters Straight from the Sea
Arcachon Bay, France

Whether at the local market or by the sea in nearby Arcachon, there’s no denying that slurping fresh oysters is an essential but often overlooked Bordeaux activity. I recommend a trip over to Cap Ferret (a short ride from Arcachon,) which is the most beautiful and laid-back French beach town I’ve ever heard of.

Where to Stay in Bordeaux

Bordeaux has some of the best value Airbnb stays I’ve seen in France! I have found great places for 1-2 people for as little as $25 a night, so there’s no excuse not to stay in Bordeaux for several days. Get $40 off your first stay.

If you’re more keen on a hotel stay, I’d recommend:

• Intercontinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hôtel (Luxury): This hotel is the hotel of Bordeaux — right at the heart of the city center, beautifully appointed, and worth a visit even if you aren’t staying there.
• Hotel de Seze: A beautiful hotel that’s also in the center of the city, it’s a comfortable and well-designed stay that’s a little more midrange in price (but no less lovely!)

More to come regarding this favorite city of mine, but I hope this will put Bordeaux on your radar and give you a place to start when it comes to wine tasting Bordeaux.

Cheers // À votre santé!

// More food + wine posts //

// Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa //

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I have this strange ritual I repeat every time I land in Paris.

I almost don’t want to tell you about it, because I am aware that it’s random and a bit odd. But it takes me right back to some of the happiest moments of my life. So, I hold onto the habits (and even come clean with them here, to you.)
After dropping off my bags where I’m staying, is to immediately head to the nearest French chain grocery store — Carrefour, Monoprix, it matters not. The red lipstick and ballet flats emerge, and calm comes over me as I take to the Parisian streets.
I then proceed to pick up the same four things: a bit of both carottes rapées and celery rémoulade salads, (I told you this was random…) a wheel of cheese (the stinkier the better,) and a bottle of French red wine that’s under 10 euros. Perhaps I also get a fresh baguette.

This is my simple ritual.

I once saw Paris in a Bollywood film. It was the first film I ever watched in India. And though my plan was to head home from Italy after months of traveling, something about seeing Paris on the screen (in India, of all places) meant that I had to go there.
And so although it made no practical sense, and though I had been before a handful of times, I made plans to spend a month living in Paris. I wanted to linger. I wanted to relax there.

I found a cheap apartment, the kind you can’t fully stand up in, through a friend-of-a-friend. He was an American and an officer in the Navy, enough of a dreamer and a Francophile to keep a pied-a-terre in one of the nicest parts of the city. It was a former maid’s quarters, with a toilet in the hall and a switch on the wall to turn the water from the tiny sink to the shower stall…but it was Paris, and for a short month, it was mine.

So perhaps it was this first “real” experience that left me craving an appartment stay in Paris whenever my mind wanders to a distant place. I almost wish Paris wasn’t this place for me because it’s so cliche. But it happened, and the city is one of my favorite places on Earth to be romantic. And I don’t even need anyone but myself for that to be the case. (In fact, I prefer being in Paris alone!)

So while I’ve stayed in some beautiful hotels in Paris (this one is still my favorite,) here are the reasons I’ll always opt for renting an apartment in Paris:

The chance to feel like you live in Paris. (A girl can dream, right?)

To have your neighborhood pâtisserie and market, if only just for the week. (Utilisez votre français!)

To have access to a kitchen to enjoy the treats you find at French markets and shops. (Le Bon Marche, anyone?)

To experience residential areas of the city, where there is a lower concentration of tourists and visitors. (This helps with the pretending like you live there part.)

To more intimately know one arrondissement of the many magical parts of Paris. (My favorites are Le Marais (this stay,) Saint Germain-des-Pres, and Republique.)

I have gotten in the habit of choosing a different neighborhood to use as a base and home for longer stays, and it’s my favorite way to explore not just Paris but any city. I try to stay mostly around there and act (i.e. pretend) that I live there as much as I can. (Especially well-suited to Paris, if you ask me.)

To have a place to call your own, to create the habits and the memories that stay with you long after you leave. (Clearly, mine do!)

French friends are quick to remind me that “a vacation in Paris is not the same as living in Paris.” That is to say, that the fantasy of being there temporarily is different from the reality of living there (even if it is in an apartment.)

Still, even if it is a short-lived reverie, it remains a dream in which I can live…so long as there are apartment rentals and cheap plane tickets. <3

Merci beaucoup to Cobblestone Paris for hosting my stay.

(They even have a local come and greet you when you arrive!)
Minimum stay is often as few as three nights.
The apartment featured is called ‘La Charme du Marais’ if you wish to stay there

~

More Paris Stories:

Paris in Black and White // The City of (Unexpected) Love // The Beauty of the French Pharmacy

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For what does the city of love and light have to offer a solo traveler?

Love, and light.

You stroll contemplatively. You have days where your only agenda is to go by a certain ice cream shop or pop in to a particular bookstore. You look up at the rows of structured buildings and admire the stretch of intricate, iron balconies placed delicately upon beige facades.

You pick one arrondissement and decide: this is your home for the next two weeks. Maybe later it becomes a month.

You explore the neighborhood, find the cheapest place for wine in the evenings and cafe au lait in the mornings. The pâtissier begins to recognize you as the days pass slowly into evenings. You sit in parks and public squares and watch life and the city go by.

You dine alone for three hours, sit in a cafe with a glass or two or champagne, cherish three courses, and end with a cafe gourmand. No one rushes you. No one hassles you. You write in your journal or lose yourself in thought. And you enjoy every single minute.

Oh! But Paris isn’t for changing planes, it’s for changing your outlook.”

You fill your petit fridge with pungent French cheeses and cheap bottles of good wine. You walk to the open-air market and buy sweet, fresh fruit, or stop in the supermarché to have some tangy celery root remoulade on hand. You make yourself a picnic night after night.

You bike leisurely along the river, or over beneath the Eiffel Tower, just for the tiny thrill of going a bit faster after an aimless stroll.

You greet everyone with ‘bonjour’ and leave everyone with ‘merci, au revoir.’  You overhear conversations in French, and have no idea what they’re saying but you like the way their words echo as they speak.

Perhaps you wear bright red lipstick and little black dresses with colorful scarves or tiny ballet flats. Perhaps you feel elegant just by walking outside. Paris has a way of making you stand up straighter, and also relaxing into your true self. You both care deeply and not at all.

You discover impressive sights, yet cherish more the small street corners or pieces of art or unremarkable but beautiful cafes you never knew you wanted to see. You stumble upon a new favorite arrondissement, and make a note for your next visit.

Paris isn’t just a place for some. It’s a ritual. It’s a song, a dance, and poem that is lived and breathed. It is simple, subtle. It is both refreshingly old and startlingly new.

You connect with Paris because it connects you to yourself. You’re not just there observing through a looking-glass or a camera lens — you are just living. It is both the simplest and most decadent thing you can imagine.

You remember who we you before your heart was ever broken. You love Paris not for who or what or where it is, but for how it brings out the best in you. You adapt — even just for a few days or weeks. You are independent, strong, slow, present.

As a little girl, you always thought Paris was the place you’d go to with the love of your life — there would be hand holding, champagne toasting, and kissing under the Eiffel Tower. It’s a good thing you didn’t wait for that to happen…that’s the danger of letting the world or society or expectations define a person or a place for you. When we simply arrive, let go, and let time or a place or a journey flow, life often surprises us with something even better than we had initially imagined.

When in Paris, go it alone. It is not strange to take yourself on dates. It’s even encouraged that you buy yourself chocolates and pastries, fresh flowers, and fine meals. It’s romance, for one. You can think of nothing you need more in this moment.

Are we romanticizing Paris, even when dreaming of being there alone? Of course. But isn’t it exciting to know that you can live slowly, breathe deeply, and accept things as they are — not as we presume they will be?

Something about the way Paris moves teaches us to reflect it, if we are open to it. We find beauty and peace in simplicity and slow presence, deep thought. We find the beauty in a single moment. And as we see the world, we begin to see ourselves. We find ourselves seeking — and seeing — the beauty in our surroundings, in ourselves.

Respirer Paris, cela conserve l’ame. | Breathe Paris in, it nourishes the soul. – Victor Hugo

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This is the story of a travel writer (aka not beauty blogger) who like many, loves visiting Paris and goes as often as possible. It’s the story of choosing a different arrondissement for each visit and making a point to discover the neighborhood as much as possible. The mode of discovery is  always the same: wandering aimlessly on Parisian streets and through alleyways (see also: flâneur) and trying (or not trying, because how very Parisian) to do so with an air of calm (read: not wide-eyed and smiling.) This latest visit is the story of an accidental French love affair…with the pharmacy.

The arrondissement in question for this visit was Saint Germain-des-Pres (6th.) I knew that I would be roaming towards Le Grand Epicerie (just do it, people) for its food and wine. I wrote down the restaurants and cafes I wanted to sit for hours in, and had a few names from new local friends as well. I had a few museums and parks to see. I’d bike by the Eiffel Tower and walk along the Seine, because…Paris! (Already failing at proposed Parisian coolness.)

Normally I would do my best to avoid any obvious area of Paris that draws in a crowd. Yet on this mildly sunny day, slowly walking against a brisk wind, a horde of people at the corner of Rue Bonaparte and Rue de Four caught my attention. Swarms of women elegantly exiting…a pharmacy? Sans health issues requiring a prescription, I popped my head in to take a closer look.

Suddenly the elegance and refinement seems to have dissipated from the air. Women clutched to green plastic shopping baskets as they frantically wove in and out of narrow lanes. These weren’t just Parisians running errands. Puzzled, I stepped aside and asked myself: what were all these people, tourists even, doing buying medicine?

After more than half a dozen visits to Paris, apparently I was the last woman to hear about the magnificent draw of French pharmacy beauty, in this case specifically City Pharma (26 Rue de Four.) There was something more to this — there had to be! Overwhelmed by this new discovery, I did what any good travel writer would do — I went home to do some research alongside my friend Google.

In all my trips to Paris various themes had emerged: art, architecture, food, wine, (bread!) These are the beautiful pursuits that the French have mastered and that I have always sought to learn from. How had French beauty, which is really skincare…illuded me all this time?

As a traveler, I’m fascinated by the routines and daily lives of people in countries other than my own. How does another culture do things differently, and sometimes, better? The answers may surprise us, even in something as simple as how we take care of our skin.

Illusion no more. I sought out to explore armed with the knowledge of many, still not quite sure what I’d find delving into the shelves at City Pharma.

Two hours there and four months since then, I have a solid staple of new skin care obsessions that I feel compelled to share.

Many of the products I discovered have a cult beauty appeal, but for me I am just glad to have found such a sensible approach to skin care, especially for my sensitive skin. I’m already planning my next visit to France for when the supply runs low (any excuse, non?)

French Pharmacy Skincare Favorites

A few quick notes:

• The names below are clickable, which I thought could be helpful as most can be a bit tricky to find in the USA.
• Brands such as Nuxe and La Roche Posay (two of my favorites) have even started selling at Target! <3 (Keep in mind, you save at least half and sometimes more by buying in France.)
• Many products are also available on Amazon now (at that same higher price point. But still!)

Essentials:

Bioderma Micellar Water: When I first heard that French women don’t like to wash their faces with tap water, I thought it was quite silly. After trying this French favorite in place of my face cleanser, I get it. For one thing, it is so much easier and more convenient to wash your face this way (no sink required!) Micellar water consists of tiny little oil particles in water that draw out dirt and oil from your face. Best of all, it’s gentle for sensitive and acne-prone skin (like mine!)

Simple brand sells micellar water in most drugstores for a very reasonable price (I use their face wipes) but this Bioderma bottle is a favorite for a reason. I love using it as a makeup remover as well. No residue is left on your face, and it just feels incredibly fresh. It’s also perfect to take on the road (many pharmacies sell mini-bottles, which I will definitely be picking up next time.) Who knew!

Embroylisse Lait-Creme Concentre: Another cult classic I had never heard of, this is, quite simply, the best moisturizer I’ve ever encountered. It works with all skin types and for many different uses. I picked up the one made with orange by recommendation from the pharmacist and I love it, but I’m looking forward to getting a tube of this classic original.

Nuxe Huile Prodigeuse: This might ‘take the cake’ as my favorite product of all. Made of a blend of several different natural oils, it’s incredibly soothing and somehow still light. Best of all, it smells like pure heaven. I don’t love scents and hardly wear perfume, but I can’t even believe how much I love the way this smells. Use on hair, face, or body (best of all right after a shower or bath!)

Klorane Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk: Well known to many in the States, it’s the only dry shampoo I use. Get a big bottle for a big discount when in France. Another beauty fix that saves a lot of time, and is great for traveling when showers are less accessible.

Caudalie Beauty Elixir: This is tough to list as an essential because it’s a bit pricey, but I picked up a small bottle of this and it’s my favorite little luxury. It works as a toner and refresher, similar to a thermal water, but with essential oils it just smells lovely and acts as a pick-me-up when I’m feeling sick or tired (often when traveling, especially for long journeys in a plane or car.)

Avene Thermal Water Spray: Again, the skeptic in me thought: why would I buy and carry around water to spray on my face? First I can’t wash my face with tap water and now I have to spray it with special water from a can? Alas, I bought a tiny bottle to try — and fell in love. It’s literally adding moisture to the skin, but there’s something else about this water that soothes, smooths, and softens my face and calms my sensitive skin. I love to spray it on after cleansing (and while on a plane!) or if my face feels particularly dry.

Other favorites:

• Caudalie Instant Detox Mask: my favorite face mask. Feels indulgent and cooling. (All Caudalie products are available in the US, but so, so much cheaper if you buy in France.)
• Klorane Shampoo with Oat Milk: Like the dry shampoo, but the real deal. Gentle but clean feeling.
• La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo: Incredible treatment for troubled, acne-prone skin (available at Target, but keep in mind  the European formulation is different from the product sold in the USA.)
• Caudalie Vino Source Moisture Sorbet: Discovered this at home but bought at a discount in France. Very, very light yet effective moisturizer.
• Luxe Reve de Miel lip balm: A bit pricey in the US, but a delightful matte lip balm with a huge fan club.

Cytol Nat Centella cream (not pictured): I can’t find this for sale online anywhere other than Amazon, where it comes in at $30. I bought it for around 6 euros, so I’m going to have a hard time replacing it at home for that price but it’s essential for me. Heals scars, sunburns, inflammation, or my case, redness and spots from acne. Incredible stuff. (Update: I recently bought La Roche Posay Cicaplast B5 and I also love this for soothing troubled skin!)

Lucky for many of us, most of these products are available outside of the French pharmacy (decent availability in US and UK.) They run about 50% less if you buy them in France (especially at City Pharma, which has significantly lower prices than other French pharmacies,) so it may be worth holding off if you plan to buy and have a trip coming up.

Before this accidental discovery, the only product I’d really taken to while traveling was Tiger Balm (best thing ever.) So even if you have never considered shopping or foreign beauty products an appealing part of travel, the French pharmacy for me was a lesson — in the discoveries we find even when we think we know a city or a culture. With an open mind, there’s no telling what we might encounter when wandering on any given afternoon.  And if you’re not planning a trip but wish to discover a bit of the self-care and sensuality of Paris, this is a small window into bringing that experience home.

Ever since the incident in Colombia, I’ve come to value small acts of self-care and luxury no longer as frivolous or indulgent but as little acts of kindness to ourselves. Things like scented candles, long walks, soft fabrics, and healthy skin care awaken our senses and enhance the quality of life in ever-small but significant ways.

With my French pharmacy favorites, it isn’t so much about the products themselves (though I’ll admit, I’m a convert for life) as the experience of discovering them, and the memories they bring to life each time that I use them.

The post The Beauty of the French Pharmacy appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Me, too. Here are my freshest finds that reinvigorated the continent for me.

Where to Go, Stay, and Dine – Beyond the Obvious Destination

My Picks from Croatia, Slovenia, Spain, Italy, France

I promised myself I wouldn’t go to Europe again.
My heart yearns to return to Asia, all the time. I haven’t set foot in South America yet. The only place I have lived in and have seen a lot of is…Europe.

A traveler always has to decide — return to a place they already know they love, or see someplace new?

Yet with a strong dollar and a conference in one of my favorite places in the world, it wasn’t exactly hard to persuade me to reconsider. I was spending a month in Europe: some new places (Croatia, Slovenia) and some classics revisited (Spain, France, Italy.) Truth be told, my heart skips a beat every time I think about traveling in Europe. Though I know I need to venture out to see more of the world, it can be difficult to repeatedly resist Europe’s charms…

You all asked, and so I sat down to recap the best eats, stays, views, and experiences (that’s almost all the senses.) While I’ll be writing about many of these in more detail, I thought it might be helpful to have a list of everything altogether.

I’ve narrowed it down to a (*cough, short*) list.  It might seem like a random collection of recommendations, but I’m confident it will send some of you off to some of the best experiences in the world.
First off, here’s where I went:

Croatia: Dubrovnik, Mali Ston, Split, Hvar, Trogir, Plitvice, Krka, Zagreb
Slovenia: Ljubljana, Bled
Bosnia: Mostar
Spain: Málaga, Álora, Cordoba, Madrid, Barcelona, Girona, Costa Brava
France: Arles, Nice, Eze, Villefranche-sur-mer
Italy: Genova, Rome

Recommendations in each category are in that order. If there’s a specific restaurant that I found to be particularly good for that dish, it is listed as well.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out! These were my highlights though, and I’ve listed extensively where I would happily return to.

(And if you find yourself at any of these places, please do let me know! I would be so happy to hear about it. Each of these places holds a special place in my travel memories!)
HAPPY EATING + TRAVELING!

Eats

Oysters in Mali Ston (Croatia) (This type of unique “flat” oyster can only be found in one bay in the whole world)

Bota Sare (also locations in Dubrovnik, Split, and Zagreb though this is the original)

Vila Koruna (three is also a small inn above the restaurant)

Struckli (Croatia) (Just do it!)

Le Bistro Esplanade, Zagreb (try one savory with salt and one sweet with sugar!)

Lamb under the iron bell (Peka) (Croatia)

Konavoski Dvori, Ljuta, Croatia (just south of the Dubrovnik airport, a taxi can easily take you)

Dalmatian Ham/Pag Cheese (Croatia)

Burek (Bosnia, throughout the region) (You had me at meat pastry.)
Veal stew with chive dumplings and buckwheat (Slovenia)

Gostilna Murka in Bled (try any of their traditional menus!)

Pumpkin Seed Oil (Slovenia) (It’s ridiculously amazing, put it on everything.)
Scorpion Fish (If freshly caught – it looks scary but it’s really, really tasty. Also try octopus salad!) (Croatia)

Gariful – Hvar, Croatia

Pan com tomate (pan amb tomaquet) (Catalunya)
Cava y Pimientos con queso y más cava (Or actually, everything from this restaurant) (Catalunya)

El Xampanyet (Carrer de Montcada 22, Barcelona)

Botifarra (a traditional Catalunyan sausage)

Can Tosca (discovered on Devour Barcelona Four Tour)

El Xampayet (above) – had an incredible botifarra with crispy chickpeas here.

Gelateria Rocambolesc – Girona, Spain

It’s own separate listing, because it’s beautiful, inventive gelato from the geniuses (the Roca brothers) who bring us El Celler de Can Roca (just named the top restaurant in the world.)

Berenjenas con Miel de Caña (Spain)

Restaurante Sol del Rio – Álora, Andalucia, Spain

Salad with foie gras shavings, caramelized apple and pomegranate (Spain)

Restaurant El Pedro – Pals, Catalunya, Spain

Pasta alla Pesto Genovese

Trattoria Da Maria (Vico Testadoro, 14r, Genova, Italy)

Pasta in Rome: cacio e pepe, carbonara, and/or amatriciana (Rome)

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Testaccio, Rome, Italy

Suppli (Italy)

Trapizzino  – Rome, Italy

Wines of note:

• Dingač (red – Croatia)
• Cava (sparkling, Catalunya)
• Anything from Empordà (Catalunya)
• Rosé (France, Provence)
• Frascanti (white – Rome, Italy)

For the cocktail lover, here are a few favorite spirits I particularly enjoyed in their respective countries:

• Rakija (Croatia) (a grappa-type spirit, try the traditional travarica made with herbs.)
• Ratifia (Mediterranean Spain and France)
• Vermouth (all over…mmm)
• Tinto de verano (Spain)
• Gin and tonic (all the rage in Spain right now)
• Aperol Spritz (Italy)

Stays

I stayed in 25+ different spots over the course of several weeks. Here were the standouts:

Hotel Adriana (Hvar, Croatia)

Importanne Resort (Dubrovnik, Croatia)

Hotel Esplanade (Zagreb, Croatia)

TOC hostel (gorgeous hostel in Madrid, Spain)

El Cortijo Valverde (just outside of Álora, Spain)

Hotel Aigua Blava (Costa Brava, Spain)

Sant Pere del Bosc (Costa Brava, Spain)

L’Auberge du Pelerin et du Voyageur (Arles, France – though I hesitate to recommend it as the staff could use some help in the polite department…it’s a beautiful, affordable, central spot where there are limited options for solo travelers. And to balance out the scales, I made an amazing French friend there!)

Abbey Hostel Genova (Genoa, Italy)

The Beehive (Rome, Italy)

Views

Soaking up the atmosphere of a beautiful place is one of my favorite things about travel. It makes me feel alive, vibrant, and optimistic about our world.
Here are a few memorable views that come immediately to mind…

• Waterfront in Hvar
• Upper Lakes of Plitvice National Park
• Dubrovnik from the tram and city walls
• Lake Bled, Slovenia
• Côte d’Azur from Eze (Le Jardin Exotique)
• The Spanish countryside in Álora
• Barcelona from Passion Tower of La Sagrada Familia
• The alleyways of Andalucia (Córdoba pictured)
• Waking up in Costa Brava
• Coastal walk in Palafrugell, Cataluynya
• By the Onyar River in Girona, Catalunya (La Terra cafe)
• The small streets of Provence (Arles pictured)
• Looking up in Genoa, Italy

Experiences

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb (Croatia)

Climbing to the Mala Osojnica (viewpoint) of Lake Bled (Slovenia)

Swimming in Krka National Park (Croatia)

Old Bridge of Mostar (Bosnia)

Photo by Brad Bernard of MyWanderlist

Oyster farming in Mali Ston (Croatia)

Train from Ljubljana to Munich through the Austrian countryside (scenery galore!)

Zagreb coffee shops/Zagreb by night (especially with Secret Zagreb Walks)

Sitting riverside in Ljubljana (Slovenia)

Walking the El Caminito del Rey (Alora, Spain – just reopened!)

Flamenco show in Málaga (not touristy!) 

Wandering the Mesquita of Córdoba (magnificent)

Learning how to Casteller (Catalan human towers)

Yoga in the Sant Clotide Gardens (Lloret de Mar, Catalunya)

Small winery in Costa Brava (Finca Bell Lloc – they make (and raise) every product on site!)

Lunch in a traditional barraca on the beach in Costa Brava

Food Tour: Devour Barcelona

Saturday market in Arles

Discovering Testaccio + Food Tour: Eating Italy

Walking the city center of Rome by night (Best time to see Rome! Please be aware of your safety)

While this by no means encompasses my entire time in these countries, I hope it does give you a reason to dream — a reason to plan! — your next trip. Perhaps it will give you a few places or the best European travel experiences for your travel wish list. It’s also a preview of what awaits you, dear reader, in the coming months.

For now, whet your appetite over with my piece on European rail travel on Huffington Post Travel.

After all, it’s the experiences that make a place and the stories that shape the experience…

Where do you most look forward to reading about? 

Disclaimer: As a travel writer, I am often invited to experience destinations, hotels, restaurants, or tours. I only say ‘yes’ to the ones that truly interest me, and I only share those which I wholeheartedly recommend. I also pay for the majority of my travel out of my own pocket, and I so appreciate the partners who make it possible for me to bring you a wider range of experiences here on the blog.

*Some posts on this site contain affiliate links.  If you purchase something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for supporting the site!

The post European Experiences for the Traveler Who Has “Done” Europe appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

See: Rome in Black and White

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Is there anything more French than crêpes? Maybe. They’re called galettes. And I have a savory, buckwheat galettes recipe for you!

Originating in the Bretagne (Brittany) region by the coast, these savory crêpe-like (but not crêpe!) wonders were only just introduced to me by a French friend in her home kitchen on my last visit to Paris. The term ‘galette’ is used in French cuisine to describe a flat, round cake.  Generally I have found galette to refer to the buckwheat thin pancake I first ate, but more specifically these can be known as Breton galettes. The buckwheat flour gives them a nutty flavor and a heartier texture, and the beauty is…once you get the galette batter down, there are endless possibilities for fillings!

First, you’ll create the galette batter:

• 1 1/2 cups milk
• 3 tbsp melted butter
• 2 eggs
• 2/3 cup buckwheat flour
• 2/3 cup all-purpose flour (I got the best results with white whole-wheat flour.)
• Pinch or two of salt
• 1/2 tsp sugar (optional)

Mix the first three ingredients together and then add the flour and salt.  Mix thoroughly, whisking encouraged.  Let sit in refrigerator for a minimum of two hours, preferably overnight. Coat a large, flat frying pan with a small amount of butter before adding a half cup of batter to the center of the pan. Use a ladle or simply tilt the pan until the batter is completely spread out.  Remember, thinner is better. Cook for 1-2 minutes on medium heat or until the edges begin to brown.  Flip the galette to the other side and cook thoroughly or begin adding your fillings.

Here are three of my favorite flavor combination discoveries so far:

The classic… Complète: ham, egg, gruyère or comté cheese

After flipping your galette once, crack an egg in the center and let it begin to cook. Slice or tear the ham into small pieces and intersperse with generous amounts of grated gruyere.  When the egg is just about cooked, fold the galette around the contents and serve.

The decadent: Leek confit with chèvre (goat cheese)

Leek confit

(prepare ahead of time) (Adapted from Bon Appetit)

• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 4 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Melt butter in large pot over medium-low heat. Add leeks; stir to coat. Stir in salt. Cover pot; reduce heat to low. Cook until leeks are tender, stirring often, about 25 minutes. Uncover and cook to evaporate excess water, 2 to 3 minutes.

You can also choose to lightly caramelize them at this point but adding a pinch of sugar and letting them brown slightly before removing from the heat. Add goat cheese to galette in pan, sprinkling leek confit on top.  Fold and serve!

The slightly sweet: Toasted hazelnuts, honey, and ricotta

Toast a handful of hazelnuts (substitute walnuts or pine nuts to switch it up!) in a dry pan for 1-2 minutes.  Spread ricotta across galette in pan, sprinkle nuts on top and drizzle with honey.  Fold and serve! It took several times for me to get the galette prep and execution just right.  Once you’ve got it down, it becomes a fun and easy way to play with a tasty meal and connect with French culture.  I hope you enjoy as much as I did!

The post Buckwheat Galettes Recipe: Savory Crêpes, Three Ways appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.