(And why where you stay in Sicily for your holiday makes a difference.)

When it comes to travel, I always believe we should follow the inklings that draw us to a place. And for years I felt the pull to Sicily.

So I did what I always do next…I asked around about where I should stay. Yet the more I asked my fellow travelers if they had been to the island, the more I realized very few people seem to make it to Sicily. The area is not nearly as popular as the main cities and sights in the rest of Italy. (Of course, this turned out to be one of the main reasons I loved it so much.)

Those who had gone commented that it wasn’t the most solo travel-friendly spot, if for no other reason than it’s best traversed in a car and the journey is an adventure best made with a co-pilot. So, armed with a cheap flight to Rome and said travel partner in tow, I finally made it to Sicily this year.

After deciding to go, the next call I had to make was where to call my home base for the majority of the trip. I envisioned staying on the beach or the cliffs overlooking the ocean — and while I did that too (Cefalu!) the most memorable part of my time in Sicily was to be found elsewhere.

Staying in the Val di Noto, Sicily

Many travelers who have felt the siren call (or simply, the persistent urging of their friends who have been,) take to the major cities and beaches of Sicily. The area of Sicily that stuck with me most, however, doesn’t have either of those things.

The Val di Noto, located on the southeast part of the island, was mostly destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century. What was rebuilt still stands today as one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in the world.

What does this mean for the visitor today? Wide boulevards, hillside towns, church facades, and narrow alleys — often in stone and primarily built into their natural surroundings. Exploring the towns of the Val di Noto feels a bit like wandering in a maze — if that maze happened to be lined with delightful trattorias, wine bars, and pastry shops.

I chose to base myself in Modica, which is best known for its artisan chocolate made from a recipe that dates back to the Aztecs. Much as I was curious to try the chocolate (it is quite spectacular) I was most excited to call the Residenza Hortus home for a few days.

What: Residenza Hortus, an artist-renovated three-bedroom historic home

Where: Right off the Piazza di San Giorgio in the heart of Modica, Sicily

When: Year-round, though summers bring more people to the area

Who: 2-6 people

How Much: from €210 to €500 per night

A friend had directed me to the collection of artist homes called Anime a Sud or ‘soul of the south.’ Designed by Italian artist Luca Giannini, I loved both his passion for the project and the intention and meaning behind each choice in the home.

The first thing I noticed upon entering the space each day was how light and airy the entire home is. Each of the bedrooms represents a different element, so you’ve got a ‘fire’ room with a fireplace built into the wall, an ‘air’ room that opens out onto the terrace, and a ‘water’ room with an elegant bathtub for a headboard (a hotel first as far as I know.) Each has custom-carved tile and design touches that subtly convey the theme. All of this lends itself to an ambiance of peace and natural flow in the house.

Off of the open kitchen is a beautiful recovered iron staircase, which leads down to a stone wine cellar filled with Sicilian wines. Most of the house is made of stone, so you get a sense of grounding and quiet as you relax in each of the rooms. Every detail honors the story of the origins of the property and the story of the local area, each exquisite material chosen deliberately.

As I learned more about the Residenza Hortus’s reconstruction, it made even more sense why I felt so connected to this special place:

The architectural project first focused on the ‘soul of the place,’ in order to catch the basic field lines and the specific energetic condensations and emotions which had stratified in that place across the time, and that had slowly turned into a sort of thin grid made of balances and harmonies which necessarily needed to be respected during the restoration works.”

Luca Giannini, artist and founder

Perhaps the best part of the home is the large terrace, which sits surrounded by Sicilian orange and pomegranate trees and beneath the tops of the San Giorgio church. There’s a small heated pool that’s great for winding down after a day of exploring. The terrace is a calm oasis that feels both modern and centuries old, and entirely private and yet engaged with the heritage of Modica. Its garden, of course, represents the earth element in the home.

The excellent and kind local staff is on hand not only to introduce you to the area and give tips, but also to arrange activities and private meals on the terrace, which we had the pleasure of experiencing one slow morning. There truly is a balance of feeling like you’re in a personal home — but with the amenities of a boutique hotel.

From Modica, it’s easy to explore the neighboring Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa, Siracusa, Caltagirone, and Scicli. (I recommend them all!) Each feels unique in its own way, and each has excellent food and unforgettable views. All make great day trips from the Residenza Hortus (unless, like me, you are tempted just to stay in and nearby the house.) I was grateful to learn more about the region and its food in the Sicily chapter of this incredible book about Italy’s culinary culture.

There is a lot to see even walking distance up and down the hill from Hortus (don’t miss the chocolate, really!) You can also explore the Southeastern beaches or Catania and Mount Etna if you haven’t already. All of the towns (including Catania) comprise the UNESCO World Heritage status given to the Val di Noto, so it feels cohesive to set out to explore them all.

Anime a Sud also renovated a smaller apartment in Modica called Casa Kimya, plus a perfectly located space in Siracusa. Like Residenza Hortus, both tell a story that makes you feel like uniquely immersed in Southern Sicily. I can’t wait to go back to experience them all.

Residenza Hortus was one of the most personally restorative and deeply thoughtful places I’ve had the pleasure of staying in. It’s a comfortable and stylish home, yes — but it’s also a living, breathing work of art that is more than a place to rest your head at night. The entire space speaks to you of this incredible region’s past, present, and hopefully, future.

My stay at Residenza Hortus was kindly hosted by the owner. However, all opinions (and photographs) are strictly my own.

:: save for later ::

The post Where to Stay in Sicily appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

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Testaccio.

Not the word that comes to mind when you think of Rome?

It wasn’t for me, either. That is, I believe, one of the reasons it took five visits to the Eternal City for me, as I told friends, to “get” Rome.

On this last visit, I had a mere day and a half to squeeze in visits to some of my existing favorite spots (mostly to eat, or drink espresso.) I didn’t have the slightest desire to trek to major sights — heck, I almost didn’t plan on seeing the Colosseum (until I realized that it’s not a visit to Rome without it making an appearance.) I’d been to Rome on my own, with friends, with family, and with my ex-boyfriend — all of whom had their first visit. So I’ve done the museums, monuments, and musts (and their lines) more times than I’d care to admit.

I still wanted to experience a new side of the city. I thirsted for a deeper experience. And, I knew I’d be hungry.

After consulting with friends and fellow travelers/expats, I honed in on the illustrious Testaccio neighborhood. A bit rough around the edges, but with the right ratio of Romans-to-tourists and a reputation for some of the city’s best food, I was ready to dig in.

The first moment I really knew I loved Rome, it was quite late at night. I could hear nothing but dim street lights whispering as they flickered — drowned out by the numerous fountains, whose waters rushed elegantly throughout the corners of the city.

A misunderstanding with an Italian police officer had led to my train from Genova arriving much later than anticipated (another story for another time!) Fortunately I had a friend from home awaiting my arrival. This particular friend enjoys the calm of late night walks, and we had often walked at night together in San Francisco. It had always been a great way to see a completely different side of my city.

It couldn’t have been a better way to see Rome. There were no crowds — only the elegance of ancient Rome, the sight of yellow-lit statues and the flowing sounds of silence, footsteps, and water. We walked through the center of Rome in complete peace until nearly 3 am.

During the day, Rome often doesn’t make sense to me. It’s chaotic, it’s partly in ruins, it’s often hot. I couldn’t quite get into its rhythm (and I’m pretty sure that was because I did nothing but run from one “must-see” site to another.) Yet I still remember one moment around 2 am this time: I paused and looked up at columns towering over me. Somewhere in the darkness and the silence, Rome spoke to me for the first time.

In between all of the chatting Rome and I did that quiet evening, I ignored my judgment to go to sleep at a reasonable hour. I had a full day of exploring ahead of me. Fortunately I knew — the first stop was for…a cappuccino.

Testaccio was the first place I felt surrounded by Romans, instead of tourists.

I tasted flavors so bright, fresh, and local — produce of Lazio, grown no more than 30 miles away. I drank in history that was old, even musty, but still dusting itself off and  kicking vibrantly.

I came upon a hill created over centuries by discarded clay pots, amphorae that once housed olive oil for Romans. I ate a trio of Rome’s most classic pastas while staring at pieces of the hill. I sipped foam and espresso, crunched on the corners of pizza al taglio, and sunk my teeth into suppli. I learned what it’s like to take a bite of true mozzarella di bufala — one created less than 24 hours prior to it being served to me.

I inhaled what was perhaps the richest scent of my life: a tangled mixture of sweet Balsamic vinegar and wheels of aged Parmesan cheese.

I dodged legs of ham dangling from the ceiling as I chowed on truffled pecorino and salami infused with barolo wine. I learned that you should never, ever eat a cannoli that is pre-filled. And I inhaled some of Rome’s finest gelatos, never doubting the panna on top.

Once the tour concluded, I walked the streets of Testaccio — first with an Italian, and then with an American in Rome. I laid eyes on modern street art! I sat in small cafes and bustling food emporiums, and in both I heard only Italian being spoken. I paid my respects to some fine English writers. I discovered that Egypt isn’t the only place with pyramids. I didn’t expect much. I simply strolled. I asked questions. And for the first time, I listened to the nuanced answers.

I suppose we finally found a language in common, Rome and I. And when we finally conversed, our relationship deepened. My feelings went from ‘like’ to ‘love,’ in a mere couple of days.

And, if anyone can tell me where to find truly fantastic porchetta in Rome, I might just marry the place.

Where to Eat in Rome

(beware falling in love)

—

Old Favorites:

Saint’Eustachio il Caffe

Giolitti

Antico Forno Roscioli

Pizzarium

Roscioli

–

New Favorites:

Volpetti

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Trapizzino

Pizzeria Da Remo

Da Cesare

Testaccio Market

Mordi & Vai (food stand in Testaccio Market)

—

I participated in Eating Italy’s Rome food tour free of charge. All this means for you is that while I was paying rent back in San Francisco, someone else financed my existing gelato and cappuccino habits for one morning.

The post How to Fall in Love with Rome appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Me, too. Here are my freshest finds that reinvigorated the continent for me.

Where to Go, Stay, and Dine – Beyond the Obvious Destination

My Picks from Croatia, Slovenia, Spain, Italy, France

I promised myself I wouldn’t go to Europe again.
My heart yearns to return to Asia, all the time. I haven’t set foot in South America yet. The only place I have lived in and have seen a lot of is…Europe.

A traveler always has to decide — return to a place they already know they love, or see someplace new?

Yet with a strong dollar and a conference in one of my favorite places in the world, it wasn’t exactly hard to persuade me to reconsider. I was spending a month in Europe: some new places (Croatia, Slovenia) and some classics revisited (Spain, France, Italy.) Truth be told, my heart skips a beat every time I think about traveling in Europe. Though I know I need to venture out to see more of the world, it can be difficult to repeatedly resist Europe’s charms…

You all asked, and so I sat down to recap the best eats, stays, views, and experiences (that’s almost all the senses.) While I’ll be writing about many of these in more detail, I thought it might be helpful to have a list of everything altogether.

I’ve narrowed it down to a (*cough, short*) list.  It might seem like a random collection of recommendations, but I’m confident it will send some of you off to some of the best experiences in the world.
First off, here’s where I went:

Croatia: Dubrovnik, Mali Ston, Split, Hvar, Trogir, Plitvice, Krka, Zagreb
Slovenia: Ljubljana, Bled
Bosnia: Mostar
Spain: Málaga, Álora, Cordoba, Madrid, Barcelona, Girona, Costa Brava
France: Arles, Nice, Eze, Villefranche-sur-mer
Italy: Genova, Rome

Recommendations in each category are in that order. If there’s a specific restaurant that I found to be particularly good for that dish, it is listed as well.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out! These were my highlights though, and I’ve listed extensively where I would happily return to.

(And if you find yourself at any of these places, please do let me know! I would be so happy to hear about it. Each of these places holds a special place in my travel memories!)
HAPPY EATING + TRAVELING!

Eats

Oysters in Mali Ston (Croatia) (This type of unique “flat” oyster can only be found in one bay in the whole world)

Bota Sare (also locations in Dubrovnik, Split, and Zagreb though this is the original)

Vila Koruna (three is also a small inn above the restaurant)

Struckli (Croatia) (Just do it!)

Le Bistro Esplanade, Zagreb (try one savory with salt and one sweet with sugar!)

Lamb under the iron bell (Peka) (Croatia)

Konavoski Dvori, Ljuta, Croatia (just south of the Dubrovnik airport, a taxi can easily take you)

Dalmatian Ham/Pag Cheese (Croatia)

Burek (Bosnia, throughout the region) (You had me at meat pastry.)
Veal stew with chive dumplings and buckwheat (Slovenia)

Gostilna Murka in Bled (try any of their traditional menus!)

Pumpkin Seed Oil (Slovenia) (It’s ridiculously amazing, put it on everything.)
Scorpion Fish (If freshly caught – it looks scary but it’s really, really tasty. Also try octopus salad!) (Croatia)

Gariful – Hvar, Croatia

Pan com tomate (pan amb tomaquet) (Catalunya)
Cava y Pimientos con queso y más cava (Or actually, everything from this restaurant) (Catalunya)

El Xampanyet (Carrer de Montcada 22, Barcelona)

Botifarra (a traditional Catalunyan sausage)

Can Tosca (discovered on Devour Barcelona Four Tour)

El Xampayet (above) – had an incredible botifarra with crispy chickpeas here.

Gelateria Rocambolesc – Girona, Spain

It’s own separate listing, because it’s beautiful, inventive gelato from the geniuses (the Roca brothers) who bring us El Celler de Can Roca (just named the top restaurant in the world.)

Berenjenas con Miel de Caña (Spain)

Restaurante Sol del Rio – Álora, Andalucia, Spain

Salad with foie gras shavings, caramelized apple and pomegranate (Spain)

Restaurant El Pedro – Pals, Catalunya, Spain

Pasta alla Pesto Genovese

Trattoria Da Maria (Vico Testadoro, 14r, Genova, Italy)

Pasta in Rome: cacio e pepe, carbonara, and/or amatriciana (Rome)

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Testaccio, Rome, Italy

Suppli (Italy)

Trapizzino  – Rome, Italy

Wines of note:

• Dingač (red – Croatia)
• Cava (sparkling, Catalunya)
• Anything from Empordà (Catalunya)
• Rosé (France, Provence)
• Frascanti (white – Rome, Italy)

For the cocktail lover, here are a few favorite spirits I particularly enjoyed in their respective countries:

• Rakija (Croatia) (a grappa-type spirit, try the traditional travarica made with herbs.)
• Ratifia (Mediterranean Spain and France)
• Vermouth (all over…mmm)
• Tinto de verano (Spain)
• Gin and tonic (all the rage in Spain right now)
• Aperol Spritz (Italy)

Stays

I stayed in 25+ different spots over the course of several weeks. Here were the standouts:

Hotel Adriana (Hvar, Croatia)

Importanne Resort (Dubrovnik, Croatia)

Hotel Esplanade (Zagreb, Croatia)

TOC hostel (gorgeous hostel in Madrid, Spain)

El Cortijo Valverde (just outside of Álora, Spain)

Hotel Aigua Blava (Costa Brava, Spain)

Sant Pere del Bosc (Costa Brava, Spain)

L’Auberge du Pelerin et du Voyageur (Arles, France – though I hesitate to recommend it as the staff could use some help in the polite department…it’s a beautiful, affordable, central spot where there are limited options for solo travelers. And to balance out the scales, I made an amazing French friend there!)

Abbey Hostel Genova (Genoa, Italy)

The Beehive (Rome, Italy)

Views

Soaking up the atmosphere of a beautiful place is one of my favorite things about travel. It makes me feel alive, vibrant, and optimistic about our world.
Here are a few memorable views that come immediately to mind…

• Waterfront in Hvar
• Upper Lakes of Plitvice National Park
• Dubrovnik from the tram and city walls
• Lake Bled, Slovenia
• Côte d’Azur from Eze (Le Jardin Exotique)
• The Spanish countryside in Álora
• Barcelona from Passion Tower of La Sagrada Familia
• The alleyways of Andalucia (Córdoba pictured)
• Waking up in Costa Brava
• Coastal walk in Palafrugell, Cataluynya
• By the Onyar River in Girona, Catalunya (La Terra cafe)
• The small streets of Provence (Arles pictured)
• Looking up in Genoa, Italy

Experiences

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb (Croatia)

Climbing to the Mala Osojnica (viewpoint) of Lake Bled (Slovenia)

Swimming in Krka National Park (Croatia)

Old Bridge of Mostar (Bosnia)

Photo by Brad Bernard of MyWanderlist

Oyster farming in Mali Ston (Croatia)

Train from Ljubljana to Munich through the Austrian countryside (scenery galore!)

Zagreb coffee shops/Zagreb by night (especially with Secret Zagreb Walks)

Sitting riverside in Ljubljana (Slovenia)

Walking the El Caminito del Rey (Alora, Spain – just reopened!)

Flamenco show in Málaga (not touristy!) 

Wandering the Mesquita of Córdoba (magnificent)

Learning how to Casteller (Catalan human towers)

Yoga in the Sant Clotide Gardens (Lloret de Mar, Catalunya)

Small winery in Costa Brava (Finca Bell Lloc – they make (and raise) every product on site!)

Lunch in a traditional barraca on the beach in Costa Brava

Food Tour: Devour Barcelona

Saturday market in Arles

Discovering Testaccio + Food Tour: Eating Italy

Walking the city center of Rome by night (Best time to see Rome! Please be aware of your safety)

While this by no means encompasses my entire time in these countries, I hope it does give you a reason to dream — a reason to plan! — your next trip. Perhaps it will give you a few places or the best European travel experiences for your travel wish list. It’s also a preview of what awaits you, dear reader, in the coming months.

For now, whet your appetite over with my piece on European rail travel on Huffington Post Travel.

After all, it’s the experiences that make a place and the stories that shape the experience…

Where do you most look forward to reading about? 

Disclaimer: As a travel writer, I am often invited to experience destinations, hotels, restaurants, or tours. I only say ‘yes’ to the ones that truly interest me, and I only share those which I wholeheartedly recommend. I also pay for the majority of my travel out of my own pocket, and I so appreciate the partners who make it possible for me to bring you a wider range of experiences here on the blog.

*Some posts on this site contain affiliate links.  If you purchase something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for supporting the site!

The post European Experiences for the Traveler Who Has “Done” Europe appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Venice in Black and White Photos

Who’s ready to hop the next plane to Italy?

See >> Paris in Black and White
>> Rome in Black and White
>> Barcelona in Black and White

Which city do you think looks best in black and white?  

Comment below and your choice could be featured next!

The post Venice in Black and White appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

The post Rome in Black + White appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.