2015 has been a year of travel highs and lows, much like life. As I reflect on some of the best moments and destinations of the year, Croatia stands out to me. The country is very much on the rise, and the people are some of the kindest, proudest, and most generous I’ve encountered. The story below offers a glimpse of that. Road tripping Croatia is ideal. Not to mention how beautiful it is…
For these reasons, a road-trip in Croatia is my top recommendation for spring travel in 2016.

This story is brought to you in partnership with Expedia.com. All words, images, and opinions are expressly my own.
—-
“Welcome to Croatia!” he exclaimed at me, handing me of glass of unidentified liquid, moments after arriving at the Dubrovnik airport.

Rakija, or rakia, was my official introduction to Croatia, to the Balkans. Clear and served in what appeared to be a shot glass, I had no idea what it was — but it was presented with such warm enthusiasm that I thought to myself, I’ve got to have some of that.

The plan was to see Croatia by train with our Eurail passes. When I found out that we couldn’t get more than one train to the places we wanted to visit, the plan changed (as it usually does.)

So we picked up our car and drove just south. Headed for the small town of Ljuta, it was more than easy to fall in love with what I saw next.
“More rakija?” The woman in traditional dress approaches me with a tray. Sure, I’ve had the clear one, but what about the golden on, or ooooh that deep purple one looks lovely!

Since we’re driving, I have to learn to politely decline — but that doesn’t stop the rakija from being offered. And the deliciousness did not stop there.

Lamb made ‘under the iron bell,’ a delicacy if I’ve ever had one. Restaurant Konavoski Dvori is ten minutes from the Dubrovnik airport.

In Dubrovnik we sit under umbrellas, beside stone walls. We sip coffee, then wine, then more coffee. We walk the city walls. We learn about a small village called Mali Ston, with the best oysters, nay, the best food Croatia has to offer. This may be the only reason I ever left Dubrovnik at all.

Dubrovnik from the old city walls.

We arrive in Mali Ston to meet Petar, brother to the man we met in Dubrovnik, who insists we go oyster farming with family.

“My family is very conflicted,” he tells me, with a seriousness that grabs me. “You see, my father comes from the land and he makes Dalmatian ham, whereas my mother comes from the sea and harvests Croatian oysters. Very big conflict.”

This is the best kind of family drama I’ve ever heard of.

So Petar takes us on the family boat, out onto the bay. He pulls a line of three-year old oysters straight from the sea, and within minutes I have the freshest food I think I’ve ever eaten in my hands. To wash it down? Some wine, of course, but not before…yes, more rakija.

Bota Sare is the name of the family restaurant where these oysters are served.

Mali Ston oyster harvest

Fresh as it gets!

Rakija comes in many forms, depending on the region but also the family that makes it. Most are infused with herbs and called travarika, and may have as many as 150 different herbs flavoring it. Each concoction is special to the family recipe, and often made at home.

View from Hotel Adriana, Hvar, Croatia

I traveled next to the coast, where I spent time in Split before heading to the island of Hvar.

It turns out April is the perfect time to be in Hvar — not too chilly, but not yet filled with hordes on summer holiday. We pulled into the main port of the old town, and I settled into this room with a view, one of the most memorable of all my travels. As I basked in the sunshine with my head out of the window, I nodded and gave a quick ‘”cheers.” What with? What else! Rakija strikes again. (It was also served at the luscious breakfast buffet each morning.)

As I made my way next to Plitvice National Park I found myself in one of the most beautiful parts of the country, barely hanging on after the onset of a terrible flu. I sought some sort of medicine so that I could continue on, not miss out on any of the things I had come to see. Or I dragged on, and when I asked about my lackluster energy I told the truth. I was quite sick. Croatian hospitality struck again.

“You know, the answer is simple,” the man said to me.

“Great! What is it?”

“Rakija!”

I thought it was some kind ofa= cruel joke. I later learned that in Croatia rakija is viewed as a bit of a cure-all, thought to ease muscle pain and cure sour stomachs. From then on, it was a bit of rakija every time I felt ill. (And I thought the welcome drinks were generous!)

Walking in Plitvice National Park

I felt better just in time to make it up to our final stop, the capital city of Zagreb. I sat in cafes, strolled the wide streets, took secret walks. Still, perhaps my favorite moment in this trip to Croatia was as I was getting ready to catch my train. I was at the bar of the historic Hotel Esplanade, a glamorous yet comfortable place that was originally built for passengers of the Orient Express.

“Where else are you going in Croatia?” the bartender asked me, after I told him just how much I’d love discovering his country.

“I’m afraid this is it. I’m on my way to Slovenia. My train leaves in an hour.”

“Oh. Well, if you must go, there is only one way to say goodbye,” he smiled. He reached under the bar. I smiled even bigger as I saw him pull up a bottle of…rakija.”My grandmother’s recipe.” He poured with pride, and I drank with appreciation. It may have been my first visit to Croatia, but what started with rakija had ended with rakija. I knew it was just the beginning.

Hotel Esplanade bar, and rakija in all its glory.

Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb

The post Road Tripping Croatia appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Me, too. Here are my freshest finds that reinvigorated the continent for me.

Where to Go, Stay, and Dine – Beyond the Obvious Destination

My Picks from Croatia, Slovenia, Spain, Italy, France

I promised myself I wouldn’t go to Europe again.
My heart yearns to return to Asia, all the time. I haven’t set foot in South America yet. The only place I have lived in and have seen a lot of is…Europe.

A traveler always has to decide — return to a place they already know they love, or see someplace new?

Yet with a strong dollar and a conference in one of my favorite places in the world, it wasn’t exactly hard to persuade me to reconsider. I was spending a month in Europe: some new places (Croatia, Slovenia) and some classics revisited (Spain, France, Italy.) Truth be told, my heart skips a beat every time I think about traveling in Europe. Though I know I need to venture out to see more of the world, it can be difficult to repeatedly resist Europe’s charms…

You all asked, and so I sat down to recap the best eats, stays, views, and experiences (that’s almost all the senses.) While I’ll be writing about many of these in more detail, I thought it might be helpful to have a list of everything altogether.

I’ve narrowed it down to a (*cough, short*) list.  It might seem like a random collection of recommendations, but I’m confident it will send some of you off to some of the best experiences in the world.
First off, here’s where I went:

Croatia: Dubrovnik, Mali Ston, Split, Hvar, Trogir, Plitvice, Krka, Zagreb
Slovenia: Ljubljana, Bled
Bosnia: Mostar
Spain: Málaga, Álora, Cordoba, Madrid, Barcelona, Girona, Costa Brava
France: Arles, Nice, Eze, Villefranche-sur-mer
Italy: Genova, Rome

Recommendations in each category are in that order. If there’s a specific restaurant that I found to be particularly good for that dish, it is listed as well.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out! These were my highlights though, and I’ve listed extensively where I would happily return to.

(And if you find yourself at any of these places, please do let me know! I would be so happy to hear about it. Each of these places holds a special place in my travel memories!)
HAPPY EATING + TRAVELING!

Eats

Oysters in Mali Ston (Croatia) (This type of unique “flat” oyster can only be found in one bay in the whole world)

Bota Sare (also locations in Dubrovnik, Split, and Zagreb though this is the original)

Vila Koruna (three is also a small inn above the restaurant)

Struckli (Croatia) (Just do it!)

Le Bistro Esplanade, Zagreb (try one savory with salt and one sweet with sugar!)

Lamb under the iron bell (Peka) (Croatia)

Konavoski Dvori, Ljuta, Croatia (just south of the Dubrovnik airport, a taxi can easily take you)

Dalmatian Ham/Pag Cheese (Croatia)

Burek (Bosnia, throughout the region) (You had me at meat pastry.)
Veal stew with chive dumplings and buckwheat (Slovenia)

Gostilna Murka in Bled (try any of their traditional menus!)

Pumpkin Seed Oil (Slovenia) (It’s ridiculously amazing, put it on everything.)
Scorpion Fish (If freshly caught – it looks scary but it’s really, really tasty. Also try octopus salad!) (Croatia)

Gariful – Hvar, Croatia

Pan com tomate (pan amb tomaquet) (Catalunya)
Cava y Pimientos con queso y más cava (Or actually, everything from this restaurant) (Catalunya)

El Xampanyet (Carrer de Montcada 22, Barcelona)

Botifarra (a traditional Catalunyan sausage)

Can Tosca (discovered on Devour Barcelona Four Tour)

El Xampayet (above) – had an incredible botifarra with crispy chickpeas here.

Gelateria Rocambolesc – Girona, Spain

It’s own separate listing, because it’s beautiful, inventive gelato from the geniuses (the Roca brothers) who bring us El Celler de Can Roca (just named the top restaurant in the world.)

Berenjenas con Miel de Caña (Spain)

Restaurante Sol del Rio – Álora, Andalucia, Spain

Salad with foie gras shavings, caramelized apple and pomegranate (Spain)

Restaurant El Pedro – Pals, Catalunya, Spain

Pasta alla Pesto Genovese

Trattoria Da Maria (Vico Testadoro, 14r, Genova, Italy)

Pasta in Rome: cacio e pepe, carbonara, and/or amatriciana (Rome)

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Testaccio, Rome, Italy

Suppli (Italy)

Trapizzino  – Rome, Italy

Wines of note:

• Dingač (red – Croatia)
• Cava (sparkling, Catalunya)
• Anything from Empordà (Catalunya)
• Rosé (France, Provence)
• Frascanti (white – Rome, Italy)

For the cocktail lover, here are a few favorite spirits I particularly enjoyed in their respective countries:

• Rakija (Croatia) (a grappa-type spirit, try the traditional travarica made with herbs.)
• Ratifia (Mediterranean Spain and France)
• Vermouth (all over…mmm)
• Tinto de verano (Spain)
• Gin and tonic (all the rage in Spain right now)
• Aperol Spritz (Italy)

Stays

I stayed in 25+ different spots over the course of several weeks. Here were the standouts:

Hotel Adriana (Hvar, Croatia)

Importanne Resort (Dubrovnik, Croatia)

Hotel Esplanade (Zagreb, Croatia)

TOC hostel (gorgeous hostel in Madrid, Spain)

El Cortijo Valverde (just outside of Álora, Spain)

Hotel Aigua Blava (Costa Brava, Spain)

Sant Pere del Bosc (Costa Brava, Spain)

L’Auberge du Pelerin et du Voyageur (Arles, France – though I hesitate to recommend it as the staff could use some help in the polite department…it’s a beautiful, affordable, central spot where there are limited options for solo travelers. And to balance out the scales, I made an amazing French friend there!)

Abbey Hostel Genova (Genoa, Italy)

The Beehive (Rome, Italy)

Views

Soaking up the atmosphere of a beautiful place is one of my favorite things about travel. It makes me feel alive, vibrant, and optimistic about our world.
Here are a few memorable views that come immediately to mind…

• Waterfront in Hvar
• Upper Lakes of Plitvice National Park
• Dubrovnik from the tram and city walls
• Lake Bled, Slovenia
• Côte d’Azur from Eze (Le Jardin Exotique)
• The Spanish countryside in Álora
• Barcelona from Passion Tower of La Sagrada Familia
• The alleyways of Andalucia (Córdoba pictured)
• Waking up in Costa Brava
• Coastal walk in Palafrugell, Cataluynya
• By the Onyar River in Girona, Catalunya (La Terra cafe)
• The small streets of Provence (Arles pictured)
• Looking up in Genoa, Italy

Experiences

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb (Croatia)

Climbing to the Mala Osojnica (viewpoint) of Lake Bled (Slovenia)

Swimming in Krka National Park (Croatia)

Old Bridge of Mostar (Bosnia)

Photo by Brad Bernard of MyWanderlist

Oyster farming in Mali Ston (Croatia)

Train from Ljubljana to Munich through the Austrian countryside (scenery galore!)

Zagreb coffee shops/Zagreb by night (especially with Secret Zagreb Walks)

Sitting riverside in Ljubljana (Slovenia)

Walking the El Caminito del Rey (Alora, Spain – just reopened!)

Flamenco show in Málaga (not touristy!) 

Wandering the Mesquita of Córdoba (magnificent)

Learning how to Casteller (Catalan human towers)

Yoga in the Sant Clotide Gardens (Lloret de Mar, Catalunya)

Small winery in Costa Brava (Finca Bell Lloc – they make (and raise) every product on site!)

Lunch in a traditional barraca on the beach in Costa Brava

Food Tour: Devour Barcelona

Saturday market in Arles

Discovering Testaccio + Food Tour: Eating Italy

Walking the city center of Rome by night (Best time to see Rome! Please be aware of your safety)

While this by no means encompasses my entire time in these countries, I hope it does give you a reason to dream — a reason to plan! — your next trip. Perhaps it will give you a few places or the best European travel experiences for your travel wish list. It’s also a preview of what awaits you, dear reader, in the coming months.

For now, whet your appetite over with my piece on European rail travel on Huffington Post Travel.

After all, it’s the experiences that make a place and the stories that shape the experience…

Where do you most look forward to reading about? 

Disclaimer: As a travel writer, I am often invited to experience destinations, hotels, restaurants, or tours. I only say ‘yes’ to the ones that truly interest me, and I only share those which I wholeheartedly recommend. I also pay for the majority of my travel out of my own pocket, and I so appreciate the partners who make it possible for me to bring you a wider range of experiences here on the blog.

*Some posts on this site contain affiliate links.  If you purchase something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for supporting the site!

The post European Experiences for the Traveler Who Has “Done” Europe appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.