Activities to Enjoy in Kona + on the Kohala Coast

Read on for the top experiences and my tips for the Kona side of the island

Although travel is such a big part of my life now, like many of us, I didn’t grow up traveling often. Hawaii was the one place I returned to repeatedly as a child. I was lucky enough to grow up spending my October break from school exploring the Big Island’s seas, parks, and beaches.

So I jumped at the recent chance to return with Fairmont Orchid, a resort perched toward the northern tip of the island on the stunning Kohala Coast. I had the chance to experience the beaches and the stunning coastline just off of the property and revisit a few Kona-side locations — longtime favorite places that I’ll share with you here.

If you’re planning a trip to Hawaii’s Big Island, you’ll fly into the Kona International Airport, and, more likely than not, you’ll be staying somewhere along the western or Kona coast side, also known as the “dry side” of the island. 

Here are the places to know about in and around Kona, and my top things to do in Kona and the Kohala Coast. Depending upon your desired daily pace, you can mix and match day and night activities to create your own one-week itinerary for the Big Island.

Kailua-Kona

This is the main town on the Big Island, and where you’ll find most of the island’s historic buildings including King Kamehameha’s former home — as well as most of the shopping. It’s the center of activity and commerce for the island, including the airport you arrived in.

The weather here is dry and sunny most days of the year, and there are some especially charming parts of Kailua-Kona, especially along the coast. I love taking a drive from the center of town along Ali’i Drive, which winds along Kailua Bay. Driving south you’ll hit Keauhou, which I’ll mention more about below.

The Kohala Coast

Heading north from Kona you’ll hit an open stretch of highway until you start seeing turnoffs to the beaches and resorts. Once you see signs for Anaehoomalu Bay, you’ve reached the beautiful Kohala Coast. Several resorts, as well as Waikoloa Village, call this area home.

If you’re staying here you can also expect mostly sunny days, and you’ll have access to some of the best beaches on the island. I recommend having a car regardless, but you’ll need one if the Kohala Coast is your base during your stay.

Things to Do in Kona and Kohala

on the Kona side of the Big Island

Ocean Adventures

Snorkeling and/or Scuba Diving

A huge portion of the Big Island’s beauty lies under the water’s surface. No matter your comfort level with the ocean or with wildlife encounters, there is a range of underwater experiences to suit all.

Manta Ray Night Snorkel

I love scuba diving, but I am terrified of any night dive/swim/snorkel. I finally had the chance to snorkel with the mantas in Keahou Bay, and let me just say: 1) they took care of everything so well that I wasn’t even scared and 2) it was one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve had in the ocean (or on land.)

Whether it comforts or annoys you that you’ll be surrounded by dozens of other people while you snorkel with them, it doesn’t matter much because you’re head in the sea, relaxing and drifting above a light that attracts the phytoplankton they eat. I went with SeaQuest and found it to be a fantastic operation all around.

Swimming with Sea Turtles

One of the most magical creatures you can see in the Kona waters is the honu, or sea turtle. They are quite present and chances are that you’ll see one if you snorkel multiple times during your trip. (Please do not disturb them on land or sea — keep your distance and show some respect.)

That said, you can certainly increase your chances by choosing your snorkeling site accordingly. I went in the ocean every morning (snorkeling is always best in the morning!) while staying at the Fairmont Orchid, and the bay off of the resort is one of the best spots I’ve ever found…I saw them every single time.

Snorkeling for Beginners and/or Kids

Another good spot to spot sea turtles is also one of the most family-friendly snorkel sites by Kona. Although it can get crowded due to its popularity and central location, Kahalu’u Beach Park is a sheltered cove with easy entry/exit similar to the Fairmont beach option. These calmer waters tend to attract both the turtles and the newer snorkelers (plus tons of fish!)

Kona by Boat

By far my favorite way to experience the Kona area and Kohala Coast is from the water and on a boat. Here are my top recommendations for how to do so:

Visit Kealakekua Bay

Located south of Kona and just after Keahou, Kealakekua Bay is one of the most beautiful spots on the Kona coast. Known to some as Captain Cook’s Bay for the presence of the Captain Cook monument there (it’s where he was killed,) it’s most notably a marine reserve and one of the best spots to snorkel on the island.

The last time I visited I drove and parked at the southern side of the bay, bringing my own gear (rented from Boss Frog’s in downtown Kona) and snorkeling along the water’s edge. I don’t recommend this route unless you favor ocean exploration and are an experienced swimmer, but it can be done without guidance.

For most of my visits, I opt for renting a kayak or taking a boat trip to the bay. Kealakekua is the focus of the Fairwind II snorkel trip, so you’ll see it if you book with them.

Go Surfing and/or Boogie Boarding

Until I get better at surfing someday, boogie boarding or even body surfing is my wave action of choice. Always be aware of surf conditions before entering the water, and if you’re hesitant about safety better to stay onshore than be swept away.

I recommend purchasing an inexpensive boogie board if your accommodation doesn’t have any, and you plan on riding waves for more than a few days as it often won’t cost much more than a rental would. (But it depends on the length of your stay.)

Adventures on Land

Most of the land-based adventures you’ll want to seek will be somewhat of a drive from Kona the west side of the Big Island. Still, there are a few that are closer that I recommend:

Visit a Kona Coffee Farm

If you’re a coffee connoisseur or enthusiast, it’s worth seeking out Kona coffee — grown in the rich volcanic soil and known worldwide for its quality. Take it one step further and you can visit a coffee farm to learn about and see the production process.

Find a Farmer’s Market

Since I grew up enjoying the Kona Costco as my main food stop, this is a recent find for me. Tropical fruits, local, handcrafted products, and more await. The main Kona Farmers Market runs Wednesday to Sunday from 7 am to 4 pm, but here’s a list of all the farmers markets on the island.

If you’re interested in exploring the island by land rather than sea, you’ll want to rent a car and check out the spots below. All are day-trippable from the Kona and Kohala coasts, but some are longer drives than others.

Explore the Towns of Waimea and Hawi

Waimea and Hawi are both a short drive from the Kohala Coast and offer a bit more of a local, small-town feel than Kona or Hilo. In Waimea, be sure to check out Arvo for coffee, Pau for amazing breakfast burritos or pizza, and Hawaiian Style Cafe for their loco moco and haupia pancakes — both of which will give you a taste of local Hawaiian flavor on a huge scale (the pancakes are seriously the largest ones I’ve ever seen.)

Very Worthwhile Big Island Day Trips

(the top three are musts for me)

Hawaiian Cultural Experiences

Place of Refuge / Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

This is my favorite place to go on the island to connect with the history and culture of Hawaii. The Place of Refuge provided a place for Hawaiians to seek safety and forgiveness from a priest when fleeing a crime. Located just south of Kealakekua Bay, making it a great combination activity to do both in one day.

Hula Lessons

It’s one thing to admire hula at a luau, and another to try dancing it yourself! I had the best time learning about the beautiful Hawaiian form of storytelling and movement as a part of my stay at Fairmont Orchid (reserve in advance.) It seems that most hula lessons for the public are given at hotels and resorts

Waikoloa Petroglyphs

This was another discovery on my most recent trip, as it was very close to where I stayed. Even though you have to walk through a resort to get to them, connecting with the centuries-old art carved into the rock is humbling. Get there via a short stroll from the Waikoloa Hotel (near Kings’ Shops.)

Spa/Relaxation

Spa Without Walls

In my ideal world, every spa would share this concept — open-air massage with the sound of waterfalls or the ocean, the touch of a warm sea breeze, and the shade of a tropical tree.

Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel, it’s worth seeking a relaxing treatment at the Fairmont Orchid spa (treat yourself.) Their pool and hammocks are also lovely for relaxing.

Standup Paddle Board Yoga on the Ocean

I hadn’t been on a SUP in the ocean before, and I certainly hadn’t done yoga on one! This was one of my favorite new experiences on the Big Island.

It was a standard vinyasa yoga class in the most non-standard location. You take a board from the shore out to the shallow bay at the Fairmont Orchid just as the sun is rising. And even though I’m a seasoned yogi who practices regularly, I still managed to fall in the water — but I didn’t mind! It was wonderful to practice in such a peaceful place where my balance was still challenged (and I could see fish swimming underneath my feet the whole time!)

Beach Time

Whether you want a private beach cabana or simply want your toes in the sand, you can’t beat beach time on the Big Island. Most of the best beaches on the Kona side — see below for my favorites!

P.S. Know Your Public Beach Rights

Most of the Big Island’s best beaches can be found on the same stretch of the Kohala Coast. One thing I wish I had realized earlier is that many of the top resorts have to allow public beach access and free parking to a limited number of visitors per day. This means you can enjoy some of the best beaches right on luxury resort properties without paying the hundreds (or thousands) per night to stay there.

A few to note include the Mauna Kea Beach (Kauna’oa) at the Mauna Kea Resort, Kikaua Beach at Kukio Golf Resort, and Kukio Beach at the Four Seasons Hualalai. Simply ask for public beach access at the gated areas before arrival. There is a limit on the number of daily visitors, so your best bet is to arrive as early as possible in the day.

Big Island Beaches >> Kona side

Makalawena Beach

This is my favorite beach in the world. Although I will often take a boat here, you can also access it by land. You have to hike for a bit over lava rock (I recommend doing this in the early morning — much more pleasant,) but the reward is fewer crowds — and one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (in my humble opinion.)

How to find it: the entrance to it is located between mile markers 90 and 91. If you have trouble finding it by map, look for Kekaha Kai State Park, which it is a part of. Head to nearby Kua Bay (also a great beach) if you’d like easier access. Both are just north of Kona International Airport.

Beach 69

Another somewhat hidden local favorite, Beach 69 (named so for its location near the mile marker, of course) aka Waialea Bay is all-around wonderful. I think it’s best for snorkeling and shade, naturally provided during most of the day by the many trees on the beach.

Kauna’ona Beach

Growing up this was just the Mauna Kea beach to me as it is directly in front of the Mauna Kea Beach Resort (a beautiful hotel.) What most people don’t realize is that there is public parking (although limited) at the hotel for access to this beautiful beach. It’s a lot like Hapuna but on a smaller scale.

Hapuna Beach

This is the long and wide white sand beach of your Hawaii dreams. Although it is home to resort traffic and can get crowded, its beauty and convenience make it a draw — particularly so for swimmers, boogie boarders, and families.

Anaehoomalu Bay

Known to many as simply ‘A Bay,’ Anaehoomalu is a favorite for windsurfing and sunsets.

If you’re looking for more beach information, or simply any information at all to be frank — I recommend the latest version of this guidebook which I have been using for 20+ years (the best.)

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I hope this gives you the guidance you seek for the most excellent trip to Hawaii’s Kohala Coast and Kailua-Kona. Let me know which part you love most! Mahalo <3

UPDATED: March 2023. Disclaimer: One of my many visits to the Big Island was in collaboration with the Fairmont Orchid. All opinions and destination recommendations come from decades of trips and are distinctly my own.

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Whitefish, Montana draws many visitors to its popular ski resort and for its proximity to the stunning Glacier National Park, and rightfully so. It is also a destination in its own right — a welcoming and wonderful small town with bold mountain landscapes right at its doorstep.

For years I’ve felt drawn to Montana. The town of Whitefish is surprisingly well-known given its size; I think that has something to do with its feel both as a chic resort village and hidden mountain escape. With its community feel, fresh mountain air, and a gem of a culinary scene, Whitefish was a great home base for my first stay in the state.

Whether you’re staying there to visit the park or simply to enjoy the town and surrounds itself, there is lots to love about this beautiful part of America. Here is an overview of the top things to do in Whitefish:

Get Outside: Hiking, Biking, and More In Whitefish

Whitefish Trail

With 10+ trailheads and 42 miles of natural surface to walk, bike, or hike on right next to town, there are plenty of scenic views and forested paths to keep any nature-lover happy. Some of the most popular hikes include Lion Mountain and Swift Creek. Whitefish Trail is runner, dog, horse, and kid-friendly.

You find all the trailheads and a trail map here.

Whitefish Bike Retreat

Located just outside town, the Whitefish Bike Retreat is a lodge, hub, and training center created especially for bikers. As someone who had never been on a mountain bike before, I headed out here to learn some new skills and try out some of the nearby trails.

Whether you’re going for the day, camping overnight, or staying at the lodge — or even just popping in for a coffee or a beer during your ride — you’ll find some of the friendliest faces (including cute dogs!) to welcome you. They’re uniquely equipped to help with any and all biking needs, so it’s a good spot to know of if you plan on doing any mountain biking while in town. I highly recommend this spot!

Whitefish Lake

The glacial lake bearing the same name as the town is a favorite spot for visitors and locals alike. In the summer you can lounge in the sun or in shaded areas along the water, or, if you prefer to be active, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and take to the lake. There is also a public boat launch and designated areas for swimming.

Viking Creek Trail

An interpretive trail that’s great for families, you can expect educational signage and a newly groomed trail that feels safe and easy to walk on but fully immersed in the wetlands nature. Look out for the bear claw marks on some of the trees! With accessibility for all visitors, this is one of the best mellow outdoor things to do in Whitefish. It’s also free to access.

Winter Activities vs. Summer Activities

There’s also skiing of course, in the wintertime. Whitefish Mountain Resort is the biggest draw. In the summer you can also seek out mountain biking, hiking, and zip-lining here.

Golfing, rock climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and even skydiving are all ways to get out into the Great Outdoors in and around Whitefish, depending on the weather and your personal thirst for and/or comfort level with adventure.

Side note: if it’s raining, or you don’t want to be outside, check out the Whitefish Theatre Company. They put on excellent productions!

Visit Glacier National Park (A Must)

Going-to-the-Sun Road

The famous Going-to-the-Sun Road is a fantastic way to easily see many of the highlights of the park. Parts of the path are open year-round, but you will want to plan and time your visit based on who the road is open to. At times it’s open to just bikers (as it was during my visit,) and not to motorized vehicles. This is largely dependent on the weather conditions, so be sure to check their website for updates ahead of your trip. Here’s a general overview of the seasonal access in the park:

Open Year-Round: The road from West Glacier to Lake McDonald Lodge

Open to Bikes and Pedestrians Only: Shoulder season (usually May/October)

Open to Cars: Summer (June-Aug/Sept.)

You can rent a car and drive on the road during the summer months. If you’re hiking or biking, you can grab the Whitefish Shuttle from town. They go both to Glacier National Park and to the Whitefish Trailheads mentioned above.

I recommend taking advantage of the small period when the Going-to-the-Sun Road is open to bikes and pedestrians only. Although you’ll have to power your own transportation, you can see more of the park in the same amount of time. While it’s possible you may encounter less-than-favorable weather, you’ll avoid most of the crowds. (Highly recommended.)

You can check out current information, as well as the dates of past openings and closings, on the official Glacier National Park Going-to-the-Sun information page.

And if you’re looking for a guide specific to Glacier National Park (as well as Banff and Jasper) I recommend this one.

Taste the Local Brews and Spirits

Big Sky Brews Cruise

I was able to visit two fantastic local beer spots — Great Northern Brewery and Bonsai Brewing Project — with the help of this great tour (and no need to worry about drinking and driving!)

Spotted Bear Spirits

I loved the cocktails I tasted from this local spirits producer. You can visit their distillery, which uses local and organic botanicals, and try their seasonal cocktail menu, which reflects the changing seasons of Glacier County.

Partake in Some Whitefish Wellness

Yoga at Yoga Hive

I loved the class I took with Yoga Hive Montana, which has locations in downtown Whitefish and nearby Kalispell. Even better are their yoga classes at Whitefish Lodge (if offered.) You can do yoga with a view of the lake and a mimosa afterward!

Himalayan salt treatments at SaltBox

I live for my Himalayan salt lamp at home, so it was a treat to experience the new SaltBox in downtown Whitefish. You can relax in their salt rooms, in which microparticles of salt enable dry salt therapy that can help with breathing, skin, sleep, and overall wellness. They also have an infrared sauna (perfect for cold days or after long hikes.)

Dine Out, Montana Style

The Best Whitefish Restaurants

I’ve got an upcoming post with more details about where to eat in Whitefish.

For now, restaurant highlights include:

How to Get to Whitefish, MT

Whitefish, MT’s closest airport is Glacier Park International, which is a short 15-minute drive to downtown. Several direct flights are available (although some are seasonal,) ranging from Seattle and Denver to Los Angeles and Atlanta. For my Bay Area folks, there is seasonal direct service from OAK on Allegiant, but the trip from SFO with a quick stop in Denver is fine, too. The aforementioned Whitefish Shuttle does airport drop-offs/pick-ups to get you into town. If you fancy taking the train, Amtrak has a station right in the heart of Whitefish. Or, I hear the drive into town (from nearby states) is spectacular!

Where to Stay in Whitefish

The well-established Lodge at Whitefish Lake is popular and so lovely, but so are many of the smaller B&Bs and apartments in town. Here are the best of them:

Whether you’re planning a trip and looking for things to do in Whitefish MT or you’re now thinking about going…I hope this sets you up to experience the best of the area! Let me know if I can help with any further questions before or during your trip.

*My trip was made possible with the help of Explore Whitefish, but all opinions and recommendations are completely my own.

Cheers!

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Some people go to Nashville for the music. Or so I hear.

This second visit to Music City, however, was for me all about the food. My first time passing through, I had had my first mouth-burning bite of hot chicken, I sampled a meat-and-three, and then cooled said mouth off with a Jeni’s ice cream in Hillsboro Village (also, Pancake Pantry…hello!)

So one could say I whet my appetite for Nashville on that quick stop through a few years ago. When I found myself in Memphis this year, not a whole lot could stop me from going back — fork and knife in hand — for more.

From nights out in East Nashville to my first honky-tonk experience (ok, maybe it was also a little about the music,) to a Nashville Eats food tour, to restaurants and some of the best places to eat in Nashville, plus multiple stops at the same barbecue joint…it’s incredible how much you can learn about a city’s food scene in just a handful of days and 3-5 daily meals!

So, what are the classic must-haves for a foodie weekend in Nashville?

Here’s the list of the best places to eat in Nashville I wish someone had given me before I arrived.

Where to Eat in Nashville

A Nashville Food Guide (Best Suited for a Weekend)

Martin’s Bar-B-Que 

410 4th Ave S (Peabody)

Why It’s Cool: One look at their BBQ pits (you can ask to take a peek,) and you’ll understand why this place is a legendary spot for Tennessee barbecue. The best BBQ in Nashville!

What To Get: Ribs, of course! Their wings were also excellent. Or get a sampler platter so you don’t have to choose. Ask for a side of all the sauces to taste them all.

The 404 Kitchen

404 12th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: A delicious + fresh menu with unique items like scallop toast and rabbit. One of the best restaurants in downtown Nashville.

What To Get: The house-made burrata, chilled lamb salad, cornbread.

Rolf & Daughters

410 4th Ave S (Peabody)

Why It’s Cool: Widely acclaimed — this was probably the most recommended/highly rated restaurant recommended to me.

What To Get: Sourdough with seaweed butter, pasta, a cocktail!

Butcher & Bee

902 Main S

Why It’s Cool: If you’ve reached your breaking point for smoked meats and heavy sides and need some veggies, this seasonal spot is a welcome respite from your typical Southern eats.

What To Get: Whipped feta, shakshuka, avocado crispy rice.

Kitchen Notes

250 5th Avenue S

Why It’s Cool: Nashville food writer and cookbook author Jennifer Justus calls this one of the best biscuits in the city.

What To Get: Buttermilk biscuits with butter and jam!

Pancake Pantry

1796 21st Ave S

Why It’s Cool: If you love breakfast (and who doesn’t,) save room for this epic pancake spot with menu items like cornmeal pancakes cooked with green chilis or sweet potato pancakes. 

What To Get: Classic or crazy pancakes as suits your taste/mood that day. Add bacon at your own risk.

Mas Tacos Por Favor

732 McFerrin Ave

Why It’s Cool: Never one to search for Mexican food outside of California, Texas, or Mexico, these tacos still rock and should be enjoyed no matter your taco location snobbery.

What To Get: Tacos! (Duh.) Though I also hear rave reviews for their chicken tortilla soup and elote.

Las Paletas 

2911 12th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: It’s literally cool to get one of these flavorful and fresh popsicles, especially on a hot day.

What To Get: The classic and more inventive flavors (I got avocado) seem to all be a hit. Take your popsicle to the park across the street if the mood strikes you!

The Treehouse Restaurant Nashville

1011 Clearview Ave

Why It’s Cool: You won’t find this at the top of most Nashville food lists, but for me (and my friends) this was a highlight of all the places we ate at in Nashville. The food here is fantastic — and the atmosphere is fun, relaxed, and inviting. They also serve late night (until 1am.)

What To Get: We loved the beef tartare and the ramp noodles most!

Lockeland Table

1520 Woodland St

Why It’s Cool: Another East Nashville favorite, it feels like a true neighborhood spot yet the place is chic and food and drink is delicious. Go for the happy hour (4-6pm,) which is actually a community hour supporting a local design center.

What To Get: Their wood-fired pizzas are a highlight. In the summer, the one with peaches on top was divine.

Rosemary

1102 Forrest Ave

Why It’s Cool: A fantastic East Nashville cocktail spot with a fun ambiance and likely a chill crowd.

What To Get: One of the house cocktails. Sit on the back patio!

Husk

37 Rutledge St

Why It’s Cool: Well, I’ve only been to the location in Charleston, but it’s still one of my favorite dining experiences. Expect inventive dishes with heirloom Southern ingredients.

What To Get: A reservation. Then anything from the menu.

Frothy Monkey Coffeehouse

235 5th Ave N

Why It’s Cool: Full of freelancers and cappuccino sippers, it’s a local favorite for a reason and they serve brunch until 5pm (enough said.)

What To Get: Choose from a creative coffee menu and delicious breakfast and sandwich options.

Five Daughters Bakery

1110 Caruthers Ave (12th S); 1900 Eastland Ave (East Nashville)

Why It’s Cool: Cute design and to-die-for donuts.

What To Get: Maple bacon (mmm.)

CREMA

15 Hermitage Ave

Why It’s Cool: The best coffee I had in Nashville.

What To Get:Their coffee soda is unique, espresso is well-made, and the chai is quite good as well (if you’re feeling over-caffeinated!)

Woolworth on 5th

221 5th Ave

Why It’s Cool: A classic diner serving classic Southern eats with a large portion of history. This is where 1960s counter sit-ins of the civil rights movement took place.

What To Get: I loved their mac ‘n’ cheese and black-eyed peas. Many of the menu items have a story — so ask as you go!

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken

2222 8th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: It’s hot chicken. Take fried chicken, add cayenne pepper. Taste it, have water nearby, and see why the craze exists.

What To Get: Choose your spice level and your sides, buckle up, and get ready for a spicy ride.

Prince’s Hot Chicken

5814 Nolensville Pike; 123 Ewing Dr #3

Why It’s Cool: The O.G. hot chicken spot. Eat it and compare, because everyone is going to ask you to choose a favorite.

What To Get: Choose from mild, medium, hot, and extra hot (if you dare.)

Robert’s Western World

902 Main Street

Why It’s Cool: my reluctant adventure into honky tonks began here. I was surprised and delighted, and I’ll bet you would be too.

What To Get: they serve a $5 PBR and baloney sandwich with chips if you’re hungry…! Sip your drink of choice and soak up the atmosphere.

Other Highly Recommended Nashville Restaurants — on my list for next time:

• Patterson House
• The Catbird Seat
• Henrietta Red
• Arnold’s Country Kitchen
• Monell’s
• Five Points Pizza
• Pinewood Social (one of the most fun places to eat in Nashville!)

Other Cool Things To Do in Nashville (Besides eat, if you must:)

• Grand Ole Opry
• County Music Hall of Fame
• Ryman Auditorium
• Bluebird Cafe
• Radnor Lake
• Go mural hunting (clearly, we did.)

aaaaand lastly,

Walk Eat Nashville Food Tour 

A great overview and sampling of classic Nashville eats led by passionate locals and food writers. I did the classic downtown Nashville tour, but they also have an East Nashville and a Midtown tour.

Where To Stay in Nashville

I loved my stay at SoBro Guesthouse. With a fully equipped kitchen, laundry, and even the option to have groceries delivered, it really felt like I had an apartment in the heart of Nashville. I liked the hands-on check-in (you receive a code) and the fact that you can text a concierge for any help needed, but otherwise, your stay is fairly independent.

The design here, both in the rooms and in the outdoor patio area, is beautiful — clean, colorful, hip, and comfortable. I especially liked the record player and old records — a nice vintage touch!

Most importantly, the SoBro Guesthouse is within walking distance to many of the things you’ll want to see/eat (with dangerous proximity to Martin’s BBQ.) The rest of Nashville is at your fingertips with a quick Uber or Lyft ride. And if you’re driving — there’s free parking.

(Note: I stayed as a guest of SoBro Guesthouse during my Nashville weekend.)

The patio at SoBro

Happy traveling and eating!

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Barbecue, Blues, and Blogs in Memphis, Tennessee

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The American South is a region I keep getting called back to.

It could be the change of pace. It could be the charm, the favorite cities. It could be the fried chicken. This time, however, it was for Bloghouse — my favorite annual blogging conference (at which I mentor up-and-coming bloggers and teach travel writing.)

And when I found out I could fly direct from Oakland to Memphis for $59 (no, not a typo) and be eating Gus’s famous spicy fried chicken by lunchtime, I set out to brave the summer humidity and packed my bags faster than you can say “Bless Your Heart.”

Although I have and will continue to go on about Nashville, you don’t hear as much about Memphis these days. In fact, a Memphis resident I spoke with shared this hot take on the two Tennessee cities — “These days, Nashville is like the popular student in the classroom. Shiny hair and lots of time in the spotlight. Memphis though, Memphis is the quiet kid in the corner that might surprise you with how cool he really is.”

So, four days and several pounds later (worth it,) here’s what I found in Memphis: soul. If Nashville is country music, then Memphis is rhythm and blues. And when the city sings, you won’t want to compare it to any place else.

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Where to Eat in Memphis

Ah, the Southern food trifecta: fried chicken, barbecue, biscuits and gravy. (Washed down with a sweet tea, if that’s your thing.) To me these are the must-eats of any trip to the South, because quite frankly they don’t taste as good anywhere else. And lucky for you Memphis visitors, the city does them all right.

Gus’s Fried Chicken

Many food establishments claim to be ‘world’s best’ or ‘world famous,’  but have no doubt that Gus’s actually lives up to the claim.

I literally went straight off the plane to eat here and I stand firmly by my decision. I recommend going midday after the lunch rush if you can — lines can be quite long in peak times. Whether you have to wait for a table or not, you can rest assured what you are served will be worth it.

Grab fried chicken of course, and then choose your sides accordingly. I ate at Gus’s several times, and my favorite sides include the mac ‘n’ cheese, fried okra, and coleslaw. Save room for pie if you dare! (Extra points if you also eat the chicken with a Gibson’s donut!)

Central BBQ

With each location famous for different aspects of BBQ, I knew going in that Memphis was best-known for its dry rub and its ribs. Begin there at this famous spot, which again lives up to all the hype you’ve heard beforehand.

For me the way to go is to order ribs and perhaps one other meat of your choice. Order them dry and then you can get all of the different sauces on the side to see what suits your fancy without having to make a sauce commitment (you’re welcome.) Try the pulled pork nachos if you want to be blown away.

As for lines, they seem to move pretty quickly — so don’t get discouraged if you see one wrapped around the block.

If you’re on a tour-de-BBQ, also check out Cozy Corner and Charles Vergo’s Rendezvous.

The Flying Fish

If, like me, you equate good Southern food with down home vibes and perhaps, say, fried catfish and hushpuppies, this is your spot.

Immediately you’ll feel transported stepping in their doors. And while they’ve got a huge menu full of seafood-focused options, you better believe they also serve all-you-can-eat catfish every Wednesday for $12.99. SO. GOOD.

Blue Plate Cafe

An awesome spot for breakfast. It’s everything I ask for with my first meal of the day — friendly service, free-flowing coffee, excellent pancakes, crisp bacon, and some of the best biscuits and gravy of your life. Enjoy.

Loflin Yard + Railgarten

Once you’re done touring the classics, you’ll definitely want to head to these two places. Both have open air spaces that feel a bit like someone’s backyard, with plenty of entertainment, food, and drink to go around.

At Loflin Yard, I loved the charred salad (get your veggies on!,) the wings, and the brisket tacos. They do a mean pimento cheese dip as well if that’s your thing!

Railgarten offers up local beers, duck fat fries, cheese curds, and will you believe it…one of the best veggie burgers I’ve tasted. Take some time to relax and enjoy their fun outdoor space!

The Gray Canary

I didn’t get the chance to eat here, but I heard from several locals about how excited they were to have this new spot from renowned chefs for some Memphis fine dining. I had a look at the space when I was in the nearby Old Dominick’s Distillery and from the raw bar to the grill, I was excited about every menu item so you should probably know about it.

Things to Do in Memphis

National Civil Rights Museum

For me this was the single most important stop of my visit to Memphis. Located in what was once the motel Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in, it now showcases the history and culture of the American Civil Rights Movement. Its moving exhibits and displays are very interactive and the stories told within its walls continue to be of utmost importance today. Allow for a few hours at a minimum to take it all in.

Graceland

Whether or not you’re a fan of The King, his mansion and his story set largely in Memphis are a huge part of American popular culture and music around the world. Graceland has a bit of a theme park-esque vibe (be prepared to have your picture taken and to board shuttles,) but there’s no arguing that it’s a quintessential even fascinating experience to learn about his life and legacy and see his former home (a bit of a time capsule!)

Sun Studio

The site of Elvis Presley’s first ever record recorded (at age 18,) the walls of this small music studio have since seen the likes of Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, and more. They’ve got a small set of exhibits and a guided tour that immerses visitors in music history.

Beale Street

Day or night this is one of the most happening streets in all of America — with live music, blues bars lights, and likely, some debauchery. Security is tight in the evenings, but it’s worth braving the crowds or lines to get a taste of the truly iconic musical street that is at the heart of Memphis’s past and present.

Other:

Get out on the Mississippi River: Try Memphis Riverboats or, take a kayaking tour.

Drink on a rooftop: One of my very favorite experiences in Memphis was touring then new Old Dominick’s Distillery. They have a beautiful rooftop, amazing cocktails, and often feature live music. Plus, it’s across the street from Gus’s!
I also had the chance to try out the seasonal rooftop party at The Peabody. Fun live music as well, plus those city views (at sunset!) The Peabody hosts parties on their rooftop every Thursday night from approximately April to August.

This visit I had my fair share of pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes, and mac ‘n’ cheese as well — don’t you worry!

Memphis Hotels

Ever since I first thought of visiting Memphis I had The Peabody on my mind. The iconic hotel is as grand as any in the South, but is perhaps best known for its famous ducks that live on the roof, march to the lobby, and play in the fountains. The ducks are well cared for, and more adorable than I thought they’d be — but it’s the charm of the story and the tradition that goes along with them that endeared them to me.

The Peabody is located at the heart of downtown Memphis, meaning you can walk to the majority of the places listed above with relative ease. Check out the lobby or grab a drink. Even if you aren’t sleeping here (though I recommend you do!) it’s more than worth stopping in to soak in the history and beauty of the hotel.

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Quick Trip Tips

• Getting to downtown Memphis is a quick and easy Uber or Lyft ride. Plan for 15-20 minutes to get there.
• Ride the street cars! The Main Street Trolley has just been brought back and at $1 per ride, the fare is exceptionally reasonable.
• Even if you aren’t a guest at The Peabody, you’re welcome to stop in to see the Ducks March! It takes place at 11 am and 5 pm daily.
• Check out the I Love Memphis blog for current events, shows, and more goings-on.
• If you have the time or are so inclined, check out Cooper-Young neighborhood. It’s a hip area with lots going on.

Disclosure: I was teaching at Bloghouse during my time in Memphis. Thank you to Memphis Tourism, The Peabody Memphis, Mediavine, and Tennessee Tourism who hosted part of my stay.
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Or, how I learned to fall in love with a completely different part of my own country on an unexpected USA road trip.

I’m a California girl, through and through. A Northern California girl, to be specific (after ten years in Southern California, the distinction is necessary.) The more I see of the world, the more sure of that I am.

When someone asks me where I’m from whenever I’m abroad, I reply without thinking: “California.” I realize, of course, that they’re looking to hear my country, not my state.

Most expect me to reply with “the United States.” And while I’m a proud American (well, most of the time,) I really identify so much more strongly with being a Californian and even a San Franciscan…and I’ve never been clearer on that than now.

I’ve also never been more aware that California is a bit of a bubble. So when I had the opportunity to road trip from Alabama to San Francisco (coincidentally, not long before the election of 2016) I pondered where outside my home state I wanted to visit. It was time (again) for me to see more of my own country.

Why was I so keen on pushing past my comfort zone in other countries and on different continents, yet unwilling to explore the expanse of land just to the right of me?

You feel me on this question, Americans? Maybe it’s time to explore one of my favorite regions of our fair nation.

Here are my top five cities to visit in Southern USA.

Charleston

Perhaps the most charming city I’ve been to outside of SF, Charleston cuts through its thick, humid air and pastel houses right through to your heart. The burgeoning food scene and friendly locals certainly don’t hurt. Between historic homes and waterfront walks, Charleston is easy to love. Here’s why:

Why Go

Carriage rides, Lowcountry cuisine, ghost stories, plantation homes, colorful streets, stately homes.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss FIG, Husk, Poogan’s Porch (mmm for brunch,) The Ordinary, and Butcher & Bee.

Where to Stay

Zero George Street, a posh boutique luxury spot in the heart of the historic district.

Read More: Slowing Down in South Carolina

Nashville

I’m not a country music fan by any means (ok, I love me some Zac Brown Band and the occasional Carrie Underwood song but I digress…) and I still loved Nashville. Though it’s known for its honky-tonks and country music halls, there is of course so much more to this energetic city. From neighborhood strolls to hot chicken, here’s how to fall in love with the ‘ville of Nash.

Why Go

Live music, cute boutiques, meat and threes, city vibes with a small town feel, hot chicken.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss: Hattie B’s or Prince’s (hot chicken,) Pancake Pantry, Bluebird Cafe (music,) Pinewood Social, Arnold’s Country Kitchen.

Where to Stay

I love the Hutton Hotel. It’s a beautiful property, and it’s central to a lot you’ll want to see.

Read More: Where to Eat in Nashville

Atlanta

In full disclosure, I’ve been in the Atlanta airport far more than the city of Atlanta. But after visiting a friend there I came to appreciate ATL for more than just the proximity of Waffle House (though, Waffle House is legit.) These have been my favorite parts of Atlanta to date.

Why Go

Beautiful urban parks, dynamic culture, MLK history, sweet tea, and apparently beautiful skies!

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss Gunshow, The Optimist, Miller Union, The Varsity, and Busy Bee Cafe.

Where to Stay

Hotel Clermont, a 1920s themed hotel that’s got a  great location and all the charm.

Read More: Slowing Down in South Carolina

Austin

Austin was the first place on this list that I visited and the one I’m most likely to return to next. What is it about the Texan capital that captures so many visitors? It’s hard to put a finger on it, but breakfast tacos, barbecue, live music, and keeping it “weird” is certainly a start.

Why Go

Tex Mex, BBQ, more Tex Mex…but seriously also, Barton Springs, South Congress, murals, Rainey Street, and so much more.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss: Frankin or La Barbecue (BBQ,) Torchy’s Tacos or Tacodeli (tacos,) Polvo’s (Tex Mex,) La Condesa (cocktails,) Central Market, Alamo Drafthouse, Easy Tiger.

Where to Stay

I usually stay with friends, but loved the pool at the JW Marriott Austin.

New Orleans

Ah, NOLA. I could go on and on about how much I adore this city — with its distinct culture, cuisine, cocktails, and cool vibes it feels almost like leaving the country. Rather than dream of jazz on Frenchman street, beignets hot from the oven, or late nights with a Sazerac in hand, I’d rather you just took my word for it and got on the next plane there.

Why Go

Food, cocktails, food…jazz, Garden District, Frenchman St., joie de vivre, beignets, and more cocktails.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss: Cochon, Cafe du Monde, Commander’s Palace (25 cent martinis…,) Jacques-Imo’s, La Petite Grocery, Sazerac Bar, Carousel Bar, Antoine’s, The Spotted Cat (for jazz) and so much more!

Where to Stay

I’ll probably stay at the Hotel Monteleone next time so I have downstairs access to the Carousel Bar, let’s be real.

Read More: A Foodie’s Guide to New Orleans

All pride aside, there is something about the South I’ve always been drawn to. Some cities I visited on my cross-country road trip, others I’ve made a priority out of visiting on their own. And though I maintain that if I couldn’t live in San Francisco, I’d move right to London or Paris…these fun, vibrant, and welcoming Southern cities right here in the USA give me pause, and make me feel a greater appreciation for the country I call home.

Whether you are American or Californian, or not, these places have a historic weight and well, charm, that is undeniable. They have some of the most beautiful architecture, culture, and food I’ve encountered anywhere in the world.

So while perhaps I should’ve ventured out sooner, now that I have fallen for these places…I won’t be so firm in my California roots that I forget to look around at the beauty and history beyond my state border.

I hope you won’t either. <3

This post was originally posted in 2017 and was recently updated for accuracy and relevancy.

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(Because the way to the heart is the stomach, clearly.)

What it’s like to return to a place you once disdained, and discover that you quite like it after all.

—

Or, How I Finally Fell in Love with Indianapolis (and a guide for where to eat in Indy so you will, too.)

Two years ago, heck, even two months ago…if you had told me I’d be landing on the tarmac for a work trip to Indianapolis, I’d have laughed in your face and told you you were insane.

It’s nothing against Indiana. Some of the loveliest people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting have their roots in the Midwestern state. It’s just that the job I used to have, the one before all this blogging business, took me there on a semi-regular basis. And when I left said corporate career, just over four years ago, I had zero desire to ever return to the place I most associated with that part of my life. Just like so much of turning away from that path, I was certain I was leaving it in the past.

So as I stared down at the plane ticket bound for IND, I could hardly believe life had taken me back there. Travel writing might just be the most opposite pursuit from pharmaceutical sales. How did pursuing a completely different career take me to the same exact place?

I called my mother. I told her anxiously, “I’m going to teach at Bloghouse again this year.”

“Why don’t you sound excited? That’s always a highlight of your year.”

“I know, but this year it’s in Indianapolis. You know how I feel about the time I spent there. I am uneasy about going back,” I explained.

“It won’t be the same,” she continued. “It may be the same place, but you’ve changed a lot in the five years since you were there. And I’ll bet the city has too.” I shrugged. I wasn’t convinced.

“It’s a challenge,” she claimed. “Time to make new memories there.”

I knew she was right.

So I began to think of how I’d approach my visit to Indy had I been excited to explore a new, fun city, not a place that used to weigh me down with stress, exams, and presentations. How could I see the city through the traveler’s eyes I’d worked so hard to maintain? I sat in contemplation before I asked — what was the way to my heart, despite any other mental blocks?

And then it hit me: food.

Turns out Indianapolis has gone through a bit of a culinary revolution. One of the best restaurants in America? Right there in Indy. Top food city in America? Apparently that is Indy now, too. Conde Nast Traveler went as far as naming it the “most underrated food city in America.”

At the heart of both Indy (well, actually the entire Midwest for me) and of Bloghouse has always been good people. And those can feel hard to find. But as for what would make me fly across the country to spend 48 hours there?

Ladies and gentlemen, the food.

(Disclaimer and note: None of these places were even open the last time I was in Indy! GO INDY.)

Without further adieu, may I present, falling in love with Indy in six simple steps. Here’s where to eat in Indianapolis, now:

downtown indy

Open Society

Why you’ll fall for it: Coffee shop by day, trendy restaurant by night. The only thing more beautiful than its design is its food.
What to order: Any of their salads, duck sliders! Portuguese wine, if your forte.

Napolese

Why you’ll fall for it: In all honesty, the dishes, ingredients, and preparation at Napolese is on a level I didn’t know existed in Indiana. They’re doing great things here.
What to order: Each salad I had was better than the last (which is to say, they’re all good,) and it’s hard to go wrong with wood-fired pizza but my highlights were Elliot’s Pie (pancetta, roasted new potatoes, gorgonzola) and the BLT (Smoking Goose jowl bacon, leeks, Taleggio.)

brunch spread at milktooth – indy’s most buzzed about restaurant

Cafe Patachou

Why you’ll fall for it: A locally loved spot with a comfortable yet upscale feel. On top of their brunch game.
What to order: Any of their “broken yolk” dishes. Don’t miss the cinnamon toast (trust me.)

Milktooth

Why you’ll fall for it: Hyped for a reason, and still lives up to high expectations. You can feel the passion from the chef oozing from the walls of this place. It’s incredible the artistry that is coming out of this cool space and its food.
What to order: Skip the bacon at your own peril. Their coffee drinks are spectacular, but I really fell in love with their matcha beverage. Dutch babies (savory and sweet) are famous – one bite and you’ll see why.

“bacon” at milktooth – obsessed.

Hotel Tango

Why you’ll fall for it: Gorgeous space, a place with heart, Indy’s artisanal distillery. Not to be missed if you’re a cocktail person. Across the street from Bluebeard so a great spot to stop in before dinner there. Also, they have the best bar cat ever (and I’m not even a cat person.)
What to order: They make their own spirits, so choose your favorite and decide if you want to stay with a house classic or roll the dice with one of their seasonal specials.

bluebeard – not just for the kurt vonnegut obsessed. one of the best meals i’ve had in ages.

Bluebeard

Why you’ll fall for it: Honestly, one of the best meals I’ve had in recent months. For me, even topped the illustrious Milktooth.
What to order: Their bread (homemade) and spreads are TO DIE FOR. Truth be told, everything from the menu was divine, and it changes daily, but I still can’t get the grilled octopus or foie gras plates out of my mind. And if there is any sort of peach soup on the menu when you go, don’t miss it.
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My visit to Indianapolis for Bloghouse was made possible with the support of Visit Indy, JW Marriott, and Visit Indiana though this post is in no way sponsored by these partners.

Shoutout to two classics and blasts from my past…

St. Elmo
(A historic steakhouse and true classic. Get the shrimp cocktail at the very, very least.)

Slippery Noodle Inn
(A fun, local jazz + blues bar with live music every night and that lovable dive bar feel.)
And you’ll also want to explore the very happening Mass Ave, as seen below:

Perhaps you won’t arrive with have the same preconceived notions about Indianapolis as I did. Perhaps you have different ones, or none at all. Suffice it to say that every trip, every place, every journey…has something to offer, lessons to be learned. I didn’t expect to love Indy this time around. But then the best things in life often happen outside of our expectations.
Indianapolis has and is undergoing some major changes, in as little as the past five years. Before I could stop and rebuff that, or interject with doubts, I realized…the same had been true for me.

You may not be able to change a person. But you can change a place. You can fall in love with a place with every bite, against the odds and with any bitter taste left from your last visit. And, the best news of all…you can grow past your past. You can change yourself.

Where to Stay

I loved my stay at the JW Marriott. Rooms are reasonable and the beds were incredibly comfortable.
For something more budget, check out some recommended cheap hotels in Indianapolis.
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I’ve been wanting to see Charleston for what feels like ages now. With many trips to the South in the past few years, I became more curious about the tree-lined paths and the warm, seaside air of South Carolina. Both sides of my family lived there at one point, and I was beginning to understand just how different parts of the United States can be away from my comfortable bubble in Northern California.

One of my best girlfriends here in San Francisco grew up spending summers on Myrtle Beach. I’d heard stories from my dad about his childhood summers there. And while I’m no Southerner, I’m certainly a beach girl.

When we toyed with taking a long weekend there to relax, I jumped at the chance to go. Both she and I desperately needed a break from the energy of the city and stresses of our careers. We could unwind at the beach, she said, and take a day trip down the coast to see the charms of Charleston. (Sold!)

With eye masks and neck pillows in tow, we hopped on a red-eye flight to Atlanta to make the most of the long travel time for our short visit. We made further use of the flight with Delta’s new Free In-Flight Entertainment, which is included (free of charge) on all of their flights. It seems like less and less is complimentary in the air these days, so we were pleased to find hundreds of options available (with surprisingly fast streaming) on our own devices via the GoGo Entertainment app.
.

You can even connect and stream on your phone (for free!)

I tend to try and write on planes, but the point of this trip was to take a true vacation, turn off my brain — and that meant watching a chick flick or two (it just does.)

Below are the things I found most rejuvenating about an escape to the other side of the country:

Slow pace.

From the moment the warm air hit my face, the sound of the cicadas chirping, the sight of trees slouching, and the feel of rain lightly dotting my skin beckoned me to slow down. I found this feeling replicated in my surroundings. People weren’t trying to hassle me or hustle me. Cars drive slower, people stroll when they walk, even speak slower. I once wrote that New York speeds me up; the South slows me down. I found great comfort in softening the edges around my days, letting moments stretch and time crawl — if only for a few days.

Warm waters.

I’m a Pacific Ocean gal. I couldn’t have told you what the Atlantic felt like last week. Now I know, it’s much…warmer.
We swam in the sea in sun, rain, and moonlight. I breathed deeply to inhale salty air, crunching sand under my curled feet and feeling the pull of the tide as it whirled back out to sea. At times it felt warmer to be in the water than out of it — something I’ve never known in all my wetsuit days as a California girl. We marveled at the eclipse and even moonbathed (like sunbathing, but under the moon!) I enjoyed it immensely.

Off-season in North Myrtle Beach.

Porch/veranda/piazza culture.

I didn’t know the difference between porches, verandas, and piazzas (and kind of still don’t, even after lengthy explanation.) All I know is that they are lovely, and I want to spend more time on them. Perhaps it’s because you can feel the breeze or hear the rain from the comfort of what feels like your living room, or maybe it’s just because that’s where I slowed down the most.

No frills.

(And honestly, low prices.)

I’ve gotten so used to exorbitance living in San Francisco, often scratching my head and squinting to make sure I’m reading prices correctly (it costs what?)…that I felt like the world opened up a bit for me in another state. Craving an oyster? 55 cents.

Fancy a cocktail? That’ll be $3.50. Fill up your gas tank? $16. (Whaaat.)

Charleston was particularly elegant, and there’s no denying that. But just as things were slower, they were simpler. Travel doesn’t always mean culture shock or sticker shock. Sometimes, it’s just a slightly different way of living daily life that takes us out of our element and helps us reconsider the small things.

Friendly faces.
I’ve never felt as if California was lacking in friendliness, but I knew about Southern hospitality and I now can say I’ve experienced it. For many life seems soft, slow, and sweet. I need a little more of that in my life.

From dollar beers and divey seafood bars, to strutting along King Street and hearing rain softly dance on the roof of our carriage ride in Charleston, we had found a different way of living — even if just for a weekend.

When the plane touched down in San Francisco, there were tears in my eyes. And while I loved South Carolina, and was quite happy to arrive home in SF, neither was the reason the two grown men on either side of me inquired as to my well-being. I had simply finished watching the film Me Before You, with the main character sitting in a Paris cafe and me mentally planning my next trip to Charleston while feeling all the feels.

Take it from me — a change of place (and maybe, a chance of pace) is good for the soul. Eat the fried chicken. Dance under the full moon. Listen intently to the ghost stories. Drink the bourbon, take the trip. If you find yourself driving ridiculously around a beach town in a golf cart, laugh. And on the plane, remember: save the tearjerkers for your home theater.

Thanks to Delta Airlines for sending us to the other side of the country, to my friend Bri for sharing her photo skills and beach house, and to you for supporting the brands that make Part-Time Traveler possible!

Until next time, South Carolina…

The post Slowing Down in South Carolina appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

It’s an all too familiar scene.

Friends visiting San Francisco text to ask if I’d like to join them somewhere in the city. They know I love sharing my city with visitors, especially those who haven’t been before. Yet a small part of me cringes when I hear their list of plans: Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, Union Square, Ghirardelli Square, riding in a cable car, clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl.

I resist the urge to text them back with “No! Don’t do it! It’s a trap!” …Those are all parts of San Francisco that I have fond memories of, especially as a child. And for those who haven’t been before, they’re essential parts of the SF tourist experience.
The moment in which I shudder has less to do with any given person’s San Francisco itinerary and more to do with thinking back to when that was all I knew of the city. It’s all that most who visit know of the city.

I grew up within a day trip’s driving distance of SF. While certainly no local, I made enough trips to the city to know (or to think I knew) about where to go and what to see. I visited often, with a quiet but magnetic draw to someday living in the city (though I wouldn’t become the person who could thrive there until later in life — I know this now.) Yet it wasn’t until I eventually made the move…when I fulfilled my dream of being a real San Franciscan…that I learned how little I actually knew about it.

Perhaps the biggest case in point — and the first place I send visitors to — is the Mission District. The neighborhood doesn’t tend to conjure up the classic visions of San Francisco that we see on postcards, but that’s exactly what I love about it. And while it has changed significantly since I was a child, and arguably even more in the last few years that I’ve lived here, to me it’s still one of the most interesting and exciting places in the city.

Another large part of why I love living in San Francisco is how walkable it is (car-free for three years here!) So when HI USA invited me along on one of their walking tours of the Mission District, I leapt on over there to take part.

First Stop:

Zeitgeist

San Francisco’s best beer garden is also an eclectic, locals-only bar and patio with one of the best Bloody Marys in the city. It’s the kind of original joint that is getting harder and harder to find. It’s the anti-trendy. Stop in for a beer, stay for the shaded back patio and people watching.

Next:

The Armory

One of the most intriguing buildings I’ve ever stumbled upon in SF, there’s certainly more to this historic building than meets the eye. Once an arsenal for the United States National Guard, it was built to replace the one destroyed in the 1906 earthquake. From there it functioned as a sports and events venue, a filming location for The Empire Strikes Back (this is a true story,) and then was threatened until purchased by kink.com (you can guess the business they’re in.) A fascinating landmark with many lives, it’s under renovation for its next life stage, so I recommend checking out the exterior or getting a drink next door at The Armory Club.

Next:

Clarion Alley

One of my favorite places in the entire city, Clarion Alley connects Mission Street to Valencia Street — and in some ways, it acts as a bridge between the two streets (traditional and gentrified…) and a symbol of the changing city. Social and political issues both local and national are present on its ever-changing walls, where beautiful art meets strong statements. Some sections of the alley’s walls, which are covered entirely with street art, rotate regularly while others claim their permanent place. The tension between the old and the new SF is palpable, and the expressions of the community can be clearly seen. If you’re lucky, you may even see one of the artists working as you walk down the alleyway.

Next:

Valencia Street

Other than Mission Street itself, Valencia Street is the main drag of the Mission District. Home to many of the shops, bars, and restaurants that have gentrified the area, it’s where you’ll find much of the city’s trendiest spots. It’s enjoyable to walk down Valencia and see old vs. new, classic vs. modern throughout.

Next:

Taqueria El Buen Sabor

I was particularly excited for this stop on the tour — one, because food, and two, a taqueria I hadn’t been to yet! It’s the sister stop of another favorite of mine (Pancho Villa, near 16th and Mission) and it has an excellent taco happy hour daily from 3-5pm. The first and only thing I knew about the Mission when I first arrived was the Mission burrito, which to this day remains one of my biggest delights. This is the true San Francisco treat, folks.

Next:

Mission Dolores and Dolores Cemetery

For all the times I’ve walked through the Mission District, I hadn’t ever realized the history behind the neighborhood’s namesake. Mission Dolores is both the oldest intact mission in California and the oldest building in all of San Francisco. It was one of the only structures to survive the 1906 earthquake. Aside from that it’s just amazingly beautiful. We were also told the history of the Dolores Cemetery, another one of few within SF.

(See, locals can learn something new, too!)

Last:

Dolores Park

If there ever was a place that summed up the Mission District, it’s Dolores Park. Perhaps it’s because at times it feels like the entire city is hanging out there — from tech bros to families to artists and hipsters. There’s the coconut rum man, the Macaw parrots, and any combination of yogis and lawn games to suit your style. If you can tear yourself away from the people watching, it also has one of the best views you’ll find of the city skyline.

Foodies may feel so inclined as to grab ice cream from Bi Rite or pizza from nearby Delfina and take it with them to the park (beware, everyone else does too.) Dolores is also one of the best spots to get some sunshine, even when fog creeps in on the rest of the city.

I couldn’t have been grateful to the other travelers who allowed me to join them. Germany, New Zealand, China, Australia, and Russia were some of the many countries represented on our walk. Thank you for the gift of seeing my city through traveler’s eyes!

The tour guides Mel and El were excellent, bringing to life some of what makes this my favorite city on Earth (and what might easily be overlooked by visitors.)

HI USA Downtown gives this Mission District walking tour to its guests every week on Saturday. I encourage you to learn more about HI USA’s Green Footprints and sustainability initiatives in San Francisco and throughout the US!

And I hope the next time you’re in San Francisco, you’ll give the Mission some of your time. I’ll meet you there…

BONUS!

Other favorite Mission spots….

Restaurants

• Mission Chinese
• Foreign Cinema
• Beretta
• Bar Tartine
• Flour+Water

Taquerias

• Taqueria Cancun
• El Farolito
• La Taqueria
• Pancho Villa

Bars

• Trick Dog
• Evil Eye
• Southern Pacific
• El Techo (Rooftop!)
• ABV

Coffee

• Four Barrel Coffee
• Ritual
• Sightglass

Bakeries and More

• Bi-Rite Market (ice cream!)
• Samovar Tea (get the chai)
• Arizmendi Bakery
• Tartine
• Dandelion Chocolate

Other

• Dogeared Books
• 876 Valencia (The Pirate Store)
• Aquarius Records

Note: this was not a paid partnership, just something I believe in!
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The post The Side of San Francisco Most Tourists Don’t See appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

It’s no secret that I’m a huge book nerd. My ideal afternoon includes prancing around foreign cities in search of the best libraries and bookstores. Yet in just over two years in San Francisco I’ve gotten to know my local bookstores — and they’ve become some of my favorites in the whole world.

In honor of National Book Lovers Day this week (which I am celebrating fully,) here is a list of what I consider to be…

The best independent bookstores and used bookstores in San Francisco.

Green Apple Books

One of my later discoveries but certainly one of the best, Green Apple Books is a SF classic. Located in the Inner Richmond, a trip to Green Apple pairs best with a stroll up and down Clement in search of the street’s best bites. The combination of their wide selection (hello, used travel book section!,) friendly staff, and proximity to dumplings makes this easily one of the best bookstores in the city.

Dogeared Books

With wide windows and tall bookshelves that beckon every book nerd walking through the Mission, Dogeared is a neighborhood favorite that keeps one of my favorite parts of the city well-stocked with classic books. What I love most about Dogeared the community feel they maintain. There’s also one in the Castro.

Russian Hill Bookstore

My former friendly neighborhood bookstore, it’s a cozy spot that makes you feel all warm and toasty while you browse the books and cards there. I especially love the discount cart out front (gets me every time) and the used cookbook section is always a winner (for you foodie bookworms!) It’s on another of my favorite city streets: Polk Street.

The Booksmith

A beautiful haven for bookworms on funky Haight Street. I especially love the staff recommendations (as designated on shelves) here.

Readers Bookstore at Fort Mason

This place is a hidden book lovers’ gem. Run by Friends of the SF Library, its tucked away but expansive inside, with a range of books from rare to super discounted (think less than $1.) You can most certainly treasure hunt here (my advice: set a time limit or you might get lost for hours.) It’s where I go to get my fill in between the SF Big Book Sale (the $1 book Sunday is by far the biggest treat I can think of.)

Book Passage

Deemed “the liveliest bookstore in the Bay Area,” the main store is out in Marin’s Corte Madera and is well worth the trek from the city, but they’ve also got a branch in the Ferry Building. Aside from being home to some of the city’s best literary events (including the Travel Writers and Photographers Conference, this week!) Book Passage has fostered an amazing community of creatives that is unparalleled in the area. The names both local and international that appear for readings here regularly blow my mind. The Marin location has a cute cafe as well, where you can even sip wine in between your book browsing. (I’m sold.)

City Lights Bookstore

Ah, City Lights San Francisco. The first time I walked by its exterior, the “Open Door, Open Books, Open Mind, Open Heart” signs in the window immediately drew me to the place. Its interior is even more full of quirks and quotes, my favorite of all being:

Where the streets of the world meet the avenues of the mind.

Its nooks and crannies are some of the most interesting spaces you’ll find, book lover or not, in the entire city. Outside of being a world literature hub, it has centuries of history and literary legacy as a publisher, including those of the Beat Generation poets.

City Lights harkens back to the San Francisco I imagine I’d love the most: literate, slightly rebellious, tolerant, progressive, bold.  I once heard someone call it “vibrantly old school,” which is basically what I aspire to be in life (ha.) Add in the fact that they’re the “sister” bookstore to what might be my favorite place in the whole wide world, and I can’t say that there’s any other bookstore that makes my heart go aflutter as this one does.

Do you know of any other bookstores in SF that I haven’t found yet? I’ll send you a delicious old book as a thank you. #thatoldbooksmell

Any other favorite bookstores you have found in your travels, or in your home city? Any favorite SF books? Tell me, tell me!

Happy reading, friends.

The post One Fine Read: Best Bookstores in San Francisco appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

What is Bloghouse then? It’s an offline gathering of bloggers new and old that somehow transforms a group of strangers into blogging gurus and new best friends. (Not exaggerating.)

I had no idea what I was getting into when I applied (let alone showed up) for the workshop in Chicago. But since then I’ve often looked back fondly on those four days, and I’ve been able to see all the little ways it changed my life personally and professionally.
So when the opportunity arose to go back to Bloghouse, I didn’t hesitate. Sure, from the outside things were a bit different this time around: it was to be held in Philadelphia (not Chicago,) in a hotel (not a house,) and I was to return not as a student…but as a teacher.

I put a lot of thought into the wisdom I wanted to impart, the experience I wanted to share. But I also knew that speaking from the heart (on the fly) and sharing openly and honestly was was made Bloghouse the magical thing that it is.
Now that Bloghouse: Round Two is over, I’ve given even more thought as to what it all means. Of course, the advice meant for blogging also applies to travel and life (because that is what I do.) And it wouldn’t be travel and life without some contradiction…

It’s About the True You
The world just doesn’t need more generic travel blogs. Come to think of it, the world doesn’t need more generic anything. If I want travel advice, I’ll pick up a Lonely Planet. If I want packing tips, there are hundreds of blog posts that already exist on the topic (and counting.) What there isn’t, what you must create…is what you alone can uniquely contribute. How do you do this?

So began the discussion of personal brand, which to me is simply: what do you/your story/your experiences/your perspective bring that no one else can? And how are you communicating this? Another way to think about it: what do you wish existed for travelers, on the Internet, that you’re not finding? What is it you wish you could read? Go write that.

For me it’s always a struggle reconciling who someone is in person versus who they are online. At times I’ve found someone disappointing in person that I enjoyed reading online (though I’ll never say who!) The opposite is also true. More often than not, and as was the case at Bloghouse, I found these vibrantly alive, unique, and fascinating people to be more compelling in person than on the page.

Why is this? My belief is that there’s a certain mold that we’re told to fit, a model for what success is and how its measured. Blogging and social media, while newer than most pursuits and constantly evolving, is not immune to this.

While adopting some of the established mindset is helpful, it doesn’t always leave much room for us to be ourselves. Now more than ever we’re being asked to pave our own roads to success, to define our own days, and do things in our own ways. I’ve seen this be labeled with a number of different names, but they usually fall under the umbrella term that is thrown around more than I’d like: authenticity.

I used to hear the advice, “be yourself!” and react like, “awesome, will do!” When someone tells me they think our conversation or my writing is genuine or authentic, I think of that as the biggest compliment I could get.

Yet I’ve come to see it in a more complicated light. I once saved this quote:

We’re in this weird culture where you’ve got to sell yourself aggressively while remaining “authentic”. You think you need to be perfect but you also need to feel free to fail. You need to be yourself and more! It’s all set up to make you feel like a fraud. This problem is only getting worse as more of us rely on our online presences.

To me there’s a difference between sharing your authentic self — whether in a conversation or on a blog — and being yourself without regard for what people will think of you. I believe that’s another reason so many of us follow the rules, the prescribed route to success. It’s predictable, and we don’t have to worry as much about being criticized. Because when we’re sharing our real selves, and we receive negative feedback…it feels so much more, well, personal.

So often, whether we realize it or not, we naturally turn away from sharing what makes us different. In doing so, we also shy away from what makes us stand out.

Think of it this way: you’ve got an empty room (or a blank page.) Would you rush to fill it with things, just so that you had somewhere to sit or something to look at? I would argue that most blogs are putting up IKEA furniture (no offense, IKEA) that’s cheap, comes with instructions, and while it often comes together well enough…you can find its items in nearly all the homes. (It’s called a ‘homepage’ for a reason.)

What if instead, we took the time and care to be particularly thoughtful about what we build and where we place it, if each piece reflected something about ourselves? What if every thing in the room was custom built, by hand, as an expression of joy or individuality? Quality must take precedence over quantity in this case. It requires more time, and you must risk your vulnerability to do it well. Still — I know which room I’d rather spend time in.

The same goes for life, whether you have a little home on the Internet or not. It’s not just about finding friends, it’s about finding the right friends. It’s not just about finding customers, it’s about finding the right customers. And it’s not just about attracting readers (hi there!) or increasing your traffic numbers, it’s about bringing the right people to you, who stick around and actually care what you have to say. The only way to do this (and stand out in the sea of blogs at the same time) is to write well, share openly, and highlight what it is that makes you unique.

The problem is that the Internet is a nasty, judge place where trolls reign not just under bridges but on top of them. Suddenly they’re standing in our pretty little rooms.

Still, the walls come down at Bloghouse. It’s a safe place to ask any question, share any doubt, express any unedited thought.

We should be doing more of this on our blogs, in our lives.

 It’s Not About You
As difficult and as rewarding as putting your real self out there is, ultimately it has nothing to do with you. If you wanted to write just for yourself, you could pen a diary. Even if we write for ourselves, we publish it to connect with others.
The exciting thing about sharing your ‘true’ self online, with others? About highlighting the experiences and perspectives that are unique to only you? You open the door to true connection. You find your people.

Beyond this, why do we write? Is the point of posting a pretty picture of your trip to Amsterdam just to show how amazing your life is?  Is the reason you’re wearing that outfit or pasting that Facebook status because other people will like it, or because you do? I’d be willing to bet that your real intention is to inspire, entertain, or inform, something I believe every blog post should strive to do.

Maybe you’re scared of flying. Perhaps you have a passion for languages, or you toil with traveling gluten-free, or you’ve spent thirty years behind the kitchen door as a chef. You may think no one cares — that they’d rather read another “10 Things to Do in Florence,” or see another room resembling an IKEA store. But we only care if you give us something real to connect with you on.

It’s much, much easier to convey your individuality in person than it is online.  The truth is that I didn’t care as much as much about what any of my new blogger friends were writing…until I met them. Why? Because they had no choice but to be their authentic selves in that Bloghouse room.

I don’t know exactly what to call that, but the Internet needs more of it. It’s a quiet confidence that says: here’s who I am, what I’m about, and what I’m into. No one wants to stand in a room talking to people who are faking that they care (or worse, not even listening) as you pour your heart out — why do we want that when we’re in a conversation online?

And a good blog is just that — a conversation. It’s not a diary. It’s not brag book, or a raised platform from which you give sermons. It’s a discussion with your readers, even if there aren’t any comments at the end of the post.  True influence comes from authentically connecting with people. And this is a shift away from buying followers or gaming social media to appear as if you have more people that care what you have to say than actually do (and so many people do this.)

Strangely enough, this is exactly what I liked about Philly as a city. I’ve often equated cities or places to relationships, and while Philadelphia and I are now acquaintances, I’m still just getting to know it. What I like most about it so far is that it’s unapologetically itself. You might come to eat a cheesesteak and see the Liberty Bell, but you could stay for the hammocks by the river, the strolls through historic streets, or the beer gardens that pop up in the summertime.

The best trips are those in which the place informs the experience, one that shows us another side of ourselves and prompts us to think differently. A city with a rich past, like Philadelphia, stands there like a confident person. It knows and honors its past, it’s been there before you came and it will still be standing after you leave. It might not even care if you like it.
That’s the character of Philly and that’s the magic of Bloghouse.  It’s people getting together in a shared space, letting down their guards, connecting on mutual goals, keeping it real. Sometimes we have to try this on in person before we can do it online. It’s all an exercise in expressing ourselves openly, connecting with, and maybe even inspiring others. It’s what makes for a compelling person (and an interesting blog.) Whether you blog or not…

Find a city, a community, and a craft that honors the real you.

Two years later, I’ve learned this: whether in your writing, at a conference, or in a city, it pays to be yourself.
That’s true — past, present, and future.

Bloghouse 2016 was made possible with the support of Visit Philly, Sonesta Philadelphia, and Context Travel. All opinions are strictly my own.Read about:

Bloghouse Chicago

Bloghouse Indianapolis

Bloghouse Memphis

I’m teaching my own retreats in 2019. Learn more.

 

The post Past, Present, and Future in Philadelphia appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.