With all there is to see to this world, I still find myself drawn back to European capital cities over and over again.

In fact, I consider it a high point in my travel life whenever I’m able to visit my top four (all European capitals in the same year Rome >> Barcelona >> Paris >> London; it’s only happened twice, but it just happened over the past year!)

Not long ago it was a huge deal — both the time and money investment — to book a ticket to Europe from elsewhere. As it becomes cheaper and cheaper to fly across the pond (I flew to Rome from SFO last month for under $300 whaaat,) I began reflecting on my favorite European capitals to visit. I’ve listed them below — with the top five being classics many of us know and love, and the latter five being smaller capitals that have really captured my heart as well.

My Favorite European Capital Cities

Paris

Ah, Paris. What can I possibly write that would do the City of Light justice?

Paris makes me feel like a different person, in the best possible way. This grand city teaches so many of us how to linger longingly over meals, how to appreciate art whether on a street corner or on a museum wall, how to love being alone.

More has been written on the many appeals of Paris than perhaps any other city in the world. There’s a reason for that…don’t miss it.

Reasons to Go:

• Every bit of Paris holds some beauty. It’s a place to take extra pleasure in the simple things, like biking through the streets, picnicking on the Seine, or relaxing in a park.
• French culture and language is one of the most immersive in the world. I learn a lot from attempting to understand how they think or feel differently about things than the culture I grew up with, which is a large part of why I love being in Paris so much.
• The bistros, restaurants, cafes, and patisseries. The wine, the bread, the cheese…did I mention the wine?

Top Paris Experiences:

• See the Eiffel Tower (and climb it, if you so choose.) The Arc de Triomphe, Sacre Coeur, and our beloved (and recently harmed) Notre Dame are other iconic landmarks you don’t want to miss.
• Visit two of the world’s best museums: The Louvre and Musée d’Orsay. I happen to also love these lesser known museums — check out the Musée de l’Orangerie, Musée Jacquemart-André, and the Musée Rodin as well.
• Lose yourself in the city streets, absorbing the architecture, neighborhoods, and French way of life as you go. I recommend a park like the Luxembourg Gardens, Tuileries Gardens, Place des Vosges, or the lesser-known Parc Monceau.

Stay: Cobblestone Paris, or Hotel Verneuil (recently remodeled and in my very favorite part of Paris.)

Read more: why you should rent an apartment when staying in Paris. And if you’re interested in the best skincare on the planet, what to buy at the French pharmacy.

London

A truly global city that is delightfully full of British history and charm, London is both modern and classic at once. The sheer range of experiences — you can go from afternoon tea at the Ritz to curry and street art in East London and back — make this one of the world’s most exciting cities to be in, period.

If I had to choose just one city on Earth to live in (besides my current one,) it would be London. The variety of people, lifestyles, events, (and most definitely the British humor,) continues to pull me in time after time.

Reasons to Go:

• The art, theater, architecture, pub culture, and yes, food — are enough to keep you busy even without hitting the major sights. Might I recommend spending some time making friends in pub?
• Most all of the major museums in London are free to enter (and a pure Godsend when I was a student living in Europe, I tell you.)
• Don’t even get me started on how fantastic the Tube is. It’s easy to navigate the massive sprawl that is all of London’s various neighborhoods on the orderly and timely Underground.

Top London Experiences

• See the English capital’s iconic landmarks with your own two eyes, including Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London (my favorite,) and Tower Bridge. If you’re short on time or feel overwhelmed at thought of trying to see it all/navigate public transport, the Big Bus Tour is nice for first-time visitors wanting to hit the sights.
• Dive into English and global history and culture at one of the main museums. The British Museum, Tate Britain, Tate Modern, and the National Gallery will have you off to a great start.
• Explore some of London’s best neighborhoods (and their pubs.) I suggest starting with Notting Hill, Shoreditch, Chelsea, Mayfair, or Camden. You can sprinkle in some market visits to enrich your exploration — Borough Market, Old Spitalfields, and Broadway Market are a few that will leave lasting impressions.

Stay: The Hoxton

Read more:London itinerary, where to eat in London, and where to stay in London, and going beyond London.

Rome

Oh, the Eternal City. It only took six visits for me to fall in love.

Like many travelers, Rome was right at the top of the places I most wanted to see when I first began discovering Europe. I pictured standing in awe in front of ancient monuments, seeing cute Vespas parked against colored walls, and drinking espresso leisurely on terraces.

Rome is all of these favorite things I hoped for — and more. Still, the crowds and selfie snappers (and if summer, heat) can bring the enjoyment level down for many. I recommend waking up early and/or investing in skip-the-line tickets for major sights. Remove the modern day tourist headaches and you’ll skip right to the many fascinating layers of Rome that make it, well, eternal; and one of the most special places on the planet.

Reasons to Go:

• To have the chance to walk alongside some of the world’s most ancient ruins and the backdrop of modern Rome. There may be no other city in the world with as many layers of history and meaning as Rome.
• To eat the food. Pasta, pizza, espresso, gelato…
• To discover Rome’s hidden treasures. From courtyards and fountains to painted churches and narrow alleys, Rome is a city with secrets that are a delight to wander and find.

Top Rome Experiences:

• See the ruins: visit the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon, and Trevi Fountain at a minimum. (Go at sunrise or opening time for beautiful light and to avoid crowds!)
• Relax in a piazza: Choose one or a few and sit and sip from a cafe or with a book on a bench and watch Rome go by. Try Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, or Campo de’ Fiori (the only piazza where a market, not a church, is the focus.)
• Tour the Vatican: from the outstanding Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel to the massive St. Peter’s Basilica, visiting the Vatican is a must for every traveler to Rome.

Stay: Tree Charme (Trastevere)

Read more: How to Fall in Rome or check out the blog of my good friend Natalie, a Rome resident and author of An American in Rome.

Also see: Rome in Black and White and watch for forthcoming posts from my most recent visit.

Barcelona

I’ll admit I have a soft spot for Barcelona. I lived with a family there as a student abroad, and had some of the most formative and memorable months of my life in the city.

Admittedly, it’s not the capital of Spain — but it is the capital of Catalonia, and my preference as the top city to visit in Spain (I do like Madrid, too!) Even though the city is undergoing some major changes at the hand of its popularity and still rising tourism, Barcelona is compelling and lovely and artful in a way that few other cities in the world are.

Reasons to Go:

• Barcelona has it all — beach, city, mountains. It has relaxation and nightlife, food and drink. I think the unbeatable combination of atmospheres it offers is one of the reasons it has grown so much in popularity.
• Catalan people are some of the loveliest I’ve met on my travels, (especially in cities.) They are proud but also warm and open to telling you about their city and their culture.
• The food and architecture is some of the most unique and creative in all of Europe (in my humble opinion.)

Top Barcelona Sights

• Visit Gaudi’s masterpieces — including the famous La Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera, Casa Batllo, and Parc Guell.
• Spend the day out in Barcelona’s tapas bars, or the night out at its clubs (if that’s your jam.) I’ve never had quite as much fun as in these two places. Don’t leave without eating and drink at El Xampanyet!
• Stroll through the Gothic Quarter, a labyrinth of stone streets that contains much of Barcelona’s history. Walk through El Born — my favorite Barcelona neighborhood — down to the beach.

Stay: The One Barcelona

See also: Barcelona in Black and White

Athens

I was told many times that I probably wouldn’t like Athens, so I wasn’t expecting much. As beautiful as the Greek Islands are, I ended up extending my stay here to immerse myself further in the city — which is much more than just the Acropolis and the departure point to Santorini. Make sure that you make a point of spending at least a few days getting to know the Greek capital. (I think you’ll fall in love, too!)

Reasons to Go:

• Absorb the history of ancient Greece at sites like the Acropolis (and its wonderful museum.)
• Athens has some of the best street art, markets, and food out there. Look up and around for rooftop bars with views at night, too.
• If you’re craving a day of Greek island life (and let’s face it, who isn’t) you can still take a quick day trip to the fantastic island of Hydra.

Top Athens Experiences:

• Soak in the glory of the Parthenon at the Acropolis and learn more at the stunning Acropolis museum. Don’t miss the Ancient Agora or Temple of Olympian Zeus, which are two impressive sights both included in the Acropolis ticket price.
• Explore the streets of Monastiraki, a favorite Athens neighborhood for its flea market, views of the Acropolis, and many delicious tavernas.
• Take in a film at the Cine Paris, an outdoor movie theater with incredible nighttime views of (you guessed it) the Acropolis.

Stay: A is for Athens (fantastic rooftop bar here too!)

Lisbon

Lisbon is another European city I didn’t expect to love as much as I did. Although the good word is spreading, Lisbon remains affordable and relatively non-touristy compared to many of the other destinations on this list. It’s full of all the top draws to Europe — architecture, culture, and cuisine — without many of the downsides (costs, crowds, catering to visitors.)

Reasons to Go:

• City views: there are more opportunities to see the beautiful Lisbon rooftops from above than in most cities.
• Costs: As mentioned above, Lisbon is one of the European capitals where you’ll get the most bang for your buck (or Euro.)
• See some of Europe’s most beautiful castles with a day trip to nearby Sintra.

Top Experiences in Lisbon:

• Walk around in the Alfama, the oldest and one of the most beautiful districts of the city with stunning architecture and heaps of traditional corners and cafes.
• Speaking of architecture, keep your eyes peeled for azulejos, which are the beautiful painted ceramic tiles adorning many of the city’s iconic buildings.
• Eat and drink some of Portugal’s unique culinary treats — from vinho verde (green wine!) to pasteis de nata (a fantastic custard tart.)

Stay: The Lisboans Apartment

Ljubljana

Of all the European capital cities I’ve visited, Ljubljana was perhaps the biggest surprise. The first word that comes to mind when I think of it is…lovely. It’s just lovely there.

Perhaps some of it has to do with the fact that the city center is mostly pedestrianized, or that the sidewalk cafes spill out onto terraces, coinciding with long walks along the riverfront shaded by trees. Or perhaps it’s just that I hadn’t heard much about Ljubljana so I wasn’t expecting much. Regardless, this is one European capital city to move to the top of your list.

Reasons to Go:

• Charm and size. Ljubljana is small but lively, charming yet real. I am certain you will delight in just walking around there.
• Lake Bled, one of the most beautiful in Europe, is a short 45 minutes away by car or bus.
• Like any great city, there are a variety of local and international restaurants and museums worth exploring.

Top Ljubljana Experiences:

• See the city from atop the Castle Hill and walk around Ljubljana Castle. It’s especially pretty at sunrise or sunset.
• Meet up at Prešeren Square, do some browsing for local goods, at the Ljubljana Central Market, take in the sidewalk cafe culture.
• Ljubljana is great for walking, but you can also hire a bike or take a boat tour down the river for different perspectives of the city.

Stay: Adora Hotel

Read more: European Experiences for the Traveler Who Has “Done” Europe

Amsterdam

Amsterdam and I are overdue for some more time together, but the city made a mark on me when I visited over ten years ago. From cruising its canals to biking to and from its cafes, Amsterdam seems to leave a lasting impression on many. Go with an open mind, for you will be met with many!

Reasons to Go:

• Amsterdam is known for its forward-thinking, friendly locals. Sit in a cafe for a bit and soak up the local culture. (English is widely spoken.)
• Speaking of culture, the city is home to some of Europe’s best art and architecture.
• Check out Amsterdam’s local markets, food halls, and parks to experience the best Dutch cuisine and spaces.

Top Amsterdam Experiences:

• Explore the variety of neighborhoods. Consider renting a bike! Don’t miss Jordaan and consider checking out the Red Light District.
• Check out the major must-do sites such as the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh museum, and Anne Frank House.
• Take a boat tour down the canals (and enjoy some local food and drink while you do – many will let you bring your own.)

Stay: Hotel TwentySeven

Zagreb

Zagreb, the underrated capital of Croatia, was yet another pleasant surprise as a traveler. Like many of the cities on this list, it’s great for cafes, for art, for strolling. People often skip or overlook this great city in favor of Croatia’s coastline and the historic/Instagrammable Dubrovnik — but you definitely should not.

Reasons to Go:

• Zagreb’s cafe culture makes it worth a visit alone. Croatian wine and beer are both excellent, and typically inexpensive. And if you’re a coffee person…this is your city!
• You can day trip to some stunning national parks, including Plitvice Lakes and its many cascades.
• Word hasn’t quite gotten out, so Zagreb is one of few European capitals where you won’t see many tourists. (A major plus for me, personally.)

Top Zagreb Experiences:

• One of my favorite museums in the world is Zagreb’s Museum of Broken Relationships. They’ve done an amazing job of showcasing the universal complexity of human relationships and experience of heartbreak.
• Take in the architecture and city sights, including St. Mark’s Church and its iconic tiled roof, the Art Pavilion, Lotršćak Tower, Dolac Market and more. The city is divided into Upper and Lower, so you can explore a little of each
• Tour the city with Iva from Secret Zagreb to find hidden courtyards and hear well, secrets and stories of the city.

Stay: Hotel Esplanade

Read more: Road Tripping Croatia

Dublin

When I close my eyes and picture Dublin, I can almost feel the pint glass in my hand and hear the sweet sound of live Irish music. As the Irish capital, Dublin is a wonderful introduction to the country and its friendly culture. From historic sites to stunning parks to the insides of pubs, Dublin is endlessly charming and worth visiting over and over.

Reasons to Go:

• Pubs! It’s hard to imagine a better place to experience Ireland’s heart than over a pint. Even if you don’t drink, the atmosphere, conviviality, and music are reason enough to spend some time in them.
• Castles! Don’t miss the Dublin Castle in town and the Powerscourt Estate which is a short drive away.
• Trinity College Library. The stunning interior of this grand university’s library will take your breath away – even if you’re not a book nerd like me! Be sure to check out the Book of Kells exhibit on display there.

Top Dublin Experiences

• Walk around and take in the sights like St Patrick’s Cathedral, O’Connell Street, and the Ha’penny Bridge. Stop for a rest in the beautiful park of St Stephen’s Green.
• Explore the Temple Bar area. Yes, it’s a bit touristy and yes, it is still awesome.
• Go behind-the-scenes and see how the iconic beverages of Ireland are made at the Guinness Storehouse (great view from the top, too!) and the Jameson Distillery.

Stay: Merrion Hotel

Read more: Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin

So that’s my list! Did I miss anything?

I’ll put together some favorite Asia and U.S. capital cities list together soon, and I’m looking forward to hearing about which places you love most.

Some others I’d like to see, or see again, soon include:

• Berlin, Germany
• Budapest, Hungary
• Riga, Latvia
• Copenhagen, Denmark
• Stockholm, Sweden
• Prague, Czech Republic
• Bucharest, Romania

What’s the best European city you’ve been to? Would love to know your favorites!

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The post Ten Must-Visit European Capitals appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Here’s why getting away to the U.K. (without even touching London) is one of my favorite trips to take.

Best Places to Visit in Northern England

Guide and Itinerary

Guilty as charged. I’ve been that American tourist. Over and over. The one who loves Great Britain, yet seems to only make my way toward London each and every time I visit. (With friends there and it being such a dynamic city, it’s hard not to!)

Still, the British friends I met traveling (because I always make British friends abroad, without fail) kept insisting that I was missing out.

“Northerners are way friendlier, not to mention more fun,” they’d say. “You can’t say you love the U.K. if you only go to London. That’s like going to New York and saying you’ve seen America.”

So when a new flight route with Virgin Atlantic launched from San Francisco direct to Manchester, which is considered the gateway to Northern England, I knew this was my chance to branch out of my U.K. comfort zone.

I divided my time between the allure of the English countryside (it’s always calling me,) a dynamic smaller city (in this case, Liverpool,) and the city lights of Manchester, the country’s “second city.”

In the Lake District, the lovely town of Windermere — located on the region’s largest lake, Lake Windermere — served as my home base as it was accessible via rail. From there it’s easy to get a cab into the surrounding towns and areas if you won’t be renting a car.

Days 1-2: Liverpool

Those who know about Liverpool typically know it for either a) its association with The Beatles or b) its maritime history. While I certainly experienced a bit of both of those during my stay, what I found beyond that is what I really believe makes the city worth visiting.

How To Get to Liverpool from Manchester:

After flying into MAN airport, it’s an easy and quick train into Liverpool. My journey took just over and hour and only cost £15.

Day One:

After checking into your hotel or dropping your luggage, choose from a few of the local museums for an introduction to the city.

The Museum of Liverpool is a great way to learn about the heritage of the city (and it’s free.) After years of visiting the Tate Britain and Tate Modern in London, I loved the space and collection at the Tate Liverpool. It’s also a great time to check out Albert Dock, a complex of historic and modern dock and warehouse spaces filled with cute restaurants and shops (and home to the Tate!) If you’re interested in the maritime history of the city, you can catch Merseyside Maritime Museum here as well.

Another fantastic option for the afternoon is the Open Eye Gallery, the only gallery devoted solely to photography in Northwest England. Exhibitions change regularly, but they tend to feature both local and international works.

It’s Time to Hit the Pubs

After a bit of culture, it’s time to get to what I consider the shining star of Liverpool: the pubs, the people!

Hanging out solo in a pub is almost always one of my favorite things to do in the U.K., but never have I had more fun or made more friends than in Liverpool. I had heard that the people in Northern England were on a whole other friendliness level, and for that reason I recommend heading out for an evening of pub food and drink, even if drinking is not really your thing. In fact Liverpool has repeatedly been recognized as one of the friendliest cities in the world. You will leave with new friends, and you’ll likely have a list of local recommendations for your next day.

Day Two

It’s time to dive into Beatles-mania. Even if you aren’t a huge fan of the group, their impact on music and pop culture cannot be denied. Start with The Beatles Story, located back near Albert Dock, and continue on to the British Music Experience for a wider look at musical influence and impact from the country. Big fans of The Beatles will also want to check out The Cavern Club (where the group got their break.)

From here you can explore the beautiful Georgian Quarter, stopping for lunch and/or a pint. Pop into the enormous Liverpool Cathedral (Britain’s largest, actually) while you’re at it.

For your final evening, I can’t recommend The Everyman Theater highly enough. Though I only attended one performance (Fiddler on the Roof!) I fell in love with the intimate stage setup and company of actors. Book your tickets in advance if you can, and dine on Hope Street before a show.

Be sure to check for local events before your trip — that’s how I ended up at St. George’s Hall celebrating St Pepper at 50, a series of performances by top Indian musicians and a look at how they influenced the famous album. As a European Capital of Culture, the city always has incredible goings-on that you will want to partake in to round out your visit.

Favorite Liverpool Pubs

• The Grapes: I ran into some of the cast of the theater performance I went to at this legendary local spot. Comfortable and classic.
• The Philharmonic: One of the prettier pub interiors I’ve ever seen, and plenty of local brews on tap for your drinking pleasure.
• Peter Kavanaugh’s: Another spot that gets points for its quirky interior — a lively spot to grab a drink and meet some new friends.
• The Belvedere: an old school pub also in the Georgian Quarter that feels a little bit hidden (in the best way.)

Where To Eat in Liverpool

My favorite spot (Clove and Hitch) has since closed :/ but here are my still-standing favorites!

• 60 Hope Street: lunch, dinner, afternoon tea…pick one – you’ll love it.
• Lunya (and coming soon, Lunyanita!): My very favorite. Catalan cafe and deli!
• Leaf: Fresh cafe bites and coffee/tea
• Mowgli: Fantastic casual Indian street food
• The Art School Restaurant: great prix-fixe menus with an emphasis on local ingredients.
• Baltic Market: Liverpool’s street food market (open Thurs-Sun) that features local, independent food producers.

Where To Stay in Liverpool

Titanic Hotel: located in a recently renovated former warehouse, it’s now one of the nicest spots in Liverpool to stay (whether you’re a fan of the film or not!) A fantastic value with luxury touches and tons of spaciousness (seriously, some of the bigger standard hotel rooms I’ve ever seen,) it’s just over a mile from the main part of town but certainly walkable and definitely worth it.

Days 3-5: The Lake District

From Liverpool or Manchester, you can catch a train to Windermere station to access one of the most beautiful parts of all England. The train to/from Manchester is often direct, so be sure to check the schedule in advance!

Both England’s most popular national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s hard to imagine missing this as a part of your stay in Northern England.

The Lake District is your English countryside dreams come to life. Plan your days around the following:

• Time spent in (the right) Bed and Breakfast.
• Walks and/or boat time on the lake.
• Pub stops along your walks.

For me, Lindeth Fell Country House falls at the top of the list for favorite places I’ve stayed…ever. From the setting — a historic home turned B&B complete with English gardens, a view of the lake, and a Union Jack flowing in the wind. Then add three of the loveliest ladies as your staff, bringing you a delicious full English breakfast every morning along with your choice of paper, elegant individual rooms (some with fireplace,) and a champagne high tea set in the parlour? Did I mention the baked goods are all made fresh in-house?

If you can bring yourself to leave the comforts and delights of your accommodation, there is boundless natural beauty waiting for you outside the front door. I found some of my favorite views just wandering close to the property (Lindeth Fell is set in the countryside a bit outside the town,) there are plenty of paths to keep the nature and possibly even literature lover in you alive.

Best Lake District Walks (Near Windermere)

Since it was light until 10 or 11 pm when I visited, I was able to walk long distances daily.  I recommend setting out as early as suits you and walking until you get tired! Then plan to take the bus back to where you started. My favorite walks were mostly along the route from Ambleside to Grasmere. This is also a great resource for planning your walks.

Get a map from the Visitors Centre or add these stops on your Google Maps.

• Rydal Mount and Rydal Hall: The former being a former home of Wordsworth and the latter being a beautiful castle (be sure to see the waterfall on the grounds!)
• Loughrigg Fell
• Orrest Head
• Grasmere
• Ambleside

Where To Eat in the Lake District

• Sawrey Country House: some of the best fish ‘n’ chips I’ve had in all my life.
• The Angel Inn: a lovely pub with great views of the lake and a pretty interior.
• The Lamplighter: classic spot best known for its Sunday lunch.
• Grasmere Gingerbread: world-famous spicy-sweet gingerbread that’s worth a stop!
• The Wild Boar: a grill and smokehouse with memorable mains.

What to Do in the Lake District

• Hill Top: picturesque English village that includes the home of Beatrix Potter!
• Dove Cottage: William Wordsworth’s former home and current museum in Grasmere
• Windermere Lake Cruises: see the lakes from the water!

Other than the boat service and your feet, there are great local buses running routes to all the towns and popular walk spots. I also recommend stopping at The Badger Bar at The Glen Rothy Hotel along your walk from Ambleside to Grasmere!

Day 6-7: Manchester

Ah, Manchester. I visited the city not long after the terrible attacks that shook the city and the world. There were still flowers on display in city squares to honor the victims.

Still the Mancunians (citizens of Manchester) I had the pleasure of meeting truly impressed me with their strength and optimism. Both street art and conversation seemed to mix remembrance with a sense of ‘carrying on.’

The symbol of Manchester is and always has been the Worker Bee.  Dating back to the city’s role in the Industrial Revolution, it finds relevance and meaning for the hardworking and resilient nature of the people there today.

Learn about the past, immerse yourself in the present, and enjoy the cosmopolitan food, drink, and art to be found.

What to See in Manchester

John Rylands Library // Chetham’s Library

Two beautiful spaces for the book lover and the non-book enthusiast alike.

Street Art + The Northern Quarter 

This area was the highlight of Manchester for me. The Northern Quarter is both trendy and hipster, and regardless of how you feel about that, you’ll love the murals dotting its city walls and the cute cafes and shops throughout.

Chinatown // The Village // Rusholme (Curry Mile)

Have a look at the diversity and international culture represented in these unique neighborhoods, each of which tells part of the city’s story.

Manchester Art Gallery // Whitworth Art Gallery

Fantastic collections worth seeing (and both have free entry!) Whitworth has a focus on modern art, while Manchester Art Gallery features a range of European art periods.

The Shambles

A quaint, historic square including one of the only remaining Tudor buildings in the city.

Manchester Guided Tours

I highly recommend these local walking tours as a way to introduce yourself to the city or dive deeper into it. The public tours taking place daily are a mere £10 to join, and you’ll learn so much more about Manchester than you could on your own.

Manchester Town Hall

A splendid Neo-Gothic structure that is stunning from the outside even if you choose not to visit the interior. Currently under renovation, you may also visit the interior on a city walking tour.

Altrincham 

Loved visiting this neighborhood which is easily accessible via the MetroLink tram (about 2o minutes from the city centre.) The market is the absolute highlight of any visit — it’s open 9 am-10 pm daily (except it closes at 5 pm on Sundays and please note: not open on Monday.)

Where to Eat in Manchester

• Altrincham Market: so. much. goodness. My favorites were Tender Cow and Little Window.
• Evelyn’s Cafe: probably the first place I’d head to if back in Manchester. Get the fried chicken!
• Rudy’s: delicious Neopolitan-style pizzas, multiple locations.
• Northern Soul Grilled Cheese: just what it sounds like!
• Pie & Ale: truly English dining, done right!
• Ancoats General Store: great for a coffee or beer stop! Friendly place.
• This & That: no-frills Indian canteen with cheap, authentic eats.
• The Refuge by Volta: small plates and big interiors.

Manchester Pubs and Bars

• Marble Arch Inn: This classic old pub was my very favorite in the city.
• Albert Schloss: The floral entrance is just the beginning of a beautiful experience. Bavarian bier hall.
• Grand Pacific: Chic Asian fusion spot with craft cocktails.
• The Alchemist: modern, inventive cocktails complete with matching interiors.
• Peveril of the Peak:  an older pub with all the character!

Where to Stay in Manchester

I loved my stay at the Radisson Blu Edwardian Manchester but also heard rave reviews about King Street Townhouse and The Midland.

The RB Edwardian was not only in a great location, it had a pool and steam room (goodbye, jetlag) and views like this with breakfast…

May you love Northern England with all the fervor of a roaring football match. I believe these three spots are some of the best places to visit in England outside of London/

And for the love of all things holy, please eat as many sticky toffee puddings as you can get your hands on whilst in England.

Cheers! xx

Flight to Manchester…now boarding!

Disclosure: my trip to Northern England was made possible by Visit Manchester, Love Great Britain, and Virgin Atlantic. All thoughts and opinions are strictly my own!

More Northern England Cities to Check Out:

• Leeds

• York

• Chester

Northern England Map for Planning

The post Beyond London: Places to Visit in Northern England appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Explore the city’s top spots and find the most vibrant street art of Bristol, England with me now!

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A Guide to Bristol Street Art (And More)

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Of all the interests I’ve developed over the years, one I never expected to find myself enjoying so much is street art.

Most definitions make a distinction between street art and graffiti, though both are created in public spaces and often without permission. Among the differences: street art is constructive whereas graffiti is destructive, street art is about its audience whereas graffiti is about its artist. And while graffiti is often thought of as delinquent and defacing, street art is becoming prized, praised, and in some cases…sold in galleries.

I suppose what fascinates me most about street art is the manner in which it expresses the political and social issues of its environment. I’ve become more and more enthralled with street art living in San Francisco, but it all began with traveling.

So when I had the chance to visit Bristol, an English city known for its thriving street art scene (and one where the world’s most famous street artist got his start,) I set off on the quick train ride from London to see it for myself. I quickly learned that while Bristol isn’t as well-known to travelers, it’s beloved by Brits for its high-quality of life and has a ton of city pride. Aside from its rich local culture (they even have their own dialect and currency!) Bristol has grown to become the European capital of street art.

Start with a Bristol Walking Tour

The best introduction to Bristol’s street art is through Where the Wall Bristol walking tour. It’s a lively, educational, and thoroughly entertaining overview of the city’s past and present street art culture, created by people who actually know *gasp* Banksy and many of the other artists from the city. They also make a fantastic Bristol Street Art map you can purchase if you prefer to seek them out on your own.

When they called street art ‘a direct form of free expression in this world of decreasing artistic vocal platforms,’ I knew we were on the same page.

My tour began, fittingly, with a Banksy piece called “The Well-Hung Lover.” Now before you chuckle too much, have a look at the image, which was overwhelmingly voted by Bristolians to be preserved on its original wall:

Throughout the city you’ll find not only local artistic expression but also the commissioned works of some of the world’s most respected street artists.

Another favorite thing about street art is how public and accessible it makes art. It isn’t something just be viewed in a museum or put on a pedestal — it is a living, breathing form of expression and often a reflection of politics and culture.

My last point as to why street art is amazing (I swear:) it is impermanent. Though some works or spaces are untouched out of respect for the artist, many others consistently rotate and change. I love the idea that the artist creates knowing that his or her art may not last long; that’s not why they continue to create. It is materialized in a public space for the eyes of others, but there has to be detachment to the lasting nature of art painted on a shared surface.

From Harbourside and the trendy Wapping Wharf to the Old City and elegant Clifton Village, there’s so much to explore in Bristol. But if street art is the focus of your day or your visit, here are the areas you’ll find most of it concentrated in:

Where to Find Bristol Street Art

Stokes’ Croft and Gloucester Road

The Bohemian heart of Bristol that is almost like an outdoor gallery.

Nelson Street

Larger scale murals that create a visually fascinating downtown. Be sure to look up!

North Street

The area where Upfest, one of the largest street art festivals, is held — with some remnants of the work from it.

M Shed Museum

This worthwhile (free) museum tells the story of the city and has some preserved pieces (including Banksy’s Tesco Value Petrol Bomb and The Ferryman.) This was one of my favorite experiences in Bristol, and I almost overlooked it.

Banksy Bristol

You now know where to find his two most famous pieces — the Well-Hung Lover and Mild Mild West — above. Another worth seeking out is ‘The Girl with the Pierced Eardrum’ in Hanover Place. There are also other Banksys on outskirts of the city, as well as Bedminster where many new artists are emerging. The city is covered in street art, so you can always walk around and see what you can find yourself once you’ve got your bearings and context.

And I couldn’t leave you without some suggestions for where to eat and stay! Here’s where to fuel up in between all the walking you’ll be doing:

  

Bristol Restaurants I Loved:

• St Nicholas Market (many delicious food options in the heart of Old City)
• *The Canteen (an institution! Come for the food, drink, and live music)
• *Shop 3 Bistro (comfort fine dining; when I asked a local their favorite hidden spot this was the answer!)
• Pieminster (Savory pies)
• Pinkmans (Bakery)
• Thali Cafe (Indian, four locations in Bristol)
• Little Victories (Coffee)
• The Apple (Bristol’s floating bar)
• *Bristol Cider Shop (amazing cider selection and friendly company)
• The Milk Thistle (incredible cocktails at this Speakeasy)
• *The Clifton (my favorite pub!)

*all of these are fantastic, but my personal favorites have the little star next to them!

Best Bristol Accommodation:

(High-end) Hotel du Vin (boutique style + a focus on wine never hurts.)
(Mid-range) Brooks Guesthouse (Stay in an airstream on the roof like I did!)
(Backpacker) Full Moon Backpackers (room decorated by street artists!)

Bristol Sightseeing

• The SS Great Britain (Harbourside)
• Clifton Suspension Bridge (Clifton)
• Colorful houses and cozy cafes of Clifton (a very charming part of town.)
• Take one of the ferries across the harbour (if the weather is nice!)
• See the views from Cabot Tower

For more of the best things to do in Bristol, check out this post from local blog Bridges and Balloons.

No matter what part of the city you choose to explore, there’s no doubt you’ll get a taste of what makes the city so exciting. The culture and creativity feels like energy pulsing in the streets, yet you still get the calm of the surrounding countryside.

That said, what stands out to me most about Bristol is how much the people who live there seem to love it. Just as New York City is not what most of America is like, I really believe it’s important to venture outside of London to see more of the U.K. (Guilty as charged!)

You won’t see as many tourists here, but you will see the famous Bristol street art…and experience a bit more of British daily life and all that makes this country one of my very favorites. <3

Disclosure: My trip to Bristol was made possible by a partnership with Visit Britain and British Airways. All thoughts and opinions shared here are truly and strictly my own.

<< read more UK travel guides >>

The post Hey Street Art Fans, Here’s the One City You Need to See. appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

I have this strange ritual I repeat every time I land in Paris.

I almost don’t want to tell you about it, because I am aware that it’s random and a bit odd. But it takes me right back to some of the happiest moments of my life. So, I hold onto the habits (and even come clean with them here, to you.)
After dropping off my bags where I’m staying, is to immediately head to the nearest French chain grocery store — Carrefour, Monoprix, it matters not. The red lipstick and ballet flats emerge, and calm comes over me as I take to the Parisian streets.
I then proceed to pick up the same four things: a bit of both carottes rapées and celery rémoulade salads, (I told you this was random…) a wheel of cheese (the stinkier the better,) and a bottle of French red wine that’s under 10 euros. Perhaps I also get a fresh baguette.

This is my simple ritual.

I once saw Paris in a Bollywood film. It was the first film I ever watched in India. And though my plan was to head home from Italy after months of traveling, something about seeing Paris on the screen (in India, of all places) meant that I had to go there.
And so although it made no practical sense, and though I had been before a handful of times, I made plans to spend a month living in Paris. I wanted to linger. I wanted to relax there.

I found a cheap apartment, the kind you can’t fully stand up in, through a friend-of-a-friend. He was an American and an officer in the Navy, enough of a dreamer and a Francophile to keep a pied-a-terre in one of the nicest parts of the city. It was a former maid’s quarters, with a toilet in the hall and a switch on the wall to turn the water from the tiny sink to the shower stall…but it was Paris, and for a short month, it was mine.

So perhaps it was this first “real” experience that left me craving an appartment stay in Paris whenever my mind wanders to a distant place. I almost wish Paris wasn’t this place for me because it’s so cliche. But it happened, and the city is one of my favorite places on Earth to be romantic. And I don’t even need anyone but myself for that to be the case. (In fact, I prefer being in Paris alone!)

So while I’ve stayed in some beautiful hotels in Paris (this one is still my favorite,) here are the reasons I’ll always opt for renting an apartment in Paris:

The chance to feel like you live in Paris. (A girl can dream, right?)

To have your neighborhood pâtisserie and market, if only just for the week. (Utilisez votre français!)

To have access to a kitchen to enjoy the treats you find at French markets and shops. (Le Bon Marche, anyone?)

To experience residential areas of the city, where there is a lower concentration of tourists and visitors. (This helps with the pretending like you live there part.)

To more intimately know one arrondissement of the many magical parts of Paris. (My favorites are Le Marais (this stay,) Saint Germain-des-Pres, and Republique.)

I have gotten in the habit of choosing a different neighborhood to use as a base and home for longer stays, and it’s my favorite way to explore not just Paris but any city. I try to stay mostly around there and act (i.e. pretend) that I live there as much as I can. (Especially well-suited to Paris, if you ask me.)

To have a place to call your own, to create the habits and the memories that stay with you long after you leave. (Clearly, mine do!)

French friends are quick to remind me that “a vacation in Paris is not the same as living in Paris.” That is to say, that the fantasy of being there temporarily is different from the reality of living there (even if it is in an apartment.)

Still, even if it is a short-lived reverie, it remains a dream in which I can live…so long as there are apartment rentals and cheap plane tickets. <3

Merci beaucoup to Cobblestone Paris for hosting my stay.

(They even have a local come and greet you when you arrive!)
Minimum stay is often as few as three nights.
The apartment featured is called ‘La Charme du Marais’ if you wish to stay there

~

More Paris Stories:

Paris in Black and White // The City of (Unexpected) Love // The Beauty of the French Pharmacy

The post An Apartment in Paris is Always a Good Idea appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

So many choices!

It can be overwhelming to choose a spot to stay in a city as massive and diverse as London. As in any great city, there are many sides to it. Luckily, the multiple personalities of London can be experienced through its many neighborhoods. One great way to discover the city on a deeper level is to explore a single area in more depth. Choose a certain part of the city to base yourself in during your trip, and with a little wandering plus healthy curiosity…voila!

In truth I have spent most of my time in the British capital staying with friends. Still, these are the best places I have stayed at across many of my visits, (and what I can vouch for that’s not a couch!) Coincidentally, they are all located in favorite parts of the city.

Here are my recommended places for where to stay in London, organized by neighborhood and described at different price points:

Chelsea: Cheval Residences Phoenix House at Sloane Square

A comfortable, luxurious spot in one of my absolute favorite parts of London. It feels like part-hotel, part-flat complete with a full kitchen but with hotel level service and personal touches. Best suited to the business traveler who wants a touch of home.

Shoreditch: The Hoxton

This hotel is trendy East London at its best. At the heart of the artsy action, it’s got a bustling lobby and individually designed rooms (don’t you just love it when every room at a hotel is not the same!)

Mayfair: The Athenaeum

If you’re after a more luxury hotel experience, it’s tough to beat the Mayfair location of this gem. I felt both spoiled and comfortable at the same time here, which is hard to accomplish as a hotel. Many of the rooms also have views of adjacent Green Park.

Notting Hill: The Distillery

If you like your stay with a side of gin, you can’t beat the experience at this newly opened hotspot at an ideal Notting Hill location. There are only three rooms, so you’ll want to book well in advance. But if you snag one of them, you’ll be mere steps away from one of the most exciting parts of London (including their gin bar.)

Covent Garden: The Strand Palace

At the recommendation of a friend, I stayed at this large hotel which turned out to be one of the better budget options in central London. If you’re looking for a hotel and not a hostel in the heart of London, it’s hard to beat this place. I was only there one night, but it was around many of the places I needed to be and saved me a lot of time (without costing a ton of money to be in such a great location.)

Notes:

• My favorite hostel in the world is in London. It’s Palmer’s Lodge (Swiss Cottage) and though my true backpacking days are mostly through, I’d stay here again in a heartbeat.
• Cheval Residences has locations all across the city.
• In full disclosure, I had booked several nights with a flat rental company called FG Properties and left after one night. I had a negative experience and would not recommend them.
• I’ve got my eye on the Zetter Townhouse or the Stafford London (recently renovated) for my next stay in central London.
• Another side note: I was invited to dine at The Athenaeum and The Hoxton’s restaurants and really, really enjoyed both meals. I’m not one to enjoy hotel food, but both were exceptional!

More London Guides:

What To See in London // Where To Eat in London

The post London Guide: Where to Stay appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

You heard it here first…despite any preconceived notions about British food, London is one of the world’s best cities for food. Part of this is a revival of traditions and local flavors, and part is its embrace of authentic global cuisine.

On my most recent visit, I planned the larger part of my day around where I’d be eating. I sought out exemplary gastropubs, expanded my curry repertoire, and even sat down for my first formal English afternoon tea. What follows are my recommendations for where to eat whilst in London, tried, tasted, and true and sourced everywhere from food blogs and chefs to local Londoners.

As a general rule, you’ll want to make reservations (sometimes as little as a day in advance.) The formality of the reservations system is a bit more alive and well in the U.K. than elsewhere. It can’t hurt!

So without futher adieu…

Classic British Fare

Your first priority (in my opinion,) should be the places that are creating exceptional modern British cuisine rooted in local traditions. Whether an established favorite or a newly opened hot spot, there are plenty of options to taste the best of Britain today.

• Fish and chips at Rock and Sole Plaice (my favorite)
  47 Endell St. (Covent Garden)
• Fine British dining at The Game Bird (best I’ve had in London)
  The Stafford Hotel, 16-18 St James’s Place (Green Park)
• The tasting menu at The Clove Club (with wine pairings!)
  Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St (Shoreditch)
• Go old school at Rules (one of London’s oldest restaurants)
  35 Maiden Ln (Covent Garden)
• Or go new and trendy at Pollen Street Social (more affordable at lunch)
  8-10 Pollen St. (Mayfair)

Pictured: Haddock and chips with mushy peas and a side of curry sauce // The signature dish at The Game Bird at the Stafford Hotel

Pub Food

• Kitty Fisher’s
  10 Shepherd Market (Mayfair)
  
• The Anchor & Hope
  36 The Cut (Southwark)
  
• Harwood Arms
  Walham Grove (Fulham)
  
• The Princess of Shoreditch
  76 Paul St (Shoreditch)
  
• The Sands End
  35-137 Stephendale Rd. (Fulham)
  

High Tea

• Flemings Mayfair
  7-12 Half Moon St. (Mayfair)
• Sketch London
  9 Conduit St (Mayfair)
• The Ritz
  150 Piccadilly (Green Park)
  

Afternoon Tea at Flemings Mayfair

A Proper Curry

(Best Indian food I’ve eaten outside of India.)

• Meraz Cafe
  56 Hanbury St. (Spitalfields – just moved) 
• Dishoom
  Locations in Shoreditch, Covent Garden and King’s Cross (Shoreditch is my favorite.)
  7 Boundary St (Shoreditch)
• Gymkana
  42 Albemarle St. (Mayfair)
• Hoppers (Sri Lankan)
  49 Frith St (Soho)
• Muhib (Brick Lane)
  73 Brick Lane

Dishoom Shoreditch is styled as a Bombay cafe.

Dinner with a View

• Darwin Brasserie at Sky Garden
  20 Fenchurch St. (The City)
• Babylon at Kensington Roof Gardens
  99 Kensington High St. (Kensington)
• Duck and Waffle
  Heron Tower at 110 Bishopsgate (The City)
  

English meats for sampling at Borough Market

Other Favorites!

• Coffee @ Monmouth
  Locations all over the city, my favorite is…
  27 Monmouth St (Covent Garden)
• Drinks underground @ Freud
  198 Shaftesbury Ave (Covent Garden) 
• Snacks @ The Kati Roll Company
  24 Poland St. (Soho)
  
• Drinks and the venison puffs (trust me) @ Yautacha
  15-17 Broadwick St. (Soho)
• Wine and scene @ Gordon’s Wine Bar
  47 Villiers St (Covent Garden)

I’ll leave you with the two rules of eating in London:
1) Don’t skip the markets – at a minimum, stuff your face at Borough.
2) Never, ever skip the sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

For favorite pubs, refer to this post!

For where to stay, including a gin hotel you can roll upstairs to, refer here!

Happy London dining!!

xx

The post London Guide: Where to Eat appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Ah, London. The global city with its uniquely British charm. There’s no place quite like it, and with each visit I come to know and love it all the more.

So when the call came to explore the city on a scavenger hunt-type challenge, I jumped at the chance. Flights to the UK from the US are at an all-time low (I once said I’d fly there in a heartbeat if I could fly under $600, and my friend flew out to join me from SF for only $400 roundtrip.) That combined with a (finally) favorable exchange rate for the dollar made for a visit in which London became more accessible than ever.

What follows is a collection of my favorite spots in the British capital — those I recently discovered on this unique latest visit, as well as tried-and-true favorites that I never skip. With so many options, you can choose-your-own-adventure based on your style and interests.

Why one week? I’ve often said that one week is ideal for exploring London. Whether a first-time visitor or a frequent traveler ready with Oyster card in hand and favorite pub in mind, there is always so much to do and see. A week allows you to discover different sides of the multi-faceted city at a somewhat relaxed pace.

It used to be that London seemed so expensive (especially for Americans,) that each minute had to be maximized to justify the high cost. Yet it wasn’t until I slowed down a bit, relaxed my agenda, and experienced the city as friends who live there do…that I really came to understand it. With a lower exchange rate than ever before, it’s become less of a luxury to see London in this way.

No matter your approach, here’s the general idea I live by when I’ve got one week in London:

Recipe For a Lovely London Day

Tea + POI (place of interest) + long meal or more tea + next POI or lounging in the park + aimless wandering + pub = London happiness.

The part-time traveler’s balance is deciding what requires planning and structure, and what can be left open and flexible. For this reason, I’ve listed below some highlights of what you may want to see or experience in this great global city. Instead of listing out day-by-day and hour-by-hour (you can find many of these online,) I’m sharing a gentler, more self-driven approach to discovering all that makes London one of the finest cities on the planet.

My experience as a first-time visitor (or, in guiding them) proves to be quite different from what I do now that I visit regularly, so I’ve divided this guide into two parts. I’ve included answers to your most frequently emailed questions, and while I’m no local, I have perhaps more experience visiting London than any other city!

First up, first-timers!

First Time Visitors to London

Generally first-time visitors to London want to organize their days around what they’ll see, as opposed to where to eat (guilty) or which neighborhood to explore. There are many good apps these days that can help you plan your trip, but what I find most helpful is to drop pins or save starred places on your map app of choice. This way you can view everything that is close together and spend less time transitting between.

Must See

• Big Ben and Parliament
• Westminster Abbey
• Buckingham Palace (wave hello to the queen!)
• All the museums! The National Gallery, British Museum, and Tate Modern are tops.
• The Tower of London and Tower Bridge

Notes:
Consider the London Pass if it makes sense for the attractions you plan to go to.
A double decker bus ride is a great way to see lots in a short amount of time (did this on my first ever visit.)

Nice to See

• Theatre on the West End (I saw Half a Sixpence on my last visit – recommended!)
• Borough Market (a must for foodies.)
• Other museums: Victoria and Albert, Natural History Museum, Tate Britain, Churchill War Rooms…to name a few!
• Explore East London, including the street art and vintage shops of Shoreditch.
• More parks! Green Park, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, and Regent’s Park are all favorites.
• See The City from the Thames – take a boat ride on the river.
• Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre

With any extra time be sure to tailor to your own interests. Part of the beauty of London is the diversity of what it offers. If you love the Tube as much as I do, you might check out the London Transport Museum. Book fiends would do well to peruse the British Library or the city’s many bookstores. Beatles fan? There’s Abbey Road. You might wish to sample as many curries in East London as possible, or chase the city’s most beautiful staircases (yes, I did this, and yes, it was awesome.)

Or, simply take the time to do what I have done in all visits minus the first: scratch sightseeing in favor of lounging in pubs and walking around aimlessly.

Repeat Visitors/Wannabe Londoners:

(Good news: there are no must-sees!)

With time on your side, to me repeat visits to London should consist mostly of a few things you didn’t get to on your last visit plus a lot of time spent at the pub or walking around with eyes wide open.  The idea to design your day around a point-of-interest or two, and allow the rest of your day to unfold naturally around you.

Discovering a neighborhood is my favorite thing to do in London (and in Paris or San Francisco, for that matter.)  Base yourself in one and become a local for a week, and I guarantee you you’ll see London in a completely different light.

Classics to Revisit
I love a good return visit to the Tower of London (I just dig it,) and never miss the chance to stare up at Big Ben from as many iconic viewpoints as possible. Borough Market is another old friend I never pass up, though I would make it a point to explore at least one other market during your stay. We all tend to have our favorite streets and pubs, and while certainly not required, part of what I think makes revisiting a city again and again so great is returning to those on each visit.

Here are a few to consider on your next trip.

Neighborhoods to Explore

• Notting Hill
• Kensington
• Shoreditch
• Mayfair
• Primrose Hill
• Hampstead Heath

Pubs to Sit In

• The Churchill Arms
• Mr Fogg’s Tavern
• The Prospect of Whitby
• The Blackfriar
• Ye Old Cheshire Cheese

Markets to Peruse:

• Borough Market (because, always.)
• Broadway Market (Hackney)
• Maltby Market (Bermondsey)
• Columbia Road Flower Market (Tower Hamlets)
• Portobello Road Market (Notting Hill)
• Camden Market

Views to Chase

• Primrose Hill
• Sky Garden
• Tate Modern terrace

Notes:
Though I’m personally pretty into classic/historic pubs, most of the time the best pub in London is the one closest to you (your ‘local.’)

My personal favorite markets (not counting Borough) are Broadway and Maltby Street.

Some people love the view from The London Eye or The Shard. I personally don’t find them worth the expense.

Bring your camera along! One of my absolute favorite things to do in London is stroll with my camera, mostly because I notice all the beautiful details when I do. 

My preferred way of getting to know a city more intimately is to rent a flat for the week and really get to know that neighborhood. The Underground connects all the various parts of London with relative ease, so you could in theory take this approach for part of your day and then stay more local to your area for the other part. What ideally we’re trying to avoid is running amok across London, checking off bucket list items (unless, of course, you participate in a scavenger hunt challenge!)

Another option for return visits is to divide and conquer by neighborhood. Here are the seven I would explore in a week, in order of priority:

Day One // Westminster

Sights: Westminster Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Buckingham Palace

Day Two // The City + Southwark

Sights: Tower of London, Tower Bridge, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Borough Market, The Globe Theater, Tate Modern

Day Three // Covent Garden/Soho

Sights: Shopping, street performers, Neal’s Yard, people watching, great restaurants.

Day Four // East London/Shoreditch

Sights: Street art, Shoreditch High Street, Brick Lane (grab a curry!,) vintage shopping

Day Five // Notting Hill

Sights: Portobello Market, mews, antique shops, lovely streets.

Day Six // Chelsea and Kensington

Sights: Kensington Palace and Gardens, V+A Museum, beautiful flats.

Day Seven // Camden and Primrose Hill, or Hampstead Heath

Sights: Parks, city views, more beautiful homes and pubs.

If all else fails, ignore all above advice and just remember the basics: Bring an umbrella. Prepare your pinky for lots of teacup lifting (and perhaps a pint or two.) Leave room (in your schedule, and in your luggage!) for London to surprise and delight you. Alternate between the seeing of sights and the leisurely-spent afternoons pretending to be British. Carry on.

What parts of London do you love the most? I’d love to hear about them in the comments below!
My visit to London was in partnership with Visit Britain and British Airways. I also spent an extra week there independent of my press visit. All opinions are of course…my own.

More London Guides

Where To Stay // Where to Eat 

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The post One Week in London Itinerary appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

On this day, anybody and everybody is Irish.

“I went to America once.”

“Oh yeah, where’d you go? It’s a big country,” I said, stating the obvious in my jet-lagged state.

“VEGAS.” The eyes of my cab driver from the airport in Dublin lit up. “We went to an Irish pub,” he continued.

I try not to raise an eyebrow as I chuckle. “You came all the way from Ireland and ended up in a pub? An Irish one, no less?”

“Yes. As soon as I realized how expensive a pint was compared to back home though, I went in search of something different.”

Something different was the bar at Planet Hollywood. A bucket of Coors Lite for $10. I suppose that is quite American.

But what’s quite Irish, I wondered?

This American would not be caught drinking Budweiser in Dublin, as I had been offered (it’s the best beer!) nearly ten years ago on my first visit to Ireland. I was a student abroad in Barcelona, hanging out in Temple Bar for the weekend, and giddy at the prospect of ordering a pint of fresh Guinness as a nineteen-year-old.

Although I finally made it to the Guinness Factory this time around, what I encountered in Ireland during St. Patrick’s Day turned out to be much more than green beer and shamrocks (though everyone is wearing real shamrocks, like the actual plant, and it is awesome.)

What: St. Patrick’s Day and Festival

Where: Dublin, Ireland and surrounds

When: March 17th

How: Fly into Dublin (SF friends, there’s a direct flight now on Aer Lingus!)

St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin

How to Partake in the Celebrations

Arrive early into Dublin to allow a day or two of exploring Dublin before the festival and festival events. I’ve listed some recommendations for how to spend your time below.

Dublin is rather walkable, and I preferred to stay in the city center for this reason. Otherwise, the city bikes and public bus are easy to use.

On the day, check out the main event: the St. Patrick’s Day Festival and parade. It’s full of families and Irish pride, and less green beer and intoxication. Get there early (before 10 am) to snag the best spots along the two-mile parade route, and get ready to enjoy music, dance, art, and creative performance on the streets, from the traditional to the modern and from local to international. You can also purchase tickets for reserved seats in the grandstands in Parnell Square.

The parade (here’s a map of the route) runs through the city from Parnell Square in the north to St. Patrick’s Cathedral to the south. It begins at 11 am, and the most direct views will be visible from O’Connell Street and Dame Street. The energy is palpable and the air buzzing with Irish cheer (a great feeling!) Don’t forget your face paint and/or shamrock wear.

That evening, there’s no better way to cap off a day of activity than in a pub. Choose one that’s filled with families or seems light on the debauchery side if you’re feeling low-key. It’s that simple!

After Your Dublin St. Patrick’s Day: What To Do and See

Eat!

Fish and Chips:
Still my favorite dish to enjoy anywhere it’s traditional. My longtime favorite is Leo Burdock’s.

Irish Cuisine:
Here are a few I loved:

• The Winding Stair (on top of a bookstore!)
• Matt the Thresher
• Roly’s Bistro
• Chapter One
• The Pig’s Ear

(For more on where to eat in Dublin, check out this helpful piece.)

Drink!

Pubs

I’d go to Ireland just to sit in a pub. I love how central they are to daily life there, and I never fail to make new friends. I still believe Irish people are the friendliest I’ve ever met traveling, and it’s a joy just to share a pint and talk with them about their lives.

It’s easy to find good pubs anywhere in the city (just avoid those near Temple Bar and you’ll generally be good.) A few classic that have been recommended to me include The Bernard Shaw, The Brazen Head, and Toner’s Pub. I enjoyed East Side Tavern, which had live music playing and a St. Patrick’s Day gastropub menu.

P.S. It’s a fact that Guinness tastes better in Ireland. The water and the brewing process in the country are unlike any other you’ve tasted outside of it.

Coffee

The cafe scene is almost as poppin’ as the pub scene. Here are a few worth spending some time in:

• The Fumbally
• The Pepper Pot
• Clement & Pekoe
• Kaph
• Brother Hubbard North

Be Merry!

– Check out traditional Irish music and dancing (also often in local pubs.)
– Take a walk (or a stumble) through the Irish Whiskey and Craft Beer Fair
– Visit the Guinness Factory — a worthwhile museum, but also worth it just for the view from the top of its bar alone. (Be aware that St. Patrick’s is their busiest day of the year.)

Walk around.

– Merrion Square: a beautiful residential area full of charming Georgian houses and Dublin’s famous, brightly-colored doors.
– Grafton Street + Creative Quarter: shopping and street performers (check out Avoca!)
– Ha’penny Bridge: used to cost a ha’penny to cross, now it’s free! A scenic old bridge crossing the River Liffey.
– Temple Bar: not so much a specific bar as an old sand bar, now a tourism draw that’s still worth a walk-around for its lively atmosphere. (It’s one of those places you kind of have to go to say you’ve gone. But enjoy nonetheless!)
– St. Steven’s Green: a giant green space in the middle of the city, it’s one of the most popular Dublin parks.
– St. Patrick’s Cathedral: the largest church in Ireland. And if you’re in town for St. Paddy’s, you must have a look!
– Dublin Castle: A taste of what will hopefully be more Irish castles to come…

Learn about Irish history.

– Take a walking tour…even if you’ve seen sights on your own, locals tell the best stories!
– Learn the significance of the monuments and the GPO (General Post Office) on O’Connell Street.
– Visit the Famine Sculpture, a moving reminder of an important chapter of Irish history.

Get literary.

– See the incredible long room of the Trinity College Library and the Book of Kells, one of the oldest books in the world.
– Geek out at the James Joyce Tower and Museum (especially if you’ve enjoyed Ulysses.)
– Go on a literary pub crawl
– Visit the Dublin Writers Museum

Where to Stay in Dublin for St. Patrick’s Day

These are my travel tips and top picks for Dublin hotels during the St. Patrick’s celebrations. Keep in mind that the parade runs from Parnell Square, so that’s a great place to stay if you want to see the action but not necessarily be right in the middle of it.

• The Dean Dublin: This central hotel is located right next to St. Patrick’s Cathedral so it’s ideal for partaking in festivities. It also has a modern, stylish interior and rooftop bar that make it one of the liveliest spots (can be noisy, though!)
• Castle Hotel: If you’re looking for something a bit more classic and quiet, this Georgian beauty is worth looking at for your stay. It’s elegant, comfortable, and only two minutes walking to O’Connell Street.
• The Wilder: Another favorite spot to stay, The Wilder has that beautiful brick exterior and an interior with a boutique luxury feel that’s tough to beat. It’s also right by St Stephen’s Green, one of my favorite park to walk and relax in in Dublin.

Alternatively, I would do a quick search for an Airbnb to see what’s available. Filter your search by what’s closest to the city center if you want to reduce the hassle of getting through the crowds.

Day Trips from Dublin

I told myself I wouldn’t go back to Dublin unless I saw more of the country, outside of the city. Here are the highlights that I enjoyed most on this trip, not far from Dublin:

Scenic Seaside Towns

• Howth is a beautiful coastal area with cliffs and walking trails that are worth the day/half-day trip there. Just 10 miles outside the city center, it feels worlds apart. You can get there easily on the DART train. Don’t leave without eating fresh seafood.
• Skerries was another smaller town that I really enjoyed. The main sight here are the two old windmills, which give you a feel for the Irish countryside. It’s also a good place to enjoy fresh seafood and a pint, or go for a seaside walk. It’s a little more quaint and less bustling than Howth. Get there easily via the train from Connolly Station.

Visit a Nearby Castle

Ardgillan Castle: a countryside castle home about 30 minutes driving from Dublin.
Powerscourt House: a stunning estate and gardens in Enniskerry, about 45 minutes from Dublin.
Trim Castle: The Irish castle of my dreams (so far,) it’s the largest Norman castle in Ireland and it takes about an hour to get there from Dublin (a great short road trip!)

Ruins of the Ancient East: Longcrew Cairns – ancient tombs and a fascinating megalithic monument that’s over 6000 years old. (Plus, beautiful views of rural Ireland.)

It’s always been curious to me why or how we celebrate being Irish so intensely worldwide, particularly in the United States. It’s quite amazing, really, the way come mid-March we all turn into Irishmen/women. With some of the celebrations I’ve seen in America, I had long wondered with curiosity what it would be like to take the day to the next level…to its homeland.

And while I certainly enjoyed my fair share of Guinness and Irish whiskey, green gear, and Irish flags the day of, what stood out to me most was unexpected.

Instead of partiers stumbling home, I found families gathering and artistic expression in the streets. In the place of leprechaun decor, I found stone castles and green country hills. And beside historic buildings and an iconic literary legacy you can find a blossoming, vibrant, modern European city. What I loved most about St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland had very little to do with the image of it I had in my head.

I went for the beer and joviality, and a little bit of March madness, but found the Ireland I had surely missed on my first visit. Just as there is (much) more to the United States than Las Vegas, there’s a lot of heart, history, and culture beyond the shamrock in Dublin, especially during St. Paddy’s.

Though I’ll admit…it was still pretty fun to wear flashing wear shamrock glasses for the day.

*Huge thanks to Tourism Ireland and Failte Ireland for inviting me to experience St. Patrick’s Day Dublin. Any and all content and opinions written here are entirely and wholly my own. 

The post A Guide to Dublin for St. Patrick’s Day! appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

For what does the city of love and light have to offer a solo traveler?

Love, and light.

You stroll contemplatively. You have days where your only agenda is to go by a certain ice cream shop or pop in to a particular bookstore. You look up at the rows of structured buildings and admire the stretch of intricate, iron balconies placed delicately upon beige facades.

You pick one arrondissement and decide: this is your home for the next two weeks. Maybe later it becomes a month.

You explore the neighborhood, find the cheapest place for wine in the evenings and cafe au lait in the mornings. The pâtissier begins to recognize you as the days pass slowly into evenings. You sit in parks and public squares and watch life and the city go by.

You dine alone for three hours, sit in a cafe with a glass or two or champagne, cherish three courses, and end with a cafe gourmand. No one rushes you. No one hassles you. You write in your journal or lose yourself in thought. And you enjoy every single minute.

Oh! But Paris isn’t for changing planes, it’s for changing your outlook.”

You fill your petit fridge with pungent French cheeses and cheap bottles of good wine. You walk to the open-air market and buy sweet, fresh fruit, or stop in the supermarché to have some tangy celery root remoulade on hand. You make yourself a picnic night after night.

You bike leisurely along the river, or over beneath the Eiffel Tower, just for the tiny thrill of going a bit faster after an aimless stroll.

You greet everyone with ‘bonjour’ and leave everyone with ‘merci, au revoir.’  You overhear conversations in French, and have no idea what they’re saying but you like the way their words echo as they speak.

Perhaps you wear bright red lipstick and little black dresses with colorful scarves or tiny ballet flats. Perhaps you feel elegant just by walking outside. Paris has a way of making you stand up straighter, and also relaxing into your true self. You both care deeply and not at all.

You discover impressive sights, yet cherish more the small street corners or pieces of art or unremarkable but beautiful cafes you never knew you wanted to see. You stumble upon a new favorite arrondissement, and make a note for your next visit.

Paris isn’t just a place for some. It’s a ritual. It’s a song, a dance, and poem that is lived and breathed. It is simple, subtle. It is both refreshingly old and startlingly new.

You connect with Paris because it connects you to yourself. You’re not just there observing through a looking-glass or a camera lens — you are just living. It is both the simplest and most decadent thing you can imagine.

You remember who we you before your heart was ever broken. You love Paris not for who or what or where it is, but for how it brings out the best in you. You adapt — even just for a few days or weeks. You are independent, strong, slow, present.

As a little girl, you always thought Paris was the place you’d go to with the love of your life — there would be hand holding, champagne toasting, and kissing under the Eiffel Tower. It’s a good thing you didn’t wait for that to happen…that’s the danger of letting the world or society or expectations define a person or a place for you. When we simply arrive, let go, and let time or a place or a journey flow, life often surprises us with something even better than we had initially imagined.

When in Paris, go it alone. It is not strange to take yourself on dates. It’s even encouraged that you buy yourself chocolates and pastries, fresh flowers, and fine meals. It’s romance, for one. You can think of nothing you need more in this moment.

Are we romanticizing Paris, even when dreaming of being there alone? Of course. But isn’t it exciting to know that you can live slowly, breathe deeply, and accept things as they are — not as we presume they will be?

Something about the way Paris moves teaches us to reflect it, if we are open to it. We find beauty and peace in simplicity and slow presence, deep thought. We find the beauty in a single moment. And as we see the world, we begin to see ourselves. We find ourselves seeking — and seeing — the beauty in our surroundings, in ourselves.

Respirer Paris, cela conserve l’ame. | Breathe Paris in, it nourishes the soul. – Victor Hugo

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As I pulled my chair in and inched my face closer to the microphone, I thought about what the Finns across from me, who happened to be the lovely people of Radio Helsinki, might ask me about why I was in Finland.

Sure enough, moments later we were live on air (my first live radio interview!) and as the hosts transitioned into English, they prompted the question I knew what coming: “What do you think of Helsinki?”

I had only just arrived that morning. When asked if I was jet-lagged, I took a giant swig from my cup of Finnish coffee for dramatic effect. It was something like 3 am in California. I squinted as I sat there inaudibly, before answering the question.

“I’ve only just arrived, but it’s my first time in the country so I’m looking forward to experiencing this place,” I reply, feeling a surge of caffeine kick in.

“What expectations did you have for the city before you came?”

Without thinking, I answer abruptly: “Not really any, to tell you the truth.”

I get the impression it isn’t the first time they’ve heard this statement. So, I continue, “But I plan to get to know Helsinki through its food. I find it to be the best way to access a new culture and get a true sense of a place.”

What I don’t mention is that I also have no clue about what Finnish food is.

So I resolve to spend the next several days in Helsinki eating, often with new Finnish friends. I find myself repeatedly asking, “What is Finnish food, exactly?”

A few themes emerge in my conversations. There’s a ubiquitous love for rye bread, smoked fish, berries, chocolate, coffee. There’s the occasional mention of reindeer steaks. Most of all, when I ask where my new Helsinki friends eat Finnish food in the city…they tell me “We don’t!”

I find this hard to believe. I almost want to check my phone’s GPS. I am in fact in Finland, right?

Finland’s food scene, with the city of Helsinki at its helm, is just emerging. There’s a sense of mystery, and excitement, around Finnish identity. Shaped in part by Sweden and Russia, both of which Finland was once a part of, the country has only been independent for the last 100 years. It’s also the least densely populated country in Europe. So just as I am learning what it means to be Finnish, what it tastes like to live in Finland…so, it seems, are the Finnish people I’m discussing all of this with.

I can relate. As an American, I’ve always wondered: what exactly is true American food? What I most identify with, as a Californian, is the California cuisine approach — utilizing fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. This approach, across my own country or another, has yet to serve me wrong when searching for the heart and soul of a place’s food (and for the best tastes.)

Fortunately for me, this is the exact approach foodies in Helsinki are taking today. I ask another random Finn (which is a lot of fun, as I found Finnish people to be delightfully shy and subsequently warm and helpful) where he goes for Finnish food.

“We Finns don’t really eat Finnish food out, only at home.”

Well, what’s a traveler in Finland, in search of the finest Finnish foods, to do then?

The answer was clear: stock my tiny studio fridge with Finnish foods and dive in at home. I admit the open-faced sandwiches on fresh rye bread, the nettle salt and yogurts with berries, and most of all the smoked salmon which mysteriously disappeared two days in…these items were indeed a highlight of eating in Finland for me.

Still, I went out in search of more. Whispers of restaurants serving fine Finnish foods began to arise. And just as the country offers exceptional design, thoughtfulness, and a sort of urban wilderness off the plate, so I found these Finnish characteristics on the dining table.

Freshness was the theme throughout, regardless of where I dined. I had fresh pike perch with an anise sauce, I had blini with three types of roe, I had sapas (Finnish tapas!,) goose pie, lamb sausage, you name it. I sampled the salted licorice that still haunts me and I was sure to try lonkero, a mixture of grapefruit and gin that has been called Finland’s national drink.

Nearing the end of my visit, I dared to ask yet again: “What is Finnish food?” To which I heard once again, “I don’t really know.” So I asked where this new friend dines out with their family, when eating outside of the home.

“Usually we get Nepalese food.” I try and hide the puzzled expression from my face. I don’t think I’ve ever even eaten that out at home in San Francisco.

As Helsinki emerges into the global spotlight, and as its food continues to make a statement, it’s becoming less of a secret and more of a source of national pride. The answers to these questions continue to evolve. And I, for one, can’t wait to see what comes next.

One thing that is indisputably Finnish? The one aspect of daily life that no one argues is purely and completely a part of Finland? It’s also the only word that made it from Finnish into English: sauna. And if Finnish people seem shy in the streets and modest in conversation, let me tell you — they are not in the slightest when it comes to the sauna (nudity is the norm.)

The good news for us food-obsessed travelers is, it is customary to both drink and eat during and after a social sauna scene. As much as trends come and go, and as Finland continues to grow and change, I have a feeling the sauna will remain at the heart of what it means to be in Finland. After all, Helsinki’s food scene is just beginning to heat up.

I was a guest of Visit Helsinki at the #HelsinkiSecret residence. All opinions are expressly my own.

What to Eat in Helsinki

Essential Finnish Foods

• Smoked fish (salmon, whitefish, pike perch, Arctic char)
• Game meats (goose, reindeer, duck, moose) and sausages
• Roe (served with blinis was delicious!)
• Berries (lingonberries, blueberries, cloudberries)
• Open-faced sandwiches (extra points if on rye!)
• Coffee (Finns drink more coffee per capita than any other nation in the world.)

Quintessential Finnish Flavors

• Salmiakki (that salted licorice!)
• Faser chocolate (or any Finnish chocolate, really.)
• Sapas (Finnish tapas!)

Recommended Helsinki Restaurants

• Juuri – my favorite spot for Finnish food, by far. One of the best lunch meals I’ve had in recent memory. Also check out Latva’s next door for a cosy underground pub experience.
• Restaurant Meripaviljonki – a scenic spot right on the water. In fact, it’s known as Helsinki’s “floating restaurant.” I didn’t have the highest expectations for the food, but my meal was exceptional. Seafood and fish is the best way to go here.
• Savotta – for more traditional Finnish flavors, including reindeer. Designed more for tourists, but an excellent introduction to traditional Finnish food.

Local Bites

• HelEats: not a restaurant, but a fantastic source of information from local food enthusiasts (also, my guide to what local Finnish treats I had to try)
• Hakaniemi Market Hall – a local market that leaves quite the impression both visually and taste-wise
• Naughty BRGR – delicious Finnish beef, trendy toppings
• If you’re looking to explore a certain part of the city, the hipster Kallio offers a lot in terms of food. I especially loved seeing Teurastamo, an area that is leading the way in Helsinki’s emerging culinary revival.

Best Helsinki Coffee 

• Andante 
• Mood Coffee Roastery
• Maja Coffee
• Cafe Regatta
• Kahvila Savy
• La Torrefazione
• Good Life Coffee

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