Whitefish, MT draws many visitors to its popular ski resort and for its proximity to the stunning Glacier National Park, and rightfully so. It is also a destination in its own right — a welcoming and wonderful small town with bold landscapes right at its doorstep.

For years I’ve felt drawn to Montana. The town of Whitefish is surprisingly well-known given its size; I think that has something to do with its feel both as a chic resort village and hidden mountain escape. With its community feel, fresh mountain air, and a gem of a culinary scene, Whitefish was a great home base for my first stay in the state.

Whether you’re staying there to visit the park or simply to enjoy the town and surrounds itself, there is lots to love about this beautiful part of America. Here is an overview of the top things to do in Whitefish:

Get Outside: Hiking, Biking, and More In Whitefish

Whitefish Trail

With 10+ trailheads and 42 miles of natural surface to walk, bike, or hike on right next to town, there are plenty of scenic views and forested paths to keep any nature-lover happy. Some of the most popular hikes include Lion Mountain and Swift Creek. Whitefish Trail is runner, dog, horse, and kid-friendly.

You find all the trailheads and a trail map here.

Whitefish Bike Retreat

Located just outside town, the Whitefish Bike Retreat is a lodge, hub, and training center created especially for bikers. As someone who had never been on a mountain bike before, I headed out here to learn some new skills and try out some of the nearby trails.

Whether you’re going for the day, camping overnight, or staying at the lodge — or even just popping in for a coffee or a beer during your ride — you’ll find some of the friendliest faces (including cute dogs!) to welcome you. They’re uniquely equipped to help with any and all biking needs, so it’s a good spot to know of if you plan on doing any mountain biking while in town. I highly recommend this spot!

Whitefish Lake

The glacial lake bearing the same name as the town is a favorite spot for visitors and locals alike. In the summer you can lounge in the sun or in shaded areas along the water, or, if you prefer to be active, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and take to the lake. There is also a public boat launch and designated areas for swimming.

Viking Creek Trail

An interpretive trail that’s great for families, you can expect educational signage and a newly groomed trail that feels safe and easy to walk on but fully immersed in the wetlands nature. Look out for the bear claw marks on some of the trees! With accessibility for all visitors, this is one of the best mellow outdoor things to do in Whitefish. It’s also free to access.

Winter Activities vs. Summer Activities

There’s also skiing of course, in the wintertime. Whitefish Mountain Resort is the biggest draw. In the summer you can also seek out mountain biking, hiking, and zip-lining here.

Golfing, rock climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and even skydiving are all ways to get out into the Great Outdoors in and around Whitefish, depending on the weather and your personal thirst for and/or comfort level with adventure.

Side note: if it’s raining, or you don’t want to be outside, check out the Whitefish Theatre Company. They put on excellent productions!

Visit Glacier National Park (A Must)

Going-to-the-Sun Road

The famous Going-to-the-Sun Road is a fantastic way to easily see many of the highlights of the park. Parts of the path are open year-round, but you will want to plan and time your visit based on who the road is open to. At times it’s open to just bikers (as it was during my visit,) and not to motorized vehicles. This is largely dependent on the weather conditions, so be sure to check their website for updates ahead of your trip. Here’s a general overview of the seasonal access in the park:

Open Year-Round: The road from West Glacier to Lake McDonald Lodge

Open to Bikes and Pedestrians Only: Shoulder season (usually May/October)

Open to Cars: Summer (June-Aug/Sept.)

You can rent a car and drive on the road during the summer months. If you’re hiking or biking, you can grab the Whitefish Shuttle from town. They go both to Glacier National Park and to the Whitefish Trailheads mentioned above.

I recommend taking advantage of the small period when the Going-to-the-Sun Road is open to bikes and pedestrians only. Although you’ll have to power your own transportation, you can see more of the park in the same amount of time. While it’s possible you may encounter less-than-favorable weather, you’ll avoid most of the crowds. (Highly recommended.)

You can check out current information, as well as the dates of past openings and closings, on the official Glacier National Park Going-to-the-Sun information page.

And if you’re looking for a guide specific to Glacier National Park (as well as Banff and Jasper) I recommend this one.

Taste the Local Brews and Spirits

Big Sky Brews Cruise

I was able to visit two fantastic local beer spots — Great Northern Brewery and Bonsai Brewing Project — with the help of this great tour (and no need to worry about drinking and driving!)

Spotted Bear Spirits

I loved the cocktails I tasted from this local spirits producer. You can visit their distillery, which uses local and organic botanicals, and try their seasonal cocktail menu, which reflects the changing seasons of Glacier County.

Partake in Some Whitefish Wellness

Yoga at Yoga Hive

I loved the class I took with Yoga Hive Montana, which has locations in downtown Whitefish and nearby Kalispell. Even better are their yoga classes at Whitefish Lodge (if offered.) You can do yoga with a view of the lake and a mimosa afterward!

Himalayan salt treatments at SaltBox

I live for my Himalayan salt lamp at home, so it was a treat to experience the new SaltBox in downtown Whitefish. You can relax in their salt rooms, in which microparticles of salt enable dry salt therapy that can help with breathing, skin, sleep, and overall wellness. They also have an infrared sauna (perfect for cold days or after long hikes.)

Dine Out, Montana Style

The Best Whitefish Restaurants

I’ve got an upcoming post with more details about where to eat in Whitefish.

For now, restaurant highlights include:

• Abruzzo – Italian
• Swift Creek Cafe – American Brunch/Lunch
• Latitude 48 – American/Fusion
• Pescado Blanco – “Mountain Mexican”
• Piggy Back BBQ – great for casual!

How to Get to Whitefish, MT

Whitefish, MT’s closest airport is Glacier Park International, which is a short 15-minute drive to downtown. Several direct flights are available (although some are seasonal,) ranging from Seattle and Denver to Los Angeles and Atlanta. For my Bay Area folks, there is seasonal direct service from OAK on Allegiant, but the trip from SFO with a quick stop in Denver is fine, too. The aforementioned Whitefish Shuttle does airport drop-offs/pick-ups to get you into town. If you fancy taking the train, Amtrak has a station right in the heart of Whitefish. Or, I hear the drive into town (from nearby states) is spectacular!

Where to Stay in Whitefish

The well-established Lodge at Whitefish Lake is popular and so lovely, but so are many of the smaller B&Bs and apartments in town. Here are the best of them:

• Snow Bear Chalets
  3872 Winter Lane
  (P.S.If you stay here or host an event, The Chef Guys are amazing local private chefs for hire.)
• Whitefish Downtown Suites (where I stayed – more like an apt; loved it!)
  115 Central Ave
• Garden Wall Inn
  504 Spokane Ave
• Good Medicine Lodge
  537 Wisconsin Ave
• Hidden Moose Lodge
  1735 E Lakeshore Drive
• Duck Inn
  1305 Columbia Ave

Whether you’re planning a trip and looking for things to do in Whitefish MT or you’re now thinking about going…I hope this sets you up to experience the best of the area! Let me know if I can help with any further questions before or during your trip.

*My trip was made possible with the help of Explore Whitefish, but all opinions and recommendations are completely my own.

Cheers!

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I’m not the first traveler to yearn for Provence. Its many French villages and hill towns are the best places to visit in the South of France. Not to mention its stone castles, hillside olive groves, sidewalk cafes, and lavender fields, all of which are the places travel dreams are made of.

Southern France’s cities are also lively and lovely; I particularly love the areas around Marseille and Nice. Yet it’s the small towns in France that really give you that Provencal glow, the feeling of soft, golden light carried by a faint breeze. It’s the kind that makes you want to skip through fields, or linger on a terrace amongst the streets with the wafting air of fresh pastries.

If you’re planning a trip, I hope you’ll make Provence and its villages part of your stay. Here are the best places to visit in the South of France, designed for a week (or so) depending on how much exploring versus relaxing you want to do.

Provence’s Best French Towns, Hills, and Villages

I recommend choosing a base depending on where you want to focus your time. All of the small French towns in this region are within a day’s driving distance, but I personally recommend minimizing your driving time (although the drives are quite scenic!) Most recently I focused on the Luberon, and it was my favorite part of Provence to date.

For a home base, I’d choose from Avignon (my personal favorite,) Aix-en-Provence (a little larger French town further south,) or Cassis, if you want to be on the coast. All three towns have that French charm and relaxed Provence feel and are well-located for visiting the rest of the area.

You could also stay in the smaller villages listed below, but I personally like to stay centrally in a bigger area and visit these villages by day.

Avignon

Set on the banks of the Rhône River and endlessly charming, Avignon is a wonderful medieval city that still feels like a small village. There are many great places to dine and sip, streets to wander, and sights to see.

Avignon is a great place to stay, and it’s well-connected by train (especially if you’re coming from Paris.) I recommend exploring the city center and its open squares, markets, and cafes. Be sure to check out the lively Rue des Teinturiers for some of the most beautiful architecture and best restaurants.

A little-known fact: Avignon was once the seat of the Catholic Pope (in the 14th century,) before returning its hub to the Vatican. You can visit the Palais des Papes in the city center to learn more.

From Avignon, you can easily visit the neighboring towns below. Each has a distinct beauty and landscape, so they all are worth seeing if you have the time!

Gordes

Gordes might just be the prettiest hilltop village in France.

I loved driving here to explore the cobblestone streets for the day and have lunch. I also recommend having a glass of rosé or a cocktail on the terrace of La Bastide de Gordes, which has one of the best views in town.

Don’t miss the beautiful Senenque Abbey, well-photographed for its surrounding lavender fields.

Roussillon

Roussillon is another hilltop village with a distinct feature — its coloring. Built on and around large ochre deposits, the town’s buildings have a red-orange tint from all the clay.

Aside from checking out the village, you can walk the nature trails amongst the ochre cliffs.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue

A quick stop on your way back to Avignon, L’Isle sur la Sorgue is best known for its antique shops and markets. The ‘island’ town got its name from the canals running through it.

The largest of the antique markets takes place on Sunday morning – prepare to arrive early if you are driving and will need parking.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

A little farther south from Avignon is this wonderful Provencal town. I thoroughly enjoyed dining (and even doing a little shopping) here. There is a truly delightful chocolate shop called Joël Durand that is a must.

Les-Baux-des-Provence

Similar to Gordes, this tiny village on top of a bed of rock is frequently noted as one of France’s most beautiful towns. There are only 22 residents atop the rock, but there are winding cobblestone streets and panoramic views for the visitor.

Arles

I stayed in Arles on one of my first visits to Provence and enjoyed the market, Roman amphitheater, and galleries. If you recognize Arles, it may be because Van Gogh lived here and painted some of his most iconic works of the town.

French Towns: Coast and Nature Focus

Aix-en-Provence

Aix is known for its 1,000 fountains, its wide boulevards and Cours Mirabeau, and sidewalk cafes. It has captured the hearts of artists, writers, and intellectuals who have flocked to the town for centuries.

Cassis

A seaside town on the Mediterranean coast, Cassis is just as romantic as it sounds. It’s a great village to see not far from Marseille. Try some fresh seafood at one of the cafes.

Massif de Calanques

Many visitors to Provence seem to miss these coastal coves and inlets, but they are part of one of the country’s most beautiful national parks. You can opt either to hike or boat alongside the cliffs, stopping to rest at a beach or climbing a hill for some heartstopping ocean views. You can also walk the path from Cassis to the Calanque d’En-Vau, one of the most picturesque.

For more of the best South of France destinations, check out:

• For wine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
• For lavender fields (seasonal,) Valensole
• For nature, Gorges du Verdon
• For more of the Côte d’Azur, Villefranche-sur-mer and Eze (both just outside of Nice.) The seaside cities of Antibes, Monaco, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez are all options as well.

And for more: Provence reading.

Bon voyage mes amis!

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(And why where you stay in Sicily for your holiday makes a difference.)

When it comes to travel, I always believe we should follow the inklings that draw us to a place. And for years I felt the pull to Sicily.

So I did what I always do next…I asked around about where I should stay. Yet the more I asked my fellow travelers if they had been to the island, the more I realized very few people seem to make it to Sicily. The area is not nearly as popular as the main cities and sights in the rest of Italy. (Of course, this turned out to be one of the main reasons I loved it so much.)

Those who had gone commented that it wasn’t the most solo travel-friendly spot, if for no other reason than it’s best traversed in a car and the journey is an adventure best made with a co-pilot. So, armed with a cheap flight to Rome and said travel partner in tow, I finally made it to Sicily this year.

After deciding to go, the next call I had to make was where to call my home base for the majority of the trip. I envisioned staying on the beach or the cliffs overlooking the ocean — and while I did that too (Cefalu!) the most memorable part of my time in Sicily was to be found elsewhere.

Staying in the Val di Noto, Sicily

Many travelers who have felt the siren call (or simply, the persistent urging of their friends who have been,) take to the major cities and beaches of Sicily. The area of Sicily that stuck with me most, however, doesn’t have either of those things.

The Val di Noto, located on the southeast part of the island, was mostly destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century. What was rebuilt still stands today as one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in the world.

What does this mean for the visitor today? Wide boulevards, hillside towns, church facades, and narrow alleys — often in stone and primarily built into their natural surroundings. Exploring the towns of the Val di Noto feels a bit like wandering in a maze — if that maze happened to be lined with delightful trattorias, wine bars, and pastry shops.

I chose to base myself in Modica, which is best known for its artisan chocolate made from a recipe that dates back to the Aztecs. Much as I was curious to try the chocolate (it is quite spectacular) I was most excited to call the Residenza Hortus home for a few days.

What: Residenza Hortus, an artist-renovated three-bedroom historic home

Where: Right off the Piazza di San Giorgio in the heart of Modica, Sicily

When: Year-round, though summers bring more people to the area

Who: 2-6 people

How Much: from €210 to €500 per night

A friend had directed me to the collection of artist homes called Anime a Sud or ‘soul of the south.’ Designed by Italian artist Luca Giannini, I loved both his passion for the project and the intention and meaning behind each choice in the home.

The first thing I noticed upon entering the space each day was how light and airy the entire home is. Each of the bedrooms represents a different element, so you’ve got a ‘fire’ room with a fireplace built into the wall, an ‘air’ room that opens out onto the terrace, and a ‘water’ room with an elegant bathtub for a headboard (a hotel first as far as I know.) Each has custom-carved tile and design touches that subtly convey the theme. All of this lends itself to an ambiance of peace and natural flow in the house.

Off of the open kitchen is a beautiful recovered iron staircase, which leads down to a stone wine cellar filled with Sicilian wines. Most of the house is made of stone, so you get a sense of grounding and quiet as you relax in each of the rooms. Every detail honors the story of the origins of the property and the story of the local area, each exquisite material chosen deliberately.

As I learned more about the Residenza Hortus’s reconstruction, it made even more sense why I felt so connected to this special place:

The architectural project first focused on the ‘soul of the place,’ in order to catch the basic field lines and the specific energetic condensations and emotions which had stratified in that place across the time, and that had slowly turned into a sort of thin grid made of balances and harmonies which necessarily needed to be respected during the restoration works.”

Luca Giannini, artist and founder

Perhaps the best part of the home is the large terrace, which sits surrounded by Sicilian orange and pomegranate trees and beneath the tops of the San Giorgio church. There’s a small heated pool that’s great for winding down after a day of exploring. The terrace is a calm oasis that feels both modern and centuries old, and entirely private and yet engaged with the heritage of Modica. Its garden, of course, represents the earth element in the home.

The excellent and kind local staff is on hand not only to introduce you to the area and give tips, but also to arrange activities and private meals on the terrace, which we had the pleasure of experiencing one slow morning. There truly is a balance of feeling like you’re in a personal home — but with the amenities of a boutique hotel.

From Modica, it’s easy to explore the neighboring Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa, Siracusa, Caltagirone, and Scicli. (I recommend them all!) Each feels unique in its own way, and each has excellent food and unforgettable views. All make great day trips from the Residenza Hortus (unless, like me, you are tempted just to stay in and nearby the house.) I was grateful to learn more about the region and its food in the Sicily chapter of this incredible book about Italy’s culinary culture.

There is a lot to see even walking distance up and down the hill from Hortus (don’t miss the chocolate, really!) You can also explore the Southeastern beaches or Catania and Mount Etna if you haven’t already. All of the towns (including Catania) comprise the UNESCO World Heritage status given to the Val di Noto, so it feels cohesive to set out to explore them all.

Anime a Sud also renovated a smaller apartment in Modica called Casa Kimya, plus a perfectly located space in Siracusa. Like Residenza Hortus, both tell a story that makes you feel like uniquely immersed in Southern Sicily. I can’t wait to go back to experience them all.

Residenza Hortus was one of the most personally restorative and deeply thoughtful places I’ve had the pleasure of staying in. It’s a comfortable and stylish home, yes — but it’s also a living, breathing work of art that is more than a place to rest your head at night. The entire space speaks to you of this incredible region’s past, present, and hopefully, future.

My stay at Residenza Hortus was kindly hosted by the owner. However, all opinions (and photographs) are strictly my own.

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Rolling hills of tea and mountains of spices make this one of the most scenic locations in the country. Here are my top places to visit in Munnar.

Like many travelers, I first visited India with the dream of seeing the Taj Mahal in mind. I explored the palaces and forts of Rajasthan, I prayed at the banks of the Ganges, I navigated the markets of Mumbai.

India’s most iconic experiences are unforgettable and famous (or infamous) for good reason…and they’re the moments that made me fall in love with the country.Yet as I continue to travel throughout India’s various states, I find the quieter and/or lesser known destinations to be just as alluring. One such place I kept hearing about — and finally planned a trip to — is Kerala.

Located on the southwestern tip of India, Kerala is known for its relaxed pace and palm-lined backwaters. It’s also one of the most literate, laid-back, and wealthy states in India, making for a departure from the stereotypes we often hear about the chaos of the north (which is also very worth visiting, just different!)

Planning a trip to Kerala, during which you can see the major highlights, often includes the backwaters of Alleppey, the beaches of Kovalam, and a semi-required stay in one of the major cities (often Kochi.)

You’ll often see pictures of Munnar — just yesterday it popped up as a computer background on a screen. Yet I find that most travelers to India don’t know about it (and there isn’t much information as to what to do in Munnar, either.)

I actually first thought about making a Munnar trip after seeing it on the big Bollywood screen, in Chennai Express. The rolling, green fields and winding roads through tea estates captivated me nearly as much as the song and dance!

Now having been, Munnar is a must-visit for me in all of India — and certainly for South India and Kerala. Here’s a travel guide for the best places to visit in Munnar, and what you need to know before you go:

Munnar Sightseeing – Things to Do in Munnar

Tea Plantations/Tea Gardens

The incredibly scenic tea plantations are bound to be the highlight of any Munnar trip. Most hire a driver for the day to take them through the area — I arranged mine through my accommodation, and that seems to be the most common way to tour them. Be sure to ask your car to stop at scenic points for photos and to take in the views!

Top Station

Perhaps Kerala’s most famous hike, this trail leads trekkers up to the incredible viewpoint at Top Station, more than 6,000 feet above sea level. From here you have amazing perspective on the Western Ghats (the mountain range bordering Munnar) and the valley down below. Fun fact: from here you’re practically on the border of Kerala and the state of Tamil Nadu. The hike is particularly beautiful at sunrise and sunset.

Kundala Lake

I didn’t think that I needed to seek out a lake in India, but surrounded by the hills of tea the pristine body of water takes on an extra visual appeal. I loved stopping here while we were driving around for the day, and you’ll find it free from crowds aside from the occasional peaceful local out for a stroll.

TATA Tea Museum

If you’re looking for a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the process of how tea is made, and you want to dive a little deeper into the history of the area, definitely plan to stop into the area tea museum. You can also taste a variety of different local teas in their tasting room.

Eravikulam National Park

Evavikulam is the place to go in search of protected natural beauty, particularly the Nilgiri Tahr or mountain goat of South India. You can also see Anamudi, South India’s highest peak, from inside the park. As it is one of the most popular Munnar tourist places, you’ll want to arrive earlier rather than later. It takes about an hour by car to reach it.

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

These protected lands of the Ikkudi district are home to the Bengal tiger, Indian elephant, spotted deer, and many more species unique to Kerala. It’s often visited in conjunction with a stop at Eravikulam, in order to spot the  Chinnar wildlife.

Waterfalls

There are a variety of beautiful falls to stop at as you make your way across the places to see in Munnar. Lakkam, Attukal, and Thoovanam are a few particularly worth seeing.

Recommended Munnar Resorts + Hotels in Munnar

I didn’t hear great things about the town of Munnar itself, so I opted to search for a quieter up in the Kannan Devan Hills.

SpiceTree Munnar

Not merely a serene place to sleep…the staff has thoughtfully planned out the entire stay so that you are getting a personalized introduction to the best activities and sights in Munnar.

It turned out to be one of my absolute favorite stays ever in India. I highly recommend it — it’s one of the best hotels in Munnar and one of my favorite restaurants in Munnar as well. It seems I’m not alone in this thought; it has been named the Best Small Hotel in India. There’s a reason it has a perfect five star rating on TripAdvisor!

The best part about staying at SpiceTree Munnar was not only the peaceful and private location, but all the activities that included as a part of your room rate. From daily yoga and Ayurvedic massage to guided hikes and nature walks through the local village to cooking classes and tea tastings…it’s all expertly arranged for and provided by Spice Tree. I really got to relax there knowing everything I wanted to do in the area was offered locally (and on a small, personal scale) by the hotel.

SpiceTree Munnar is located above the Bison Valley village among the Western Ghats, meaning it’s not in Munnar itself. It is a bit of a drive to get there from the nearest train station, but once you’re there you can really immerse yourself in the stay.

The entire experience from start to finish, from the pool to the restaurant, was memorable and personable. Their focus on sustainable tourism and respect for nature is enviable. I’m not one to rave about hotel stays as I usually find them generic or “just a place to sleep,” but I can’t recommend Spice Tree enough as the top choice for your Munnar stay.

Munnar Restaurants

I personally loved the restaurant at Spice Tree so much, that it was the only place I ate at during my stay. Each meal is served with Ayurvedic herbal water, and the staff goes above and beyond to provide both Western and South Indian meals (I highly recommend the Indian meals.) You can even take a cooking class with the Spice Tree chef to learn (and eat!) all the spices and fresh ingredients of the local cuisine.

How to Reach Munnar

Munnar isn’t as well connected as some other Kerala sites, but it’s certainly worth any trouble to get there. Once you’re there, I’d recommend anywhere from 2 days to a week, depending on how relaxed you want your getaway to be and if you have time to see other Kerala sights.

Getting from Kochi to Munnar

The journey takes about 4 hours by car. You can hire a driver for the day one-way, or hire someone to take you from Kochi that will also drive you around the area while you’re there. Be sure to negotiate and choose a reputable company before you select the driver, especially if you’ll be spending a few days with them. There’s also a bus service from Kochi, but do keep in mind that private drivers are especially affordable in India and can be worth the cost for the privacy and flexibility (you can stop at places along the way!)

Getting from Bangalore to Munnar

You can fly or drive from Bangalore to Munnar, but the preferred route for most travelers is to take the train to Ernakulam station. From there you can hire a taxi to your Munnar accommodation.

The nearest railway station to Munnar: Aluva or Ernakulam. About 3-4 hours drive to reach Munnar.

The nearest airport to Munnar: Kochi (COK.) About 4 hours drive.

Munnar weather: Given Munnar’s elevation and position as a hill station, it is generally pleasant year-round. While there isn’t necessarily a best time to visit Munnar, many travelers choose to avoid June to September when monsoon season delivers heavy rains.

Other Places to Visit in Kerala

There’s so many other scenic and friendly tourist places in Kerala to see. Most of them can be easily reached from Munnar. Here are a few to consider adding to your trip:

• Alleppey (Alappuzha:) gateway to the backwaters
• Wayanad: lush, forested area known for its wildlife
• Varkala: a hippie beach town in the best possible ways
• Kumarakom: a village and cluster of islands in the backwaters
• Kovalam: the best known beach area of Kerala
• Thekkady: home to Periyar National Park, one of the largest wildlife reserves in India
• Kochi (Cochin): a small but beautiful port city with colonial influences
• Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram): the capital city of Kerala known for its temples
• Kozhikode (Calicut): the third largest city in Kerala.

I was invited to stay at Spice Tree Munnar during my self-funded trip to Kerala. All opinions are strictly my own!

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When the opportunity to housesit there arose, I thought: I’ll take the Paris to Bordeaux train down, do some Bordeaux wine tasting, eat a few French meals, and then…likely run out of things to do. I compared it to my day trips to Napa and Sonoma wine country — in which the area is beautiful, but there’d be much more for me to do in the city.

Oh how wrong I was!

Bordeaux is not just a wine region (although it is one of the world’s most famous.) It’s a city coming into its own — on the up for past ten years or so and with the largest protected city center in France, which received UNESCO World Heritage Status for its historic, cultural, and architectural value. The city has embraced its nickname of La Belle Endormie or “Sleeping Beauty,” having turned itself from a gritty port city to one of the most vibrant and beautiful small cities I’ve been to in Europe.

There is so much more than just wine in Bordeaux. Below I’ve included a few things worth seeing beyond the glass. Alas, most if not all travelers to the city and the Bordeaux region come with the intent of tasting the best Bordeaux wine — as they should. From the famous Grand Vin de Bordeaux and Bordeaux red wine to the delicate Sauternes (the only dessert wine I’ll drink,) and the incredible wine coming out of lesser known areas like Entre-deux-mers, there’s plenty to be had. And there’s no shortage of different places and ways to experience it. While the wine chateau can certainly be the way to go, many of them can be enjoyed without leaving the Bordeaux centre.

Spending several weeks in the same city, especially one as special as Bordeaux…you learn the best places to go (particularly for a glass of wine.) Here are my favorites… xx

Wine Tasting Bordeaux

Taste the Best Bordeaux Wine at a Local Wine Bar

This is my personal favorite way to sample the best French wines! Here are a few of the best Bordeaux wine bars:

• Aux Quatre Coins du Vin: This spot lets you taste incredible wines in a variety of pour sizes…meaning you can sip an expensive wine or try a bunch of different ones without having to get a glass. A great local place to hang out.

• CIVB Le Bar a Vin: The Conseil Interprofessionnel de Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) has opened their doors up in this beautiful wine bar at the center of town. They have tons of information on hand and can help you decide what to get, and they offer some of the region’s best wines in an affordable and approachable way.

• Le Wine Bar: I even love the exterior of this classic wine bar, which serves over 300 different wines in a cozy bistro setting.

Taste Rare Wines of the World

La Cite du Vin, the city’s must-see wine museum, takes visitors through the history and evolving cultural significance of wine not only in France but around the world. The seventh floor wine bar, however, with its birds eye view of the city and river, pours wines from otherwise unknown vineyards in places like Algeria and the Republic of Georgia.

Visit the Smallest Vineyard in Bordeaux

Grand vineyards and chateaus undeniably have their draw, but it’s hard to pass up the charm of ‘Vin de Jardin,’ a tiny winery that makes only 500 bottles a year. Set against the beautiful hotel Le Saint-James, you can find it just outside of the city in the town of Bouliac.

Bordeaux Wine Tours

A wine chateau can seem harder to get a reservation at than the top restaurants in France (especially if you don’t speak French.) For this reason, many visitors opt for a Bordeaux wine tour of the nearby vineyards and chateaux.

Which Bordeaux wine tour to take? It depends how much of the production process you want to see, how well known the chateau name is that you’re trying to visit, how much time you have, and how much you want to spend.

Visit the Bordeaux Tourist Office

Not only can they make recommendations and help you make reservations, they can give you the invaluable knowledge of when each of the vineyards is open (times vary widely.) There are also a variety that require a car to access, and the tourism office can point you in the right direction if you want to see some wineries by public transportation. I found them to be both friendly and informative.

Take a Tuk Tuk Through the Vines

Why walk or drive through the famous vines when you can drive through some of France’s most beautiful vineyards on the back of a tuk tuk? Cruise through narrow streets and top wine spots in a fun and unique way. You can hire one from the center of town or book in the tourist office. 

The Bordeaux to St Emilion train runs nearly every hour from Gare Saint-Jare and takes only about 30 minutes each way.

Things to Do in Bordeaux

Taste Traditional Sud Ouest French Cuisine

A classic, homey bistro that’s known to serve some of the most traditional and tasty food in the region, you’ll be welcomed to La Tupina like you’re in someone’s home in the countryside. A great way to taste what’s great about Southwest France  — and it’s my top restaurant recommendation for Bordeaux.

Reflect at the Miroir d’Eau

The world’s largest reflection pool happens to sit in one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Many come to play in the water or see the views, but it’s worth seeking out not only by day but by night when the historic city buildings are lit up.

See Bordeaux’s Alternative Side

The beautiful open-air space in Darwin, across the river from the historic city center, is a haven for artists and entrepreneurs. There are sustainability initiatives, the largest organic restaurant in France (and fantastic brunch!), vibrant street art, a skate park and more if you’re looking for the modern side of Bordeaux.

Visit the Markets

Whether it’s eating at the classic Marché des Capucins or strolling by the river on a Sunday for the Marché des Quai Chartrons, most of Bordeaux’s best food and wine can be found in a local market. Check out the book market (!) and the antiques markets as well!

Bordeaux Day Trips

Picnic Atop Europe’s Largest Sand Dune
Dune du Pilat, France

A short bus or car ride away from Bordeaux is the largest sand dune on the continent, which makes not only for a steep climb or a unique beach day but one of the most memorable places to bring some cheese and wine and enjoy a picnic in nature. You can get there in an hour by train from the Gare Saint-Jean.

Sample Oysters Straight from the Sea
Arcachon Bay, France

Whether at the local market or by the sea in nearby Arcachon, there’s no denying that slurping fresh oysters is an essential but often overlooked Bordeaux activity. I recommend a trip over to Cap Ferret (a short ride from Arcachon,) which is the most beautiful and laid-back French beach town I’ve ever heard of.

Where to Stay in Bordeaux

Bordeaux has some of the best value Airbnb stays I’ve seen in France! I have found great places for 1-2 people for as little as $25 a night, so there’s no excuse not to stay in Bordeaux for several days. Get $40 off your first stay.

If you’re more keen on a hotel stay, I’d recommend:

• Intercontinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hôtel (Luxury): This hotel is the hotel of Bordeaux — right at the heart of the city center, beautifully appointed, and worth a visit even if you aren’t staying there.
• Hotel de Seze: A beautiful hotel that’s also in the center of the city, it’s a comfortable and well-designed stay that’s a little more midrange in price (but no less lovely!)

More to come regarding this favorite city of mine, but I hope this will put Bordeaux on your radar and give you a place to start when it comes to wine tasting Bordeaux.

Cheers // À votre santé!

// More food + wine posts //

// Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa //

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Ah, Bangkok. The rush of a tuk-tuk whirling past you, the lip-smacking goodness of your first sizzling bowl of street noodles, the dazzling lights that reflect off of temples by day and rooftop bars by night.

Most visitors to the city seem to either adore or abhor it. To me, even after half a dozen visits it’s equal parts overwhelming and charming. The city has a lot happening beneath the surface: good, bad, and ugly. But more than anything there’s beauty and adventure (and food!) to be found — you just have to know where to look.

I happen to think the only reason people don’t love Bangkok is because they don’t know it well enough! Hence why, after my latest visit, I became determined to share a Bangkok itinerary and city guide that I wish I had had for my first visit.

What To Do, See, and Eat in Bangkok

An itinerary for one of Asia’s most exciting cities.

We’ll start with the top things to do.

If you have one day in Bangkok…

Visit temples

One of the joys of visiting Bangkok are its impressive Thai temples. From the Grand Palace to the small neighborhood wats, the spirituality of Thailand reverberates from its temple walls. Don’t miss:

• Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew)
• Wat Pho
• Wat Arun

Visit a market

If temples are the serene spirit of Bangkok, markets are its beating heartbeat. Whether it’s a new outfit or a hot meal you’re after, you’ll find it somewhere in Bangkok’s busting marketplaces.

• Chatuchak (also known as JJ) Weekend Market (here’s an in-depth guide)
• Yodpiman Fresh Flower Market (near Wat Pho)
• Or Tor Kor Food Market
• Ratchada Train Market
• Wang Lang Market

Eat some street food

Street food has a bit of a contentious presence in Bangkok at the moment, with city officials requesting a move toward the ban of food served on the streets. The unofficial claim is that it’s a move toward cleanliness and order, but locals and tourist alike agree that street food is a true highlight of being in Bangkok.

Street eats are not only accessible and affordable, but frequently some of the most delicious offerings. Carts, stalls, and stands — it matters not…just wander and eat! One of my longstanding favorite street food sois (or, street) has already been mostly dismantled. Do not despair — eat Bangkok street food while you still can though!

If you’re in a rush to find street food or aren’t having much luck, try these two spots for some targeted street eating:

Sukhumvit Soi 103
Chinatown’s Yaowat Road
Any of the major markets (see above)

Another excellent resource: writer Matt Gross offered up a Google map in the NYT less than a year ago of his favorite spots for Bangkok street food post-ban.

If you have two days in Bangkok…

Visit some more temples.

There are hundreds, so you won’t be short if you take to the streets and give yourself time to enter the temples you see around you. A day trip to nearby Ayutthaya adds even more fascinating and significant temples to the mix, or you can add Wat Saket (Golden Mountain,) Wat Tramit (near Chinatown,) and Wat Benjamabhopit to your list.

Take a river cruise

You can opt either to get around on the Chao Priya River (not a bad idea) for the day, or just hop onto a boat for a few stops for an inexpensive view of the city from the water and a slice of daily Bangkok life.

For a more organized affair, I highly recommend Supanniga Cruises. They have a dinner cruise (with complimentary champagne!) that serves up six authentic courses with the beautiful backdrop of sunset on the river. Though the light is most beautiful just before dinner, there is also an afternoon cruise that serves tea and traditional Thai sweets (yes, please.)

Try a uniquely Thai activity

Some of my best memories in Thailand are of some of the activities or classes I sought out to try. Though many can be found throughout the country, Bangkok is as good a place as any to jump in. Check out whatever interests you most.

• Thai cooking class: making your own Thai meal with the proper Thai ingredients is a game-changing experience! I recommend one that also visits a local market, like Sompong Thai Cooking School.
• Muay Thai: aka Thai kickboxing. Watch a match or take a class! I absolutely loved my class at Krudam Gym.
• Thai massage: Admittedly you do want to be careful with the choice of establishment (I’ve wandered into places that offer services other than massage…) when you’re going the budget route. And I recommend you do! There are hundreds of excellent, reputable massage spots that offer a respite from a long day of walking, touring, or traveling for less than $10. (I recommend Siam Breeze in Khlong Toei if you want to be extra sure!)

See Bangkok at night

• Visit a rooftop bar

My favorites are the Sky Bar at Lebua at State Tower (which you may recognize from The Hangover 2) and Vertigo at the Banyan Tree Bangkok. I still think these are some of the best places to visit in Bangkok at night, if nothing else for the views and the city lights.

• Explore the seedy streets.

While I’m not necessarily recommending you seek out the sketchier side of Bangkok, I’ll admit I was curious. I stumbled upon Soi Cowboy (between Sukhumvit Soi 21 and 23) and while I was quite uncomfortable there, it was interesting to see some of what Bangkok is known for (go-go bars, etc.) out in the open. Other streets or bars will have very young Thai women or ladyboys soliciting business out front. And while we certainly shouldn’t gawk at it, it is the reality of what you may see and that’s why I’m addressing it.

Khao San Road is the famous backpacker area that I’ve tended to avoid at all costs, but many travelers really enjoy the scene and if it’s a lively night out, a classic pair of elephant pants (which I’ll admit, I quite enjoy,) or a couple of Thailand travel cliches you’re after, you’re likely to find it there.

If you have three days in Bangkok (or more…)

See something off-the-beaten-path.

• Go cycling and exploring on the island of Bang Kachao (‘The Green Lung.’)

This is one of my favorite experiences I’ve ever had in the city. Once you’ve seen the main sights, if you’re not opposed to biking I would check out this lesser known area. The nature and lack of tourists alone make it a worthy addition to your itinerary. I hired my bike from a Bangkok local tour company called Spice Roads, and they also do guided tours.

While there, try to stop in at:

• • Bang Nam Pheung floating market
  • Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park (take a break from cycling here.)
  • A local restaurant that isn’t touristy (bonus points if served near or above someone’s home.)

• See the artist village of Baan Silipan

You can see a charming older village on the river, an art gallery, traditional Thai crafts, Thai puppet shows, and more at this beautiful spot in the Phasi Charoen district.

Take a day trip.

Here are some of my favorite day trips from Bangkok:

• Ayutthaya 
  • The former Thai capital was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century, but the remains of the historic city and its many temples. I had heard mixed things about prioritizing a visit, but when I finally made it there I wished I had gone sooner. Make sure to seek out some of the lesser visited temples.
• Floating markets
  • Damnoen Saduak is the most famous one, and hence the most crowded. I prefer Amphawa (afternoons and evenings only.) Both are about 1.5 hours driving from Bangkok, and you will find no shortage of drivers to take you there (negotiate price in advance!)

Explore a new neighborhood.

More of a choose-your-own-adventure approach, I love choosing a neighborhood in any city to explore for a day. Here are a few that are particularly worth checking out in Bangkok:

• Chinatown/Yaowarat
• Thonglor
• Thonburi

Get to any of the markets, temples, or activities you didn’t get to in your first few days.

What To Eat in Bangkok

You can’t go too wrong with food in Thailand. Eating is perhaps the best part of being in Thailand. Regional foods are going to vary, but here are a few tried-and-true favorite eats to get you started on your Thai culinary adventures.

• Mango sticky rice – insane dessert
• Pad see ew – delicious noodle dish
• Khao mun gai  – chicken with rice
• Boat noodles – a popular noodle soup
• Som tam – papaya salad
• Pad Thai – the classic Thai dish
• Tiny coconut pancakes – just say yes
• Khao soi – coconut curry soup

Keep in mind that if you ask for spicy, “Thai spicy” is a whole other level of heat. Best to start with asking for mild (which most cooks are used to adjusting for Western palates) and build up your spiciness level from there.

Need more? Mark Wiens of Migrationology has been my go-to for Bangkok food recommendations since day one.

Where to Stay in Bangkok

I’ve been lucky enough to have a range of experiences staying at a variety of hotels, guesthouses, and hostels in Bangkok.

Here are the favorites I’ve enjoyed the most:

• The Athenee Bangkok (Luxury) << This is my absolute favorite hotel in Bangkok, but it’s more of a splurge.
• Lebua at State Tower (Middle) << Incredible value, huge rooms. Famous rooftop bar.
• House 23 Guesthouse (Budget) << A clean, well-located option if you’re looking for a cheaper, smaller guesthouse.
• Chan Cha La 99 (Hostel) << Nice spot for a solo traveler/backpacker – not in Khao San Road!

And I’ve got my eye on Hotel 103 Bed and Brews or Aster 9 (beautiful spaces + high praise!) for my next stay.

Other Bangkok Tips:

• Embrace the Skytrain! This is the easiest way to get around the city, especially when there is heavy traffic. (And there’s always heavy traffic.) The routes aren’t always the most convenient, and it’s tempting to just hail a tuk tuk or one of those cute pink cabs, but you’ll often get there quicker and the clean, fast, and easy Skytrain.
• Beware of scams. Don’t let anyone tell you the Grand Palace is closed…they want to take you to their gem shop. On that note, don’t take any super discounted or free tuk-tuk or taxi rides. Make sure your taxi driver turns the meter on, or that you’ve agreed on a price for your tuk-tuk journey before you start driving. Take my word for it!
• Look out for spirit houses. You may notice as you travel in Thailand that many homes and businesses have a tiny house, often elevated, out front. The small structures often have offerings like food or drink near them as well.
  Ghosts and spirits are embedded in Thai beliefs, and the spirits houses are thought to provide shelter to friendly spirits (and appease the bad ones.) You’ll usually find them placed in corners, and once you know them you’ll begin to see them everywhere!
• Dress conservatively for temple visits. Both men and women will want to cover their shoulders and knees out of respect. Although strictness varies from wat to wat, you don’t want to be stuck not being able to enter for lack of proper dress. It can be especially difficult to remember during the super hot Bangkok days, so bringing a shawl or scarf along with you can be the easiest thing.
• The city’s full official name is… “Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.” << the world’s longest!

Tip for my SF based travelers: I’ve taken several different routes for the long haul flight to BKK from SFO…connecting in Tokyo, even in Dubai. On this last trip I connected through Guangzhou (CAN) which had two benefits — one, you can get 14.5 hours of flight time in on your first flight, leaving less than three hours to Bangkok once you complete the first leg (as opposed to 10 and then another 9.) You can also plan a short stop in China without dealing with the visa process for Americans, using their 72 hour transit visa (helloooo dim sum!)

Why Go

I know that most of you planning a trip want a quick overview of names of places or things to book. I get it — I’m the same way when researching a trip!

But I still hold onto the why in everything I write, and I want these itineraries to be no exception.

So here’s a quick note as to why you should experience Bangkok…

It’s no surprise that being in Bangkok for the first time feels a bit like taking a bite of Thai food for the first time. As an American traveler landing in Asia, the sound of “sawasdee kha” feels different in the ears. The sight of low light bouncing off the golden rooftop of a temple, or bright light illuminating a street crowded with power lines overhead… it’s all a bit, well, foreign. Flavors, sights, sounds, and smells that are unique just to this place; there’s no choice but to be inundated by new experiences here.

And that first bite is likely going to be too something…too sweet, too sour, too spicy. It shocks the system for a second, and you’re not sure what you feel. But as you relax into it, take a second or third bite, and breathe…that initial shock of newness starts to slightly wear off and you’re left with what feels something like the sweet scent of lemongrass or the smooth balance of a Thai tea.

Suddenly you realize that while again and again you may feel or taste or hear something like it’s the first time (Bangkok has a way of continuing to challenge you,) there’s a comfort and calm underneath the unfamiliarity that lingers. There’s a knowing smile where you expected shock. And as you come to know Bangkok, to know Thailand…you leave less and less with daze or awe and sit more and more in that calm.

That transformation is one that stays with you.

Disclosure: This latest trip to Bangkok was made possible by the Tourism Authority of Thailand and China Southern Airlines. I also have several trips to Bangkok under my belt that were paid for in full on my dime, and as always, all opinions are completely my own.

Bangkok too loud for you? Check out this story I wrote about Nan and why it’s worth it to see the quieter side of Thailand.

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Here’s why getting away to the U.K. (without even touching London) is one of my favorite trips to take.

Best Places to Visit in Northern England

Guide and Itinerary

Guilty as charged. I’ve been that American tourist. Over and over. The one who loves Great Britain, yet seems to only make my way toward London each and every time I visit. (With friends there and it being such a dynamic city, it’s hard not to!)

Still, the British friends I met traveling (because I always make British friends abroad, without fail) kept insisting that I was missing out.

“Northerners are way friendlier, not to mention more fun,” they’d say. “You can’t say you love the U.K. if you only go to London. That’s like going to New York and saying you’ve seen America.”

So when a new flight route with Virgin Atlantic launched from San Francisco direct to Manchester, which is considered the gateway to Northern England, I knew this was my chance to branch out of my U.K. comfort zone.

I divided my time between the allure of the English countryside (it’s always calling me,) a dynamic smaller city (in this case, Liverpool,) and the city lights of Manchester, the country’s “second city.”

In the Lake District, the lovely town of Windermere — located on the region’s largest lake, Lake Windermere — served as my home base as it was accessible via rail. From there it’s easy to get a cab into the surrounding towns and areas if you won’t be renting a car.

Days 1-2: Liverpool

Those who know about Liverpool typically know it for either a) its association with The Beatles or b) its maritime history. While I certainly experienced a bit of both of those during my stay, what I found beyond that is what I really believe makes the city worth visiting.

How To Get to Liverpool from Manchester:

After flying into MAN airport, it’s an easy and quick train into Liverpool. My journey took just over and hour and only cost £15.

Day One:

After checking into your hotel or dropping your luggage, choose from a few of the local museums for an introduction to the city.

The Museum of Liverpool is a great way to learn about the heritage of the city (and it’s free.) After years of visiting the Tate Britain and Tate Modern in London, I loved the space and collection at the Tate Liverpool. It’s also a great time to check out Albert Dock, a complex of historic and modern dock and warehouse spaces filled with cute restaurants and shops (and home to the Tate!) If you’re interested in the maritime history of the city, you can catch Merseyside Maritime Museum here as well.

Another fantastic option for the afternoon is the Open Eye Gallery, the only gallery devoted solely to photography in Northwest England. Exhibitions change regularly, but they tend to feature both local and international works.

It’s Time to Hit the Pubs

After a bit of culture, it’s time to get to what I consider the shining star of Liverpool: the pubs, the people!

Hanging out solo in a pub is almost always one of my favorite things to do in the U.K., but never have I had more fun or made more friends than in Liverpool. I had heard that the people in Northern England were on a whole other friendliness level, and for that reason I recommend heading out for an evening of pub food and drink, even if drinking is not really your thing. In fact Liverpool has repeatedly been recognized as one of the friendliest cities in the world. You will leave with new friends, and you’ll likely have a list of local recommendations for your next day.

Day Two

It’s time to dive into Beatles-mania. Even if you aren’t a huge fan of the group, their impact on music and pop culture cannot be denied. Start with The Beatles Story, located back near Albert Dock, and continue on to the British Music Experience for a wider look at musical influence and impact from the country. Big fans of The Beatles will also want to check out The Cavern Club (where the group got their break.)

From here you can explore the beautiful Georgian Quarter, stopping for lunch and/or a pint. Pop into the enormous Liverpool Cathedral (Britain’s largest, actually) while you’re at it.

For your final evening, I can’t recommend The Everyman Theater highly enough. Though I only attended one performance (Fiddler on the Roof!) I fell in love with the intimate stage setup and company of actors. Book your tickets in advance if you can, and dine on Hope Street before a show.

Be sure to check for local events before your trip — that’s how I ended up at St. George’s Hall celebrating St Pepper at 50, a series of performances by top Indian musicians and a look at how they influenced the famous album. As a European Capital of Culture, the city always has incredible goings-on that you will want to partake in to round out your visit.

Favorite Liverpool Pubs

• The Grapes: I ran into some of the cast of the theater performance I went to at this legendary local spot. Comfortable and classic.
• The Philharmonic: One of the prettier pub interiors I’ve ever seen, and plenty of local brews on tap for your drinking pleasure.
• Peter Kavanaugh’s: Another spot that gets points for its quirky interior — a lively spot to grab a drink and meet some new friends.
• The Belvedere: an old school pub also in the Georgian Quarter that feels a little bit hidden (in the best way.)

Where To Eat in Liverpool

My favorite spot (Clove and Hitch) has since closed :/ but here are my still-standing favorites!

• 60 Hope Street: lunch, dinner, afternoon tea…pick one – you’ll love it.
• Lunya (and coming soon, Lunyanita!): My very favorite. Catalan cafe and deli!
• Leaf: Fresh cafe bites and coffee/tea
• Mowgli: Fantastic casual Indian street food
• The Art School Restaurant: great prix-fixe menus with an emphasis on local ingredients.
• Baltic Market: Liverpool’s street food market (open Thurs-Sun) that features local, independent food producers.

Where To Stay in Liverpool

Titanic Hotel: located in a recently renovated former warehouse, it’s now one of the nicest spots in Liverpool to stay (whether you’re a fan of the film or not!) A fantastic value with luxury touches and tons of spaciousness (seriously, some of the bigger standard hotel rooms I’ve ever seen,) it’s just over a mile from the main part of town but certainly walkable and definitely worth it.

Days 3-5: The Lake District

From Liverpool or Manchester, you can catch a train to Windermere station to access one of the most beautiful parts of all England. The train to/from Manchester is often direct, so be sure to check the schedule in advance!

Both England’s most popular national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s hard to imagine missing this as a part of your stay in Northern England.

The Lake District is your English countryside dreams come to life. Plan your days around the following:

• Time spent in (the right) Bed and Breakfast.
• Walks and/or boat time on the lake.
• Pub stops along your walks.

For me, Lindeth Fell Country House falls at the top of the list for favorite places I’ve stayed…ever. From the setting — a historic home turned B&B complete with English gardens, a view of the lake, and a Union Jack flowing in the wind. Then add three of the loveliest ladies as your staff, bringing you a delicious full English breakfast every morning along with your choice of paper, elegant individual rooms (some with fireplace,) and a champagne high tea set in the parlour? Did I mention the baked goods are all made fresh in-house?

If you can bring yourself to leave the comforts and delights of your accommodation, there is boundless natural beauty waiting for you outside the front door. I found some of my favorite views just wandering close to the property (Lindeth Fell is set in the countryside a bit outside the town,) there are plenty of paths to keep the nature and possibly even literature lover in you alive.

Best Lake District Walks (Near Windermere)

Since it was light until 10 or 11 pm when I visited, I was able to walk long distances daily.  I recommend setting out as early as suits you and walking until you get tired! Then plan to take the bus back to where you started. My favorite walks were mostly along the route from Ambleside to Grasmere. This is also a great resource for planning your walks.

Get a map from the Visitors Centre or add these stops on your Google Maps.

• Rydal Mount and Rydal Hall: The former being a former home of Wordsworth and the latter being a beautiful castle (be sure to see the waterfall on the grounds!)
• Loughrigg Fell
• Orrest Head
• Grasmere
• Ambleside

Where To Eat in the Lake District

• Sawrey Country House: some of the best fish ‘n’ chips I’ve had in all my life.
• The Angel Inn: a lovely pub with great views of the lake and a pretty interior.
• The Lamplighter: classic spot best known for its Sunday lunch.
• Grasmere Gingerbread: world-famous spicy-sweet gingerbread that’s worth a stop!
• The Wild Boar: a grill and smokehouse with memorable mains.

What to Do in the Lake District

• Hill Top: picturesque English village that includes the home of Beatrix Potter!
• Dove Cottage: William Wordsworth’s former home and current museum in Grasmere
• Windermere Lake Cruises: see the lakes from the water!

Other than the boat service and your feet, there are great local buses running routes to all the towns and popular walk spots. I also recommend stopping at The Badger Bar at The Glen Rothy Hotel along your walk from Ambleside to Grasmere!

Day 6-7: Manchester

Ah, Manchester. I visited the city not long after the terrible attacks that shook the city and the world. There were still flowers on display in city squares to honor the victims.

Still the Mancunians (citizens of Manchester) I had the pleasure of meeting truly impressed me with their strength and optimism. Both street art and conversation seemed to mix remembrance with a sense of ‘carrying on.’

The symbol of Manchester is and always has been the Worker Bee.  Dating back to the city’s role in the Industrial Revolution, it finds relevance and meaning for the hardworking and resilient nature of the people there today.

Learn about the past, immerse yourself in the present, and enjoy the cosmopolitan food, drink, and art to be found.

What to See in Manchester

John Rylands Library // Chetham’s Library

Two beautiful spaces for the book lover and the non-book enthusiast alike.

Street Art + The Northern Quarter 

This area was the highlight of Manchester for me. The Northern Quarter is both trendy and hipster, and regardless of how you feel about that, you’ll love the murals dotting its city walls and the cute cafes and shops throughout.

Chinatown // The Village // Rusholme (Curry Mile)

Have a look at the diversity and international culture represented in these unique neighborhoods, each of which tells part of the city’s story.

Manchester Art Gallery // Whitworth Art Gallery

Fantastic collections worth seeing (and both have free entry!) Whitworth has a focus on modern art, while Manchester Art Gallery features a range of European art periods.

The Shambles

A quaint, historic square including one of the only remaining Tudor buildings in the city.

Manchester Guided Tours

I highly recommend these local walking tours as a way to introduce yourself to the city or dive deeper into it. The public tours taking place daily are a mere £10 to join, and you’ll learn so much more about Manchester than you could on your own.

Manchester Town Hall

A splendid Neo-Gothic structure that is stunning from the outside even if you choose not to visit the interior. Currently under renovation, you may also visit the interior on a city walking tour.

Altrincham 

Loved visiting this neighborhood which is easily accessible via the MetroLink tram (about 2o minutes from the city centre.) The market is the absolute highlight of any visit — it’s open 9 am-10 pm daily (except it closes at 5 pm on Sundays and please note: not open on Monday.)

Where to Eat in Manchester

• Altrincham Market: so. much. goodness. My favorites were Tender Cow and Little Window.
• Evelyn’s Cafe: probably the first place I’d head to if back in Manchester. Get the fried chicken!
• Rudy’s: delicious Neopolitan-style pizzas, multiple locations.
• Northern Soul Grilled Cheese: just what it sounds like!
• Pie & Ale: truly English dining, done right!
• Ancoats General Store: great for a coffee or beer stop! Friendly place.
• This & That: no-frills Indian canteen with cheap, authentic eats.
• The Refuge by Volta: small plates and big interiors.

Manchester Pubs and Bars

• Marble Arch Inn: This classic old pub was my very favorite in the city.
• Albert Schloss: The floral entrance is just the beginning of a beautiful experience. Bavarian bier hall.
• Grand Pacific: Chic Asian fusion spot with craft cocktails.
• The Alchemist: modern, inventive cocktails complete with matching interiors.
• Peveril of the Peak:  an older pub with all the character!

Where to Stay in Manchester

I loved my stay at the Radisson Blu Edwardian Manchester but also heard rave reviews about King Street Townhouse and The Midland.

The RB Edwardian was not only in a great location, it had a pool and steam room (goodbye, jetlag) and views like this with breakfast…

May you love Northern England with all the fervor of a roaring football match. I believe these three spots are some of the best places to visit in England outside of London/

And for the love of all things holy, please eat as many sticky toffee puddings as you can get your hands on whilst in England.

Cheers! xx

Flight to Manchester…now boarding!

Disclosure: my trip to Northern England was made possible by Visit Manchester, Love Great Britain, and Virgin Atlantic. All thoughts and opinions are strictly my own!

More Northern England Cities to Check Out:

• Leeds

• York

• Chester

Northern England Map for Planning

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I spent a week living in a spiritual community in India. There’s a sentence I never expected to utter.

If you read this blog, you know that I practice yoga regularly and that it became a much bigger part of my life after a traumatic experience abroad (when I experienced and truly needed its healing power.) And if you didn’t know? You likely could’ve assumed given that I live in San Francisco (where yoga clothing is the mainstay on the city streets.)

First, what even is yoga? And furthermore, what is an ashram?

• Waking up early feels good.
• Single-tasking, being disciplined to your commitments (without excuses!,) and truly being present with one activity at a time…feels good.
• Having a daily routine that gets you into motion and stays fairly consistent feels good.
• Being disconnected from the Internet, media and the news, and notifications feels good.
• Not being the slightest bit concerned with your appearance, as you practice focusing on the inner, feels good.

(Are you sensing a theme here?)

A housing building at the ashram.

I could do a whole post on what I learned about food alone, but for now know that this is what I learned about eating:

 

• What you eat affects how you feel…(a seemingly simple concept that finally clicked for me here. I have an iron stomach, and I truly can eat and drink whatever I want. I’ve experienced food making me feel worse, but I didn’t realize I could feel so much better!)
• Foods have different energies, and food that is reheated, old but not spoiled, overcooked etc. loses its vital energy even when edible. Eating seasonally, locally, organically, and freshly prepared foods increases not only its nutrition but the positive energy your body absorbs.
• Eating only sattvic foods and eliminating meat, caffeine, alcohol, and even garlic and onion…all serves to enhance clarity of the mind (it may not be fully realistic, but it works.)
• The act of creating, offering, and sharing food can be a spiritual experience. As I was in Kerala, the birthplace of Ayurveda (the sister science of yoga and an ancient Indian healing practice,) this was well-ingrained into meals and principles of food.
• Eating in silence allows us to show reverence for food and the way it nourishes our bodies, as well as practice mindful eating and being very aware of what we put in our bodies.
• Eating with your hands (with some time and practice) feels good! You feel more connected to the food (really!)

  

Every individual’s experience is undoubtedly different. What follows is a summary of what I wish I had known would come from the hours of discipline, the leap to go at all. Here are some overall thoughts upon leaving the ashram, after only a week of surrendering to the schedule: 

 

Sitting with discomfort — mental, emotional, even physical (my back from all that sitting cross-legged…ouch) is important sometimes. Whether on the mat, in the middle of chanting, or during a particularly long meditation, I stretched myself (pun not intended) to just be in moments where I had the impulse to get up and leave about 100 times.

 

I travel admittedly, to experience discomfort. While I love a nice massage or beach cocktail as much as the next person, I have learned that pursuing places and activities that make us uncomfortable at first create so much room for growth. (That might be a huge part of why I love India so much.) Also, you can do anything for a week.

 

There is unity in diversity. This is literally one of the mottos of the ashram, but having the experience at the ashram is what cemented it for me. All of these people from around the world…and I mean from my Danish roommate to the group of Iranians or Japanese students undergoing teacher training, to the dozens of new friends I met from all over India…we all dressed, ate, practiced, and pursued the same common goal for the time we spent in the ashram. Spiritually you are taught that this world, our perceived reality, is all a mere projection of the mind, that underneath or beyond that we are all the same…and fortunately I got to experience this on both a surface and deeper level here.

 

There is magic in surrender, and what is surrender? Ultimately it is trust. This is something I personally needed to rebuild. Trusting the people around you, the people guiding you, the people that enter your journey, is essential. The harder part, at least for me, is trusting yourself, especially when life or interactions with others lead you to doubt this.  I had to exercise this trust way more than I exercised any joint, bone, or muscle in this “yoga vacation.”

 

There are two choices for how we feel, both on and off the mat. Love and fear. Everything else is some variation of one or the other. So many of us are choosing fear blindly and repeatedly, without even recognizing it for what it is (I know I do!) Silly as it may sound, finally learning to hold a headstand did indeed represent for me the process of moving from fear to love during the week. I will seek to do this in more places in my life now.

 

There is no substitute for experience. For most of my life I have known that things like walking, meditation, eating your vegetables, and being kind were ‘good things to do.’ Often my practice of those pursuits was limited to that widely accepted belief. But it wasn’t until I pushed past the ‘what’ or ‘how’ and into the ‘why,’ feeling the benefits through my own experience, that these ideas became understood and truly valued.

 

Balance is the key. From my yoga poses to this blog to how I live my daily life, balance is the theme that comes up again and again for me. And the thing I appreciated most about my ashram experience (besides finally nailing that headstand! :P) was that despite its strict schedule, its demands and required commitments…everything was presented with a loving, inclusive, and balanced perspective that left plenty of room for you to process, individualize, or even reject.  Balance.

The post What I Learned Living in an Ashram in India appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

Or, how I learned to fall in love with a completely different part of my own country on an unexpected USA road trip.

I’m a California girl, through and through. A Northern California girl, to be specific (after ten years in Southern California, the distinction is necessary.) The more I see of the world, the more sure of that I am.

When someone asks me where I’m from whenever I’m abroad, I reply without thinking: “California.” I realize, of course, that they’re looking to hear my country, not my state.

Most expect me to reply with “the United States.” And while I’m a proud American (well, most of the time,) I really identify so much more strongly with being a Californian and even a San Franciscan…and I’ve never been clearer on that than now.

I’ve also never been more aware that California is a bit of a bubble. So when I had the opportunity to road trip from Alabama to San Francisco (coincidentally, not long before the election of 2016) I pondered where outside my home state I wanted to visit. It was time (again) for me to see more of my own country.

Why was I so keen on pushing past my comfort zone in other countries and on different continents, yet unwilling to explore the expanse of land just to the right of me?

You feel me on this question, Americans? Maybe it’s time to explore one of my favorite regions of our fair nation.

Here are my top five cities to visit in Southern USA.

Charleston

Perhaps the most charming city I’ve been to outside of SF, Charleston cuts through its thick, humid air and pastel houses right through to your heart. The burgeoning food scene and friendly locals certainly don’t hurt. Between historic homes and waterfront walks, Charleston is easy to love. Here’s why:

Why Go

Carriage rides, Lowcountry cuisine, ghost stories, plantation homes, colorful streets, stately homes.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss FIG, Husk, Poogan’s Porch (mmm for brunch,) The Ordinary, and Butcher & Bee.

Where to Stay

Zero George Street, a posh boutique luxury spot in the heart of the historic district.

Read More: Slowing Down in South Carolina

Nashville

I’m not a country music fan by any means (ok, I love me some Zac Brown Band and the occasional Carrie Underwood song but I digress…) and I still loved Nashville. Though it’s known for its honky-tonks and country music halls, there is of course so much more to this energetic city. From neighborhood strolls to hot chicken, here’s how to fall in love with the ‘ville of Nash.

Why Go

Live music, cute boutiques, meat and threes, city vibes with a small town feel, hot chicken.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss: Hattie B’s or Prince’s (hot chicken,) Pancake Pantry, Bluebird Cafe (music,) Pinewood Social, Arnold’s Country Kitchen.

Where to Stay

I love the Hutton Hotel. It’s a beautiful property, and it’s central to a lot you’ll want to see.

Read More: Where to Eat in Nashville

Atlanta

In full disclosure, I’ve been in the Atlanta airport far more than the city of Atlanta. But after visiting a friend there I came to appreciate ATL for more than just the proximity of Waffle House (though, Waffle House is legit.) These have been my favorite parts of Atlanta to date.

Why Go

Beautiful urban parks, dynamic culture, MLK history, sweet tea, and apparently beautiful skies!

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss Gunshow, The Optimist, Miller Union, The Varsity, and Busy Bee Cafe.

Where to Stay

Hotel Clermont, a 1920s themed hotel that’s got a  great location and all the charm.

Read More: Slowing Down in South Carolina

Austin

Austin was the first place on this list that I visited and the one I’m most likely to return to next. What is it about the Texan capital that captures so many visitors? It’s hard to put a finger on it, but breakfast tacos, barbecue, live music, and keeping it “weird” is certainly a start.

Why Go

Tex Mex, BBQ, more Tex Mex…but seriously also, Barton Springs, South Congress, murals, Rainey Street, and so much more.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss: Frankin or La Barbecue (BBQ,) Torchy’s Tacos or Tacodeli (tacos,) Polvo’s (Tex Mex,) La Condesa (cocktails,) Central Market, Alamo Drafthouse, Easy Tiger.

Where to Stay

I usually stay with friends, but loved the pool at the JW Marriott Austin.

New Orleans

Ah, NOLA. I could go on and on about how much I adore this city — with its distinct culture, cuisine, cocktails, and cool vibes it feels almost like leaving the country. Rather than dream of jazz on Frenchman street, beignets hot from the oven, or late nights with a Sazerac in hand, I’d rather you just took my word for it and got on the next plane there.

Why Go

Food, cocktails, food…jazz, Garden District, Frenchman St., joie de vivre, beignets, and more cocktails.

Where to Eat and Drink

Don’t miss: Cochon, Cafe du Monde, Commander’s Palace (25 cent martinis…,) Jacques-Imo’s, La Petite Grocery, Sazerac Bar, Carousel Bar, Antoine’s, The Spotted Cat (for jazz) and so much more!

Where to Stay

I’ll probably stay at the Hotel Monteleone next time so I have downstairs access to the Carousel Bar, let’s be real.

Read More: A Foodie’s Guide to New Orleans

All pride aside, there is something about the South I’ve always been drawn to. Some cities I visited on my cross-country road trip, others I’ve made a priority out of visiting on their own. And though I maintain that if I couldn’t live in San Francisco, I’d move right to London or Paris…these fun, vibrant, and welcoming Southern cities right here in the USA give me pause, and make me feel a greater appreciation for the country I call home.

Whether you are American or Californian, or not, these places have a historic weight and well, charm, that is undeniable. They have some of the most beautiful architecture, culture, and food I’ve encountered anywhere in the world.

So while perhaps I should’ve ventured out sooner, now that I have fallen for these places…I won’t be so firm in my California roots that I forget to look around at the beauty and history beyond my state border.

I hope you won’t either. <3

This post was originally posted in 2017 and was recently updated for accuracy and relevancy.

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I have this strange ritual I repeat every time I land in Paris.

I almost don’t want to tell you about it, because I am aware that it’s random and a bit odd. But it takes me right back to some of the happiest moments of my life. So, I hold onto the habits (and even come clean with them here, to you.)
After dropping off my bags where I’m staying, is to immediately head to the nearest French chain grocery store — Carrefour, Monoprix, it matters not. The red lipstick and ballet flats emerge, and calm comes over me as I take to the Parisian streets.
I then proceed to pick up the same four things: a bit of both carottes rapées and celery rémoulade salads, (I told you this was random…) a wheel of cheese (the stinkier the better,) and a bottle of French red wine that’s under 10 euros. Perhaps I also get a fresh baguette.

This is my simple ritual.

I once saw Paris in a Bollywood film. It was the first film I ever watched in India. And though my plan was to head home from Italy after months of traveling, something about seeing Paris on the screen (in India, of all places) meant that I had to go there.
And so although it made no practical sense, and though I had been before a handful of times, I made plans to spend a month living in Paris. I wanted to linger. I wanted to relax there.

I found a cheap apartment, the kind you can’t fully stand up in, through a friend-of-a-friend. He was an American and an officer in the Navy, enough of a dreamer and a Francophile to keep a pied-a-terre in one of the nicest parts of the city. It was a former maid’s quarters, with a toilet in the hall and a switch on the wall to turn the water from the tiny sink to the shower stall…but it was Paris, and for a short month, it was mine.

So perhaps it was this first “real” experience that left me craving an appartment stay in Paris whenever my mind wanders to a distant place. I almost wish Paris wasn’t this place for me because it’s so cliche. But it happened, and the city is one of my favorite places on Earth to be romantic. And I don’t even need anyone but myself for that to be the case. (In fact, I prefer being in Paris alone!)

So while I’ve stayed in some beautiful hotels in Paris (this one is still my favorite,) here are the reasons I’ll always opt for renting an apartment in Paris:

The chance to feel like you live in Paris. (A girl can dream, right?)

To have your neighborhood pâtisserie and market, if only just for the week. (Utilisez votre français!)

To have access to a kitchen to enjoy the treats you find at French markets and shops. (Le Bon Marche, anyone?)

To experience residential areas of the city, where there is a lower concentration of tourists and visitors. (This helps with the pretending like you live there part.)

To more intimately know one arrondissement of the many magical parts of Paris. (My favorites are Le Marais (this stay,) Saint Germain-des-Pres, and Republique.)

I have gotten in the habit of choosing a different neighborhood to use as a base and home for longer stays, and it’s my favorite way to explore not just Paris but any city. I try to stay mostly around there and act (i.e. pretend) that I live there as much as I can. (Especially well-suited to Paris, if you ask me.)

To have a place to call your own, to create the habits and the memories that stay with you long after you leave. (Clearly, mine do!)

French friends are quick to remind me that “a vacation in Paris is not the same as living in Paris.” That is to say, that the fantasy of being there temporarily is different from the reality of living there (even if it is in an apartment.)

Still, even if it is a short-lived reverie, it remains a dream in which I can live…so long as there are apartment rentals and cheap plane tickets. <3

Merci beaucoup to Cobblestone Paris for hosting my stay.

(They even have a local come and greet you when you arrive!)
Minimum stay is often as few as three nights.
The apartment featured is called ‘La Charme du Marais’ if you wish to stay there

~

More Paris Stories:

Paris in Black and White // The City of (Unexpected) Love // The Beauty of the French Pharmacy

The post An Apartment in Paris is Always a Good Idea appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.