Activities to Enjoy in Kona + on the Kohala Coast

Read on for the top experiences and my tips for the Kona side of the island

Although travel is such a big part of my life now, like many of us, I didn’t grow up traveling often. Hawaii was the one place I returned to repeatedly as a child. I was lucky enough to grow up spending my October break from school exploring the Big Island’s seas, parks, and beaches.

So I jumped at the recent chance to return with Fairmont Orchid, a resort perched toward the northern tip of the island on the stunning Kohala Coast. I had the chance to experience the beaches and the stunning coastline just off of the property and revisit a few Kona-side locations — longtime favorite places that I’ll share with you here.

If you’re planning a trip to Hawaii’s Big Island, you’ll fly into the Kona International Airport, and, more likely than not, you’ll be staying somewhere along the western or Kona coast side, also known as the “dry side” of the island. 

Here are the places to know about in and around Kona, and my top things to do in Kona and the Kohala Coast. Depending upon your desired daily pace, you can mix and match day and night activities to create your own one-week itinerary for the Big Island.

Kailua-Kona

This is the main town on the Big Island, and where you’ll find most of the island’s historic buildings including King Kamehameha’s former home — as well as most of the shopping. It’s the center of activity and commerce for the island, including the airport you arrived in.

The weather here is dry and sunny most days of the year, and there are some especially charming parts of Kailua-Kona, especially along the coast. I love taking a drive from the center of town along Ali’i Drive, which winds along Kailua Bay. Driving south you’ll hit Keauhou, which I’ll mention more about below.

The Kohala Coast

Heading north from Kona you’ll hit an open stretch of highway until you start seeing turnoffs to the beaches and resorts. Once you see signs for Anaehoomalu Bay, you’ve reached the beautiful Kohala Coast. Several resorts, as well as Waikoloa Village, call this area home.

If you’re staying here you can also expect mostly sunny days, and you’ll have access to some of the best beaches on the island. I recommend having a car regardless, but you’ll need one if the Kohala Coast is your base during your stay.

Things to Do in Kona and Kohala

on the Kona side of the Big Island

Ocean Adventures

Snorkeling and/or Scuba Diving

A huge portion of the Big Island’s beauty lies under the water’s surface. No matter your comfort level with the ocean or with wildlife encounters, there is a range of underwater experiences to suit all.

Manta Ray Night Snorkel

I love scuba diving, but I am terrified of any night dive/swim/snorkel. I finally had the chance to snorkel with the mantas in Keahou Bay, and let me just say: 1) they took care of everything so well that I wasn’t even scared and 2) it was one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve had in the ocean (or on land.)

Whether it comforts or annoys you that you’ll be surrounded by dozens of other people while you snorkel with them, it doesn’t matter much because you’re head in the sea, relaxing and drifting above a light that attracts the phytoplankton they eat. I went with SeaQuest and found it to be a fantastic operation all around.

Swimming with Sea Turtles

One of the most magical creatures you can see in the Kona waters is the honu, or sea turtle. They are quite present and chances are that you’ll see one if you snorkel multiple times during your trip. (Please do not disturb them on land or sea — keep your distance and show some respect.)

That said, you can certainly increase your chances by choosing your snorkeling site accordingly. I went in the ocean every morning (snorkeling is always best in the morning!) while staying at the Fairmont Orchid, and the bay off of the resort is one of the best spots I’ve ever found…I saw them every single time.

Snorkeling for Beginners and/or Kids

Another good spot to spot sea turtles is also one of the most family-friendly snorkel sites by Kona. Although it can get crowded due to its popularity and central location, Kahalu’u Beach Park is a sheltered cove with easy entry/exit similar to the Fairmont beach option. These calmer waters tend to attract both the turtles and the newer snorkelers (plus tons of fish!)

Kona by Boat

By far my favorite way to experience the Kona area and Kohala Coast is from the water and on a boat. Here are my top recommendations for how to do so:

Visit Kealakekua Bay

Located south of Kona and just after Keahou, Kealakekua Bay is one of the most beautiful spots on the Kona coast. Known to some as Captain Cook’s Bay for the presence of the Captain Cook monument there (it’s where he was killed,) it’s most notably a marine reserve and one of the best spots to snorkel on the island.

The last time I visited I drove and parked at the southern side of the bay, bringing my own gear (rented from Boss Frog’s in downtown Kona) and snorkeling along the water’s edge. I don’t recommend this route unless you favor ocean exploration and are an experienced swimmer, but it can be done without guidance.

For most of my visits, I opt for renting a kayak or taking a boat trip to the bay. Kealakekua is the focus of the Fairwind II snorkel trip, so you’ll see it if you book with them.

Go Surfing and/or Boogie Boarding

Until I get better at surfing someday, boogie boarding or even body surfing is my wave action of choice. Always be aware of surf conditions before entering the water, and if you’re hesitant about safety better to stay onshore than be swept away.

I recommend purchasing an inexpensive boogie board if your accommodation doesn’t have any, and you plan on riding waves for more than a few days as it often won’t cost much more than a rental would. (But it depends on the length of your stay.)

Adventures on Land

Most of the land-based adventures you’ll want to seek will be somewhat of a drive from Kona the west side of the Big Island. Still, there are a few that are closer that I recommend:

Visit a Kona Coffee Farm

If you’re a coffee connoisseur or enthusiast, it’s worth seeking out Kona coffee — grown in the rich volcanic soil and known worldwide for its quality. Take it one step further and you can visit a coffee farm to learn about and see the production process.

Find a Farmer’s Market

Since I grew up enjoying the Kona Costco as my main food stop, this is a recent find for me. Tropical fruits, local, handcrafted products, and more await. The main Kona Farmers Market runs Wednesday to Sunday from 7 am to 4 pm, but here’s a list of all the farmers markets on the island.

If you’re interested in exploring the island by land rather than sea, you’ll want to rent a car and check out the spots below. All are day-trippable from the Kona and Kohala coasts, but some are longer drives than others.

Explore the Towns of Waimea and Hawi

Waimea and Hawi are both a short drive from the Kohala Coast and offer a bit more of a local, small-town feel than Kona or Hilo. In Waimea, be sure to check out Arvo for coffee, Pau for amazing breakfast burritos or pizza, and Hawaiian Style Cafe for their loco moco and haupia pancakes — both of which will give you a taste of local Hawaiian flavor on a huge scale (the pancakes are seriously the largest ones I’ve ever seen.)

Very Worthwhile Big Island Day Trips

(the top three are musts for me)

Hawaiian Cultural Experiences

Place of Refuge / Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

This is my favorite place to go on the island to connect with the history and culture of Hawaii. The Place of Refuge provided a place for Hawaiians to seek safety and forgiveness from a priest when fleeing a crime. Located just south of Kealakekua Bay, making it a great combination activity to do both in one day.

Hula Lessons

It’s one thing to admire hula at a luau, and another to try dancing it yourself! I had the best time learning about the beautiful Hawaiian form of storytelling and movement as a part of my stay at Fairmont Orchid (reserve in advance.) It seems that most hula lessons for the public are given at hotels and resorts

Waikoloa Petroglyphs

This was another discovery on my most recent trip, as it was very close to where I stayed. Even though you have to walk through a resort to get to them, connecting with the centuries-old art carved into the rock is humbling. Get there via a short stroll from the Waikoloa Hotel (near Kings’ Shops.)

Spa/Relaxation

Spa Without Walls

In my ideal world, every spa would share this concept — open-air massage with the sound of waterfalls or the ocean, the touch of a warm sea breeze, and the shade of a tropical tree.

Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel, it’s worth seeking a relaxing treatment at the Fairmont Orchid spa (treat yourself.) Their pool and hammocks are also lovely for relaxing.

Standup Paddle Board Yoga on the Ocean

I hadn’t been on a SUP in the ocean before, and I certainly hadn’t done yoga on one! This was one of my favorite new experiences on the Big Island.

It was a standard vinyasa yoga class in the most non-standard location. You take a board from the shore out to the shallow bay at the Fairmont Orchid just as the sun is rising. And even though I’m a seasoned yogi who practices regularly, I still managed to fall in the water — but I didn’t mind! It was wonderful to practice in such a peaceful place where my balance was still challenged (and I could see fish swimming underneath my feet the whole time!)

Beach Time

Whether you want a private beach cabana or simply want your toes in the sand, you can’t beat beach time on the Big Island. Most of the best beaches on the Kona side — see below for my favorites!

P.S. Know Your Public Beach Rights

Most of the Big Island’s best beaches can be found on the same stretch of the Kohala Coast. One thing I wish I had realized earlier is that many of the top resorts have to allow public beach access and free parking to a limited number of visitors per day. This means you can enjoy some of the best beaches right on luxury resort properties without paying the hundreds (or thousands) per night to stay there.

A few to note include the Mauna Kea Beach (Kauna’oa) at the Mauna Kea Resort, Kikaua Beach at Kukio Golf Resort, and Kukio Beach at the Four Seasons Hualalai. Simply ask for public beach access at the gated areas before arrival. There is a limit on the number of daily visitors, so your best bet is to arrive as early as possible in the day.

Big Island Beaches >> Kona side

Makalawena Beach

This is my favorite beach in the world. Although I will often take a boat here, you can also access it by land. You have to hike for a bit over lava rock (I recommend doing this in the early morning — much more pleasant,) but the reward is fewer crowds — and one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (in my humble opinion.)

How to find it: the entrance to it is located between mile markers 90 and 91. If you have trouble finding it by map, look for Kekaha Kai State Park, which it is a part of. Head to nearby Kua Bay (also a great beach) if you’d like easier access. Both are just north of Kona International Airport.

Beach 69

Another somewhat hidden local favorite, Beach 69 (named so for its location near the mile marker, of course) aka Waialea Bay is all-around wonderful. I think it’s best for snorkeling and shade, naturally provided during most of the day by the many trees on the beach.

Kauna’ona Beach

Growing up this was just the Mauna Kea beach to me as it is directly in front of the Mauna Kea Beach Resort (a beautiful hotel.) What most people don’t realize is that there is public parking (although limited) at the hotel for access to this beautiful beach. It’s a lot like Hapuna but on a smaller scale.

Hapuna Beach

This is the long and wide white sand beach of your Hawaii dreams. Although it is home to resort traffic and can get crowded, its beauty and convenience make it a draw — particularly so for swimmers, boogie boarders, and families.

Anaehoomalu Bay

Known to many as simply ‘A Bay,’ Anaehoomalu is a favorite for windsurfing and sunsets.

If you’re looking for more beach information, or simply any information at all to be frank — I recommend the latest version of this guidebook which I have been using for 20+ years (the best.)

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I hope this gives you the guidance you seek for the most excellent trip to Hawaii’s Kohala Coast and Kailua-Kona. Let me know which part you love most! Mahalo <3

UPDATED: March 2023. Disclaimer: One of my many visits to the Big Island was in collaboration with the Fairmont Orchid. All opinions and destination recommendations come from decades of trips and are distinctly my own.

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An itinerary fit for two days…or two months (mon dieu.)

My wish and hope for you is that you have more than a weekend in Paris. Alors, a visitor’s mindset is that it’s always ‘le weekend’…plus, few days in Paris is better than no time in Paris at all!

Most years, I spend most of October in France. And most of that time is spent in Paris.

(By the way, October is the best month to be in Paris – if you ask me.)

There is something magical about any time spent in the French capital, particularly if you’re a visitor to the city. Even if you have just a weekend in Paris, you can take a ‘flaneur’ or ‘flaneuse’ approach, which just means one who wanders for pleasure and without aim.

If your ideal Paris weekend includes a desire to hit the major museums and monuments, or if you haven’t visited before, you may wish to spend your time differently and take a meandering approach on a return visit. This relaxed, curious method of exploring the city can be frustrating for someone who has limited time or is visiting for the first time — I get that.

If you had only a weekend to spend in Paris, would you run around checking off boxes, seeing as many sights as possible, and queueing to see a famous piece of art? Or would you stroll along the Seine, linger over a book in a cafe, and picnic in a park?

I will guide you not by ‘what to do on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.’ I will instead give you the framework resulting from my many favorite days and weeks in the city. And if you have visited before, I believe this ‘Weekend in Paris’ way of experiencing the city will open up its beauty to you in a whole new way.

Let the mindset of the purposeful wandering of the flâneur be your guide.

Pick an arrondissement and make it your base for the whole time you’re there.

It’s most convenient to choose your accommodation in this neighborhood as well, but you don’t have to.

A few favorites:

Choose a pâtisserie you can go back to each morning of your trip.

Of course the one you choose would ideally be near your accommodation so that you can get to know the people there and greet them every morning or so, almost as if you lived there.

A few suggestions:

I also love visiting Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in Paris (located in the Marais))

Get a place with a balcony.

Not a 100% necessary move, but one that is certainly enjoyable. I like drinking my local coffee and/or wine on a balcony that’s private to me, as well as enjoying the big windows and absorbing Paris in motion from above. (Recommended apartments listed at end of post!)

Bring your own picnic to a park.

Some recommended parks for picnics:

Suggested picnic goods:

Rent bikes using the Velib system.

Or, take a stroll on the Seine

Be a flâneur/flâneuse.

One of the greatest pleasures of Paris is simply wandering the streets with no plan. Put on your best walking shoes, soak in the beauty, and give it a try — you never know what you might find.

Not sure where to start? I love strolling from Saint-Germain-des-Prés past the Notre Dame cathedral, some of the most beautiful bridges across the Seine, and the Île Saint Louis, perhaps stopping for ice cream at Berthillon or in to see the impressive stained glass at Saint Chapelle. Nearby you’ll find one of my favorite tucked-away squares, Place Dauphine. This is one of my favorite self-led walking tours in all the city and the recipe for the perfect Paris day. Enjoy <3

Discover French wine at a local wine bar.

Wander into a wine bar at happy hour or later in the evening. Discover regions of wine (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, etc.) and enjoy the free-flowing inexpensive wines. Particularly good on a Paris weekend. I love:

Dine at a classic bistro.

Lingering over classic French food at a long-standing Parisian bistro is always a good idea. A few I recommend:

Sit en terrasse for a few hours.

Like the seated version of being a flaneur, one of the very best ways to experience Paris is to watch the world pass by from a cafe. You can’t go too far without running into one, but here are some cafe etiquette tips, along with a few favorite cafes:

Try out a newer restaurant.

Modern Paris has a variety of cultures and cuisines to sample. Check out Septime, Semilla, Verjus, Papillion, and Frenchie (to name a few) for some fantastic food that’s more modern than classic. There are also some incredible restaurants with non-French cuisine if you’re looking for more options. Pick up the book The New Paris before your trip for more.

A few more (local) dining resources:

Enjoy some of the excellent lesser-known museums.

If you’ve seen them before, I highly recommend skipping the fight with the crowds at The Louvre and D’Orsay. Many of the smaller museums of Paris are sadly overlooked by even frequent visitors. The three I’d head to first are:

Go in search of France’s regional cuisines.

There is a lot to love about Parisian food, and don’t think just in terms of French food! However, here are a few to taste from other regions of France while you’re in the city.

Explore the French pharmacy – especially if you’re interested in skincare.

And, Choose Your Own Adventure

Make a pilgrimage to Shakespeare and Company, Paris’s most famous English bookstore. It’s a friendly and important home to a lot of the city’s past and present literary scene.

See the Eiffel Tower up close. If you’ve already stood under it/beside it, check out a new angle or sit at a cafe that has a view of it. (I once tried to skip the Eiffel Tower on a visit, insisting I didn’t need to visit it, but I caved and went to see it and lo and behold, it still charms.) Another good, somewhat hidden spot to view it is the rooftop terrace of the Galeries Lafayettes — simply go to the 7th floor of the department store for a (free) panoramic view of Paris.

Versailles is truly a sight to behold, and it’s a quick train ride from Paris. If you’re really interested in going, it’s very worth it. However, there is so much to do/see in Paris I usually recommend staying in the city if you only have limited time. It remains one of the best day trips from Paris.

What to pack for a weekend in Paris:

How to Make French Friends (or at the least, have the best chance of starting off on a good foot wherever you go:)

Say ‘bonjour’ or ‘bonsoir’ and ‘merci, au revoir’ as you enter and exit any storefront or restaurant.  Even if you don’t speak any other French, it’s an important part of French culture to say these things upon entry/exit and will you put you miles ahead of others for service and general friendliness when in Paris.

Also, it may sound funny but smiling is generally frowned upon (ha.) You’ll find that French people may not be as warm and friendly as you’re used to in other places, especially if you’re coming from the States. Remember, this does not mean they’re not lovely people — and you might find that out with a little bit of spoken French and/or working to fit into French culture while you’re there.

Where to Stay in Paris

Bon voyage <3

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Both of us write about travel for a living, so as we planned our first retreat we considered spots around the globe for its location. We’re also two Northern California ladies living in San Francisco, though — and we realized that the beauty within a few hours drive from SF warranted staying closer to home.

Hopping in the car from SF, Carmel is just a two-hour drive from the city — and when you get there, you get a whole new vibe.

Dark green cypress trees frame deep blues and turquoises of the clear sea. Waves crash powerfully along the rugged California coastline. Colorful tiles line stairwells end at art galleries, garden passageways, and wine tasting rooms. Homes and shops feel a bit like they’ve been plucked out of a European fairytale.

Although I tend not to overuse the word ‘charming’ to describe a place, it’s the exact word that best suits Carmel-by-the-Sea.

I grew up visiting the coast from Monterey to Carmel often as a child. Still, we would need to thoroughly research the area and intimately get to know Carmel to host a group there in the way we wanted.

So now, I present…my heavily researched and double-triple-checked guide to Carmel, California — an easy day or (ideally) weekend trip from San Francisco. It’s one of my top picks for a getaway from the city.

Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Carmel

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Getting from SF to Monterey/Carmel

Without traffic, it takes just over two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey and Carmel. For every recent trip, however, we left San Francisco just before 6 am to beat all the traffic. Because you drive through the city and down past San Jose, there can be several slowdowns. I’d recommend driving in off-peak hours if you can — even if you’re just driving from the SFO airport.

If you have the time, Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove or Pebble Beach (near Monterey) are a few other stops to consider. Going from San Francisco to Carmel via Highway 1 is another slightly slower, but more scenic option that winds around the coastline.

And then when you arrive? Here’s what you need to know:

Things to Do in Carmel

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Stroll the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea

Walking along Ocean Avenue will take you past most of the town’s highlights. Be sure to duck into alleyways and passages that often lead to patios and gardens. (The Thomas Kinkade Gallery side door leads to one of the best!) Check out the Tuck Box and Cottage of Sweets to see some of the most fairytale-esque spots.

Walk the trails of Point Lobos State Park

I especially love the walk to China Cove, where you will see not only beautiful landscapes but also dozens of cute, chubby seals chilling on the beach below. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife — it’s not uncommon to see sea otters, seals, native birds, even whales (December to May.)

Spend a leisurely morning or an afternoon at Carmel Beach

Carmel Beach at the edge of town (and no more than a few blocks from everything) is one of the most beautiful beaches in California to me. Its soft, white sands and deep blue waters, often accompanied by impressive waves, make this a favorite spot for many. Walk or bike on the bluffs above, check out the oceanfront cottages as you go, and sit and relax on the sand if the weather allows.

Visit the Carmel Mission

The California Missions are some of the most beautiful and important parts of our state’s history. (Ask anyone who grew up here which one they did a report on in grade school!) Mission Carmel is one of the most beautiful, and most traditionally restored, of the 21 missions across the state.

Take the scenic drive down Highway 1, or the 17 Mile Drive

As adorable as the town of Carmel is, there is nothing better to me than a relaxed drive down the coastline just outside of it. Drive for just thirty minutes south and you can see some of the incredible scenery of California’s central coast. The 17 Mile Drive, while stunning, requires you to pay to enter ($9.50.) It’s worth doing at least once, but to me, there’s nothing more freeing or appealing than just taking off down the winding coastline.

Carmel Food

Where to Eat in Carmel

These are my favorite places to grab a bite in Carmel-by-the-Sea (after several visits.)

• Cultura Carmel: dinner + cocktails
• La Bicyclette: lunch or dinner
• Brophy’s Tavern: lunch or dinner + drinks
• Chez Noir: dinner
• The Stationaery: coffee, brunch, or lunch

Read more about the Best Restaurants in Carmel << in this post!

Vineyard Visit

Best Wineries in Carmel Valley

Folktale Winery

When we began scouting spaces in June last year, we knew we wanted to find and highlight some of the great (and low-key!) wine they’re making in Carmel Valley.

As soon as we stepped into the magical place that is Folktale Winery, we stopped the search. Their property is stunning, especially if you love modern design meets French chateau meets greenhouse space!

To us, the atmosphere is so special (and reflects Carmel so much,) and the food and wine was great (try their sparkling rosé!) that short of spending the whole weekend in Carmel Valley, this one winery will more than suit your needs. There are tons of tasting rooms in town, but Folktale Winery is a short 10-15 minutes away by car and worth visiting.

Bernadus and Georgis Winery were the other two that came highly recommended if you want to add to your wine tour of Carmel Valley during your stay.

Best Places to Stay in Carmel

Hotel Carmel

What I love most about Hotel Carmel isn’t just its size (a handful of rooms,) its location (right where you can walk to everything without being in a busy section of town,) or its beautiful design, but just how much staying there feels like home to me. Everything from a lobby that feels like a living room to a self-serve breakfast of bagels with fresh homemade strawberry cream cheese to the local wines served fireside makes me feel both comfortable and like I’m giving myself a little splurge. It remains my top hotel choice for Carmel.

La Playa Carmel

La Playa is the largest, more beachfront sister property of Hotel Carmel. It’s got a little bit more of a classic Carmel resort (rather than fresh and trendy) vibe, yet it’s similarly comfortable with large fireplaces, a friendly staff, and a great patio. Check out La Playa to see if it’s more your style…also highly recommended!

Hofsas House

If you’re looking for a friendly and budget-friendly place to stay right in the heart of town, you can do no better than the pink-colored Hofsas House.

The family-owned property has a historic past but retains its hospitality and warmth today. Actual warmth — via the dry sauna and heated pool on site or the in-room fireplace if you’re lucky — is a huge bonus on a chilly coastal day. You’ll be welcomed with friendly service, free breakfast (with fresh local pastries!), free parking, large room size, and many more amenities that make this a personalized and all-around lovely base in Carmel. Ask about ocean view room availability.

Neighboring Getaways

There’s so much around Carmel-by-the-Sea that’s worth seeing. Here are a few spots you can add to your Carmel vacation if you’re continuing down the coast.

Monterey

Enjoy the Monterey Bay Aquarium (my forever favorite,) Cannery Row, scuba diving, whale watching, and more.

It takes about two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey, whereas Monterey to Carmel takes only 10-12 minutes. Even if my visit is just to Carmel, I make a point to stop at Captain + Stoker, an excellent coffee shop in Monterey. I also loved Alvarado Street Brewery.

Big Sur

The two stars of the Big Sur coastline (which is a star in itself the whole way down) are McWay Falls and Bixby Bridge — the likes of which you’ve no doubt seen all over Instagram. I’m a fan of driving to Bixby Bridge for sunset at the very least, and love stopping to take in the coastline in Garrapata State Park‘s beaches and rocky, seascape nooks.

If you have the time, a camping trip in Big Sur amongst the trees and fresh coastal air is also very worth it!

Other Good Things To Note!

• You can fly directly into Monterey Regional Airport (MRY) from many West Coast airports. It’s worth connecting there rather than driving from SFO if you can manage it. It’s about ten minutes in an Uber to Carmel from there.
• Carmel is one of the most dog-friendly cities I’ve been to! If you’re lucky enough to have a four-legged friend in tow, you’ll be surprised to learn that the majority of Carmel hotels and restaurant patios are welcoming to dogs.
• There’s a beautiful, beautiful beach just past Carmel Beach (if you continue down the road, past where the parking ends.) It’s shaped like a crescent, is hardly ever crowded, and on a sunny day rivals any other beach I’ve seen in this world for natural beauty.

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I’ve spent many weekends, birthdays, and other celebrations exploring Napa food and neighboring wine country across Healdsburg, Sonoma, and Napa Valley. I have my go-tos in the Sonoma square and my favorite spots in the town of Healdsburg, yet somehow I had hardly spent any time exploring downtown Napa.

With the help of one of my oldest friends (who is now a winemaker and local there) I created a list of the best restaurants in Napa’s downtown area to scout out. I wanted to include not only wine tasting rooms and fancier restaurants but also craft breweries, markets, and local’s favorite places to eat.

I set out on a mission to see what flavors await those who may want to experience wine country but not jump into the crowds and craziness that can be the Napa Valley (word has gotten out!)

Downtown Napa Restaurants & Wine Tasting

Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa

After a short drive from the city, I decided to park myself in downtown and use it as a base to explore. Staying for a few nights in downtown Napa allowed us to walk everywhere (and not need to worry about designated drivers.) It’s a relaxing way to roam from one eatery to another, stopping for a stroll by the river or to browse some art in between. It became my new favorite wine country discovery, and equipped with this list and/or your own thirst for culinary experiences there…I am certain it will be yours, too.

Here is the list, which evolved a bit as I did my own hopping around:

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Note: I walked in without a reservation during my stay, but you may want to reach out ahead of time if you have a specific timing need or will be with a group larger than two.

Downtown Napa Wine Tasting Rooms

Acumen

A truly beautiful interior, lovely staff, an adjoining art gallery, and some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc I’ve had? What more could you ask for? If you go tasting at just one spot in downtown Napa, make sure you stop in here.

Compline

Named one of America’s top wine restaurants, Compline is top spot to sip wine They also offer wine education classes from their sommelier that I’m dying to get to.

Trahan-Prime Cellars Tasting Room

If you’re looking for a relaxed and comfortable wine tasting experience that feels a little like being in someone’s home (as opposed to a stuffy tasting room,) look no further than this friendly spot in downtown Napa. Two wineries have joined forces here, so you can taste a variety with the help of the knowledgeable staff. Also: priced extremely reasonably.

Brown Downtown

A beautifully designed and newly opened space, Brown Estate (located in nearby St. Helena) makes excellent wines, particularly their Zinfandel. The tasting room is chic, and the tasting price is steep ($40-50) but there is no doubt it’s one of the best places to drink wine in downtown Napa.

Best of Downtown Napa Beer

St. Clair Brown

This place was our favorite discovery of the trip and what will singlehandedly keep us coming back to downtown Napa. Veteran winemakers and brewers came together to create a boutique urban space, complete with a culinary garden, that is both comfortable and chic. During our visit, the warm and welcoming staff not only served us some of the best wine and beer of the weekend but came around with bites straight from the garden for us to taste. Safe to say (because well, we joined the beer club…) that this is one place we’ll be back to again and again. Highly recommended!

Trade Brewery

It was a delight to discover relative newcomer Trade Brewery, which is already winning awards for its craft beers that they continue to refine. Their taproom is friendly, and highlights of my flight and tasting included their 220 V Juicy IPA and Hatchet IPA, but all their beers are tasty. It’s nice to see a beer scene developing alongside the wine industry in Napa. Definitely worth a visit!

Tannery Bend

A short walk from the central area downtown, Tannery Bend is another great addition to the growing craft beer scene in Napa. They make both classic ales and pilsners and experiment with seasonal and unique brews. Their saison in particular gets rave reviews.

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Breakfast

C Casa

Two words: breakfast tacos! You can see them making the tortillas by hand, and while there’s no shortage of excellent Mexican food in California, they’re really doing it right here. Located inside Oxbow Market.

Alexis Baking Company

items like a leek and goat cheese omelet or creme brûlée French toast alongside freshly baked goods make this the go-to spot for locals who want a hearty breakfast.

Model Bakery

just around the corner from Oxbow, it’s an outpost of the famous Napa Valley bakery. They make artisan breads and are perhaps most well known for their English muffins (which Oprah apparently flies in for, NBD!)

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Lunch

Angele

Give me a riverside French countryside restaurant and I’ll give you my new favorite place to eat. From foie gras torchon to steak tartare, they’ve got a range of classic French dishes. They serve dinner here as well but I love sitting outside during the day.

Oxbow Public Market

A variety of options await at Napa’s fantastic gourmet market. Favorite options include Kitchen Door, Hog Island Oyster Bar, and Gott’s Roadside (both of the latter have other locations.) It’s also a great place to browse for culinary goods ranging from spices to olive oil to specialty bitters.

Bounty Hunter BBQ (and wine bar)

A massive wine list, rare Scotch, and a barbecue menu that includes St. Louis ribs, smoked beef brisket, and beer can chicken makes any list of mine. It’s a casual place that takes the pretense out of Napa without losing any of the intensely good flavors.

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Dinner

Torc

Ah, this might take the cake as my favorite meal we ate in downtown Napa. The open kitchen and dining room are bustling with activity, but the dishes are expertly presented and as good as anything I’ve eaten this year. No matter what you order it’s bound to be good — whether a hamachi crudo or roasted pork belly. Their ‘Taste of Torc’ set menu is a great way to go if you want to sample the restaurant’s highlights.

Zuzu

A most excellent array of tapas await at this cozy Spanish restaurant that favors local and organic foods from Northern California.

Other Recommended Food:

• Morimoto
• La Taberna
• Gran Electrica
• Napa Valley Coffee Roasting

Recommended Downtown Napa Hotels

These are my top picks for where to stay in downtown Napa:

If you’re looking for a grand hotel: Archer Hotel (don’t miss the rooftop bar!)

If a B&B in a Victorian house is more up your alley: Hennessey House B&B

If you’re wanting space and great value: Embassy Suites Napa (their complimentary breakfast is excellent!)

If you make it there soon, let me know how your trip went and what your favorites were!

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P.S. More wine?

A Guide to Bordeaux Wine Tasting

—
P.P.S. Visiting San Francisco?

Where to Eat in San Francisco Series

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When the opportunity to housesit there arose, I thought: I’ll take the Paris to Bordeaux train down, do some Bordeaux wine tasting, eat a few French meals, and then…likely run out of things to do. I compared it to my day trips to Napa and Sonoma wine country — in which the area is beautiful, but there’d be much more for me to do in the city.

Oh how wrong I was!

Bordeaux is not just a wine region (although it is one of the world’s most famous.) It’s a city coming into its own — on the up for past ten years or so and with the largest protected city center in France, which received UNESCO World Heritage Status for its historic, cultural, and architectural value. The city has embraced its nickname of La Belle Endormie or “Sleeping Beauty,” having turned itself from a gritty port city to one of the most vibrant and beautiful small cities I’ve been to in Europe.

There is so much more than just wine in Bordeaux. Below I’ve included a few things worth seeing beyond the glass. Alas, most if not all travelers to the city and the Bordeaux region come with the intent of tasting the best Bordeaux wine — as they should. From the famous Grand Vin de Bordeaux and Bordeaux red wine to the delicate Sauternes (the only dessert wine I’ll drink,) and the incredible wine coming out of lesser known areas like Entre-deux-mers, there’s plenty to be had. And there’s no shortage of different places and ways to experience it. While the wine chateau can certainly be the way to go, many of them can be enjoyed without leaving the Bordeaux centre.

Spending several weeks in the same city, especially one as special as Bordeaux…you learn the best places to go (particularly for a glass of wine.) Here are my favorites… xx

Wine Tasting Bordeaux

Taste the Best Bordeaux Wine at a Local Wine Bar

This is my personal favorite way to sample the best French wines! Here are a few of the best Bordeaux wine bars:

• Aux Quatre Coins du Vin: This spot lets you taste incredible wines in a variety of pour sizes…meaning you can sip an expensive wine or try a bunch of different ones without having to get a glass. A great local place to hang out.

• CIVB Le Bar a Vin: The Conseil Interprofessionnel de Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) has opened their doors up in this beautiful wine bar at the center of town. They have tons of information on hand and can help you decide what to get, and they offer some of the region’s best wines in an affordable and approachable way.

• Le Wine Bar: I even love the exterior of this classic wine bar, which serves over 300 different wines in a cozy bistro setting.

Taste Rare Wines of the World

La Cite du Vin, the city’s must-see wine museum, takes visitors through the history and evolving cultural significance of wine not only in France but around the world. The seventh floor wine bar, however, with its birds eye view of the city and river, pours wines from otherwise unknown vineyards in places like Algeria and the Republic of Georgia.

Visit the Smallest Vineyard in Bordeaux

Grand vineyards and chateaus undeniably have their draw, but it’s hard to pass up the charm of ‘Vin de Jardin,’ a tiny winery that makes only 500 bottles a year. Set against the beautiful hotel Le Saint-James, you can find it just outside of the city in the town of Bouliac.

Bordeaux Wine Tours

A wine chateau can seem harder to get a reservation at than the top restaurants in France (especially if you don’t speak French.) For this reason, many visitors opt for a Bordeaux wine tour of the nearby vineyards and chateaux.

Which Bordeaux wine tour to take? It depends how much of the production process you want to see, how well known the chateau name is that you’re trying to visit, how much time you have, and how much you want to spend.

Visit the Bordeaux Tourist Office

Not only can they make recommendations and help you make reservations, they can give you the invaluable knowledge of when each of the vineyards is open (times vary widely.) There are also a variety that require a car to access, and the tourism office can point you in the right direction if you want to see some wineries by public transportation. I found them to be both friendly and informative.

Take a Tuk Tuk Through the Vines

Why walk or drive through the famous vines when you can drive through some of France’s most beautiful vineyards on the back of a tuk tuk? Cruise through narrow streets and top wine spots in a fun and unique way. You can hire one from the center of town or book in the tourist office. 

The Bordeaux to St Emilion train runs nearly every hour from Gare Saint-Jare and takes only about 30 minutes each way.

Things to Do in Bordeaux

Taste Traditional Sud Ouest French Cuisine

A classic, homey bistro that’s known to serve some of the most traditional and tasty food in the region, you’ll be welcomed to La Tupina like you’re in someone’s home in the countryside. A great way to taste what’s great about Southwest France  — and it’s my top restaurant recommendation for Bordeaux.

Reflect at the Miroir d’Eau

The world’s largest reflection pool happens to sit in one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Many come to play in the water or see the views, but it’s worth seeking out not only by day but by night when the historic city buildings are lit up.

See Bordeaux’s Alternative Side

The beautiful open-air space in Darwin, across the river from the historic city center, is a haven for artists and entrepreneurs. There are sustainability initiatives, the largest organic restaurant in France (and fantastic brunch!), vibrant street art, a skate park and more if you’re looking for the modern side of Bordeaux.

Visit the Markets

Whether it’s eating at the classic Marché des Capucins or strolling by the river on a Sunday for the Marché des Quai Chartrons, most of Bordeaux’s best food and wine can be found in a local market. Check out the book market (!) and the antiques markets as well!

Bordeaux Day Trips

Picnic Atop Europe’s Largest Sand Dune
Dune du Pilat, France

A short bus or car ride away from Bordeaux is the largest sand dune on the continent, which makes not only for a steep climb or a unique beach day but one of the most memorable places to bring some cheese and wine and enjoy a picnic in nature. You can get there in an hour by train from the Gare Saint-Jean.

Sample Oysters Straight from the Sea
Arcachon Bay, France

Whether at the local market or by the sea in nearby Arcachon, there’s no denying that slurping fresh oysters is an essential but often overlooked Bordeaux activity. I recommend a trip over to Cap Ferret (a short ride from Arcachon,) which is the most beautiful and laid-back French beach town I’ve ever heard of.

Where to Stay in Bordeaux

Bordeaux has some of the best value Airbnb stays I’ve seen in France! I have found great places for 1-2 people for as little as $25 a night, so there’s no excuse not to stay in Bordeaux for several days. Get $40 off your first stay.

If you’re more keen on a hotel stay, I’d recommend:

• Intercontinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hôtel (Luxury): This hotel is the hotel of Bordeaux — right at the heart of the city center, beautifully appointed, and worth a visit even if you aren’t staying there.
• Hotel de Seze: A beautiful hotel that’s also in the center of the city, it’s a comfortable and well-designed stay that’s a little more midrange in price (but no less lovely!)

More to come regarding this favorite city of mine, but I hope this will put Bordeaux on your radar and give you a place to start when it comes to wine tasting Bordeaux.

Cheers // À votre santé!

// More food + wine posts //

// Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa //

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Ah, Bangkok. The rush of a tuk-tuk whirling past you, the lip-smacking goodness of your first sizzling bowl of street noodles, the dazzling lights that reflect off of temples by day and rooftop bars by night.

Most visitors to the city seem to either adore or abhor it. To me, even after half a dozen visits it’s equal parts overwhelming and charming. The city has a lot happening beneath the surface: good, bad, and ugly. But more than anything there’s beauty and adventure (and food!) to be found — you just have to know where to look.

I happen to think the only reason people don’t love Bangkok is because they don’t know it well enough! Hence why, after my latest visit, I became determined to share a Bangkok itinerary and city guide that I wish I had had for my first visit.

What To Do, See, and Eat in Bangkok

An itinerary for one of Asia’s most exciting cities.

We’ll start with the top things to do.

If you have one day in Bangkok…

Visit temples

One of the joys of visiting Bangkok are its impressive Thai temples. From the Grand Palace to the small neighborhood wats, the spirituality of Thailand reverberates from its temple walls. Don’t miss:

• Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew)
• Wat Pho
• Wat Arun

Visit a market

If temples are the serene spirit of Bangkok, markets are its beating heartbeat. Whether it’s a new outfit or a hot meal you’re after, you’ll find it somewhere in Bangkok’s busting marketplaces.

• Chatuchak (also known as JJ) Weekend Market (here’s an in-depth guide)
• Yodpiman Fresh Flower Market (near Wat Pho)
• Or Tor Kor Food Market
• Ratchada Train Market
• Wang Lang Market

Eat some street food

Street food has a bit of a contentious presence in Bangkok at the moment, with city officials requesting a move toward the ban of food served on the streets. The unofficial claim is that it’s a move toward cleanliness and order, but locals and tourist alike agree that street food is a true highlight of being in Bangkok.

Street eats are not only accessible and affordable, but frequently some of the most delicious offerings. Carts, stalls, and stands — it matters not…just wander and eat! One of my longstanding favorite street food sois (or, street) has already been mostly dismantled. Do not despair — eat Bangkok street food while you still can though!

If you’re in a rush to find street food or aren’t having much luck, try these two spots for some targeted street eating:

Sukhumvit Soi 103
Chinatown’s Yaowat Road
Any of the major markets (see above)

Another excellent resource: writer Matt Gross offered up a Google map in the NYT less than a year ago of his favorite spots for Bangkok street food post-ban.

If you have two days in Bangkok…

Visit some more temples.

There are hundreds, so you won’t be short if you take to the streets and give yourself time to enter the temples you see around you. A day trip to nearby Ayutthaya adds even more fascinating and significant temples to the mix, or you can add Wat Saket (Golden Mountain,) Wat Tramit (near Chinatown,) and Wat Benjamabhopit to your list.

Take a river cruise

You can opt either to get around on the Chao Priya River (not a bad idea) for the day, or just hop onto a boat for a few stops for an inexpensive view of the city from the water and a slice of daily Bangkok life.

For a more organized affair, I highly recommend Supanniga Cruises. They have a dinner cruise (with complimentary champagne!) that serves up six authentic courses with the beautiful backdrop of sunset on the river. Though the light is most beautiful just before dinner, there is also an afternoon cruise that serves tea and traditional Thai sweets (yes, please.)

Try a uniquely Thai activity

Some of my best memories in Thailand are of some of the activities or classes I sought out to try. Though many can be found throughout the country, Bangkok is as good a place as any to jump in. Check out whatever interests you most.

• Thai cooking class: making your own Thai meal with the proper Thai ingredients is a game-changing experience! I recommend one that also visits a local market, like Sompong Thai Cooking School.
• Muay Thai: aka Thai kickboxing. Watch a match or take a class! I absolutely loved my class at Krudam Gym.
• Thai massage: Admittedly you do want to be careful with the choice of establishment (I’ve wandered into places that offer services other than massage…) when you’re going the budget route. And I recommend you do! There are hundreds of excellent, reputable massage spots that offer a respite from a long day of walking, touring, or traveling for less than $10. (I recommend Siam Breeze in Khlong Toei if you want to be extra sure!)

See Bangkok at night

• Visit a rooftop bar

My favorites are the Sky Bar at Lebua at State Tower (which you may recognize from The Hangover 2) and Vertigo at the Banyan Tree Bangkok. I still think these are some of the best places to visit in Bangkok at night, if nothing else for the views and the city lights.

• Explore the seedy streets.

While I’m not necessarily recommending you seek out the sketchier side of Bangkok, I’ll admit I was curious. I stumbled upon Soi Cowboy (between Sukhumvit Soi 21 and 23) and while I was quite uncomfortable there, it was interesting to see some of what Bangkok is known for (go-go bars, etc.) out in the open. Other streets or bars will have very young Thai women or ladyboys soliciting business out front. And while we certainly shouldn’t gawk at it, it is the reality of what you may see and that’s why I’m addressing it.

Khao San Road is the famous backpacker area that I’ve tended to avoid at all costs, but many travelers really enjoy the scene and if it’s a lively night out, a classic pair of elephant pants (which I’ll admit, I quite enjoy,) or a couple of Thailand travel cliches you’re after, you’re likely to find it there.

If you have three days in Bangkok (or more…)

See something off-the-beaten-path.

• Go cycling and exploring on the island of Bang Kachao (‘The Green Lung.’)

This is one of my favorite experiences I’ve ever had in the city. Once you’ve seen the main sights, if you’re not opposed to biking I would check out this lesser known area. The nature and lack of tourists alone make it a worthy addition to your itinerary. I hired my bike from a Bangkok local tour company called Spice Roads, and they also do guided tours.

While there, try to stop in at:

• • Bang Nam Pheung floating market
  • Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park (take a break from cycling here.)
  • A local restaurant that isn’t touristy (bonus points if served near or above someone’s home.)

• See the artist village of Baan Silipan

You can see a charming older village on the river, an art gallery, traditional Thai crafts, Thai puppet shows, and more at this beautiful spot in the Phasi Charoen district.

Take a day trip.

Here are some of my favorite day trips from Bangkok:

• Ayutthaya 
  • The former Thai capital was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century, but the remains of the historic city and its many temples. I had heard mixed things about prioritizing a visit, but when I finally made it there I wished I had gone sooner. Make sure to seek out some of the lesser visited temples.
• Floating markets
  • Damnoen Saduak is the most famous one, and hence the most crowded. I prefer Amphawa (afternoons and evenings only.) Both are about 1.5 hours driving from Bangkok, and you will find no shortage of drivers to take you there (negotiate price in advance!)

Explore a new neighborhood.

More of a choose-your-own-adventure approach, I love choosing a neighborhood in any city to explore for a day. Here are a few that are particularly worth checking out in Bangkok:

• Chinatown/Yaowarat
• Thonglor
• Thonburi

Get to any of the markets, temples, or activities you didn’t get to in your first few days.

What To Eat in Bangkok

You can’t go too wrong with food in Thailand. Eating is perhaps the best part of being in Thailand. Regional foods are going to vary, but here are a few tried-and-true favorite eats to get you started on your Thai culinary adventures.

• Mango sticky rice – insane dessert
• Pad see ew – delicious noodle dish
• Khao mun gai  – chicken with rice
• Boat noodles – a popular noodle soup
• Som tam – papaya salad
• Pad Thai – the classic Thai dish
• Tiny coconut pancakes – just say yes
• Khao soi – coconut curry soup

Keep in mind that if you ask for spicy, “Thai spicy” is a whole other level of heat. Best to start with asking for mild (which most cooks are used to adjusting for Western palates) and build up your spiciness level from there.

Need more? Mark Wiens of Migrationology has been my go-to for Bangkok food recommendations since day one.

Where to Stay in Bangkok

I’ve been lucky enough to have a range of experiences staying at a variety of hotels, guesthouses, and hostels in Bangkok.

Here are the favorites I’ve enjoyed the most:

• The Athenee Bangkok (Luxury) << This is my absolute favorite hotel in Bangkok, but it’s more of a splurge.
• Lebua at State Tower (Middle) << Incredible value, huge rooms. Famous rooftop bar.
• House 23 Guesthouse (Budget) << A clean, well-located option if you’re looking for a cheaper, smaller guesthouse.
• Chan Cha La 99 (Hostel) << Nice spot for a solo traveler/backpacker – not in Khao San Road!

And I’ve got my eye on Hotel 103 Bed and Brews or Aster 9 (beautiful spaces + high praise!) for my next stay.

Other Bangkok Tips:

• Embrace the Skytrain! This is the easiest way to get around the city, especially when there is heavy traffic. (And there’s always heavy traffic.) The routes aren’t always the most convenient, and it’s tempting to just hail a tuk tuk or one of those cute pink cabs, but you’ll often get there quicker and the clean, fast, and easy Skytrain.
• Beware of scams. Don’t let anyone tell you the Grand Palace is closed…they want to take you to their gem shop. On that note, don’t take any super discounted or free tuk-tuk or taxi rides. Make sure your taxi driver turns the meter on, or that you’ve agreed on a price for your tuk-tuk journey before you start driving. Take my word for it!
• Look out for spirit houses. You may notice as you travel in Thailand that many homes and businesses have a tiny house, often elevated, out front. The small structures often have offerings like food or drink near them as well.
  Ghosts and spirits are embedded in Thai beliefs, and the spirits houses are thought to provide shelter to friendly spirits (and appease the bad ones.) You’ll usually find them placed in corners, and once you know them you’ll begin to see them everywhere!
• Dress conservatively for temple visits. Both men and women will want to cover their shoulders and knees out of respect. Although strictness varies from wat to wat, you don’t want to be stuck not being able to enter for lack of proper dress. It can be especially difficult to remember during the super hot Bangkok days, so bringing a shawl or scarf along with you can be the easiest thing.
• The city’s full official name is… “Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.” << the world’s longest!

Tip for my SF based travelers: I’ve taken several different routes for the long haul flight to BKK from SFO…connecting in Tokyo, even in Dubai. On this last trip I connected through Guangzhou (CAN) which had two benefits — one, you can get 14.5 hours of flight time in on your first flight, leaving less than three hours to Bangkok once you complete the first leg (as opposed to 10 and then another 9.) You can also plan a short stop in China without dealing with the visa process for Americans, using their 72 hour transit visa (helloooo dim sum!)

Why Go

I know that most of you planning a trip want a quick overview of names of places or things to book. I get it — I’m the same way when researching a trip!

But I still hold onto the why in everything I write, and I want these itineraries to be no exception.

So here’s a quick note as to why you should experience Bangkok…

It’s no surprise that being in Bangkok for the first time feels a bit like taking a bite of Thai food for the first time. As an American traveler landing in Asia, the sound of “sawasdee kha” feels different in the ears. The sight of low light bouncing off the golden rooftop of a temple, or bright light illuminating a street crowded with power lines overhead… it’s all a bit, well, foreign. Flavors, sights, sounds, and smells that are unique just to this place; there’s no choice but to be inundated by new experiences here.

And that first bite is likely going to be too something…too sweet, too sour, too spicy. It shocks the system for a second, and you’re not sure what you feel. But as you relax into it, take a second or third bite, and breathe…that initial shock of newness starts to slightly wear off and you’re left with what feels something like the sweet scent of lemongrass or the smooth balance of a Thai tea.

Suddenly you realize that while again and again you may feel or taste or hear something like it’s the first time (Bangkok has a way of continuing to challenge you,) there’s a comfort and calm underneath the unfamiliarity that lingers. There’s a knowing smile where you expected shock. And as you come to know Bangkok, to know Thailand…you leave less and less with daze or awe and sit more and more in that calm.

That transformation is one that stays with you.

Disclosure: This latest trip to Bangkok was made possible by the Tourism Authority of Thailand and China Southern Airlines. I also have several trips to Bangkok under my belt that were paid for in full on my dime, and as always, all opinions are completely my own.

Bangkok too loud for you? Check out this story I wrote about Nan and why it’s worth it to see the quieter side of Thailand.

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Some people go to Nashville for the music. Or so I hear.

This second visit to Music City, however, was for me all about the food. My first time passing through, I had had my first mouth-burning bite of hot chicken, I sampled a meat-and-three, and then cooled said mouth off with a Jeni’s ice cream in Hillsboro Village (also, Pancake Pantry…hello!)

So one could say I whet my appetite for Nashville on that quick stop through a few years ago. When I found myself in Memphis this year, not a whole lot could stop me from going back — fork and knife in hand — for more.

From nights out in East Nashville to my first honky-tonk experience (ok, maybe it was also a little about the music,) to a Nashville Eats food tour, to restaurants and some of the best places to eat in Nashville, plus multiple stops at the same barbecue joint…it’s incredible how much you can learn about a city’s food scene in just a handful of days and 3-5 daily meals!

So, what are the classic must-haves for a foodie weekend in Nashville?

Here’s the list of the best places to eat in Nashville I wish someone had given me before I arrived.

Where to Eat in Nashville

A Nashville Food Guide (Best Suited for a Weekend)

Martin’s Bar-B-Que 

410 4th Ave S (Peabody)

Why It’s Cool: One look at their BBQ pits (you can ask to take a peek,) and you’ll understand why this place is a legendary spot for Tennessee barbecue. The best BBQ in Nashville!

What To Get: Ribs, of course! Their wings were also excellent. Or get a sampler platter so you don’t have to choose. Ask for a side of all the sauces to taste them all.

The 404 Kitchen

404 12th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: A delicious + fresh menu with unique items like scallop toast and rabbit. One of the best restaurants in downtown Nashville.

What To Get: The house-made burrata, chilled lamb salad, cornbread.

Rolf & Daughters

410 4th Ave S (Peabody)

Why It’s Cool: Widely acclaimed — this was probably the most recommended/highly rated restaurant recommended to me.

What To Get: Sourdough with seaweed butter, pasta, a cocktail!

Butcher & Bee

902 Main S

Why It’s Cool: If you’ve reached your breaking point for smoked meats and heavy sides and need some veggies, this seasonal spot is a welcome respite from your typical Southern eats.

What To Get: Whipped feta, shakshuka, avocado crispy rice.

Kitchen Notes

250 5th Avenue S

Why It’s Cool: Nashville food writer and cookbook author Jennifer Justus calls this one of the best biscuits in the city.

What To Get: Buttermilk biscuits with butter and jam!

Pancake Pantry

1796 21st Ave S

Why It’s Cool: If you love breakfast (and who doesn’t,) save room for this epic pancake spot with menu items like cornmeal pancakes cooked with green chilis or sweet potato pancakes. 

What To Get: Classic or crazy pancakes as suits your taste/mood that day. Add bacon at your own risk.

Mas Tacos Por Favor

732 McFerrin Ave

Why It’s Cool: Never one to search for Mexican food outside of California, Texas, or Mexico, these tacos still rock and should be enjoyed no matter your taco location snobbery.

What To Get: Tacos! (Duh.) Though I also hear rave reviews for their chicken tortilla soup and elote.

Las Paletas 

2911 12th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: It’s literally cool to get one of these flavorful and fresh popsicles, especially on a hot day.

What To Get: The classic and more inventive flavors (I got avocado) seem to all be a hit. Take your popsicle to the park across the street if the mood strikes you!

The Treehouse Restaurant Nashville

1011 Clearview Ave

Why It’s Cool: You won’t find this at the top of most Nashville food lists, but for me (and my friends) this was a highlight of all the places we ate at in Nashville. The food here is fantastic — and the atmosphere is fun, relaxed, and inviting. They also serve late night (until 1am.)

What To Get: We loved the beef tartare and the ramp noodles most!

Lockeland Table

1520 Woodland St

Why It’s Cool: Another East Nashville favorite, it feels like a true neighborhood spot yet the place is chic and food and drink is delicious. Go for the happy hour (4-6pm,) which is actually a community hour supporting a local design center.

What To Get: Their wood-fired pizzas are a highlight. In the summer, the one with peaches on top was divine.

Rosemary

1102 Forrest Ave

Why It’s Cool: A fantastic East Nashville cocktail spot with a fun ambiance and likely a chill crowd.

What To Get: One of the house cocktails. Sit on the back patio!

Husk

37 Rutledge St

Why It’s Cool: Well, I’ve only been to the location in Charleston, but it’s still one of my favorite dining experiences. Expect inventive dishes with heirloom Southern ingredients.

What To Get: A reservation. Then anything from the menu.

Frothy Monkey Coffeehouse

235 5th Ave N

Why It’s Cool: Full of freelancers and cappuccino sippers, it’s a local favorite for a reason and they serve brunch until 5pm (enough said.)

What To Get: Choose from a creative coffee menu and delicious breakfast and sandwich options.

Five Daughters Bakery

1110 Caruthers Ave (12th S); 1900 Eastland Ave (East Nashville)

Why It’s Cool: Cute design and to-die-for donuts.

What To Get: Maple bacon (mmm.)

CREMA

15 Hermitage Ave

Why It’s Cool: The best coffee I had in Nashville.

What To Get:Their coffee soda is unique, espresso is well-made, and the chai is quite good as well (if you’re feeling over-caffeinated!)

Woolworth on 5th

221 5th Ave

Why It’s Cool: A classic diner serving classic Southern eats with a large portion of history. This is where 1960s counter sit-ins of the civil rights movement took place.

What To Get: I loved their mac ‘n’ cheese and black-eyed peas. Many of the menu items have a story — so ask as you go!

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken

2222 8th Ave S

Why It’s Cool: It’s hot chicken. Take fried chicken, add cayenne pepper. Taste it, have water nearby, and see why the craze exists.

What To Get: Choose your spice level and your sides, buckle up, and get ready for a spicy ride.

Prince’s Hot Chicken

5814 Nolensville Pike; 123 Ewing Dr #3

Why It’s Cool: The O.G. hot chicken spot. Eat it and compare, because everyone is going to ask you to choose a favorite.

What To Get: Choose from mild, medium, hot, and extra hot (if you dare.)

Robert’s Western World

902 Main Street

Why It’s Cool: my reluctant adventure into honky tonks began here. I was surprised and delighted, and I’ll bet you would be too.

What To Get: they serve a $5 PBR and baloney sandwich with chips if you’re hungry…! Sip your drink of choice and soak up the atmosphere.

Other Highly Recommended Nashville Restaurants — on my list for next time:

• Patterson House
• The Catbird Seat
• Henrietta Red
• Arnold’s Country Kitchen
• Monell’s
• Five Points Pizza
• Pinewood Social (one of the most fun places to eat in Nashville!)

Other Cool Things To Do in Nashville (Besides eat, if you must:)

• Grand Ole Opry
• County Music Hall of Fame
• Ryman Auditorium
• Bluebird Cafe
• Radnor Lake
• Go mural hunting (clearly, we did.)

aaaaand lastly,

Walk Eat Nashville Food Tour 

A great overview and sampling of classic Nashville eats led by passionate locals and food writers. I did the classic downtown Nashville tour, but they also have an East Nashville and a Midtown tour.

Where To Stay in Nashville

I loved my stay at SoBro Guesthouse. With a fully equipped kitchen, laundry, and even the option to have groceries delivered, it really felt like I had an apartment in the heart of Nashville. I liked the hands-on check-in (you receive a code) and the fact that you can text a concierge for any help needed, but otherwise, your stay is fairly independent.

The design here, both in the rooms and in the outdoor patio area, is beautiful — clean, colorful, hip, and comfortable. I especially liked the record player and old records — a nice vintage touch!

Most importantly, the SoBro Guesthouse is within walking distance to many of the things you’ll want to see/eat (with dangerous proximity to Martin’s BBQ.) The rest of Nashville is at your fingertips with a quick Uber or Lyft ride. And if you’re driving — there’s free parking.

(Note: I stayed as a guest of SoBro Guesthouse during my Nashville weekend.)

The patio at SoBro

Happy traveling and eating!

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More: A Foodie’s Guide to New Orleans

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Barbecue, Blues, and Blogs in Memphis, Tennessee

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The American South is a region I keep getting called back to.

It could be the change of pace. It could be the charm, the favorite cities. It could be the fried chicken. This time, however, it was for Bloghouse — my favorite annual blogging conference (at which I mentor up-and-coming bloggers and teach travel writing.)

And when I found out I could fly direct from Oakland to Memphis for $59 (no, not a typo) and be eating Gus’s famous spicy fried chicken by lunchtime, I set out to brave the summer humidity and packed my bags faster than you can say “Bless Your Heart.”

Although I have and will continue to go on about Nashville, you don’t hear as much about Memphis these days. In fact, a Memphis resident I spoke with shared this hot take on the two Tennessee cities — “These days, Nashville is like the popular student in the classroom. Shiny hair and lots of time in the spotlight. Memphis though, Memphis is the quiet kid in the corner that might surprise you with how cool he really is.”

So, four days and several pounds later (worth it,) here’s what I found in Memphis: soul. If Nashville is country music, then Memphis is rhythm and blues. And when the city sings, you won’t want to compare it to any place else.

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Where to Eat in Memphis

Ah, the Southern food trifecta: fried chicken, barbecue, biscuits and gravy. (Washed down with a sweet tea, if that’s your thing.) To me these are the must-eats of any trip to the South, because quite frankly they don’t taste as good anywhere else. And lucky for you Memphis visitors, the city does them all right.

Gus’s Fried Chicken

Many food establishments claim to be ‘world’s best’ or ‘world famous,’  but have no doubt that Gus’s actually lives up to the claim.

I literally went straight off the plane to eat here and I stand firmly by my decision. I recommend going midday after the lunch rush if you can — lines can be quite long in peak times. Whether you have to wait for a table or not, you can rest assured what you are served will be worth it.

Grab fried chicken of course, and then choose your sides accordingly. I ate at Gus’s several times, and my favorite sides include the mac ‘n’ cheese, fried okra, and coleslaw. Save room for pie if you dare! (Extra points if you also eat the chicken with a Gibson’s donut!)

Central BBQ

With each location famous for different aspects of BBQ, I knew going in that Memphis was best-known for its dry rub and its ribs. Begin there at this famous spot, which again lives up to all the hype you’ve heard beforehand.

For me the way to go is to order ribs and perhaps one other meat of your choice. Order them dry and then you can get all of the different sauces on the side to see what suits your fancy without having to make a sauce commitment (you’re welcome.) Try the pulled pork nachos if you want to be blown away.

As for lines, they seem to move pretty quickly — so don’t get discouraged if you see one wrapped around the block.

If you’re on a tour-de-BBQ, also check out Cozy Corner and Charles Vergo’s Rendezvous.

The Flying Fish

If, like me, you equate good Southern food with down home vibes and perhaps, say, fried catfish and hushpuppies, this is your spot.

Immediately you’ll feel transported stepping in their doors. And while they’ve got a huge menu full of seafood-focused options, you better believe they also serve all-you-can-eat catfish every Wednesday for $12.99. SO. GOOD.

Blue Plate Cafe

An awesome spot for breakfast. It’s everything I ask for with my first meal of the day — friendly service, free-flowing coffee, excellent pancakes, crisp bacon, and some of the best biscuits and gravy of your life. Enjoy.

Loflin Yard + Railgarten

Once you’re done touring the classics, you’ll definitely want to head to these two places. Both have open air spaces that feel a bit like someone’s backyard, with plenty of entertainment, food, and drink to go around.

At Loflin Yard, I loved the charred salad (get your veggies on!,) the wings, and the brisket tacos. They do a mean pimento cheese dip as well if that’s your thing!

Railgarten offers up local beers, duck fat fries, cheese curds, and will you believe it…one of the best veggie burgers I’ve tasted. Take some time to relax and enjoy their fun outdoor space!

The Gray Canary

I didn’t get the chance to eat here, but I heard from several locals about how excited they were to have this new spot from renowned chefs for some Memphis fine dining. I had a look at the space when I was in the nearby Old Dominick’s Distillery and from the raw bar to the grill, I was excited about every menu item so you should probably know about it.

Things to Do in Memphis

National Civil Rights Museum

For me this was the single most important stop of my visit to Memphis. Located in what was once the motel Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in, it now showcases the history and culture of the American Civil Rights Movement. Its moving exhibits and displays are very interactive and the stories told within its walls continue to be of utmost importance today. Allow for a few hours at a minimum to take it all in.

Graceland

Whether or not you’re a fan of The King, his mansion and his story set largely in Memphis are a huge part of American popular culture and music around the world. Graceland has a bit of a theme park-esque vibe (be prepared to have your picture taken and to board shuttles,) but there’s no arguing that it’s a quintessential even fascinating experience to learn about his life and legacy and see his former home (a bit of a time capsule!)

Sun Studio

The site of Elvis Presley’s first ever record recorded (at age 18,) the walls of this small music studio have since seen the likes of Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, and more. They’ve got a small set of exhibits and a guided tour that immerses visitors in music history.

Beale Street

Day or night this is one of the most happening streets in all of America — with live music, blues bars lights, and likely, some debauchery. Security is tight in the evenings, but it’s worth braving the crowds or lines to get a taste of the truly iconic musical street that is at the heart of Memphis’s past and present.

Other:

Get out on the Mississippi River: Try Memphis Riverboats or, take a kayaking tour.

Drink on a rooftop: One of my very favorite experiences in Memphis was touring then new Old Dominick’s Distillery. They have a beautiful rooftop, amazing cocktails, and often feature live music. Plus, it’s across the street from Gus’s!
I also had the chance to try out the seasonal rooftop party at The Peabody. Fun live music as well, plus those city views (at sunset!) The Peabody hosts parties on their rooftop every Thursday night from approximately April to August.

This visit I had my fair share of pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes, and mac ‘n’ cheese as well — don’t you worry!

Memphis Hotels

Ever since I first thought of visiting Memphis I had The Peabody on my mind. The iconic hotel is as grand as any in the South, but is perhaps best known for its famous ducks that live on the roof, march to the lobby, and play in the fountains. The ducks are well cared for, and more adorable than I thought they’d be — but it’s the charm of the story and the tradition that goes along with them that endeared them to me.

The Peabody is located at the heart of downtown Memphis, meaning you can walk to the majority of the places listed above with relative ease. Check out the lobby or grab a drink. Even if you aren’t sleeping here (though I recommend you do!) it’s more than worth stopping in to soak in the history and beauty of the hotel.

——

Quick Trip Tips

• Getting to downtown Memphis is a quick and easy Uber or Lyft ride. Plan for 15-20 minutes to get there.
• Ride the street cars! The Main Street Trolley has just been brought back and at $1 per ride, the fare is exceptionally reasonable.
• Even if you aren’t a guest at The Peabody, you’re welcome to stop in to see the Ducks March! It takes place at 11 am and 5 pm daily.
• Check out the I Love Memphis blog for current events, shows, and more goings-on.
• If you have the time or are so inclined, check out Cooper-Young neighborhood. It’s a hip area with lots going on.

Disclosure: I was teaching at Bloghouse during my time in Memphis. Thank you to Memphis Tourism, The Peabody Memphis, Mediavine, and Tennessee Tourism who hosted part of my stay.
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Explore the city’s top spots and find the most vibrant street art of Bristol, England with me now!

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A Guide to Bristol Street Art (And More)

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Of all the interests I’ve developed over the years, one I never expected to find myself enjoying so much is street art.

Most definitions make a distinction between street art and graffiti, though both are created in public spaces and often without permission. Among the differences: street art is constructive whereas graffiti is destructive, street art is about its audience whereas graffiti is about its artist. And while graffiti is often thought of as delinquent and defacing, street art is becoming prized, praised, and in some cases…sold in galleries.

I suppose what fascinates me most about street art is the manner in which it expresses the political and social issues of its environment. I’ve become more and more enthralled with street art living in San Francisco, but it all began with traveling.

So when I had the chance to visit Bristol, an English city known for its thriving street art scene (and one where the world’s most famous street artist got his start,) I set off on the quick train ride from London to see it for myself. I quickly learned that while Bristol isn’t as well-known to travelers, it’s beloved by Brits for its high-quality of life and has a ton of city pride. Aside from its rich local culture (they even have their own dialect and currency!) Bristol has grown to become the European capital of street art.

Start with a Bristol Walking Tour

The best introduction to Bristol’s street art is through Where the Wall Bristol walking tour. It’s a lively, educational, and thoroughly entertaining overview of the city’s past and present street art culture, created by people who actually know *gasp* Banksy and many of the other artists from the city. They also make a fantastic Bristol Street Art map you can purchase if you prefer to seek them out on your own.

When they called street art ‘a direct form of free expression in this world of decreasing artistic vocal platforms,’ I knew we were on the same page.

My tour began, fittingly, with a Banksy piece called “The Well-Hung Lover.” Now before you chuckle too much, have a look at the image, which was overwhelmingly voted by Bristolians to be preserved on its original wall:

Throughout the city you’ll find not only local artistic expression but also the commissioned works of some of the world’s most respected street artists.

Another favorite thing about street art is how public and accessible it makes art. It isn’t something just be viewed in a museum or put on a pedestal — it is a living, breathing form of expression and often a reflection of politics and culture.

My last point as to why street art is amazing (I swear:) it is impermanent. Though some works or spaces are untouched out of respect for the artist, many others consistently rotate and change. I love the idea that the artist creates knowing that his or her art may not last long; that’s not why they continue to create. It is materialized in a public space for the eyes of others, but there has to be detachment to the lasting nature of art painted on a shared surface.

From Harbourside and the trendy Wapping Wharf to the Old City and elegant Clifton Village, there’s so much to explore in Bristol. But if street art is the focus of your day or your visit, here are the areas you’ll find most of it concentrated in:

Where to Find Bristol Street Art

Stokes’ Croft and Gloucester Road

The Bohemian heart of Bristol that is almost like an outdoor gallery.

Nelson Street

Larger scale murals that create a visually fascinating downtown. Be sure to look up!

North Street

The area where Upfest, one of the largest street art festivals, is held — with some remnants of the work from it.

M Shed Museum

This worthwhile (free) museum tells the story of the city and has some preserved pieces (including Banksy’s Tesco Value Petrol Bomb and The Ferryman.) This was one of my favorite experiences in Bristol, and I almost overlooked it.

Banksy Bristol

You now know where to find his two most famous pieces — the Well-Hung Lover and Mild Mild West — above. Another worth seeking out is ‘The Girl with the Pierced Eardrum’ in Hanover Place. There are also other Banksys on outskirts of the city, as well as Bedminster where many new artists are emerging. The city is covered in street art, so you can always walk around and see what you can find yourself once you’ve got your bearings and context.

And I couldn’t leave you without some suggestions for where to eat and stay! Here’s where to fuel up in between all the walking you’ll be doing:

  

Bristol Restaurants I Loved:

• St Nicholas Market (many delicious food options in the heart of Old City)
• *The Canteen (an institution! Come for the food, drink, and live music)
• *Shop 3 Bistro (comfort fine dining; when I asked a local their favorite hidden spot this was the answer!)
• Pieminster (Savory pies)
• Pinkmans (Bakery)
• Thali Cafe (Indian, four locations in Bristol)
• Little Victories (Coffee)
• The Apple (Bristol’s floating bar)
• *Bristol Cider Shop (amazing cider selection and friendly company)
• The Milk Thistle (incredible cocktails at this Speakeasy)
• *The Clifton (my favorite pub!)

*all of these are fantastic, but my personal favorites have the little star next to them!

Best Bristol Accommodation:

(High-end) Hotel du Vin (boutique style + a focus on wine never hurts.)
(Mid-range) Brooks Guesthouse (Stay in an airstream on the roof like I did!)
(Backpacker) Full Moon Backpackers (room decorated by street artists!)

Bristol Sightseeing

• The SS Great Britain (Harbourside)
• Clifton Suspension Bridge (Clifton)
• Colorful houses and cozy cafes of Clifton (a very charming part of town.)
• Take one of the ferries across the harbour (if the weather is nice!)
• See the views from Cabot Tower

For more of the best things to do in Bristol, check out this post from local blog Bridges and Balloons.

No matter what part of the city you choose to explore, there’s no doubt you’ll get a taste of what makes the city so exciting. The culture and creativity feels like energy pulsing in the streets, yet you still get the calm of the surrounding countryside.

That said, what stands out to me most about Bristol is how much the people who live there seem to love it. Just as New York City is not what most of America is like, I really believe it’s important to venture outside of London to see more of the U.K. (Guilty as charged!)

You won’t see as many tourists here, but you will see the famous Bristol street art…and experience a bit more of British daily life and all that makes this country one of my very favorites. <3

Disclosure: My trip to Bristol was made possible by a partnership with Visit Britain and British Airways. All thoughts and opinions shared here are truly and strictly my own.

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The post Hey Street Art Fans, Here’s the One City You Need to See. appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.

(Because the way to the heart is the stomach, clearly.)

What it’s like to return to a place you once disdained, and discover that you quite like it after all.

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Or, How I Finally Fell in Love with Indianapolis (and a guide for where to eat in Indy so you will, too.)

Two years ago, heck, even two months ago…if you had told me I’d be landing on the tarmac for a work trip to Indianapolis, I’d have laughed in your face and told you you were insane.

It’s nothing against Indiana. Some of the loveliest people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting have their roots in the Midwestern state. It’s just that the job I used to have, the one before all this blogging business, took me there on a semi-regular basis. And when I left said corporate career, just over four years ago, I had zero desire to ever return to the place I most associated with that part of my life. Just like so much of turning away from that path, I was certain I was leaving it in the past.

So as I stared down at the plane ticket bound for IND, I could hardly believe life had taken me back there. Travel writing might just be the most opposite pursuit from pharmaceutical sales. How did pursuing a completely different career take me to the same exact place?

I called my mother. I told her anxiously, “I’m going to teach at Bloghouse again this year.”

“Why don’t you sound excited? That’s always a highlight of your year.”

“I know, but this year it’s in Indianapolis. You know how I feel about the time I spent there. I am uneasy about going back,” I explained.

“It won’t be the same,” she continued. “It may be the same place, but you’ve changed a lot in the five years since you were there. And I’ll bet the city has too.” I shrugged. I wasn’t convinced.

“It’s a challenge,” she claimed. “Time to make new memories there.”

I knew she was right.

So I began to think of how I’d approach my visit to Indy had I been excited to explore a new, fun city, not a place that used to weigh me down with stress, exams, and presentations. How could I see the city through the traveler’s eyes I’d worked so hard to maintain? I sat in contemplation before I asked — what was the way to my heart, despite any other mental blocks?

And then it hit me: food.

Turns out Indianapolis has gone through a bit of a culinary revolution. One of the best restaurants in America? Right there in Indy. Top food city in America? Apparently that is Indy now, too. Conde Nast Traveler went as far as naming it the “most underrated food city in America.”

At the heart of both Indy (well, actually the entire Midwest for me) and of Bloghouse has always been good people. And those can feel hard to find. But as for what would make me fly across the country to spend 48 hours there?

Ladies and gentlemen, the food.

(Disclaimer and note: None of these places were even open the last time I was in Indy! GO INDY.)

Without further adieu, may I present, falling in love with Indy in six simple steps. Here’s where to eat in Indianapolis, now:

downtown indy

Open Society

Why you’ll fall for it: Coffee shop by day, trendy restaurant by night. The only thing more beautiful than its design is its food.
What to order: Any of their salads, duck sliders! Portuguese wine, if your forte.

Napolese

Why you’ll fall for it: In all honesty, the dishes, ingredients, and preparation at Napolese is on a level I didn’t know existed in Indiana. They’re doing great things here.
What to order: Each salad I had was better than the last (which is to say, they’re all good,) and it’s hard to go wrong with wood-fired pizza but my highlights were Elliot’s Pie (pancetta, roasted new potatoes, gorgonzola) and the BLT (Smoking Goose jowl bacon, leeks, Taleggio.)

brunch spread at milktooth – indy’s most buzzed about restaurant

Cafe Patachou

Why you’ll fall for it: A locally loved spot with a comfortable yet upscale feel. On top of their brunch game.
What to order: Any of their “broken yolk” dishes. Don’t miss the cinnamon toast (trust me.)

Milktooth

Why you’ll fall for it: Hyped for a reason, and still lives up to high expectations. You can feel the passion from the chef oozing from the walls of this place. It’s incredible the artistry that is coming out of this cool space and its food.
What to order: Skip the bacon at your own peril. Their coffee drinks are spectacular, but I really fell in love with their matcha beverage. Dutch babies (savory and sweet) are famous – one bite and you’ll see why.

“bacon” at milktooth – obsessed.

Hotel Tango

Why you’ll fall for it: Gorgeous space, a place with heart, Indy’s artisanal distillery. Not to be missed if you’re a cocktail person. Across the street from Bluebeard so a great spot to stop in before dinner there. Also, they have the best bar cat ever (and I’m not even a cat person.)
What to order: They make their own spirits, so choose your favorite and decide if you want to stay with a house classic or roll the dice with one of their seasonal specials.

bluebeard – not just for the kurt vonnegut obsessed. one of the best meals i’ve had in ages.

Bluebeard

Why you’ll fall for it: Honestly, one of the best meals I’ve had in recent months. For me, even topped the illustrious Milktooth.
What to order: Their bread (homemade) and spreads are TO DIE FOR. Truth be told, everything from the menu was divine, and it changes daily, but I still can’t get the grilled octopus or foie gras plates out of my mind. And if there is any sort of peach soup on the menu when you go, don’t miss it.
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My visit to Indianapolis for Bloghouse was made possible with the support of Visit Indy, JW Marriott, and Visit Indiana though this post is in no way sponsored by these partners.

Shoutout to two classics and blasts from my past…

St. Elmo
(A historic steakhouse and true classic. Get the shrimp cocktail at the very, very least.)

Slippery Noodle Inn
(A fun, local jazz + blues bar with live music every night and that lovable dive bar feel.)
And you’ll also want to explore the very happening Mass Ave, as seen below:

Perhaps you won’t arrive with have the same preconceived notions about Indianapolis as I did. Perhaps you have different ones, or none at all. Suffice it to say that every trip, every place, every journey…has something to offer, lessons to be learned. I didn’t expect to love Indy this time around. But then the best things in life often happen outside of our expectations.
Indianapolis has and is undergoing some major changes, in as little as the past five years. Before I could stop and rebuff that, or interject with doubts, I realized…the same had been true for me.

You may not be able to change a person. But you can change a place. You can fall in love with a place with every bite, against the odds and with any bitter taste left from your last visit. And, the best news of all…you can grow past your past. You can change yourself.

Where to Stay

I loved my stay at the JW Marriott. Rooms are reasonable and the beds were incredibly comfortable.
For something more budget, check out some recommended cheap hotels in Indianapolis.
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The post Full Circle in the Circle City: An Indianapolis Guide appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.