An itinerary fit for two days…or two months (mon dieu.)

My wish and hope for you is that you have more than a weekend in Paris. Alors, a visitor’s mindset is that it’s always ‘le weekend’…plus, few days in Paris is better than no time in Paris at all!

Most years, I spend most of October in France. And most of that time is spent in Paris.

(By the way, October is the best month to be in Paris – if you ask me.)

There is something magical about any time spent in the French capital, particularly if you’re a visitor to the city. Even if you have just a weekend in Paris, you can take a ‘flaneur’ or ‘flaneuse’ approach, which just means one who wanders for pleasure and without aim.

If your ideal Paris weekend includes a desire to hit the major museums and monuments, or if you haven’t visited before, you may wish to spend your time differently and take a meandering approach on a return visit. This relaxed, curious method of exploring the city can be frustrating for someone who has limited time or is visiting for the first time — I get that.

If you had only a weekend to spend in Paris, would you run around checking off boxes, seeing as many sights as possible, and queueing to see a famous piece of art? Or would you stroll along the Seine, linger over a book in a cafe, and picnic in a park?

I will guide you not by ‘what to do on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.’ I will instead give you the framework resulting from my many favorite days and weeks in the city. And if you have visited before, I believe this ‘Weekend in Paris’ way of experiencing the city will open up its beauty to you in a whole new way.

Let the mindset of the purposeful wandering of the flâneur be your guide.

Pick an arrondissement and make it your base for the whole time you’re there.

It’s most convenient to choose your accommodation in this neighborhood as well, but you don’t have to.

A few favorites:

Choose a pâtisserie you can go back to each morning of your trip.

Of course the one you choose would ideally be near your accommodation so that you can get to know the people there and greet them every morning or so, almost as if you lived there.

A few suggestions:

I also love visiting Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in Paris (located in the Marais))

Get a place with a balcony.

Not a 100% necessary move, but one that is certainly enjoyable. I like drinking my local coffee and/or wine on a balcony that’s private to me, as well as enjoying the big windows and absorbing Paris in motion from above. (Recommended apartments listed at end of post!)

Bring your own picnic to a park.

Some recommended parks for picnics:

Suggested picnic goods:

Rent bikes using the Velib system.

Or, take a stroll on the Seine

Be a flâneur/flâneuse.

One of the greatest pleasures of Paris is simply wandering the streets with no plan. Put on your best walking shoes, soak in the beauty, and give it a try — you never know what you might find.

Not sure where to start? I love strolling from Saint-Germain-des-Prés past the Notre Dame cathedral, some of the most beautiful bridges across the Seine, and the Île Saint Louis, perhaps stopping for ice cream at Berthillon or in to see the impressive stained glass at Saint Chapelle. Nearby you’ll find one of my favorite tucked-away squares, Place Dauphine. This is one of my favorite self-led walking tours in all the city and the recipe for the perfect Paris day. Enjoy <3

Discover French wine at a local wine bar.

Wander into a wine bar at happy hour or later in the evening. Discover regions of wine (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, etc.) and enjoy the free-flowing inexpensive wines. Particularly good on a Paris weekend. I love:

Dine at a classic bistro.

Lingering over classic French food at a long-standing Parisian bistro is always a good idea. A few I recommend:

Sit en terrasse for a few hours.

Like the seated version of being a flaneur, one of the very best ways to experience Paris is to watch the world pass by from a cafe. You can’t go too far without running into one, but here are some cafe etiquette tips, along with a few favorite cafes:

Try out a newer restaurant.

Modern Paris has a variety of cultures and cuisines to sample. Check out Septime, Semilla, Verjus, Papillion, and Frenchie (to name a few) for some fantastic food that’s more modern than classic. There are also some incredible restaurants with non-French cuisine if you’re looking for more options. Pick up the book The New Paris before your trip for more.

A few more (local) dining resources:

Enjoy some of the excellent lesser-known museums.

If you’ve seen them before, I highly recommend skipping the fight with the crowds at The Louvre and D’Orsay. Many of the smaller museums of Paris are sadly overlooked by even frequent visitors. The three I’d head to first are:

Go in search of France’s regional cuisines.

There is a lot to love about Parisian food, and don’t think just in terms of French food! However, here are a few to taste from other regions of France while you’re in the city.

Explore the French pharmacy – especially if you’re interested in skincare.

And, Choose Your Own Adventure

Make a pilgrimage to Shakespeare and Company, Paris’s most famous English bookstore. It’s a friendly and important home to a lot of the city’s past and present literary scene.

See the Eiffel Tower up close. If you’ve already stood under it/beside it, check out a new angle or sit at a cafe that has a view of it. (I once tried to skip the Eiffel Tower on a visit, insisting I didn’t need to visit it, but I caved and went to see it and lo and behold, it still charms.) Another good, somewhat hidden spot to view it is the rooftop terrace of the Galeries Lafayettes — simply go to the 7th floor of the department store for a (free) panoramic view of Paris.

Versailles is truly a sight to behold, and it’s a quick train ride from Paris. If you’re really interested in going, it’s very worth it. However, there is so much to do/see in Paris I usually recommend staying in the city if you only have limited time. It remains one of the best day trips from Paris.

What to pack for a weekend in Paris:

How to Make French Friends (or at the least, have the best chance of starting off on a good foot wherever you go:)

Say ‘bonjour’ or ‘bonsoir’ and ‘merci, au revoir’ as you enter and exit any storefront or restaurant.  Even if you don’t speak any other French, it’s an important part of French culture to say these things upon entry/exit and will you put you miles ahead of others for service and general friendliness when in Paris.

Also, it may sound funny but smiling is generally frowned upon (ha.) You’ll find that French people may not be as warm and friendly as you’re used to in other places, especially if you’re coming from the States. Remember, this does not mean they’re not lovely people — and you might find that out with a little bit of spoken French and/or working to fit into French culture while you’re there.

Where to Stay in Paris

Bon voyage <3

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Whitefish, MT draws many visitors to its popular ski resort and for its proximity to the stunning Glacier National Park, and rightfully so. It is also a destination in its own right — a welcoming and wonderful small town with bold landscapes right at its doorstep.

For years I’ve felt drawn to Montana. The town of Whitefish is surprisingly well-known given its size; I think that has something to do with its feel both as a chic resort village and hidden mountain escape. With its community feel, fresh mountain air, and a gem of a culinary scene, Whitefish was a great home base for my first stay in the state.

Whether you’re staying there to visit the park or simply to enjoy the town and surrounds itself, there is lots to love about this beautiful part of America. Here is an overview of the top things to do in Whitefish:

Get Outside: Hiking, Biking, and More In Whitefish

Whitefish Trail

With 10+ trailheads and 42 miles of natural surface to walk, bike, or hike on right next to town, there are plenty of scenic views and forested paths to keep any nature-lover happy. Some of the most popular hikes include Lion Mountain and Swift Creek. Whitefish Trail is runner, dog, horse, and kid-friendly.

You find all the trailheads and a trail map here.

Whitefish Bike Retreat

Located just outside town, the Whitefish Bike Retreat is a lodge, hub, and training center created especially for bikers. As someone who had never been on a mountain bike before, I headed out here to learn some new skills and try out some of the nearby trails.

Whether you’re going for the day, camping overnight, or staying at the lodge — or even just popping in for a coffee or a beer during your ride — you’ll find some of the friendliest faces (including cute dogs!) to welcome you. They’re uniquely equipped to help with any and all biking needs, so it’s a good spot to know of if you plan on doing any mountain biking while in town. I highly recommend this spot!

Whitefish Lake

The glacial lake bearing the same name as the town is a favorite spot for visitors and locals alike. In the summer you can lounge in the sun or in shaded areas along the water, or, if you prefer to be active, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and take to the lake. There is also a public boat launch and designated areas for swimming.

Viking Creek Trail

An interpretive trail that’s great for families, you can expect educational signage and a newly groomed trail that feels safe and easy to walk on but fully immersed in the wetlands nature. Look out for the bear claw marks on some of the trees! With accessibility for all visitors, this is one of the best mellow outdoor things to do in Whitefish. It’s also free to access.

Winter Activities vs. Summer Activities

There’s also skiing of course, in the wintertime. Whitefish Mountain Resort is the biggest draw. In the summer you can also seek out mountain biking, hiking, and zip-lining here.

Golfing, rock climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and even skydiving are all ways to get out into the Great Outdoors in and around Whitefish, depending on the weather and your personal thirst for and/or comfort level with adventure.

Side note: if it’s raining, or you don’t want to be outside, check out the Whitefish Theatre Company. They put on excellent productions!

Visit Glacier National Park (A Must)

Going-to-the-Sun Road

The famous Going-to-the-Sun Road is a fantastic way to easily see many of the highlights of the park. Parts of the path are open year-round, but you will want to plan and time your visit based on who the road is open to. At times it’s open to just bikers (as it was during my visit,) and not to motorized vehicles. This is largely dependent on the weather conditions, so be sure to check their website for updates ahead of your trip. Here’s a general overview of the seasonal access in the park:

Open Year-Round: The road from West Glacier to Lake McDonald Lodge

Open to Bikes and Pedestrians Only: Shoulder season (usually May/October)

Open to Cars: Summer (June-Aug/Sept.)

You can rent a car and drive on the road during the summer months. If you’re hiking or biking, you can grab the Whitefish Shuttle from town. They go both to Glacier National Park and to the Whitefish Trailheads mentioned above.

I recommend taking advantage of the small period when the Going-to-the-Sun Road is open to bikes and pedestrians only. Although you’ll have to power your own transportation, you can see more of the park in the same amount of time. While it’s possible you may encounter less-than-favorable weather, you’ll avoid most of the crowds. (Highly recommended.)

You can check out current information, as well as the dates of past openings and closings, on the official Glacier National Park Going-to-the-Sun information page.

And if you’re looking for a guide specific to Glacier National Park (as well as Banff and Jasper) I recommend this one.

Taste the Local Brews and Spirits

Big Sky Brews Cruise

I was able to visit two fantastic local beer spots — Great Northern Brewery and Bonsai Brewing Project — with the help of this great tour (and no need to worry about drinking and driving!)

Spotted Bear Spirits

I loved the cocktails I tasted from this local spirits producer. You can visit their distillery, which uses local and organic botanicals, and try their seasonal cocktail menu, which reflects the changing seasons of Glacier County.

Partake in Some Whitefish Wellness

Yoga at Yoga Hive

I loved the class I took with Yoga Hive Montana, which has locations in downtown Whitefish and nearby Kalispell. Even better are their yoga classes at Whitefish Lodge (if offered.) You can do yoga with a view of the lake and a mimosa afterward!

Himalayan salt treatments at SaltBox

I live for my Himalayan salt lamp at home, so it was a treat to experience the new SaltBox in downtown Whitefish. You can relax in their salt rooms, in which microparticles of salt enable dry salt therapy that can help with breathing, skin, sleep, and overall wellness. They also have an infrared sauna (perfect for cold days or after long hikes.)

Dine Out, Montana Style

The Best Whitefish Restaurants

I’ve got an upcoming post with more details about where to eat in Whitefish.

For now, restaurant highlights include:

• Abruzzo – Italian
• Swift Creek Cafe – American Brunch/Lunch
• Latitude 48 – American/Fusion
• Pescado Blanco – “Mountain Mexican”
• Piggy Back BBQ – great for casual!

How to Get to Whitefish, MT

Whitefish, MT’s closest airport is Glacier Park International, which is a short 15-minute drive to downtown. Several direct flights are available (although some are seasonal,) ranging from Seattle and Denver to Los Angeles and Atlanta. For my Bay Area folks, there is seasonal direct service from OAK on Allegiant, but the trip from SFO with a quick stop in Denver is fine, too. The aforementioned Whitefish Shuttle does airport drop-offs/pick-ups to get you into town. If you fancy taking the train, Amtrak has a station right in the heart of Whitefish. Or, I hear the drive into town (from nearby states) is spectacular!

Where to Stay in Whitefish

The well-established Lodge at Whitefish Lake is popular and so lovely, but so are many of the smaller B&Bs and apartments in town. Here are the best of them:

• Snow Bear Chalets
  3872 Winter Lane
  (P.S.If you stay here or host an event, The Chef Guys are amazing local private chefs for hire.)
• Whitefish Downtown Suites (where I stayed – more like an apt; loved it!)
  115 Central Ave
• Garden Wall Inn
  504 Spokane Ave
• Good Medicine Lodge
  537 Wisconsin Ave
• Hidden Moose Lodge
  1735 E Lakeshore Drive
• Duck Inn
  1305 Columbia Ave

Whether you’re planning a trip and looking for things to do in Whitefish MT or you’re now thinking about going…I hope this sets you up to experience the best of the area! Let me know if I can help with any further questions before or during your trip.

*My trip was made possible with the help of Explore Whitefish, but all opinions and recommendations are completely my own.

Cheers!

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I’m not the first traveler to yearn for Provence. Its many French villages and hill towns are the best places to visit in the South of France. Not to mention its stone castles, hillside olive groves, sidewalk cafes, and lavender fields, all of which are the places travel dreams are made of.

Southern France’s cities are also lively and lovely; I particularly love the areas around Marseille and Nice. Yet it’s the small towns in France that really give you that Provencal glow, the feeling of soft, golden light carried by a faint breeze. It’s the kind that makes you want to skip through fields, or linger on a terrace amongst the streets with the wafting air of fresh pastries.

If you’re planning a trip, I hope you’ll make Provence and its villages part of your stay. Here are the best places to visit in the South of France, designed for a week (or so) depending on how much exploring versus relaxing you want to do.

Provence’s Best French Towns, Hills, and Villages

I recommend choosing a base depending on where you want to focus your time. All of the small French towns in this region are within a day’s driving distance, but I personally recommend minimizing your driving time (although the drives are quite scenic!) Most recently I focused on the Luberon, and it was my favorite part of Provence to date.

For a home base, I’d choose from Avignon (my personal favorite,) Aix-en-Provence (a little larger French town further south,) or Cassis, if you want to be on the coast. All three towns have that French charm and relaxed Provence feel and are well-located for visiting the rest of the area.

You could also stay in the smaller villages listed below, but I personally like to stay centrally in a bigger area and visit these villages by day.

Avignon

Set on the banks of the Rhône River and endlessly charming, Avignon is a wonderful medieval city that still feels like a small village. There are many great places to dine and sip, streets to wander, and sights to see.

Avignon is a great place to stay, and it’s well-connected by train (especially if you’re coming from Paris.) I recommend exploring the city center and its open squares, markets, and cafes. Be sure to check out the lively Rue des Teinturiers for some of the most beautiful architecture and best restaurants.

A little-known fact: Avignon was once the seat of the Catholic Pope (in the 14th century,) before returning its hub to the Vatican. You can visit the Palais des Papes in the city center to learn more.

From Avignon, you can easily visit the neighboring towns below. Each has a distinct beauty and landscape, so they all are worth seeing if you have the time!

Gordes

Gordes might just be the prettiest hilltop village in France.

I loved driving here to explore the cobblestone streets for the day and have lunch. I also recommend having a glass of rosé or a cocktail on the terrace of La Bastide de Gordes, which has one of the best views in town.

Don’t miss the beautiful Senenque Abbey, well-photographed for its surrounding lavender fields.

Roussillon

Roussillon is another hilltop village with a distinct feature — its coloring. Built on and around large ochre deposits, the town’s buildings have a red-orange tint from all the clay.

Aside from checking out the village, you can walk the nature trails amongst the ochre cliffs.

L’Isle sur la Sorgue

A quick stop on your way back to Avignon, L’Isle sur la Sorgue is best known for its antique shops and markets. The ‘island’ town got its name from the canals running through it.

The largest of the antique markets takes place on Sunday morning – prepare to arrive early if you are driving and will need parking.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

A little farther south from Avignon is this wonderful Provencal town. I thoroughly enjoyed dining (and even doing a little shopping) here. There is a truly delightful chocolate shop called Joël Durand that is a must.

Les-Baux-des-Provence

Similar to Gordes, this tiny village on top of a bed of rock is frequently noted as one of France’s most beautiful towns. There are only 22 residents atop the rock, but there are winding cobblestone streets and panoramic views for the visitor.

Arles

I stayed in Arles on one of my first visits to Provence and enjoyed the market, Roman amphitheater, and galleries. If you recognize Arles, it may be because Van Gogh lived here and painted some of his most iconic works of the town.

French Towns: Coast and Nature Focus

Aix-en-Provence

Aix is known for its 1,000 fountains, its wide boulevards and Cours Mirabeau, and sidewalk cafes. It has captured the hearts of artists, writers, and intellectuals who have flocked to the town for centuries.

Cassis

A seaside town on the Mediterranean coast, Cassis is just as romantic as it sounds. It’s a great village to see not far from Marseille. Try some fresh seafood at one of the cafes.

Massif de Calanques

Many visitors to Provence seem to miss these coastal coves and inlets, but they are part of one of the country’s most beautiful national parks. You can opt either to hike or boat alongside the cliffs, stopping to rest at a beach or climbing a hill for some heartstopping ocean views. You can also walk the path from Cassis to the Calanque d’En-Vau, one of the most picturesque.

For more of the best South of France destinations, check out:

• For wine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
• For lavender fields (seasonal,) Valensole
• For nature, Gorges du Verdon
• For more of the Côte d’Azur, Villefranche-sur-mer and Eze (both just outside of Nice.) The seaside cities of Antibes, Monaco, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez are all options as well.

And for more: Provence reading.

Bon voyage mes amis!

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(And why where you stay in Sicily for your holiday makes a difference.)

When it comes to travel, I always believe we should follow the inklings that draw us to a place. And for years I felt the pull to Sicily.

So I did what I always do next…I asked around about where I should stay. Yet the more I asked my fellow travelers if they had been to the island, the more I realized very few people seem to make it to Sicily. The area is not nearly as popular as the main cities and sights in the rest of Italy. (Of course, this turned out to be one of the main reasons I loved it so much.)

Those who had gone commented that it wasn’t the most solo travel-friendly spot, if for no other reason than it’s best traversed in a car and the journey is an adventure best made with a co-pilot. So, armed with a cheap flight to Rome and said travel partner in tow, I finally made it to Sicily this year.

After deciding to go, the next call I had to make was where to call my home base for the majority of the trip. I envisioned staying on the beach or the cliffs overlooking the ocean — and while I did that too (Cefalu!) the most memorable part of my time in Sicily was to be found elsewhere.

Staying in the Val di Noto, Sicily

Many travelers who have felt the siren call (or simply, the persistent urging of their friends who have been,) take to the major cities and beaches of Sicily. The area of Sicily that stuck with me most, however, doesn’t have either of those things.

The Val di Noto, located on the southeast part of the island, was mostly destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century. What was rebuilt still stands today as one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in the world.

What does this mean for the visitor today? Wide boulevards, hillside towns, church facades, and narrow alleys — often in stone and primarily built into their natural surroundings. Exploring the towns of the Val di Noto feels a bit like wandering in a maze — if that maze happened to be lined with delightful trattorias, wine bars, and pastry shops.

I chose to base myself in Modica, which is best known for its artisan chocolate made from a recipe that dates back to the Aztecs. Much as I was curious to try the chocolate (it is quite spectacular) I was most excited to call the Residenza Hortus home for a few days.

What: Residenza Hortus, an artist-renovated three-bedroom historic home

Where: Right off the Piazza di San Giorgio in the heart of Modica, Sicily

When: Year-round, though summers bring more people to the area

Who: 2-6 people

How Much: from €210 to €500 per night

A friend had directed me to the collection of artist homes called Anime a Sud or ‘soul of the south.’ Designed by Italian artist Luca Giannini, I loved both his passion for the project and the intention and meaning behind each choice in the home.

The first thing I noticed upon entering the space each day was how light and airy the entire home is. Each of the bedrooms represents a different element, so you’ve got a ‘fire’ room with a fireplace built into the wall, an ‘air’ room that opens out onto the terrace, and a ‘water’ room with an elegant bathtub for a headboard (a hotel first as far as I know.) Each has custom-carved tile and design touches that subtly convey the theme. All of this lends itself to an ambiance of peace and natural flow in the house.

Off of the open kitchen is a beautiful recovered iron staircase, which leads down to a stone wine cellar filled with Sicilian wines. Most of the house is made of stone, so you get a sense of grounding and quiet as you relax in each of the rooms. Every detail honors the story of the origins of the property and the story of the local area, each exquisite material chosen deliberately.

As I learned more about the Residenza Hortus’s reconstruction, it made even more sense why I felt so connected to this special place:

The architectural project first focused on the ‘soul of the place,’ in order to catch the basic field lines and the specific energetic condensations and emotions which had stratified in that place across the time, and that had slowly turned into a sort of thin grid made of balances and harmonies which necessarily needed to be respected during the restoration works.”

Luca Giannini, artist and founder

Perhaps the best part of the home is the large terrace, which sits surrounded by Sicilian orange and pomegranate trees and beneath the tops of the San Giorgio church. There’s a small heated pool that’s great for winding down after a day of exploring. The terrace is a calm oasis that feels both modern and centuries old, and entirely private and yet engaged with the heritage of Modica. Its garden, of course, represents the earth element in the home.

The excellent and kind local staff is on hand not only to introduce you to the area and give tips, but also to arrange activities and private meals on the terrace, which we had the pleasure of experiencing one slow morning. There truly is a balance of feeling like you’re in a personal home — but with the amenities of a boutique hotel.

From Modica, it’s easy to explore the neighboring Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa, Siracusa, Caltagirone, and Scicli. (I recommend them all!) Each feels unique in its own way, and each has excellent food and unforgettable views. All make great day trips from the Residenza Hortus (unless, like me, you are tempted just to stay in and nearby the house.) I was grateful to learn more about the region and its food in the Sicily chapter of this incredible book about Italy’s culinary culture.

There is a lot to see even walking distance up and down the hill from Hortus (don’t miss the chocolate, really!) You can also explore the Southeastern beaches or Catania and Mount Etna if you haven’t already. All of the towns (including Catania) comprise the UNESCO World Heritage status given to the Val di Noto, so it feels cohesive to set out to explore them all.

Anime a Sud also renovated a smaller apartment in Modica called Casa Kimya, plus a perfectly located space in Siracusa. Like Residenza Hortus, both tell a story that makes you feel like uniquely immersed in Southern Sicily. I can’t wait to go back to experience them all.

Residenza Hortus was one of the most personally restorative and deeply thoughtful places I’ve had the pleasure of staying in. It’s a comfortable and stylish home, yes — but it’s also a living, breathing work of art that is more than a place to rest your head at night. The entire space speaks to you of this incredible region’s past, present, and hopefully, future.

My stay at Residenza Hortus was kindly hosted by the owner. However, all opinions (and photographs) are strictly my own.

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With all there is to see to this world, I still find myself drawn back to European capital cities over and over again.

In fact, I consider it a high point in my travel life whenever I’m able to visit my top four (all European capitals in the same year Rome >> Barcelona >> Paris >> London; it’s only happened twice, but it just happened over the past year!)

Not long ago it was a huge deal — both the time and money investment — to book a ticket to Europe from elsewhere. As it becomes cheaper and cheaper to fly across the pond (I flew to Rome from SFO last month for under $300 whaaat,) I began reflecting on my favorite European capitals to visit. I’ve listed them below — with the top five being classics many of us know and love, and the latter five being smaller capitals that have really captured my heart as well.

My Favorite European Capital Cities

Paris

Ah, Paris. What can I possibly write that would do the City of Light justice?

Paris makes me feel like a different person, in the best possible way. This grand city teaches so many of us how to linger longingly over meals, how to appreciate art whether on a street corner or on a museum wall, how to love being alone.

More has been written on the many appeals of Paris than perhaps any other city in the world. There’s a reason for that…don’t miss it.

Reasons to Go:

• Every bit of Paris holds some beauty. It’s a place to take extra pleasure in the simple things, like biking through the streets, picnicking on the Seine, or relaxing in a park.
• French culture and language is one of the most immersive in the world. I learn a lot from attempting to understand how they think or feel differently about things than the culture I grew up with, which is a large part of why I love being in Paris so much.
• The bistros, restaurants, cafes, and patisseries. The wine, the bread, the cheese…did I mention the wine?

Top Paris Experiences:

• See the Eiffel Tower (and climb it, if you so choose.) The Arc de Triomphe, Sacre Coeur, and our beloved (and recently harmed) Notre Dame are other iconic landmarks you don’t want to miss.
• Visit two of the world’s best museums: The Louvre and Musée d’Orsay. I happen to also love these lesser known museums — check out the Musée de l’Orangerie, Musée Jacquemart-André, and the Musée Rodin as well.
• Lose yourself in the city streets, absorbing the architecture, neighborhoods, and French way of life as you go. I recommend a park like the Luxembourg Gardens, Tuileries Gardens, Place des Vosges, or the lesser-known Parc Monceau.

Stay: Cobblestone Paris, or Hotel Verneuil (recently remodeled and in my very favorite part of Paris.)

Read more: why you should rent an apartment when staying in Paris. And if you’re interested in the best skincare on the planet, what to buy at the French pharmacy.

London

A truly global city that is delightfully full of British history and charm, London is both modern and classic at once. The sheer range of experiences — you can go from afternoon tea at the Ritz to curry and street art in East London and back — make this one of the world’s most exciting cities to be in, period.

If I had to choose just one city on Earth to live in (besides my current one,) it would be London. The variety of people, lifestyles, events, (and most definitely the British humor,) continues to pull me in time after time.

Reasons to Go:

• The art, theater, architecture, pub culture, and yes, food — are enough to keep you busy even without hitting the major sights. Might I recommend spending some time making friends in pub?
• Most all of the major museums in London are free to enter (and a pure Godsend when I was a student living in Europe, I tell you.)
• Don’t even get me started on how fantastic the Tube is. It’s easy to navigate the massive sprawl that is all of London’s various neighborhoods on the orderly and timely Underground.

Top London Experiences

• See the English capital’s iconic landmarks with your own two eyes, including Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London (my favorite,) and Tower Bridge. If you’re short on time or feel overwhelmed at thought of trying to see it all/navigate public transport, the Big Bus Tour is nice for first-time visitors wanting to hit the sights.
• Dive into English and global history and culture at one of the main museums. The British Museum, Tate Britain, Tate Modern, and the National Gallery will have you off to a great start.
• Explore some of London’s best neighborhoods (and their pubs.) I suggest starting with Notting Hill, Shoreditch, Chelsea, Mayfair, or Camden. You can sprinkle in some market visits to enrich your exploration — Borough Market, Old Spitalfields, and Broadway Market are a few that will leave lasting impressions.

Stay: The Hoxton

Read more:London itinerary, where to eat in London, and where to stay in London, and going beyond London.

Rome

Oh, the Eternal City. It only took six visits for me to fall in love.

Like many travelers, Rome was right at the top of the places I most wanted to see when I first began discovering Europe. I pictured standing in awe in front of ancient monuments, seeing cute Vespas parked against colored walls, and drinking espresso leisurely on terraces.

Rome is all of these favorite things I hoped for — and more. Still, the crowds and selfie snappers (and if summer, heat) can bring the enjoyment level down for many. I recommend waking up early and/or investing in skip-the-line tickets for major sights. Remove the modern day tourist headaches and you’ll skip right to the many fascinating layers of Rome that make it, well, eternal; and one of the most special places on the planet.

Reasons to Go:

• To have the chance to walk alongside some of the world’s most ancient ruins and the backdrop of modern Rome. There may be no other city in the world with as many layers of history and meaning as Rome.
• To eat the food. Pasta, pizza, espresso, gelato…
• To discover Rome’s hidden treasures. From courtyards and fountains to painted churches and narrow alleys, Rome is a city with secrets that are a delight to wander and find.

Top Rome Experiences:

• See the ruins: visit the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon, and Trevi Fountain at a minimum. (Go at sunrise or opening time for beautiful light and to avoid crowds!)
• Relax in a piazza: Choose one or a few and sit and sip from a cafe or with a book on a bench and watch Rome go by. Try Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, or Campo de’ Fiori (the only piazza where a market, not a church, is the focus.)
• Tour the Vatican: from the outstanding Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel to the massive St. Peter’s Basilica, visiting the Vatican is a must for every traveler to Rome.

Stay: Tree Charme (Trastevere)

Read more: How to Fall in Rome or check out the blog of my good friend Natalie, a Rome resident and author of An American in Rome.

Also see: Rome in Black and White and watch for forthcoming posts from my most recent visit.

Barcelona

I’ll admit I have a soft spot for Barcelona. I lived with a family there as a student abroad, and had some of the most formative and memorable months of my life in the city.

Admittedly, it’s not the capital of Spain — but it is the capital of Catalonia, and my preference as the top city to visit in Spain (I do like Madrid, too!) Even though the city is undergoing some major changes at the hand of its popularity and still rising tourism, Barcelona is compelling and lovely and artful in a way that few other cities in the world are.

Reasons to Go:

• Barcelona has it all — beach, city, mountains. It has relaxation and nightlife, food and drink. I think the unbeatable combination of atmospheres it offers is one of the reasons it has grown so much in popularity.
• Catalan people are some of the loveliest I’ve met on my travels, (especially in cities.) They are proud but also warm and open to telling you about their city and their culture.
• The food and architecture is some of the most unique and creative in all of Europe (in my humble opinion.)

Top Barcelona Sights

• Visit Gaudi’s masterpieces — including the famous La Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera, Casa Batllo, and Parc Guell.
• Spend the day out in Barcelona’s tapas bars, or the night out at its clubs (if that’s your jam.) I’ve never had quite as much fun as in these two places. Don’t leave without eating and drink at El Xampanyet!
• Stroll through the Gothic Quarter, a labyrinth of stone streets that contains much of Barcelona’s history. Walk through El Born — my favorite Barcelona neighborhood — down to the beach.

Stay: The One Barcelona

See also: Barcelona in Black and White

Athens

I was told many times that I probably wouldn’t like Athens, so I wasn’t expecting much. As beautiful as the Greek Islands are, I ended up extending my stay here to immerse myself further in the city — which is much more than just the Acropolis and the departure point to Santorini. Make sure that you make a point of spending at least a few days getting to know the Greek capital. (I think you’ll fall in love, too!)

Reasons to Go:

• Absorb the history of ancient Greece at sites like the Acropolis (and its wonderful museum.)
• Athens has some of the best street art, markets, and food out there. Look up and around for rooftop bars with views at night, too.
• If you’re craving a day of Greek island life (and let’s face it, who isn’t) you can still take a quick day trip to the fantastic island of Hydra.

Top Athens Experiences:

• Soak in the glory of the Parthenon at the Acropolis and learn more at the stunning Acropolis museum. Don’t miss the Ancient Agora or Temple of Olympian Zeus, which are two impressive sights both included in the Acropolis ticket price.
• Explore the streets of Monastiraki, a favorite Athens neighborhood for its flea market, views of the Acropolis, and many delicious tavernas.
• Take in a film at the Cine Paris, an outdoor movie theater with incredible nighttime views of (you guessed it) the Acropolis.

Stay: A is for Athens (fantastic rooftop bar here too!)

Lisbon

Lisbon is another European city I didn’t expect to love as much as I did. Although the good word is spreading, Lisbon remains affordable and relatively non-touristy compared to many of the other destinations on this list. It’s full of all the top draws to Europe — architecture, culture, and cuisine — without many of the downsides (costs, crowds, catering to visitors.)

Reasons to Go:

• City views: there are more opportunities to see the beautiful Lisbon rooftops from above than in most cities.
• Costs: As mentioned above, Lisbon is one of the European capitals where you’ll get the most bang for your buck (or Euro.)
• See some of Europe’s most beautiful castles with a day trip to nearby Sintra.

Top Experiences in Lisbon:

• Walk around in the Alfama, the oldest and one of the most beautiful districts of the city with stunning architecture and heaps of traditional corners and cafes.
• Speaking of architecture, keep your eyes peeled for azulejos, which are the beautiful painted ceramic tiles adorning many of the city’s iconic buildings.
• Eat and drink some of Portugal’s unique culinary treats — from vinho verde (green wine!) to pasteis de nata (a fantastic custard tart.)

Stay: The Lisboans Apartment

Ljubljana

Of all the European capital cities I’ve visited, Ljubljana was perhaps the biggest surprise. The first word that comes to mind when I think of it is…lovely. It’s just lovely there.

Perhaps some of it has to do with the fact that the city center is mostly pedestrianized, or that the sidewalk cafes spill out onto terraces, coinciding with long walks along the riverfront shaded by trees. Or perhaps it’s just that I hadn’t heard much about Ljubljana so I wasn’t expecting much. Regardless, this is one European capital city to move to the top of your list.

Reasons to Go:

• Charm and size. Ljubljana is small but lively, charming yet real. I am certain you will delight in just walking around there.
• Lake Bled, one of the most beautiful in Europe, is a short 45 minutes away by car or bus.
• Like any great city, there are a variety of local and international restaurants and museums worth exploring.

Top Ljubljana Experiences:

• See the city from atop the Castle Hill and walk around Ljubljana Castle. It’s especially pretty at sunrise or sunset.
• Meet up at Prešeren Square, do some browsing for local goods, at the Ljubljana Central Market, take in the sidewalk cafe culture.
• Ljubljana is great for walking, but you can also hire a bike or take a boat tour down the river for different perspectives of the city.

Stay: Adora Hotel

Read more: European Experiences for the Traveler Who Has “Done” Europe

Amsterdam

Amsterdam and I are overdue for some more time together, but the city made a mark on me when I visited over ten years ago. From cruising its canals to biking to and from its cafes, Amsterdam seems to leave a lasting impression on many. Go with an open mind, for you will be met with many!

Reasons to Go:

• Amsterdam is known for its forward-thinking, friendly locals. Sit in a cafe for a bit and soak up the local culture. (English is widely spoken.)
• Speaking of culture, the city is home to some of Europe’s best art and architecture.
• Check out Amsterdam’s local markets, food halls, and parks to experience the best Dutch cuisine and spaces.

Top Amsterdam Experiences:

• Explore the variety of neighborhoods. Consider renting a bike! Don’t miss Jordaan and consider checking out the Red Light District.
• Check out the major must-do sites such as the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh museum, and Anne Frank House.
• Take a boat tour down the canals (and enjoy some local food and drink while you do – many will let you bring your own.)

Stay: Hotel TwentySeven

Zagreb

Zagreb, the underrated capital of Croatia, was yet another pleasant surprise as a traveler. Like many of the cities on this list, it’s great for cafes, for art, for strolling. People often skip or overlook this great city in favor of Croatia’s coastline and the historic/Instagrammable Dubrovnik — but you definitely should not.

Reasons to Go:

• Zagreb’s cafe culture makes it worth a visit alone. Croatian wine and beer are both excellent, and typically inexpensive. And if you’re a coffee person…this is your city!
• You can day trip to some stunning national parks, including Plitvice Lakes and its many cascades.
• Word hasn’t quite gotten out, so Zagreb is one of few European capitals where you won’t see many tourists. (A major plus for me, personally.)

Top Zagreb Experiences:

• One of my favorite museums in the world is Zagreb’s Museum of Broken Relationships. They’ve done an amazing job of showcasing the universal complexity of human relationships and experience of heartbreak.
• Take in the architecture and city sights, including St. Mark’s Church and its iconic tiled roof, the Art Pavilion, Lotršćak Tower, Dolac Market and more. The city is divided into Upper and Lower, so you can explore a little of each
• Tour the city with Iva from Secret Zagreb to find hidden courtyards and hear well, secrets and stories of the city.

Stay: Hotel Esplanade

Read more: Road Tripping Croatia

Dublin

When I close my eyes and picture Dublin, I can almost feel the pint glass in my hand and hear the sweet sound of live Irish music. As the Irish capital, Dublin is a wonderful introduction to the country and its friendly culture. From historic sites to stunning parks to the insides of pubs, Dublin is endlessly charming and worth visiting over and over.

Reasons to Go:

• Pubs! It’s hard to imagine a better place to experience Ireland’s heart than over a pint. Even if you don’t drink, the atmosphere, conviviality, and music are reason enough to spend some time in them.
• Castles! Don’t miss the Dublin Castle in town and the Powerscourt Estate which is a short drive away.
• Trinity College Library. The stunning interior of this grand university’s library will take your breath away – even if you’re not a book nerd like me! Be sure to check out the Book of Kells exhibit on display there.

Top Dublin Experiences

• Walk around and take in the sights like St Patrick’s Cathedral, O’Connell Street, and the Ha’penny Bridge. Stop for a rest in the beautiful park of St Stephen’s Green.
• Explore the Temple Bar area. Yes, it’s a bit touristy and yes, it is still awesome.
• Go behind-the-scenes and see how the iconic beverages of Ireland are made at the Guinness Storehouse (great view from the top, too!) and the Jameson Distillery.

Stay: Merrion Hotel

Read more: Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin

So that’s my list! Did I miss anything?

I’ll put together some favorite Asia and U.S. capital cities list together soon, and I’m looking forward to hearing about which places you love most.

Some others I’d like to see, or see again, soon include:

• Berlin, Germany
• Budapest, Hungary
• Riga, Latvia
• Copenhagen, Denmark
• Stockholm, Sweden
• Prague, Czech Republic
• Bucharest, Romania

What’s the best European city you’ve been to? Would love to know your favorites!

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Both of us write about travel for a living, so as we planned our first retreat we considered spots around the globe for its location. We’re also two Northern California ladies living in San Francisco, though — and we realized that the beauty within a few hours drive from SF warranted staying closer to home.

Hopping in the car from SF, Carmel is just a two-hour drive from the city — and when you get there, you get a whole new vibe.

Dark green cypress trees frame deep blues and turquoises of the clear sea. Waves crash powerfully along the rugged California coastline. Colorful tiles line stairwells end at art galleries, garden passageways, and wine tasting rooms. Homes and shops feel a bit like they’ve been plucked out of a European fairytale.

Although I tend not to overuse the word ‘charming’ to describe a place, it’s the exact word that best suits Carmel-by-the-Sea.

I grew up visiting the coast from Monterey to Carmel often as a child. Still, we would need to thoroughly research the area and intimately get to know Carmel to host a group there in the way we wanted.

So now, I present…my heavily researched and double-triple-checked guide to Carmel, California — an easy day or (ideally) weekend trip from San Francisco. It’s one of my top picks for a getaway from the city.

Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Carmel

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Getting from SF to Monterey/Carmel

Without traffic, it takes just over two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey and Carmel. For every recent trip, however, we left San Francisco just before 6 am to beat all the traffic. Because you drive through the city and down past San Jose, there can be several slowdowns. I’d recommend driving in off-peak hours if you can — even if you’re just driving from the SFO airport.

If you have the time, Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove or Pebble Beach (near Monterey) are a few other stops to consider. Going from San Francisco to Carmel via Highway 1 is another slightly slower, but more scenic option that winds around the coastline.

And then when you arrive? Here’s what you need to know:

Things to Do in Carmel

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Stroll the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea

Walking along Ocean Avenue will take you past most of the town’s highlights. Be sure to duck into alleyways and passages that often lead to patios and gardens. (The Thomas Kinkade Gallery side door leads to one of the best!) Check out the Tuck Box and Cottage of Sweets to see some of the most fairytale-esque spots.

Walk the trails of Point Lobos State Park

I especially love the walk to China Cove, where you will see not only beautiful landscapes but also dozens of cute, chubby seals chilling on the beach below. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife — it’s not uncommon to see sea otters, seals, native birds, even whales (December to May.)

Spend a leisurely morning or an afternoon at Carmel Beach

Carmel Beach at the edge of town (and no more than a few blocks from everything) is one of the most beautiful beaches in California to me. Its soft, white sands and deep blue waters, often accompanied by impressive waves, make this a favorite spot for many. Walk or bike on the bluffs above, check out the oceanfront cottages as you go, and sit and relax on the sand if the weather allows.

Visit the Carmel Mission

The California Missions are some of the most beautiful and important parts of our state’s history. (Ask anyone who grew up here which one they did a report on in grade school!) Mission Carmel is one of the most beautiful, and most traditionally restored, of the 21 missions across the state.

Take the scenic drive down Highway 1, or the 17 Mile Drive

As adorable as the town of Carmel is, there is nothing better to me than a relaxed drive down the coastline just outside of it. Drive for just thirty minutes south and you can see some of the incredible scenery of California’s central coast. The 17 Mile Drive, while stunning, requires you to pay to enter ($9.50.) It’s worth doing at least once, but to me, there’s nothing more freeing or appealing than just taking off down the winding coastline.

Carmel Food

Where to Eat in Carmel

These are my favorite places to grab a bite in Carmel-by-the-Sea (after several visits.)

• Cultura Carmel: dinner + cocktails
• La Bicyclette: lunch or dinner
• Brophy’s Tavern: lunch or dinner + drinks
• Chez Noir: dinner
• The Stationaery: coffee, brunch, or lunch

Read more about the Best Restaurants in Carmel << in this post!

Vineyard Visit

Best Wineries in Carmel Valley

Folktale Winery

When we began scouting spaces in June last year, we knew we wanted to find and highlight some of the great (and low-key!) wine they’re making in Carmel Valley.

As soon as we stepped into the magical place that is Folktale Winery, we stopped the search. Their property is stunning, especially if you love modern design meets French chateau meets greenhouse space!

To us, the atmosphere is so special (and reflects Carmel so much,) and the food and wine was great (try their sparkling rosé!) that short of spending the whole weekend in Carmel Valley, this one winery will more than suit your needs. There are tons of tasting rooms in town, but Folktale Winery is a short 10-15 minutes away by car and worth visiting.

Bernadus and Georgis Winery were the other two that came highly recommended if you want to add to your wine tour of Carmel Valley during your stay.

Best Places to Stay in Carmel

Hotel Carmel

What I love most about Hotel Carmel isn’t just its size (a handful of rooms,) its location (right where you can walk to everything without being in a busy section of town,) or its beautiful design, but just how much staying there feels like home to me. Everything from a lobby that feels like a living room to a self-serve breakfast of bagels with fresh homemade strawberry cream cheese to the local wines served fireside makes me feel both comfortable and like I’m giving myself a little splurge. It remains my top hotel choice for Carmel.

La Playa Carmel

La Playa is the largest, more beachfront sister property of Hotel Carmel. It’s got a little bit more of a classic Carmel resort (rather than fresh and trendy) vibe, yet it’s similarly comfortable with large fireplaces, a friendly staff, and a great patio. Check out La Playa to see if it’s more your style…also highly recommended!

Hofsas House

If you’re looking for a friendly and budget-friendly place to stay right in the heart of town, you can do no better than the pink-colored Hofsas House.

The family-owned property has a historic past but retains its hospitality and warmth today. Actual warmth — via the dry sauna and heated pool on site or the in-room fireplace if you’re lucky — is a huge bonus on a chilly coastal day. You’ll be welcomed with friendly service, free breakfast (with fresh local pastries!), free parking, large room size, and many more amenities that make this a personalized and all-around lovely base in Carmel. Ask about ocean view room availability.

Neighboring Getaways

There’s so much around Carmel-by-the-Sea that’s worth seeing. Here are a few spots you can add to your Carmel vacation if you’re continuing down the coast.

Monterey

Enjoy the Monterey Bay Aquarium (my forever favorite,) Cannery Row, scuba diving, whale watching, and more.

It takes about two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey, whereas Monterey to Carmel takes only 10-12 minutes. Even if my visit is just to Carmel, I make a point to stop at Captain + Stoker, an excellent coffee shop in Monterey. I also loved Alvarado Street Brewery.

Big Sur

The two stars of the Big Sur coastline (which is a star in itself the whole way down) are McWay Falls and Bixby Bridge — the likes of which you’ve no doubt seen all over Instagram. I’m a fan of driving to Bixby Bridge for sunset at the very least, and love stopping to take in the coastline in Garrapata State Park‘s beaches and rocky, seascape nooks.

If you have the time, a camping trip in Big Sur amongst the trees and fresh coastal air is also very worth it!

Other Good Things To Note!

• You can fly directly into Monterey Regional Airport (MRY) from many West Coast airports. It’s worth connecting there rather than driving from SFO if you can manage it. It’s about ten minutes in an Uber to Carmel from there.
• Carmel is one of the most dog-friendly cities I’ve been to! If you’re lucky enough to have a four-legged friend in tow, you’ll be surprised to learn that the majority of Carmel hotels and restaurant patios are welcoming to dogs.
• There’s a beautiful, beautiful beach just past Carmel Beach (if you continue down the road, past where the parking ends.) It’s shaped like a crescent, is hardly ever crowded, and on a sunny day rivals any other beach I’ve seen in this world for natural beauty.

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Rolling hills of tea and mountains of spices make this one of the most scenic locations in the country. Here are my top places to visit in Munnar.

Like many travelers, I first visited India with the dream of seeing the Taj Mahal in mind. I explored the palaces and forts of Rajasthan, I prayed at the banks of the Ganges, I navigated the markets of Mumbai.

India’s most iconic experiences are unforgettable and famous (or infamous) for good reason…and they’re the moments that made me fall in love with the country.Yet as I continue to travel throughout India’s various states, I find the quieter and/or lesser known destinations to be just as alluring. One such place I kept hearing about — and finally planned a trip to — is Kerala.

Located on the southwestern tip of India, Kerala is known for its relaxed pace and palm-lined backwaters. It’s also one of the most literate, laid-back, and wealthy states in India, making for a departure from the stereotypes we often hear about the chaos of the north (which is also very worth visiting, just different!)

Planning a trip to Kerala, during which you can see the major highlights, often includes the backwaters of Alleppey, the beaches of Kovalam, and a semi-required stay in one of the major cities (often Kochi.)

You’ll often see pictures of Munnar — just yesterday it popped up as a computer background on a screen. Yet I find that most travelers to India don’t know about it (and there isn’t much information as to what to do in Munnar, either.)

I actually first thought about making a Munnar trip after seeing it on the big Bollywood screen, in Chennai Express. The rolling, green fields and winding roads through tea estates captivated me nearly as much as the song and dance!

Now having been, Munnar is a must-visit for me in all of India — and certainly for South India and Kerala. Here’s a travel guide for the best places to visit in Munnar, and what you need to know before you go:

Munnar Sightseeing – Things to Do in Munnar

Tea Plantations/Tea Gardens

The incredibly scenic tea plantations are bound to be the highlight of any Munnar trip. Most hire a driver for the day to take them through the area — I arranged mine through my accommodation, and that seems to be the most common way to tour them. Be sure to ask your car to stop at scenic points for photos and to take in the views!

Top Station

Perhaps Kerala’s most famous hike, this trail leads trekkers up to the incredible viewpoint at Top Station, more than 6,000 feet above sea level. From here you have amazing perspective on the Western Ghats (the mountain range bordering Munnar) and the valley down below. Fun fact: from here you’re practically on the border of Kerala and the state of Tamil Nadu. The hike is particularly beautiful at sunrise and sunset.

Kundala Lake

I didn’t think that I needed to seek out a lake in India, but surrounded by the hills of tea the pristine body of water takes on an extra visual appeal. I loved stopping here while we were driving around for the day, and you’ll find it free from crowds aside from the occasional peaceful local out for a stroll.

TATA Tea Museum

If you’re looking for a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the process of how tea is made, and you want to dive a little deeper into the history of the area, definitely plan to stop into the area tea museum. You can also taste a variety of different local teas in their tasting room.

Eravikulam National Park

Evavikulam is the place to go in search of protected natural beauty, particularly the Nilgiri Tahr or mountain goat of South India. You can also see Anamudi, South India’s highest peak, from inside the park. As it is one of the most popular Munnar tourist places, you’ll want to arrive earlier rather than later. It takes about an hour by car to reach it.

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

These protected lands of the Ikkudi district are home to the Bengal tiger, Indian elephant, spotted deer, and many more species unique to Kerala. It’s often visited in conjunction with a stop at Eravikulam, in order to spot the  Chinnar wildlife.

Waterfalls

There are a variety of beautiful falls to stop at as you make your way across the places to see in Munnar. Lakkam, Attukal, and Thoovanam are a few particularly worth seeing.

Recommended Munnar Resorts + Hotels in Munnar

I didn’t hear great things about the town of Munnar itself, so I opted to search for a quieter up in the Kannan Devan Hills.

SpiceTree Munnar

Not merely a serene place to sleep…the staff has thoughtfully planned out the entire stay so that you are getting a personalized introduction to the best activities and sights in Munnar.

It turned out to be one of my absolute favorite stays ever in India. I highly recommend it — it’s one of the best hotels in Munnar and one of my favorite restaurants in Munnar as well. It seems I’m not alone in this thought; it has been named the Best Small Hotel in India. There’s a reason it has a perfect five star rating on TripAdvisor!

The best part about staying at SpiceTree Munnar was not only the peaceful and private location, but all the activities that included as a part of your room rate. From daily yoga and Ayurvedic massage to guided hikes and nature walks through the local village to cooking classes and tea tastings…it’s all expertly arranged for and provided by Spice Tree. I really got to relax there knowing everything I wanted to do in the area was offered locally (and on a small, personal scale) by the hotel.

SpiceTree Munnar is located above the Bison Valley village among the Western Ghats, meaning it’s not in Munnar itself. It is a bit of a drive to get there from the nearest train station, but once you’re there you can really immerse yourself in the stay.

The entire experience from start to finish, from the pool to the restaurant, was memorable and personable. Their focus on sustainable tourism and respect for nature is enviable. I’m not one to rave about hotel stays as I usually find them generic or “just a place to sleep,” but I can’t recommend Spice Tree enough as the top choice for your Munnar stay.

Munnar Restaurants

I personally loved the restaurant at Spice Tree so much, that it was the only place I ate at during my stay. Each meal is served with Ayurvedic herbal water, and the staff goes above and beyond to provide both Western and South Indian meals (I highly recommend the Indian meals.) You can even take a cooking class with the Spice Tree chef to learn (and eat!) all the spices and fresh ingredients of the local cuisine.

How to Reach Munnar

Munnar isn’t as well connected as some other Kerala sites, but it’s certainly worth any trouble to get there. Once you’re there, I’d recommend anywhere from 2 days to a week, depending on how relaxed you want your getaway to be and if you have time to see other Kerala sights.

Getting from Kochi to Munnar

The journey takes about 4 hours by car. You can hire a driver for the day one-way, or hire someone to take you from Kochi that will also drive you around the area while you’re there. Be sure to negotiate and choose a reputable company before you select the driver, especially if you’ll be spending a few days with them. There’s also a bus service from Kochi, but do keep in mind that private drivers are especially affordable in India and can be worth the cost for the privacy and flexibility (you can stop at places along the way!)

Getting from Bangalore to Munnar

You can fly or drive from Bangalore to Munnar, but the preferred route for most travelers is to take the train to Ernakulam station. From there you can hire a taxi to your Munnar accommodation.

The nearest railway station to Munnar: Aluva or Ernakulam. About 3-4 hours drive to reach Munnar.

The nearest airport to Munnar: Kochi (COK.) About 4 hours drive.

Munnar weather: Given Munnar’s elevation and position as a hill station, it is generally pleasant year-round. While there isn’t necessarily a best time to visit Munnar, many travelers choose to avoid June to September when monsoon season delivers heavy rains.

Other Places to Visit in Kerala

There’s so many other scenic and friendly tourist places in Kerala to see. Most of them can be easily reached from Munnar. Here are a few to consider adding to your trip:

• Alleppey (Alappuzha:) gateway to the backwaters
• Wayanad: lush, forested area known for its wildlife
• Varkala: a hippie beach town in the best possible ways
• Kumarakom: a village and cluster of islands in the backwaters
• Kovalam: the best known beach area of Kerala
• Thekkady: home to Periyar National Park, one of the largest wildlife reserves in India
• Kochi (Cochin): a small but beautiful port city with colonial influences
• Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram): the capital city of Kerala known for its temples
• Kozhikode (Calicut): the third largest city in Kerala.

I was invited to stay at Spice Tree Munnar during my self-funded trip to Kerala. All opinions are strictly my own!

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I’ve spent many weekends, birthdays, and other celebrations exploring Napa food and neighboring wine country across Healdsburg, Sonoma, and Napa Valley. I have my go-tos in the Sonoma square and my favorite spots in the town of Healdsburg, yet somehow I had hardly spent any time exploring downtown Napa.

With the help of one of my oldest friends (who is now a winemaker and local there) I created a list of the best restaurants in Napa’s downtown area to scout out. I wanted to include not only wine tasting rooms and fancier restaurants but also craft breweries, markets, and local’s favorite places to eat.

I set out on a mission to see what flavors await those who may want to experience wine country but not jump into the crowds and craziness that can be the Napa Valley (word has gotten out!)

Downtown Napa Restaurants & Wine Tasting

Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa

After a short drive from the city, I decided to park myself in downtown and use it as a base to explore. Staying for a few nights in downtown Napa allowed us to walk everywhere (and not need to worry about designated drivers.) It’s a relaxing way to roam from one eatery to another, stopping for a stroll by the river or to browse some art in between. It became my new favorite wine country discovery, and equipped with this list and/or your own thirst for culinary experiences there…I am certain it will be yours, too.

Here is the list, which evolved a bit as I did my own hopping around:

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Note: I walked in without a reservation during my stay, but you may want to reach out ahead of time if you have a specific timing need or will be with a group larger than two.

Downtown Napa Wine Tasting Rooms

Acumen

A truly beautiful interior, lovely staff, an adjoining art gallery, and some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc I’ve had? What more could you ask for? If you go tasting at just one spot in downtown Napa, make sure you stop in here.

Compline

Named one of America’s top wine restaurants, Compline is top spot to sip wine They also offer wine education classes from their sommelier that I’m dying to get to.

Trahan-Prime Cellars Tasting Room

If you’re looking for a relaxed and comfortable wine tasting experience that feels a little like being in someone’s home (as opposed to a stuffy tasting room,) look no further than this friendly spot in downtown Napa. Two wineries have joined forces here, so you can taste a variety with the help of the knowledgeable staff. Also: priced extremely reasonably.

Brown Downtown

A beautifully designed and newly opened space, Brown Estate (located in nearby St. Helena) makes excellent wines, particularly their Zinfandel. The tasting room is chic, and the tasting price is steep ($40-50) but there is no doubt it’s one of the best places to drink wine in downtown Napa.

Best of Downtown Napa Beer

St. Clair Brown

This place was our favorite discovery of the trip and what will singlehandedly keep us coming back to downtown Napa. Veteran winemakers and brewers came together to create a boutique urban space, complete with a culinary garden, that is both comfortable and chic. During our visit, the warm and welcoming staff not only served us some of the best wine and beer of the weekend but came around with bites straight from the garden for us to taste. Safe to say (because well, we joined the beer club…) that this is one place we’ll be back to again and again. Highly recommended!

Trade Brewery

It was a delight to discover relative newcomer Trade Brewery, which is already winning awards for its craft beers that they continue to refine. Their taproom is friendly, and highlights of my flight and tasting included their 220 V Juicy IPA and Hatchet IPA, but all their beers are tasty. It’s nice to see a beer scene developing alongside the wine industry in Napa. Definitely worth a visit!

Tannery Bend

A short walk from the central area downtown, Tannery Bend is another great addition to the growing craft beer scene in Napa. They make both classic ales and pilsners and experiment with seasonal and unique brews. Their saison in particular gets rave reviews.

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Breakfast

C Casa

Two words: breakfast tacos! You can see them making the tortillas by hand, and while there’s no shortage of excellent Mexican food in California, they’re really doing it right here. Located inside Oxbow Market.

Alexis Baking Company

items like a leek and goat cheese omelet or creme brûlée French toast alongside freshly baked goods make this the go-to spot for locals who want a hearty breakfast.

Model Bakery

just around the corner from Oxbow, it’s an outpost of the famous Napa Valley bakery. They make artisan breads and are perhaps most well known for their English muffins (which Oprah apparently flies in for, NBD!)

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Lunch

Angele

Give me a riverside French countryside restaurant and I’ll give you my new favorite place to eat. From foie gras torchon to steak tartare, they’ve got a range of classic French dishes. They serve dinner here as well but I love sitting outside during the day.

Oxbow Public Market

A variety of options await at Napa’s fantastic gourmet market. Favorite options include Kitchen Door, Hog Island Oyster Bar, and Gott’s Roadside (both of the latter have other locations.) It’s also a great place to browse for culinary goods ranging from spices to olive oil to specialty bitters.

Bounty Hunter BBQ (and wine bar)

A massive wine list, rare Scotch, and a barbecue menu that includes St. Louis ribs, smoked beef brisket, and beer can chicken makes any list of mine. It’s a casual place that takes the pretense out of Napa without losing any of the intensely good flavors.

Downtown Napa Restaurants — Dinner

Torc

Ah, this might take the cake as my favorite meal we ate in downtown Napa. The open kitchen and dining room are bustling with activity, but the dishes are expertly presented and as good as anything I’ve eaten this year. No matter what you order it’s bound to be good — whether a hamachi crudo or roasted pork belly. Their ‘Taste of Torc’ set menu is a great way to go if you want to sample the restaurant’s highlights.

Zuzu

A most excellent array of tapas await at this cozy Spanish restaurant that favors local and organic foods from Northern California.

Other Recommended Food:

• Morimoto
• La Taberna
• Gran Electrica
• Napa Valley Coffee Roasting

Recommended Downtown Napa Hotels

These are my top picks for where to stay in downtown Napa:

If you’re looking for a grand hotel: Archer Hotel (don’t miss the rooftop bar!)

If a B&B in a Victorian house is more up your alley: Hennessey House B&B

If you’re wanting space and great value: Embassy Suites Napa (their complimentary breakfast is excellent!)

If you make it there soon, let me know how your trip went and what your favorites were!

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P.S. More wine?

A Guide to Bordeaux Wine Tasting

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P.P.S. Visiting San Francisco?

Where to Eat in San Francisco Series

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When the opportunity to housesit there arose, I thought: I’ll take the Paris to Bordeaux train down, do some Bordeaux wine tasting, eat a few French meals, and then…likely run out of things to do. I compared it to my day trips to Napa and Sonoma wine country — in which the area is beautiful, but there’d be much more for me to do in the city.

Oh how wrong I was!

Bordeaux is not just a wine region (although it is one of the world’s most famous.) It’s a city coming into its own — on the up for past ten years or so and with the largest protected city center in France, which received UNESCO World Heritage Status for its historic, cultural, and architectural value. The city has embraced its nickname of La Belle Endormie or “Sleeping Beauty,” having turned itself from a gritty port city to one of the most vibrant and beautiful small cities I’ve been to in Europe.

There is so much more than just wine in Bordeaux. Below I’ve included a few things worth seeing beyond the glass. Alas, most if not all travelers to the city and the Bordeaux region come with the intent of tasting the best Bordeaux wine — as they should. From the famous Grand Vin de Bordeaux and Bordeaux red wine to the delicate Sauternes (the only dessert wine I’ll drink,) and the incredible wine coming out of lesser known areas like Entre-deux-mers, there’s plenty to be had. And there’s no shortage of different places and ways to experience it. While the wine chateau can certainly be the way to go, many of them can be enjoyed without leaving the Bordeaux centre.

Spending several weeks in the same city, especially one as special as Bordeaux…you learn the best places to go (particularly for a glass of wine.) Here are my favorites… xx

Wine Tasting Bordeaux

Taste the Best Bordeaux Wine at a Local Wine Bar

This is my personal favorite way to sample the best French wines! Here are a few of the best Bordeaux wine bars:

• Aux Quatre Coins du Vin: This spot lets you taste incredible wines in a variety of pour sizes…meaning you can sip an expensive wine or try a bunch of different ones without having to get a glass. A great local place to hang out.

• CIVB Le Bar a Vin: The Conseil Interprofessionnel de Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) has opened their doors up in this beautiful wine bar at the center of town. They have tons of information on hand and can help you decide what to get, and they offer some of the region’s best wines in an affordable and approachable way.

• Le Wine Bar: I even love the exterior of this classic wine bar, which serves over 300 different wines in a cozy bistro setting.

Taste Rare Wines of the World

La Cite du Vin, the city’s must-see wine museum, takes visitors through the history and evolving cultural significance of wine not only in France but around the world. The seventh floor wine bar, however, with its birds eye view of the city and river, pours wines from otherwise unknown vineyards in places like Algeria and the Republic of Georgia.

Visit the Smallest Vineyard in Bordeaux

Grand vineyards and chateaus undeniably have their draw, but it’s hard to pass up the charm of ‘Vin de Jardin,’ a tiny winery that makes only 500 bottles a year. Set against the beautiful hotel Le Saint-James, you can find it just outside of the city in the town of Bouliac.

Bordeaux Wine Tours

A wine chateau can seem harder to get a reservation at than the top restaurants in France (especially if you don’t speak French.) For this reason, many visitors opt for a Bordeaux wine tour of the nearby vineyards and chateaux.

Which Bordeaux wine tour to take? It depends how much of the production process you want to see, how well known the chateau name is that you’re trying to visit, how much time you have, and how much you want to spend.

Visit the Bordeaux Tourist Office

Not only can they make recommendations and help you make reservations, they can give you the invaluable knowledge of when each of the vineyards is open (times vary widely.) There are also a variety that require a car to access, and the tourism office can point you in the right direction if you want to see some wineries by public transportation. I found them to be both friendly and informative.

Take a Tuk Tuk Through the Vines

Why walk or drive through the famous vines when you can drive through some of France’s most beautiful vineyards on the back of a tuk tuk? Cruise through narrow streets and top wine spots in a fun and unique way. You can hire one from the center of town or book in the tourist office. 

The Bordeaux to St Emilion train runs nearly every hour from Gare Saint-Jare and takes only about 30 minutes each way.

Things to Do in Bordeaux

Taste Traditional Sud Ouest French Cuisine

A classic, homey bistro that’s known to serve some of the most traditional and tasty food in the region, you’ll be welcomed to La Tupina like you’re in someone’s home in the countryside. A great way to taste what’s great about Southwest France  — and it’s my top restaurant recommendation for Bordeaux.

Reflect at the Miroir d’Eau

The world’s largest reflection pool happens to sit in one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Many come to play in the water or see the views, but it’s worth seeking out not only by day but by night when the historic city buildings are lit up.

See Bordeaux’s Alternative Side

The beautiful open-air space in Darwin, across the river from the historic city center, is a haven for artists and entrepreneurs. There are sustainability initiatives, the largest organic restaurant in France (and fantastic brunch!), vibrant street art, a skate park and more if you’re looking for the modern side of Bordeaux.

Visit the Markets

Whether it’s eating at the classic Marché des Capucins or strolling by the river on a Sunday for the Marché des Quai Chartrons, most of Bordeaux’s best food and wine can be found in a local market. Check out the book market (!) and the antiques markets as well!

Bordeaux Day Trips

Picnic Atop Europe’s Largest Sand Dune
Dune du Pilat, France

A short bus or car ride away from Bordeaux is the largest sand dune on the continent, which makes not only for a steep climb or a unique beach day but one of the most memorable places to bring some cheese and wine and enjoy a picnic in nature. You can get there in an hour by train from the Gare Saint-Jean.

Sample Oysters Straight from the Sea
Arcachon Bay, France

Whether at the local market or by the sea in nearby Arcachon, there’s no denying that slurping fresh oysters is an essential but often overlooked Bordeaux activity. I recommend a trip over to Cap Ferret (a short ride from Arcachon,) which is the most beautiful and laid-back French beach town I’ve ever heard of.

Where to Stay in Bordeaux

Bordeaux has some of the best value Airbnb stays I’ve seen in France! I have found great places for 1-2 people for as little as $25 a night, so there’s no excuse not to stay in Bordeaux for several days. Get $40 off your first stay.

If you’re more keen on a hotel stay, I’d recommend:

• Intercontinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hôtel (Luxury): This hotel is the hotel of Bordeaux — right at the heart of the city center, beautifully appointed, and worth a visit even if you aren’t staying there.
• Hotel de Seze: A beautiful hotel that’s also in the center of the city, it’s a comfortable and well-designed stay that’s a little more midrange in price (but no less lovely!)

More to come regarding this favorite city of mine, but I hope this will put Bordeaux on your radar and give you a place to start when it comes to wine tasting Bordeaux.

Cheers // À votre santé!

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// Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown Napa //

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Even now that I live a bit farther away, I find myself drawn back to SD — first and foremost to visit one of my best friends who lives there (shoutout to her for inspiring this list!) but also to complete an annual taste test of the best tacos in San Diego — you know, for research purposes.

If you’ve got a weekend in San Diego, let this list of the best fish tacos (which I’ve expanded really to be taco joints of any kind where seafood features prominently) be your guide.

And yes — Mexican food here is a big deal, and yes, it is that much better than it is in other U.S. cities. (Remember, you can see the border from some of the places on this list!)

The Best San Diego Fish Tacos

A Self-Guided Taco Tour

Plan your stomach capacity ahead.

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Prepare yourself for a full experience (pun intended) of San Diego’s best tacos. For our first stop, we’ll head to the closest spot you can get a life-changing taco in straight from your arrival in SD.

The Taco Stand

Locations: Downtown, North Park, La Jolla, Encinitas

I’m not joking with you when I say this place may have changed my life. They have a classic fried fish taco that’s one of the best.

Part of the reason was that I didn’t expect it to — they have multiple locations all over the city, and of course grilled shrimp on fresh corn tortillas and carne asada on fries is going to be amazing (right?)

I was treated to a downright feast at their downtown location, and due to being in a group, got to taste a bunch of different menu items and salsa combinations. The single best thing to grace my face was the spectacular Mar y Tierra fries, though again you won’t want to skip the Baja taco here.

What to Order: Mar y Tierra fries, Sonora taco, Baja taco, Al Pastor.

From here you’ll head down south to the neighboring city of Chula Vista for our next three stops. These tacos are worth any inconvenience and/or time spent in the car to get there.

Tacos El Gordo

Location: 689 H Street, Chula Vista
Also at: 3265 Palm Avenue in San Diego.

We’re going to deviate from fish tacos before we head straight back into seafood town, because the next spot serves up authentic fare from just across the border in Tijuana, BC and believe me when I say…these are some of the best tacos you can eat in this wide world.

I would tell you to wash down your delicious, authentic tacos with horchata here, but let’s be honest, you need to save room for our next stop.

What to Order: If you skip the adobada here, please never tell me about it. It is a MUST.
The carne asada, chorizo, and lengua are excellent choices, depending on your mood/tastes. Be aware that there are different lines for each taco.

El Pescador

Location: 1008 Industrial Boulevard, Chula Vista

If fish tacos are San Diego’s signature food item, this food truck is their shrine.

Less of a taco stand and more of a food truck with a permanent location, your first bit of El Pescador changes the fish taco game in a big way. It’s a family-owned spot that’s easy to miss — but hard to forget once you’ve tasted their fish tacos. Go easy on the sauces at first — most are pretty spicy. And don’t miss the free seafood consommé they give you to sip on while you wait! 

What to Order: Two words. Spicy Shrimp!
Also, try the Gobernador and the marlin if you have the stomach space. You can’t go too wrong here. Just be prepared to stand — there isn’t much seating at all (not that you’ll care after you taste it!)

TJ Oyster Bar

Location: 4246 Bonita Road, Bonita (just up the road from Chula Vista)
Also: 601 E Palomar Street, Chula Vista

What began as a Tijuana fish taco cart in the 80s is now a powerhouse in the San Diego fish taco and seafood scene. They even (God Bless this place) keep their fish taco price fixed at $0.99 to stay true to their taco cart roots. And really, isn’t that the way it should be?
Their fish taco might be my favorite of all, but it’s the tostadas like the smoked tuna and the stingray machaca that make a truly lasting impression. Their micheladas are money here as well.

What to Order: Fish tacos, stingray machaca (spicy!) anything else you have room for at this point.

Next, we’ll head to what is considered one of the best taco spots in not just San Diego, but all of America. You’ll find that it tops the lists of many people’s favorite fish tacos — and while that certainly doesn’t make it the best by default, it’s a great place to end your taco tour (if you still have room in your stomach!)

Oscar’s Mexican Seafood

Locations: Pacific Beach (PB,) N. Pacific Beach, Hillcrest, Encinitas, East Village

Oscar’s is well-regarded for its grilled fish taco, which uses fresh, local ingredients including a sauce made in house daily. They also have excellent ceviches, seafood tortas, and best of all — a taco happy hour Monday to Thursday from 2:30-5:3opm where tacos are a mere $1 each.

What to Order: classic fish taco, surf ‘n’ turf, taco especial (smoked fish, shrimp, and scallops,) grilled octopus taco. Be aware that some locations only take cash.

At this point I pray you maybe feel like taking a break from fish tacos or tacos in general, but if your thirst cannot be easily quenched (believe me, I get it) and you seek to continue your quest…this is where I’ve been told you’ll want to go next:

Other Recommended Spots:

• Puesto
• Lucha Libre
• La Playa Taco Shop
• The Brigantine
• El Comal (smoked marlin taco)
• Blue Water Seafood Market and Grill
• ¡Salud!

A final word: in the debate of battered/fried fish tacos versus grilled fish tacos, there is really only one winner.

If you’re on a dedicated search for the best fish taco in San Diego (or on Earth,) you have to go with battered (not grilled.) I’m sorry. Work it out with your healthy intentions after. It has to be this way.

And if you’re looking for more to do in San Diego than just eat (which is acceptable,) check out this awesome San Diego itinerary.

San Diegans/friends of San Diego taco tour — where else would you add?

Happy eating and taco hunting!

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