The post Weekend Getaway: San Francisco to Mendocino appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>Seeking a calm weekend getaway from San Francisco? Look no further than Mendocino.
Growing up in Northern California, I thought I had weekend destinations here well established. Somehow it still took years of living in San Francisco for me to finally get to Mendocino. When I finally did, for the first time last spring, it quickly became a new favorite spot to get a change of pace from the city. Mendocino refreshes you in a way that is hard to describe.
Just a few hours drive up the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco, being here always feels like a breath of fresh air (maybe because it literally is?) Whether clear or misty, a wild, jagged coast awaits you, and no matter how many times you visit it feels like you’ve discovered some nature-filled secret. The redwood-lined drive in alone puts me instantly at ease.
I first ended up in Mendocino when looking for a weekend trip from SF where we could bring our dog along. It’s not only dog-friendly, it’s close for most of the Bay Area but is just tucked away enough to feel worlds away (in a good way!)
We first spent five days exploring the area and enjoying its beaches, trails, parks, gardens, and cafes. More recently I had the chance to return for my first trip with a newborn in tow.
If you’re looking for a coastal trip that’s beautiful, calm, and friendly to all, it is definitely worth treating yourself to a Mendocino weekend. Here’s what you need to know to plan a visit of your own.
From San Francisco, it’s a short 3-hour drive through Marin and Sonoma, up the coast, and through the redwood forest. Plan 4 hours for a more leisurely drive with stops. You can also take two buses to get there if a car isn’t in your plans, but it’ll take you about double the time. I recommend driving if you can.
My favorite place to stop along the way is Boonville. It’s always where we grab a bite (shoutout to the Disco Ranch, the loveliest wine bar and specialty food market) but you can also pause at any of the Andersen Valley wineries that call to you along the way. A few I recommend include Toulouse Vineyards, Husch Winery, Navarro Vineyards, and The Madrones, which has four tasting rooms in one beautiful location. Healdsburg is another favorite wine country spot that’s easy to stop at along the way — although I typically reserve this for its own visit as it’s much closer to the city.
I stayed at the same spot for both visits to the area: the wonderful Stanford Inn. There are many lovely inns along the coast, but for me, Stanford Inn checks all the boxes for a weekend getaway — peaceful, pet-friendly, family-friendly, and in general, friendly (i.e. wonderful people run the place!)
It’s set in a meadow with organic gardens and farmland, with ocean views from many of the rooms. It’s quiet but still close to town and has its own truly fantastic vegan restaurant on site (plus, breakfast is included each morning with your stay.) A bonus of the location is its proximity to Big River, with Catch-a-Canoe rentals and launch area steps from the inn’s front door.
To me, the highlight of the Stanford Inn is its focus on wellness. I recommend relaxing on the property for at least one day to enjoy their gardens, sauna, and pool. They offer yoga classes, massage (in the forest!), gardening classes, plant-based cooking classes, and art therapy regularly. You can also arrange to experience acupuncture, Ayurveda, meditation, breathwork, or Chinese herbology with their knowledgeable staff. They even have free mountain bikes available to guests. Or, you can opt for my favorite activity as of late — lounging in front of the fireplace. There’s one in every room.
They welcome all pets, but for us, the small touches like freshly made dog treats and blankets so that our dog could sit comfortably on the couch with us, make all the difference. We opted for the two-room suite for our family of four (furry friend included) and it was great to have the extra space. Having stayed in multiple different room types there, you’re in for a treat no matter which space suits your travel style.
Whether you’re in town for the weekend or an extended stay, there’s plenty to see and do (in a leisurely manner, of course.) I like to mix and match something active with something relaxing, like a hike with a restaurant or a beach trip with a bike ride. Here are a few things to bookmark as you explore:
There is a wealth of places to enjoy a stroll in nature and get your forest bath on. A few noteworthy trails include the Russian Gulch Waterfall Loop, the Fern Canyon Trail, the Big River Trail, a Mendocino Headlands cliff walk, and the newly opened Noyo Headlands Coastal Trail a bit further up north.
You can bike all throughout Mendocino and its surroundings. Biking leisurely around the downtown area is always fun, stopping for a snack or a drink along the way. Mountain bikers are also welcome on many of the hiking trails listed above. You can bike on old logging roads in Jackson Demonstration Forest. Heading inland a bit, Manly Gulch Trail is a great forest path for biking. If you’re looking to bike next to the ocean, check out the Ten Mile Beach Trail just north of Mendocino in Fort Bragg.
Many of the area’s best trails are located in state parks. Bookmark Van Damme State Park, Mendocino Headlands, MacKarricher State Park, Russian Gulch State Park, Caspar Headlands State Park, and Jug Handle State Reserve, and visit whichever works best for you on any given day (they’re all beautiful.)
Be on the lookout for grey whales passing through if you’re visiting during the winter. Year-round, we love exploring the tidepools at MacKarricher State Park. For those of you with pups in tow, the Headlands trail and MacKarricher boardwalks are both dog-friendly.
One of my very favorite activities in this area is a calming paddle up Big River. If your preference is to stay on land, there is also a great hiking and biking trail that follows the river, or you can enjoy the views at Big River Beach where the river meets the ocean. Canoeing or kayaking all but guarantees a slower pace, with a sense of connection to the nature around you. We always see tons of wildlife, including birds, otters, and harbor seals.
If after hitting the trails and beaches, you may be inclined to slow down a bit further. Up the highway, you’ll find the Mendocino Botanical Gardens, a sublime garden spread out over 47 acres. You’ll need to purchase your ticket in advance ($15,) and check their website for their opening hours which vary by season.
If you’ve had enough forest bathing and want to switch gears to actual bathing, look no further than the Sweetwater Spa. The eco spa in the center of downtown has outdoor soaking tubs to access either privately or communally (note that clothing is optional in the community tub.) There’s also a redwood sauna on site. You’ll want to reserve the private soaking tub in advance.
These are my favorite places to grab a bite in and around Mendocino (after several visits:)
And to drink, check out North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg if you enjoy craft beers! Fort Bragg is the area’s largest town, located about 15 minutes drive up the coast from Mendocino’s downtown.
I hope you enjoy the area, including the scenic drive from San Francisco to Mendocino, as much as I have! Let me know in the comments if you have other favorite spots you recommend exploring here.
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]]>The post Things to Do on the Big Island of Hawaii appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>Read on for the top experiences and my tips for the Kona side of the island
Although travel is such a big part of my life now, like many of us, I didn’t grow up traveling often. Hawaii was the one place I returned to repeatedly as a child. I was lucky enough to grow up spending my October break from school exploring the Big Island’s seas, parks, and beaches.
So I jumped at the recent chance to return with Fairmont Orchid, a resort perched toward the northern tip of the island on the stunning Kohala Coast. I had the chance to experience the beaches and the stunning coastline just off of the property and revisit a few Kona-side locations — longtime favorite places that I’ll share with you here.
If you’re planning a trip to Hawaii’s Big Island, you’ll fly into the Kona International Airport, and, more likely than not, you’ll be staying somewhere along the western or Kona coast side, also known as the “dry side” of the island.
Here are the places to know about in and around Kona, and my top things to do in Kona and the Kohala Coast. Depending upon your desired daily pace, you can mix and match day and night activities to create your own one-week itinerary for the Big Island.
This is the main town on the Big Island, and where you’ll find most of the island’s historic buildings including King Kamehameha’s former home — as well as most of the shopping. It’s the center of activity and commerce for the island, including the airport you arrived in.
The weather here is dry and sunny most days of the year, and there are some especially charming parts of Kailua-Kona, especially along the coast. I love taking a drive from the center of town along Ali’i Drive, which winds along Kailua Bay. Driving south you’ll hit Keauhou, which I’ll mention more about below.
Heading north from Kona you’ll hit an open stretch of highway until you start seeing turnoffs to the beaches and resorts. Once you see signs for Anaehoomalu Bay, you’ve reached the beautiful Kohala Coast. Several resorts, as well as Waikoloa Village, call this area home.
If you’re staying here you can also expect mostly sunny days, and you’ll have access to some of the best beaches on the island. I recommend having a car regardless, but you’ll need one if the Kohala Coast is your base during your stay.
on the Kona side of the Big Island
A huge portion of the Big Island’s beauty lies under the water’s surface. No matter your comfort level with the ocean or with wildlife encounters, there is a range of underwater experiences to suit all.
I love scuba diving, but I am terrified of any night dive/swim/snorkel. I finally had the chance to snorkel with the mantas in Keahou Bay, and let me just say: 1) they took care of everything so well that I wasn’t even scared and 2) it was one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve had in the ocean (or on land.)
Whether it comforts or annoys you that you’ll be surrounded by dozens of other people while you snorkel with them, it doesn’t matter much because you’re head in the sea, relaxing and drifting above a light that attracts the phytoplankton they eat. I went with SeaQuest and found it to be a fantastic operation all around.
One of the most magical creatures you can see in the Kona waters is the honu, or sea turtle. They are quite present and chances are that you’ll see one if you snorkel multiple times during your trip. (Please do not disturb them on land or sea — keep your distance and show some respect.)
That said, you can certainly increase your chances by choosing your snorkeling site accordingly. I went in the ocean every morning (snorkeling is always best in the morning!) while staying at the Fairmont Orchid, and the bay off of the resort is one of the best spots I’ve ever found…I saw them every single time.
Another good spot to spot sea turtles is also one of the most family-friendly snorkel sites by Kona. Although it can get crowded due to its popularity and central location, Kahalu’u Beach Park is a sheltered cove with easy entry/exit similar to the Fairmont beach option. These calmer waters tend to attract both the turtles and the newer snorkelers (plus tons of fish!)
By far my favorite way to experience the Kona area and Kohala Coast is from the water and on a boat. Here are my top recommendations for how to do so:
Located south of Kona and just after Keahou, Kealakekua Bay is one of the most beautiful spots on the Kona coast. Known to some as Captain Cook’s Bay for the presence of the Captain Cook monument there (it’s where he was killed,) it’s most notably a marine reserve and one of the best spots to snorkel on the island.
The last time I visited I drove and parked at the southern side of the bay, bringing my own gear (rented from Boss Frog’s in downtown Kona) and snorkeling along the water’s edge. I don’t recommend this route unless you favor ocean exploration and are an experienced swimmer, but it can be done without guidance.
For most of my visits, I opt for renting a kayak or taking a boat trip to the bay. Kealakekua is the focus of the Fairwind II snorkel trip, so you’ll see it if you book with them.
Until I get better at surfing someday, boogie boarding or even body surfing is my wave action of choice. Always be aware of surf conditions before entering the water, and if you’re hesitant about safety better to stay onshore than be swept away.
I recommend purchasing an inexpensive boogie board if your accommodation doesn’t have any, and you plan on riding waves for more than a few days as it often won’t cost much more than a rental would. (But it depends on the length of your stay.)
Most of the land-based adventures you’ll want to seek will be somewhat of a drive from Kona the west side of the Big Island. Still, there are a few that are closer that I recommend:
If you’re a coffee connoisseur or enthusiast, it’s worth seeking out Kona coffee — grown in the rich volcanic soil and known worldwide for its quality. Take it one step further and you can visit a coffee farm to learn about and see the production process.
Since I grew up enjoying the Kona Costco as my main food stop, this is a recent find for me. Tropical fruits, local, handcrafted products, and more await. The main Kona Farmers Market runs Wednesday to Sunday from 7 am to 4 pm, but here’s a list of all the farmers markets on the island.
If you’re interested in exploring the island by land rather than sea, you’ll want to rent a car and check out the spots below. All are day-trippable from the Kona and Kohala coasts, but some are longer drives than others.
Waimea and Hawi are both a short drive from the Kohala Coast and offer a bit more of a local, small-town feel than Kona or Hilo. In Waimea, be sure to check out Arvo for coffee, Pau for amazing breakfast burritos or pizza, and Hawaiian Style Cafe for their loco moco and haupia pancakes — both of which will give you a taste of local Hawaiian flavor on a huge scale (the pancakes are seriously the largest ones I’ve ever seen.)
(the top three are musts for me)
This is my favorite place to go on the island to connect with the history and culture of Hawaii. The Place of Refuge provided a place for Hawaiians to seek safety and forgiveness from a priest when fleeing a crime. Located just south of Kealakekua Bay, making it a great combination activity to do both in one day.
It’s one thing to admire hula at a luau, and another to try dancing it yourself! I had the best time learning about the beautiful Hawaiian form of storytelling and movement as a part of my stay at Fairmont Orchid (reserve in advance.) It seems that most hula lessons for the public are given at hotels and resorts
This was another discovery on my most recent trip, as it was very close to where I stayed. Even though you have to walk through a resort to get to them, connecting with the centuries-old art carved into the rock is humbling. Get there via a short stroll from the Waikoloa Hotel (near Kings’ Shops.)
In my ideal world, every spa would share this concept — open-air massage with the sound of waterfalls or the ocean, the touch of a warm sea breeze, and the shade of a tropical tree.
Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel, it’s worth seeking a relaxing treatment at the Fairmont Orchid spa (treat yourself.) Their pool and hammocks are also lovely for relaxing.
I hadn’t been on a SUP in the ocean before, and I certainly hadn’t done yoga on one! This was one of my favorite new experiences on the Big Island.
It was a standard vinyasa yoga class in the most non-standard location. You take a board from the shore out to the shallow bay at the Fairmont Orchid just as the sun is rising. And even though I’m a seasoned yogi who practices regularly, I still managed to fall in the water — but I didn’t mind! It was wonderful to practice in such a peaceful place where my balance was still challenged (and I could see fish swimming underneath my feet the whole time!)
Whether you want a private beach cabana or simply want your toes in the sand, you can’t beat beach time on the Big Island. Most of the best beaches on the Kona side — see below for my favorites!
Most of the Big Island’s best beaches can be found on the same stretch of the Kohala Coast. One thing I wish I had realized earlier is that many of the top resorts have to allow public beach access and free parking to a limited number of visitors per day. This means you can enjoy some of the best beaches right on luxury resort properties without paying the hundreds (or thousands) per night to stay there.
A few to note include the Mauna Kea Beach (Kauna’oa) at the Mauna Kea Resort, Kikaua Beach at Kukio Golf Resort, and Kukio Beach at the Four Seasons Hualalai. Simply ask for public beach access at the gated areas before arrival. There is a limit on the number of daily visitors, so your best bet is to arrive as early as possible in the day.
This is my favorite beach in the world. Although I will often take a boat here, you can also access it by land. You have to hike for a bit over lava rock (I recommend doing this in the early morning — much more pleasant,) but the reward is fewer crowds — and one of the most beautiful beaches in the world (in my humble opinion.)
How to find it: the entrance to it is located between mile markers 90 and 91. If you have trouble finding it by map, look for Kekaha Kai State Park, which it is a part of. Head to nearby Kua Bay (also a great beach) if you’d like easier access. Both are just north of Kona International Airport.
Another somewhat hidden local favorite, Beach 69 (named so for its location near the mile marker, of course) aka Waialea Bay is all-around wonderful. I think it’s best for snorkeling and shade, naturally provided during most of the day by the many trees on the beach.
Growing up this was just the Mauna Kea beach to me as it is directly in front of the Mauna Kea Beach Resort (a beautiful hotel.) What most people don’t realize is that there is public parking (although limited) at the hotel for access to this beautiful beach. It’s a lot like Hapuna but on a smaller scale.
This is the long and wide white sand beach of your Hawaii dreams. Although it is home to resort traffic and can get crowded, its beauty and convenience make it a draw — particularly so for swimmers, boogie boarders, and families.
Known to many as simply ‘A Bay,’ Anaehoomalu is a favorite for windsurfing and sunsets.
If you’re looking for more beach information, or simply any information at all to be frank — I recommend the latest version of this guidebook which I have been using for 20+ years (the best.)
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I hope this gives you the guidance you seek for the most excellent trip to Hawaii’s Kohala Coast and Kailua-Kona. Let me know which part you love most! Mahalo <3
UPDATED: March 2023. Disclaimer: One of my many visits to the Big Island was in collaboration with the Fairmont Orchid. All opinions and destination recommendations come from decades of trips and are distinctly my own.
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]]>The post It’s Always ‘Le Weekend’ in Paris: Paris Itinerary appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>My wish and hope for you is that you have more than a weekend in Paris. Alors, a visitor’s mindset is that it’s always ‘le weekend’…plus, few days in Paris is better than no time in Paris at all!
Most years, I spend most of October in France. And most of that time is spent in Paris.
(By the way, October is the best month to be in Paris – if you ask me.)
There is something magical about any time spent in the French capital, particularly if you’re a visitor to the city. Even if you have just a weekend in Paris, you can take a ‘flaneur’ or ‘flaneuse’ approach, which just means one who wanders for pleasure and without aim.
If your ideal Paris weekend includes a desire to hit the major museums and monuments, or if you haven’t visited before, you may wish to spend your time differently and take a meandering approach on a return visit. This relaxed, curious method of exploring the city can be frustrating for someone who has limited time or is visiting for the first time — I get that.
If you had only a weekend to spend in Paris, would you run around checking off boxes, seeing as many sights as possible, and queueing to see a famous piece of art? Or would you stroll along the Seine, linger over a book in a cafe, and picnic in a park?
I will guide you not by ‘what to do on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.’ I will instead give you the framework resulting from my many favorite days and weeks in the city. And if you have visited before, I believe this ‘Weekend in Paris’ way of experiencing the city will open up its beauty to you in a whole new way.
Let the mindset of the purposeful wandering of the flâneur be your guide.
It’s most convenient to choose your accommodation in this neighborhood as well, but you don’t have to.
A few favorites:
Of course the one you choose would ideally be near your accommodation so that you can get to know the people there and greet them every morning or so, almost as if you lived there.
A few suggestions:
I also love visiting Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in Paris (located in the Marais))
Not a 100% necessary move, but one that is certainly enjoyable. I like drinking my local coffee and/or wine on a balcony that’s private to me, as well as enjoying the big windows and absorbing Paris in motion from above. (Recommended apartments listed at end of post!)
Some recommended parks for picnics:
Suggested picnic goods:
One of the greatest pleasures of Paris is simply wandering the streets with no plan. Put on your best walking shoes, soak in the beauty, and give it a try — you never know what you might find.
Not sure where to start? I love strolling from Saint-Germain-des-Prés past the Notre Dame cathedral, some of the most beautiful bridges across the Seine, and the Île Saint Louis, perhaps stopping for ice cream at Berthillon or in to see the impressive stained glass at Saint Chapelle. Nearby you’ll find one of my favorite tucked-away squares, Place Dauphine. This is one of my favorite self-led walking tours in all the city and the recipe for the perfect Paris day. Enjoy <3
Wander into a wine bar at happy hour or later in the evening. Discover regions of wine (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, etc.) and enjoy the free-flowing inexpensive wines. Particularly good on a Paris weekend. I love:
Lingering over classic French food at a long-standing Parisian bistro is always a good idea. A few I recommend:
Like the seated version of being a flaneur, one of the very best ways to experience Paris is to watch the world pass by from a cafe. You can’t go too far without running into one, but here are some cafe etiquette tips, along with a few favorite cafes:
Modern Paris has a variety of cultures and cuisines to sample. Check out Septime, Semilla, Verjus, Papillion, and Frenchie (to name a few) for some fantastic food that’s more modern than classic. There are also some incredible restaurants with non-French cuisine if you’re looking for more options. Pick up the book The New Paris before your trip for more.
If you’ve seen them before, I highly recommend skipping the fight with the crowds at The Louvre and D’Orsay. Many of the smaller museums of Paris are sadly overlooked by even frequent visitors. The three I’d head to first are:
There is a lot to love about Parisian food, and don’t think just in terms of French food! However, here are a few to taste from other regions of France while you’re in the city.
Make a pilgrimage to Shakespeare and Company, Paris’s most famous English bookstore. It’s a friendly and important home to a lot of the city’s past and present literary scene.
See the Eiffel Tower up close. If you’ve already stood under it/beside it, check out a new angle or sit at a cafe that has a view of it. (I once tried to skip the Eiffel Tower on a visit, insisting I didn’t need to visit it, but I caved and went to see it and lo and behold, it still charms.) Another good, somewhat hidden spot to view it is the rooftop terrace of the Galeries Lafayettes — simply go to the 7th floor of the department store for a (free) panoramic view of Paris.
Versailles is truly a sight to behold, and it’s a quick train ride from Paris. If you’re really interested in going, it’s very worth it. However, there is so much to do/see in Paris I usually recommend staying in the city if you only have limited time. It remains one of the best day trips from Paris.
How to Make French Friends (or at the least, have the best chance of starting off on a good foot wherever you go:)
Say ‘bonjour’ or ‘bonsoir’ and ‘merci, au revoir’ as you enter and exit any storefront or restaurant. Even if you don’t speak any other French, it’s an important part of French culture to say these things upon entry/exit and will you put you miles ahead of others for service and general friendliness when in Paris.
Also, it may sound funny but smiling is generally frowned upon (ha.) You’ll find that French people may not be as warm and friendly as you’re used to in other places, especially if you’re coming from the States. Remember, this does not mean they’re not lovely people — and you might find that out with a little bit of spoken French and/or working to fit into French culture while you’re there.
Bon voyage <3
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]]>The post Things to Do in Whitefish, Montana appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>Whitefish, MT draws many visitors to its popular ski resort and for its proximity to the stunning Glacier National Park, and rightfully so. It is also a destination in its own right — a welcoming and wonderful small town with bold landscapes right at its doorstep.
For years I’ve felt drawn to Montana. The town of Whitefish is surprisingly well-known given its size; I think that has something to do with its feel both as a chic resort village and hidden mountain escape. With its community feel, fresh mountain air, and a gem of a culinary scene, Whitefish was a great home base for my first stay in the state.
Whether you’re staying there to visit the park or simply to enjoy the town and surrounds itself, there is lots to love about this beautiful part of America. Here is an overview of the top things to do in Whitefish:
With 10+ trailheads and 42 miles of natural surface to walk, bike, or hike on right next to town, there are plenty of scenic views and forested paths to keep any nature-lover happy. Some of the most popular hikes include Lion Mountain and Swift Creek. Whitefish Trail is runner, dog, horse, and kid-friendly.
You find all the trailheads and a trail map here.
Located just outside town, the Whitefish Bike Retreat is a lodge, hub, and training center created especially for bikers. As someone who had never been on a mountain bike before, I headed out here to learn some new skills and try out some of the nearby trails.
Whether you’re going for the day, camping overnight, or staying at the lodge — or even just popping in for a coffee or a beer during your ride — you’ll find some of the friendliest faces (including cute dogs!) to welcome you. They’re uniquely equipped to help with any and all biking needs, so it’s a good spot to know of if you plan on doing any mountain biking while in town. I highly recommend this spot!
The glacial lake bearing the same name as the town is a favorite spot for visitors and locals alike. In the summer you can lounge in the sun or in shaded areas along the water, or, if you prefer to be active, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard and take to the lake. There is also a public boat launch and designated areas for swimming.
An interpretive trail that’s great for families, you can expect educational signage and a newly groomed trail that feels safe and easy to walk on but fully immersed in the wetlands nature. Look out for the bear claw marks on some of the trees! With accessibility for all visitors, this is one of the best mellow outdoor things to do in Whitefish. It’s also free to access.
There’s also skiing of course, in the wintertime. Whitefish Mountain Resort is the biggest draw. In the summer you can also seek out mountain biking, hiking, and zip-lining here.
Golfing, rock climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and even skydiving are all ways to get out into the Great Outdoors in and around Whitefish, depending on the weather and your personal thirst for and/or comfort level with adventure.
Side note: if it’s raining, or you don’t want to be outside, check out the Whitefish Theatre Company. They put on excellent productions!
The famous Going-to-the-Sun Road is a fantastic way to easily see many of the highlights of the park. Parts of the path are open year-round, but you will want to plan and time your visit based on who the road is open to. At times it’s open to just bikers (as it was during my visit,) and not to motorized vehicles. This is largely dependent on the weather conditions, so be sure to check their website for updates ahead of your trip. Here’s a general overview of the seasonal access in the park:
Open Year-Round: The road from West Glacier to Lake McDonald Lodge
Open to Bikes and Pedestrians Only: Shoulder season (usually May/October)
Open to Cars: Summer (June-Aug/Sept.)
You can rent a car and drive on the road during the summer months. If you’re hiking or biking, you can grab the Whitefish Shuttle from town. They go both to Glacier National Park and to the Whitefish Trailheads mentioned above.
I recommend taking advantage of the small period when the Going-to-the-Sun Road is open to bikes and pedestrians only. Although you’ll have to power your own transportation, you can see more of the park in the same amount of time. While it’s possible you may encounter less-than-favorable weather, you’ll avoid most of the crowds. (Highly recommended.)
You can check out current information, as well as the dates of past openings and closings, on the official Glacier National Park Going-to-the-Sun information page.
And if you’re looking for a guide specific to Glacier National Park (as well as Banff and Jasper) I recommend this one.
I was able to visit two fantastic local beer spots — Great Northern Brewery and Bonsai Brewing Project — with the help of this great tour (and no need to worry about drinking and driving!)
I loved the cocktails I tasted from this local spirits producer. You can visit their distillery, which uses local and organic botanicals, and try their seasonal cocktail menu, which reflects the changing seasons of Glacier County.
I loved the class I took with Yoga Hive Montana, which has locations in downtown Whitefish and nearby Kalispell. Even better are their yoga classes at Whitefish Lodge (if offered.) You can do yoga with a view of the lake and a mimosa afterward!
I live for my Himalayan salt lamp at home, so it was a treat to experience the new SaltBox in downtown Whitefish. You can relax in their salt rooms, in which microparticles of salt enable dry salt therapy that can help with breathing, skin, sleep, and overall wellness. They also have an infrared sauna (perfect for cold days or after long hikes.)
I’ve got an upcoming post with more details about where to eat in Whitefish.
For now, restaurant highlights include:
Whitefish, MT’s closest airport is Glacier Park International, which is a short 15-minute drive to downtown. Several direct flights are available (although some are seasonal,) ranging from Seattle and Denver to Los Angeles and Atlanta. For my Bay Area folks, there is seasonal direct service from OAK on Allegiant, but the trip from SFO with a quick stop in Denver is fine, too. The aforementioned Whitefish Shuttle does airport drop-offs/pick-ups to get you into town. If you fancy taking the train, Amtrak has a station right in the heart of Whitefish. Or, I hear the drive into town (from nearby states) is spectacular!
The well-established Lodge at Whitefish Lake is popular and so lovely, but so are many of the smaller B&Bs and apartments in town. Here are the best of them:
Whether you’re planning a trip and looking for things to do in Whitefish MT or you’re now thinking about going…I hope this sets you up to experience the best of the area! Let me know if I can help with any further questions before or during your trip.
*My trip was made possible with the help of Explore Whitefish, but all opinions and recommendations are completely my own.
Cheers!
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]]>The post The Prettiest Places to Visit in the South of France appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>I’m not the first traveler to yearn for Provence. Its many French villages and hill towns are the best places to visit in the South of France. Not to mention its stone castles, hillside olive groves, sidewalk cafes, and lavender fields, all of which are the places travel dreams are made of.
Southern France’s cities are also lively and lovely; I particularly love the areas around Marseille and Nice. Yet it’s the small towns in France that really give you that Provencal glow, the feeling of soft, golden light carried by a faint breeze. It’s the kind that makes you want to skip through fields, or linger on a terrace amongst the streets with the wafting air of fresh pastries.
If you’re planning a trip, I hope you’ll make Provence and its villages part of your stay. Here are the best places to visit in the South of France, designed for a week (or so) depending on how much exploring versus relaxing you want to do.
I recommend choosing a base depending on where you want to focus your time. All of the small French towns in this region are within a day’s driving distance, but I personally recommend minimizing your driving time (although the drives are quite scenic!) Most recently I focused on the Luberon, and it was my favorite part of Provence to date.
For a home base, I’d choose from Avignon (my personal favorite,) Aix-en-Provence (a little larger French town further south,) or Cassis, if you want to be on the coast. All three towns have that French charm and relaxed Provence feel and are well-located for visiting the rest of the area.
You could also stay in the smaller villages listed below, but I personally like to stay centrally in a bigger area and visit these villages by day.
Set on the banks of the Rhône River and endlessly charming, Avignon is a wonderful medieval city that still feels like a small village. There are many great places to dine and sip, streets to wander, and sights to see.
Avignon is a great place to stay, and it’s well-connected by train (especially if you’re coming from Paris.) I recommend exploring the city center and its open squares, markets, and cafes. Be sure to check out the lively Rue des Teinturiers for some of the most beautiful architecture and best restaurants.
A little-known fact: Avignon was once the seat of the Catholic Pope (in the 14th century,) before returning its hub to the Vatican. You can visit the Palais des Papes in the city center to learn more.
From Avignon, you can easily visit the neighboring towns below. Each has a distinct beauty and landscape, so they all are worth seeing if you have the time!
Gordes might just be the prettiest hilltop village in France.
I loved driving here to explore the cobblestone streets for the day and have lunch. I also recommend having a glass of rosé or a cocktail on the terrace of La Bastide de Gordes, which has one of the best views in town.
Don’t miss the beautiful Senenque Abbey, well-photographed for its surrounding lavender fields.
Roussillon is another hilltop village with a distinct feature — its coloring. Built on and around large ochre deposits, the town’s buildings have a red-orange tint from all the clay.
Aside from checking out the village, you can walk the nature trails amongst the ochre cliffs.
A quick stop on your way back to Avignon, L’Isle sur la Sorgue is best known for its antique shops and markets. The ‘island’ town got its name from the canals running through it.
The largest of the antique markets takes place on Sunday morning – prepare to arrive early if you are driving and will need parking.
A little farther south from Avignon is this wonderful Provencal town. I thoroughly enjoyed dining (and even doing a little shopping) here. There is a truly delightful chocolate shop called Joël Durand that is a must.
Similar to Gordes, this tiny village on top of a bed of rock is frequently noted as one of France’s most beautiful towns. There are only 22 residents atop the rock, but there are winding cobblestone streets and panoramic views for the visitor.
I stayed in Arles on one of my first visits to Provence and enjoyed the market, Roman amphitheater, and galleries. If you recognize Arles, it may be because Van Gogh lived here and painted some of his most iconic works of the town.
Aix is known for its 1,000 fountains, its wide boulevards and Cours Mirabeau, and sidewalk cafes. It has captured the hearts of artists, writers, and intellectuals who have flocked to the town for centuries.
A seaside town on the Mediterranean coast, Cassis is just as romantic as it sounds. It’s a great village to see not far from Marseille. Try some fresh seafood at one of the cafes.
Many visitors to Provence seem to miss these coastal coves and inlets, but they are part of one of the country’s most beautiful national parks. You can opt either to hike or boat alongside the cliffs, stopping to rest at a beach or climbing a hill for some heartstopping ocean views. You can also walk the path from Cassis to the Calanque d’En-Vau, one of the most picturesque.
For more of the best South of France destinations, check out:
And for more: Provence reading.
Bon voyage mes amis!
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]]>The post Where to Stay in Sicily appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>(And why where you stay in Sicily for your holiday makes a difference.)
When it comes to travel, I always believe we should follow the inklings that draw us to a place. And for years I felt the pull to Sicily.
So I did what I always do next…I asked around about where I should stay. Yet the more I asked my fellow travelers if they had been to the island, the more I realized very few people seem to make it to Sicily. The area is not nearly as popular as the main cities and sights in the rest of Italy. (Of course, this turned out to be one of the main reasons I loved it so much.)
Those who had gone commented that it wasn’t the most solo travel-friendly spot, if for no other reason than it’s best traversed in a car and the journey is an adventure best made with a co-pilot. So, armed with a cheap flight to Rome and said travel partner in tow, I finally made it to Sicily this year.
After deciding to go, the next call I had to make was where to call my home base for the majority of the trip. I envisioned staying on the beach or the cliffs overlooking the ocean — and while I did that too (Cefalu!) the most memorable part of my time in Sicily was to be found elsewhere.
Many travelers who have felt the siren call (or simply, the persistent urging of their friends who have been,) take to the major cities and beaches of Sicily. The area of Sicily that stuck with me most, however, doesn’t have either of those things.
The Val di Noto, located on the southeast part of the island, was mostly destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century. What was rebuilt still stands today as one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in the world.
What does this mean for the visitor today? Wide boulevards, hillside towns, church facades, and narrow alleys — often in stone and primarily built into their natural surroundings. Exploring the towns of the Val di Noto feels a bit like wandering in a maze — if that maze happened to be lined with delightful trattorias, wine bars, and pastry shops.
I chose to base myself in Modica, which is best known for its artisan chocolate made from a recipe that dates back to the Aztecs. Much as I was curious to try the chocolate (it is quite spectacular) I was most excited to call the Residenza Hortus home for a few days.
What: Residenza Hortus, an artist-renovated three-bedroom historic home
Where: Right off the Piazza di San Giorgio in the heart of Modica, Sicily
When: Year-round, though summers bring more people to the area
Who: 2-6 people
How Much: from €210 to €500 per night
A friend had directed me to the collection of artist homes called Anime a Sud or ‘soul of the south.’ Designed by Italian artist Luca Giannini, I loved both his passion for the project and the intention and meaning behind each choice in the home.
The first thing I noticed upon entering the space each day was how light and airy the entire home is. Each of the bedrooms represents a different element, so you’ve got a ‘fire’ room with a fireplace built into the wall, an ‘air’ room that opens out onto the terrace, and a ‘water’ room with an elegant bathtub for a headboard (a hotel first as far as I know.) Each has custom-carved tile and design touches that subtly convey the theme. All of this lends itself to an ambiance of peace and natural flow in the house.
Off of the open kitchen is a beautiful recovered iron staircase, which leads down to a stone wine cellar filled with Sicilian wines. Most of the house is made of stone, so you get a sense of grounding and quiet as you relax in each of the rooms. Every detail honors the story of the origins of the property and the story of the local area, each exquisite material chosen deliberately.
As I learned more about the Residenza Hortus’s reconstruction, it made even more sense why I felt so connected to this special place:
The architectural project first focused on the ‘soul of the place,’ in order to catch the basic field lines and the specific energetic condensations and emotions which had stratified in that place across the time, and that had slowly turned into a sort of thin grid made of balances and harmonies which necessarily needed to be respected during the restoration works.”
Luca Giannini, artist and founder
Perhaps the best part of the home is the large terrace, which sits surrounded by Sicilian orange and pomegranate trees and beneath the tops of the San Giorgio church. There’s a small heated pool that’s great for winding down after a day of exploring. The terrace is a calm oasis that feels both modern and centuries old, and entirely private and yet engaged with the heritage of Modica. Its garden, of course, represents the earth element in the home.
The excellent and kind local staff is on hand not only to introduce you to the area and give tips, but also to arrange activities and private meals on the terrace, which we had the pleasure of experiencing one slow morning. There truly is a balance of feeling like you’re in a personal home — but with the amenities of a boutique hotel.
From Modica, it’s easy to explore the neighboring Baroque towns of Noto, Ragusa, Siracusa, Caltagirone, and Scicli. (I recommend them all!) Each feels unique in its own way, and each has excellent food and unforgettable views. All make great day trips from the Residenza Hortus (unless, like me, you are tempted just to stay in and nearby the house.) I was grateful to learn more about the region and its food in the Sicily chapter of this incredible book about Italy’s culinary culture.
There is a lot to see even walking distance up and down the hill from Hortus (don’t miss the chocolate, really!) You can also explore the Southeastern beaches or Catania and Mount Etna if you haven’t already. All of the towns (including Catania) comprise the UNESCO World Heritage status given to the Val di Noto, so it feels cohesive to set out to explore them all.
Anime a Sud also renovated a smaller apartment in Modica called Casa Kimya, plus a perfectly located space in Siracusa. Like Residenza Hortus, both tell a story that makes you feel like uniquely immersed in Southern Sicily. I can’t wait to go back to experience them all.
Residenza Hortus was one of the most personally restorative and deeply thoughtful places I’ve had the pleasure of staying in. It’s a comfortable and stylish home, yes — but it’s also a living, breathing work of art that is more than a place to rest your head at night. The entire space speaks to you of this incredible region’s past, present, and hopefully, future.
My stay at Residenza Hortus was kindly hosted by the owner. However, all opinions (and photographs) are strictly my own.
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]]>The post Ten Must-Visit European Capitals appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>With all there is to see to this world, I still find myself drawn back to European capital cities over and over again.
In fact, I consider it a high point in my travel life whenever I’m able to visit my top four (all European capitals in the same year Rome >> Barcelona >> Paris >> London; it’s only happened twice, but it just happened over the past year!)
Not long ago it was a huge deal — both the time and money investment — to book a ticket to Europe from elsewhere. As it becomes cheaper and cheaper to fly across the pond (I flew to Rome from SFO last month for under $300 whaaat,) I began reflecting on my favorite European capitals to visit. I’ve listed them below — with the top five being classics many of us know and love, and the latter five being smaller capitals that have really captured my heart as well.
Ah, Paris. What can I possibly write that would do the City of Light justice?
Paris makes me feel like a different person, in the best possible way. This grand city teaches so many of us how to linger longingly over meals, how to appreciate art whether on a street corner or on a museum wall, how to love being alone.
More has been written on the many appeals of Paris than perhaps any other city in the world. There’s a reason for that…don’t miss it.
Reasons to Go:
Top Paris Experiences:
Stay: Cobblestone Paris, or Hotel Verneuil (recently remodeled and in my very favorite part of Paris.)
Read more: why you should rent an apartment when staying in Paris. And if you’re interested in the best skincare on the planet, what to buy at the French pharmacy.
A truly global city that is delightfully full of British history and charm, London is both modern and classic at once. The sheer range of experiences — you can go from afternoon tea at the Ritz to curry and street art in East London and back — make this one of the world’s most exciting cities to be in, period.
If I had to choose just one city on Earth to live in (besides my current one,) it would be London. The variety of people, lifestyles, events, (and most definitely the British humor,) continues to pull me in time after time.
Reasons to Go:
Top London Experiences
Stay: The Hoxton
Read more:London itinerary, where to eat in London, and where to stay in London, and going beyond London.
Oh, the Eternal City. It only took six visits for me to fall in love.
Like many travelers, Rome was right at the top of the places I most wanted to see when I first began discovering Europe. I pictured standing in awe in front of ancient monuments, seeing cute Vespas parked against colored walls, and drinking espresso leisurely on terraces.
Rome is all of these favorite things I hoped for — and more. Still, the crowds and selfie snappers (and if summer, heat) can bring the enjoyment level down for many. I recommend waking up early and/or investing in skip-the-line tickets for major sights. Remove the modern day tourist headaches and you’ll skip right to the many fascinating layers of Rome that make it, well, eternal; and one of the most special places on the planet.
Reasons to Go:
Top Rome Experiences:
Stay: Tree Charme (Trastevere)
Read more: How to Fall in Rome or check out the blog of my good friend Natalie, a Rome resident and author of An American in Rome.
Also see: Rome in Black and White and watch for forthcoming posts from my most recent visit.
I’ll admit I have a soft spot for Barcelona. I lived with a family there as a student abroad, and had some of the most formative and memorable months of my life in the city.
Admittedly, it’s not the capital of Spain — but it is the capital of Catalonia, and my preference as the top city to visit in Spain (I do like Madrid, too!) Even though the city is undergoing some major changes at the hand of its popularity and still rising tourism, Barcelona is compelling and lovely and artful in a way that few other cities in the world are.
Reasons to Go:
Top Barcelona Sights
Stay: The One Barcelona
See also: Barcelona in Black and White
I was told many times that I probably wouldn’t like Athens, so I wasn’t expecting much. As beautiful as the Greek Islands are, I ended up extending my stay here to immerse myself further in the city — which is much more than just the Acropolis and the departure point to Santorini. Make sure that you make a point of spending at least a few days getting to know the Greek capital. (I think you’ll fall in love, too!)
Reasons to Go:
Top Athens Experiences:
Stay: A is for Athens (fantastic rooftop bar here too!)
Lisbon is another European city I didn’t expect to love as much as I did. Although the good word is spreading, Lisbon remains affordable and relatively non-touristy compared to many of the other destinations on this list. It’s full of all the top draws to Europe — architecture, culture, and cuisine — without many of the downsides (costs, crowds, catering to visitors.)
Reasons to Go:
Top Experiences in Lisbon:
Stay: The Lisboans Apartment
Of all the European capital cities I’ve visited, Ljubljana was perhaps the biggest surprise. The first word that comes to mind when I think of it is…lovely. It’s just lovely there.
Perhaps some of it has to do with the fact that the city center is mostly pedestrianized, or that the sidewalk cafes spill out onto terraces, coinciding with long walks along the riverfront shaded by trees. Or perhaps it’s just that I hadn’t heard much about Ljubljana so I wasn’t expecting much. Regardless, this is one European capital city to move to the top of your list.
Reasons to Go:
Top Ljubljana Experiences:
Stay: Adora Hotel
Read more: European Experiences for the Traveler Who Has “Done” Europe
Amsterdam and I are overdue for some more time together, but the city made a mark on me when I visited over ten years ago. From cruising its canals to biking to and from its cafes, Amsterdam seems to leave a lasting impression on many. Go with an open mind, for you will be met with many!
Reasons to Go:
Top Amsterdam Experiences:
Stay: Hotel TwentySeven
Zagreb, the underrated capital of Croatia, was yet another pleasant surprise as a traveler. Like many of the cities on this list, it’s great for cafes, for art, for strolling. People often skip or overlook this great city in favor of Croatia’s coastline and the historic/Instagrammable Dubrovnik — but you definitely should not.
Reasons to Go:
Top Zagreb Experiences:
Stay: Hotel Esplanade
Read more: Road Tripping Croatia
When I close my eyes and picture Dublin, I can almost feel the pint glass in my hand and hear the sweet sound of live Irish music. As the Irish capital, Dublin is a wonderful introduction to the country and its friendly culture. From historic sites to stunning parks to the insides of pubs, Dublin is endlessly charming and worth visiting over and over.
Reasons to Go:
Top Dublin Experiences
Stay: Merrion Hotel
Read more: Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin
So that’s my list! Did I miss anything?
I’ll put together some favorite Asia and U.S. capital cities list together soon, and I’m looking forward to hearing about which places you love most.
Some others I’d like to see, or see again, soon include:
What’s the best European city you’ve been to? Would love to know your favorites!
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]]>The post I Didn’t Do It For The ‘Gram appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>I read last week that 40% of travelers under 30 are prioritizing a place’s “Instagrammability” when making trip decisions. This means that a growing amount of people are making decisions to see the world through the lens of what is photogenic or trendy.
The thought of this upsets me deeply — mostly because traveling the world has so, so much more to offer than a backdrop for your next social post. The majority of my favorite memories from the road have no photo which accompanies them. The best moments and lessons from the road are often not camera-ready.
As such I’ve been doing some extra thinking about how travel has changed with the invent of social media — both for me and collectively as a whole.
I know a girl whose one goal was to visit Rome
– Drake, Emotionless
Then she finally got to Rome
And all she did was post pictures for people at home
‘Cause all that mattered was impressin’ everybody she’s known
First, a caveat: I myself feel a distinctly different level of torn about all this, as I consider at least some capturing and staging of the travel experience to be part of my job (albeit, a sometimes conflicting one.) I do not judge anyone who earns their living from travel photography or through working with brands on Instagram for working hard to ‘get the shot.’ I do, however, believe we need to look at the wider effects ‘pretty picture pervasiveness’ has on the travel experience — perhaps even more worth considering if this is your profession.
Here are a few of the complicated thoughts about social media and travel that I am currently exploring:
The first issue: Going where others have gone, as opposed to following our own instincts about places we are drawn to. One of the most beautiful things about a journey is stumbling down your own winding path — not knowing not only where it will lead but if it’s even been tread before. You honor your unique self when you take into account what you specifically seek from travel. The world is wide, and we limit ourselves if we only take inspiration from someone else’s projected images rather than allowing ourselves to be drawn even inexplicably to a place.
For instance, with the rise of Instagram I began to research photography spots before going on a trip. After some thought, I now prefer to discover the moments I want to capture with my camera as I go. If I do consult what may perform well, based on what others have shared, it’s only when I’m deciding what to post after the trip is over.
Otherwise I lose one of the most valuable things about traveling — experiencing something from my own perspective — for the first time, with an open mind and a blank slate.
Much of what we see on Instagram these days is a copycat of someone else’s angle, pose, or perspective. Originality just doesn’t seem to be valued anymore. There seem to be only a few series of photographs that everyone who is ‘doing it for the ‘gram’ replicates over and over. Not only does this restrict your own creativity and fun with a camera, think about how it may be impacting the entirety of your travel experience.
Take back your originality.
The second issue: traveling with ego and self-centeredness leading the way, instead of the spirit and openness to others. Travel is one of the most incredible gifts we can give to ourselves, but I really believe that travel (and life, but hey that’s another topic) should not be just about you. It is about the places that change you, the cultures you discover, the people you meet. What you gain personally from travel is only through what you learn about yourself through the experience of interacting with a place and the people in it.
This is not even to touch upon the thought about where/when it is or is not acceptable to bring a camera at all.
It is well known and accepted that aside from National Geographic, photographs of the people we meet or the homes we’re invited into, the conversations we share cramped around a fire or in a hostel dorm instead of in a curated space…they never get as many ‘likes’ as someone in the perfect (or barely there) outfit. Why is this?
The effects of this kind of social reinforcement may be subtle. I recently realized that not only am I no longer sharing these types of photos…I’m not even taking them.
Why are we leaving the most important part of the travel experience out of the picture?” (Literally.)
The goal of travel (for me) is to try on new ways of living, to lose ourselves a bit as we inhabit new worlds. We simply cannot do this to the same degree if our main objective is to snap the perfect photo of ourselves there.
The third issue: Overcrowding, overtourism, and the effects on destinations, nature, and cultures.
From Barcelona to Iceland, from Thailand’s Maya Bay to sunsets on Santorini…I find myself already becoming the old woman who hearkens back to “in my time…it wasn’t like this” or resigns and sighs, “I remember when this place was different.” Destinations around the globe are staging interventions to keep floods of tourists, who are often disrespectful, from harming natural or historical sites or even driving out local culture.
If you sit somewhere like Park Guell, Machu Picchu, or even the Eiffel Tower and watch visitors…do you think you’d find more people being disrespectful because they’re taking in the moment — or because they’re trying to get a selfie that proves they were there?
I appreciate that travel has become more accessible, but I often miss the days when spots that have become popularized through social media were more like a unique, immersive experience and less like a theme park.
Outside of our individual encounters with places, it breaks my heart to hear entire cultural practices being held together purely as an opportunity for tourists to ‘get the shot.’ Take the famous Sri Lankan fisherman fishing on stilts…after having seen photos of them on social media, I had hoped to see them with my own eyes as I traveled along there coast there. We did stop once we saw the stilts in the water…only to find out that no one actually fishes that way anymore. (But hey, they’d be happy to pose for a photo on them for a fee.)
I respect anyone’s wishes for a photo to document their experience…I just wish people would have the same respect for others’ experience in that moment. (Do not get me started on drones and selfie sticks.) We all need to work on being aware of the others around us — both the locals and our fellow travelers. And when we’re documenting an activity, meal, or experience to be shared, it is important that it’s accurately represented.
I know a girl that saves pictures from places she’s flown
To post later and make it look like she still on the go
How did we get here? It’s my belief that Instagram has effectively nixed the separation between work and personal for all sides of the platform.
As consumers, we absorb what really may be more of someone’s work to be a window into their personal lives. We inherently accept and compare someone projecting their best life as them living their best life. More often than not these days…that includes travel. Let us not take that as the norm. Don’t settle for crafting any part of your life based on what is often so shallow.
On the other side, as creators, we are often unable to separate the response to our work as the response to our own self worth. This can be even more true when your “personal brand” is more personal than a brand. How can we be vulnerable enough to share a more well-rounded depiction of a trip, even when the numbers next to it may appear less than enthusiastic?
The line between media that is real and true and media that is staged and strategic has never been more blurred.
Let me be clear: there are some truly beautiful, heartfelt, and artful images and words shared on Instagram. It’s what keeps me on the platform.
But I urge us all not to confuse fantasy travel with reality. The real thing, with all its uncomfortable bus rides, long days, language barriers, sweaty moments, and jet lag….is SO good.
So, where do we go from here? I’m not so sure. But I think it boils down to being honest with ourselves about our intent when sharing travel images and stories. We cannot singlehandedly control the use of social media or fight the world’s obsession with instant gratification, but we can look more closely our own behavior and voices.
Are we out there seeing the whole world to wholeheartedly experience it, with our own eyes…or are we choosing only to see and share select pieces of it in order to validate ourselves through the eyes of others?
Let’s pay more attention to the stories we consume, the stories we tell, the stories we live.
I’m not perfect at this. I still follow writers, photographers, and brands that may not be showing up fully in this way. I bring my tripod because pictures with me in them do better, and I find myself thinking “oh, this would do well on Instagram!” But I’m no longer participating in all of it in default mode. And I’m doing my best to allow myself to feel ok when my life and my trips don’t fit this mold of online success.
Travel can be a backdrop in which you pose in front of, a style you copy to get a higher number by that ‘heart’ on your post, added to your timeline like a trophy…or it can be one of the most enriching, meaningful, and deeply personal journeys of your life.
You don’t need a camera, or an online following, to experience the latter.
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]]>The post Where to Eat in Kauai appeared first on Part-Time Traveler.
]]>I grew up visiting the Big Island with my family on an annual basis, so my exploration of Kauai is relatively fresh. Although the Big Island will always have my heart, Kauai has quickly become my favorite Hawaiian island to visit. A large part of that is, (you guessed it,) the food!
This being my second trip to Kauai (you may have seen my Kauai itinerary) I had the chance to go a little more in-depth exploring different parts of the island (and its best restaurants.) I also had the chance to stay with locals (shoutout to the Miyashiro family!) who graciously took my friend and I on the best food tour of Kauai imaginable.
So without further ado, I present…the best Kauai restaurants list that my trusty taste buds can bring you.
Aloha and bon appetit!
I’ll begin with my overall favorite Kauai food discoveries (including food trucks!) I’ve then broken down the best restaurants by area, knowing that you will likely be staying in one part of the island and will explore others while driving around.
Where to Eat in Kauai, Hawaii
Best Kauai Restaurants
Updated April 2023
Let’s begin with some local favorites…
One of the struggles for me with dining in anywhere in Hawaii is finding local food that does not cater to tourists. Hawaiian cuisine that locals eat often differs from the needs and tastes of visitors, even when local ingredients are utilized.
Dishes like saimin, loco moco, or even hidden fresh poke stalls may not be at top of every traveler’s food list but they’re the heart and soul of Hawaii (and so you should try them!)
Incidentally, the following local spots are now my favorite places to eat in Kauai. You’ll find them throughout the island, but they’re all worth going out of your way for if food is a priority for your visit.
Don’t miss this spot on your way to or from the airport! Comfort food at its finest and most local. I recommend the noodle soups (especially the oxtail) but the pancakes and loco moco are also beloved here.
I ate here both for breakfast and dinner and could hardly believe how great their food was. It appears as you would expect a breakfast spot to, so I was blown away by the flavor and quality of the dinner dishes. Everything is made locally and served with love. One of the best places to eat in Kauai, if you ask me. Convenient if you’re driving to Waimea Canyon (though save room for Island Taco – listed below!)
Some of the best fresh fish I’ve had in Hawaii, and a great place to stop before or after a visit to the Kilauea lighthouse (a picturesque stop!)
Thin, crispy, and plenty local, these taro chips from a local farm can be purchased in the best way possible — from a small house just off the road. You never know quite if the guy who sells them is going to be there are not, but that’s part of the experience. Read more of the story, or just take my word for it and pick up this delectable snack.
Again, fresh off of a lengthy trip to Japan I wasn’t sure if I was going to appreciate this place fully but it was one of the best meals I’ve had in Hawaii. It’s exactly as delightful as it sounds — as if you had a Japanese grandmother cooking for you. The food is all great, and it’s especially fun on a Friday night (art night) and because it’s BYOB.
Or simply…create your own beach picnic! Might I suggest Salt Pond Beach Park for eating it?
Wow wow wow. Don’t overlook Hawaii’s food trucks, people. I still dream about this meal.
The truck serves sushi rolls (which are sandwich-sized) and large portions that make it one of the better value meals on the island. As I suspected, the ahi roll was a favorite…surprisingly, the Kauai beef roll was even better!
A lovely little poke spot located in the main shopping center of Hanalei. Though a bit on the pricey side, it’s delicious and fresh. Cash only.
Porky’s continues to receive awards for the best food truck, and that’s because it is that good. You’ll find hot dogs and sausages topped with the likes of grilled onions, pineapple relish, and most importantly, more pork.
A Mexican food truck whose octopus tacos spoke to me…and did not disappoint! Lots of other great classic taco menu options, too.
The only organic shave ice on Kauai and the cutest little food truck ever, they visit several locations but I happened to find them at Warehouse 3540 – which is a wonderful local collection of boutique shops and art.
Higher-end, tapas-style eats from a chef who moved from San Francisco, it’s the go-to for special occasions. Their menu is killer and they serve arguably the best food on the north shore of Kauai. Reserve in advance if you can. Also, check out their newer sister restaurant (also in Hanalei) — it’s called Ama.
This spot is located in the main Hanalei shopping center and looks like the last place you might choose to eat, but trust me on this. Get the chili pepper chicken and don’t let the humble exterior fool you…this place is incredibly delicious. Macnut pancakes and chocolate haupia pie are also favorites. (Breakfast, lunch, and snacks only – closes at 3pm.)
I was tipped off at my last visit by a friend to stop into their fresh fish + seafood market in the back. SO GOOD. Part restaurant, part sushi bar, part fish market, I love to take a container of poke to-go and eat it outside by the river nearby. It’s also a great place to pick up quality fish to prepare yourself if you have a kitchen where you’re staying.
As listed above, this is a great place to go if you want to dine with locals and enjoy some of the best cheap eats in Kauai. I recommend the noodle soups (especially the oxtail) but the pancakes and loco moco are also beloved here. A great stop before or after you are headed to the airport!
If you haven’t heard of saimin (I hadn’t,) it’s like a Hawaiian twist on ramen. This is considered to be the best local hole-in-the-wall to try it. Although it’s not my favorite noodle soup of all time, it makes for a mighty fine meal. Their lilikoi pie is the highlight for me!
A fantastic microbrewery with local vibes, it’s a friendly place to sample a variety of beers. They have some food options, too, though many would go across the road to grab something from a food truck and bring it in.
I first dined at Merriman’s on the Big Island, and learned the story of chef Peter Merriman and his influence on bringing local ingredients and Hawaiian regional cuisine to the forefront of the food scene. He’s since expanded his presence (you can find one of his restaurants on each of the major islands.) It’s not inexpensive, but it supports local growers and farmers and will be some of the freshest and best food you can eat.
Beach House is somewhat of a Poipu institution, and that’s mostly for the sunset views — which are some of the best on the island. I can’t say no to their macadamia nut-crusted fish.
Fantastically fresh and has some of the best poke I’ve had anywhere in Hawaii. The ahi and ono bowl is a must.
There is also an outpost of Puka Dog located in Poipu, and Da Crack is worth visiting if you are craving great Mexican food (because for me, that is always.)
If I could only ever eat at one place in Kauai, this would be it. It’s one of those must-eats in Kauai for me. I made the locals who were showing me around stop here, because I couldn’t handle passing by without stopping in. It’s that good. My top picks are the Kalua pork and the mahi-mahi.
If you’re hungry, don’t miss Kapa’a Food Trucks — including Wailua Shave Ice plus Porky’s and El Rey del Mar as listed above! I always stop here to eat when passing through. It’s consistently some of the best food in Kauai.
This is a solid local spot for deli-style meals, including poke bowls and a Hawaiian plate lunch (which you have got to try at least once!) Casual Hawaiian-style street food.
Perhaps it was me coming off of three weeks in Japan, but I was totally charmed by this place. It had recently been opened by a woman from Japan and ranges from matcha tea beverages to sweet treats flavored with matcha and red bean. Get your matcha on!
I haven’t been, but I’m always curious (for each of the Hawaiian islands) if there are resort restaurants with food or ambiance that make it worth the price tag. This is the most recommended place to me, with a tasting menu, drinks, and desserts worth splurging on.
If you’re looking to enjoy Japanese food while vacationing in Kauai, this is the spot. The concept is Kauai kaiseki, which if you’ve ever had kaiseki before you know you’re in for a treat. It’s a traditional multi-course meal using the freshest local ingredients, and as such Aina works with local farms to bring the best-tasting local produce to the menu. Note that it’s dinner only and served Thursday to Sunday. Reservations required.
That’s it for now, friends! If you need more information, check out my Kauai itinerary or get your hands on this guidebook (the best I know of.) I hope to be best soon to continue taste-testing in this paradise. For now, please do leave me a comment with your favorite Kauai restaurant finds.
Mahalo for reading, and enjoy Kauai! <3
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]]>Both of us write about travel for a living, so as we planned our first retreat we considered spots around the globe for its location. We’re also two Northern California ladies living in San Francisco, though — and we realized that the beauty within a few hours drive from SF warranted staying closer to home.
Hopping in the car from SF, Carmel is just a two-hour drive from the city — and when you get there, you get a whole new vibe.
Dark green cypress trees frame deep blues and turquoises of the clear sea. Waves crash powerfully along the rugged California coastline. Colorful tiles line stairwells end at art galleries, garden passageways, and wine tasting rooms. Homes and shops feel a bit like they’ve been plucked out of a European fairytale.
Although I tend not to overuse the word ‘charming’ to describe a place, it’s the exact word that best suits Carmel-by-the-Sea.
I grew up visiting the coast from Monterey to Carmel often as a child. Still, we would need to thoroughly research the area and intimately get to know Carmel to host a group there in the way we wanted.
So now, I present…my heavily researched and double-triple-checked guide to Carmel, California — an easy day or (ideally) weekend trip from San Francisco. It’s one of my top picks for a getaway from the city.
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Without traffic, it takes just over two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey and Carmel. For every recent trip, however, we left San Francisco just before 6 am to beat all the traffic. Because you drive through the city and down past San Jose, there can be several slowdowns. I’d recommend driving in off-peak hours if you can — even if you’re just driving from the SFO airport.
If you have the time, Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove or Pebble Beach (near Monterey) are a few other stops to consider. Going from San Francisco to Carmel via Highway 1 is another slightly slower, but more scenic option that winds around the coastline.
And then when you arrive? Here’s what you need to know:
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Walking along Ocean Avenue will take you past most of the town’s highlights. Be sure to duck into alleyways and passages that often lead to patios and gardens. (The Thomas Kinkade Gallery side door leads to one of the best!) Check out the Tuck Box and Cottage of Sweets to see some of the most fairytale-esque spots.
I especially love the walk to China Cove, where you will see not only beautiful landscapes but also dozens of cute, chubby seals chilling on the beach below. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife — it’s not uncommon to see sea otters, seals, native birds, even whales (December to May.)
Carmel Beach at the edge of town (and no more than a few blocks from everything) is one of the most beautiful beaches in California to me. Its soft, white sands and deep blue waters, often accompanied by impressive waves, make this a favorite spot for many. Walk or bike on the bluffs above, check out the oceanfront cottages as you go, and sit and relax on the sand if the weather allows.
The California Missions are some of the most beautiful and important parts of our state’s history. (Ask anyone who grew up here which one they did a report on in grade school!) Mission Carmel is one of the most beautiful, and most traditionally restored, of the 21 missions across the state.
As adorable as the town of Carmel is, there is nothing better to me than a relaxed drive down the coastline just outside of it. Drive for just thirty minutes south and you can see some of the incredible scenery of California’s central coast. The 17 Mile Drive, while stunning, requires you to pay to enter ($9.50.) It’s worth doing at least once, but to me, there’s nothing more freeing or appealing than just taking off down the winding coastline.
These are my favorite places to grab a bite in Carmel-by-the-Sea (after several visits.)
Read more about the Best Restaurants in Carmel << in this post!
Vineyard Visit
When we began scouting spaces in June last year, we knew we wanted to find and highlight some of the great (and low-key!) wine they’re making in Carmel Valley.
As soon as we stepped into the magical place that is Folktale Winery, we stopped the search. Their property is stunning, especially if you love modern design meets French chateau meets greenhouse space!
To us, the atmosphere is so special (and reflects Carmel so much,) and the food and wine was great (try their sparkling rosé!) that short of spending the whole weekend in Carmel Valley, this one winery will more than suit your needs. There are tons of tasting rooms in town, but Folktale Winery is a short 10-15 minutes away by car and worth visiting.
Bernadus and Georgis Winery were the other two that came highly recommended if you want to add to your wine tour of Carmel Valley during your stay.
What I love most about Hotel Carmel isn’t just its size (a handful of rooms,) its location (right where you can walk to everything without being in a busy section of town,) or its beautiful design, but just how much staying there feels like home to me. Everything from a lobby that feels like a living room to a self-serve breakfast of bagels with fresh homemade strawberry cream cheese to the local wines served fireside makes me feel both comfortable and like I’m giving myself a little splurge. It remains my top hotel choice for Carmel.
La Playa is the largest, more beachfront sister property of Hotel Carmel. It’s got a little bit more of a classic Carmel resort (rather than fresh and trendy) vibe, yet it’s similarly comfortable with large fireplaces, a friendly staff, and a great patio. Check out La Playa to see if it’s more your style…also highly recommended!
If you’re looking for a friendly and budget-friendly place to stay right in the heart of town, you can do no better than the pink-colored Hofsas House.
The family-owned property has a historic past but retains its hospitality and warmth today. Actual warmth — via the dry sauna and heated pool on site or the in-room fireplace if you’re lucky — is a huge bonus on a chilly coastal day. You’ll be welcomed with friendly service, free breakfast (with fresh local pastries!), free parking, large room size, and many more amenities that make this a personalized and all-around lovely base in Carmel. Ask about ocean view room availability.
There’s so much around Carmel-by-the-Sea that’s worth seeing. Here are a few spots you can add to your Carmel vacation if you’re continuing down the coast.
Enjoy the Monterey Bay Aquarium (my forever favorite,) Cannery Row, scuba diving, whale watching, and more.
It takes about two hours to drive from San Francisco to Monterey, whereas Monterey to Carmel takes only 10-12 minutes. Even if my visit is just to Carmel, I make a point to stop at Captain + Stoker, an excellent coffee shop in Monterey. I also loved Alvarado Street Brewery.
The two stars of the Big Sur coastline (which is a star in itself the whole way down) are McWay Falls and Bixby Bridge — the likes of which you’ve no doubt seen all over Instagram. I’m a fan of driving to Bixby Bridge for sunset at the very least, and love stopping to take in the coastline in Garrapata State Park‘s beaches and rocky, seascape nooks.
If you have the time, a camping trip in Big Sur amongst the trees and fresh coastal air is also very worth it!
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